Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Im debating whether I should buy a Leviathan or a 100.4 I currently have Bravox CS60CF, and will have 8" midbass in the door in the future. At first I was going to use a 100.4 for the mids/highs (Bravox CS60CF) and the 125.2 for the midbass. But then I found out about the leviathan which does 150rms and has 6 channels. I could use 4 of them for the Bravox, and the other 2 channels share them for the 2 midbass drivers (but then it would be 75rms per midbass driver). Disadvantages are single vs double amps (space) and extra power/ground runs of wire. And using only 2 channels for the Bravox wouldnt work because that would mean back to passive I cant seem to find advantages …

I picked up a new starting battery today. I replaced my old volcano type battery with a Diehard Gold AGM Group 34. I picked it up for 141.00, now down to 131.00. My research tells me that these are rebranded DEKA's, which should be good quality. It seems that Group 31's are the rule for battery banks, but I can't squeeze in three batteries. Would 3 diehard gold group 34's plus one up front be enough reserve for 5-5.5 kW? I know XS's are king, but I need to save where I can. I will also have a MECHman 220A installed as soon as I get in new battery terminals. P.S. Anyone have personal experience with diehard gold AGM's?

Hey I'm trying to build a system for my 2000 nissan pathfinder...and unfortunately it only has a 90 amp alt, and I don't want to buy a H.O. alt, so how much power can I safely run? I was planning on getting an Arc Audio 1500v1 XXK, which I didn't realize is a class A/B monoblock amp that puts out 1000 watts RMS...so i'm guessing it's not as efficient as a class D of the same power... soo i could do the big 3 upgrade...but is a 1000 watt class A/B monoblock not a good idea for a 90 amp stock alt? thanks for the help

SparkFun Electronics - DSO Nano - Pocket-Sized Digital Oscilloscope seems pretty decent, not sure if it covers the ranges needed to detect clipping from HU and also to set my gains properly...Any input? Thanks.

im looking at upgrading my system. im planing on useing 1 bl 12 and was looking at using a hifonics bxi1606d or a bxi2006d. which would be better to power the bl? and what options would i need? or is there another amp around the same price range as the hifonics that would be better to use?

I'm new here so bare with me. I have 2 power acoustic mofo 124x 12 inch 4 ohm dual voicecoils subwoofers running at 1500 watts rms each (3000 watts rms together). They are both wired parrel for 2 ohms each and wired to together at the amp for 1 ohm. I have a skar audio RP-4500.1d mono block amplifier pushing these subs. My question is do I need to upgrade my charging system to 2 high output alternators and 2 batteries along with the big 3? I did the math with the ohms law and just for my audio system alone I need 450 amps. I figured two 300 amp output alternators should be plenty. Am I right or is this overkill? If I'm wrong help me and gave me some advice on what I shoul…

I am looking at the following three headunits and would like to see what you guys recommend. If you have another option let me know about it. Time correction and sound quality are most important. The crossover abilities may come into play but my amps have that area covered. Thanks for your input. Alpine CDA 9887, Eclipse CD7100, Pioneer DEH-P880PRS. All of these do the basic features I need such as satellite radio and Ipod. I do not car anything about the area serve in the Eclipse. I am more concerned with which one would give me the best sound quality performance and have the best build quality.

So can u guys tell me which head units u think are better sound quality wise and features. I'm goin to get either a pioneer premier or kenwood excelon and idk whch one to get. My friends tell me kenwood isn't any good but I hear from experienced car audio technicians that kenwood makes better head units than premier. I was looking to get the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X693 or the Pioneer Premier DEH-P510UB. They are both around the same price and all advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Nick

so after finally getting everything tuned to where i wanted and set-up i was driving around for a little bit and then out of nowhere there is no bass... pulled over right then and checked the amp.. blue power light is on, no sign of protect mode at all. after work i got home and checked my fuses, all is fine. other speakers are normal, but when i checked speaker outputs from amp there is 0 volts. how do i fix this? hope its not that bad, was just starting to enjoy it all again! its a sundown SAZ-1500D, I've only had it a couple months, but i did get it from Db-r.com, but he does good work, no?

Now, wheres the best place (price wise) to pick up more Blue Top D34's... (9) ANL fuses (upto 500Amp)... -and- Fuseblocks and Distro blocks? -Nick

Hi everyone, I'm looking to finish the big 3 in my car. I already have a 0 ga wire from battery - to chassis. My alternator is difficult to reach. I must "lift" the car to reach it under the motor. My question is : can I take a point anywhere on the engine block and ground it to the chassis of the car (with a 0 ga wire) ? (I know !). That would be the third part of the big 3. I have a stock alternator, maybe the (+) alt to (+) battery part is not a "must do" part for me. Another question : I have one 0 ga wire with ring connectors, and one 2/0 marine grade wire with ring connectors too. Which one would you choose for the battery to ground, and for the engine block to g…

I was wondering if you buy an amp, if you can send it back to kicker without going through a dealer? Is there special things for competitors or what? What would you do about going through with this?

i plan on running 2 12" fi q or ssa icon subs in a 4cf ported enclosure tuned to 28hz. my car is running a minibattery upfront (to clear upper intercooler pipes), an optima yellowtop (extended battery, not standard), 2 1 farad caps, big 3 upgrade, and a 180amp iraggi alternator. the amp im currently using is a mtx 1501d (1500watts @ 1 ohm). here are my concerns: 1) would it be worth it to upgrade to an amp that is around 2500watts? 2) how many watts can my current electrical system handle? 3) will i be able to run an amp around 2500watts and another one for mids and highs around 200-300watts? 4) what amp would you guys recommend (looking to spend $800 or less)? so far…

I just bought a brand new sound ordnance 4 channel amp and am still waiting for a new set of speakers for my car. in the meantime I decided to test out a pair of some old alpine type r 6.5s I pulled out of my old car. they don't fit so I put them in a hasty cardboard box to put in the backseat. after installing the amp and hooking up the speakers as rears with the rcas and unplugging my rear stock speakers the alpine hooked up to the amp weren't playing at all. I remember these speakers were working perfectly before and have just been sitting in my house since. I made sure everything was wired properly, the amp turns on, protection light doesn't go on or anything and I ju…

what mini MONO amp would u recommend in the 60-100Wrms range on 4ohm (that could be pluged into 12V car socket) ... you can point out a DIY amp also

Hey everyone I was just curious to see if anyone on here run's these amps or has had experience with them? I just installed mines today and it works like a champ, its used BTW but I was wondering if these pigs usually run on the hotter side? After about maybe 30 minutes of play time after hooking it up it was kinda hot, not hot where U couldnt touch it but not really warm either. So after about an hour and a half worth of playing its still working, it hasnt gone into thermal protection mode, But I was just curious if this is normal for this amp? But then again it is 2 amps in 1 chassis. LMK if anyone has input. thanks

Hi guys i was wondering what amp you would recommend to power a single dual 2 10" SSD sub. Im only wanting to spend no more than 300 dollars on the amp. Any help would be great.

I know to add up all my amps fuses and the total is my in-line fuse size. My question is about fusing at the db block. I've read in a previous thread on here to fuse under never over( i.e. 180A = 150A). I have an amp (US Amps USA-150) that requires fusing at 75A. It has 2 inputs for positive and 2 inputs for the ground wires. Can I use a 40A + 30A = 70A fuse in my db block or will it affect anything being different sizes and under the fuse rating? Thanks and have a Happy New Year!

i just put in my sundown 1500D and it turns on, but nothing comes out of it volts or anything

What do you guys think about these kinds of head units? I was looking at getting the pioneer MVH-p8200 which features wise is pucking badass but what about performance wise? I see it only has 2v pre outs. I haven't seen another digital media reciever with anything higher.

I have a XS Power as a starting battery, 2 runs of 0gauge to my rear batt which is a Deka. I'm wanting to add another deka in the rear and wanted to know if I need to do 2 runs of wire to connect the rear batts together or will 1 run suffice. Thanks

I need an amp for my 15 Icon.It is in a (about)4ft3 ported enclosure.(wired @ 4 Ohms now, but it can change). I am thinking about a Sundown 1000 or 1500, or a Clarion DPX 11500. I did not find a lot of informations about the Clarion, and everybody here loves Sundown. I will probably upgrade to a 15" or 12" Xcon, so I should look for a 1500 watts rms amplifier. What do you guys think? I would like to play at 2 Ohms with the future sub, and at 4 ohms now : so the Clarion looks like the good choice. It seems like very few people have it here. Why? I need something that can play with high temperature, because I am in the Carribeans. I want something very RELIABLE; shippin…

I know that the Hifonics BXi 1610D is kind of like the ultimate budget amp, but I like the looks of the CRUNCH GPV2000.1 at almost a hundred dollars less. Think I will get rated wattage out of the crunch, or save a bit more and get the hifonics.

Going to use it to power an RE audio 15" SE-X subwoofer. wondering did I make a mistake with this amp? Or are people saying good things about them still? For now, the sub will be seeing 2 cubic feet sealed, as I am currently in a budget crunch and don't want to shell the cash to build a different enclosure (this is also the reason for the amp choice, was price point).

im getting 4 cvr 12s i was planing on getting the aq1200 but now my friend suggested getting 2 zx750.1s i was want to see your guys opinions on what to do aq1200 is 249 shipped and 1 750.1 is 230 shipped the only thing i dont like about the zx is the low pass says 50-200hz so will it not hit the low cause if it wont i dont want it