Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have someone interested in buying my two RF t1500bdcp amps. Ill be running two xcon 15s d1 in 4 cubes per sub. Which amp is better and why between cresendo 3500d and sundown 3500v2? And for that matter would it be wise to go from what i have to what im looking at?

I am interested in buying two 15" bl's 1 ohm subs and I am just wondering what amplifier I should put with those. A friend of mine is telling me to go with a USA-2000x amp for both. I keep reading over this forums and it seems lots of people enjoy Sundown. Any help would be appreciated.

Anyone have any experience with the precision power amps? I have a d2000/1 but have never used it, just checked to make sure it worked. Just got 2 sundown SA 12's and wondering if this would be a good amp for them. I also have a sundown 1000d but I think the SA 12's would do better with more power, just wanting some input from some of you with more experience than myself.

does any one know how i would hook this up to the fan and my amp?http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/Stinger-Adjustable-Fan-Controller-63p195.htm#details

I am looking at these there.All three are around the same price. Going to be pushing a Dcon 10 in a sealed box.Seems like they all get some decent ratings.Not sure If would really need the power of the Brutus for the Dcon though. 1.Hifonics BRZ1200.1D 2.Alpine MRP-M650 3.Alpine MRP-M500

i bought a new zed audio amp at the beginning of may. zed was giving away free refurbished amps with a new amp purchase. i got a free us acoustics amp. i bench tested the amp as soon as i received it and it played music fine. i put it back in a box and never installed it. on june 2nd it sold on ebay for $160. the guy left me good feedback on june 12th. on august 7th the guy PMs me on sounddomain and says that he finally got around to hooking the amp up and it blows his power wire fuse (the amp doesnt have onboard fuses). i respond immediately, telling him how i tested it. i asked him to measure the resistance of the inputs with a dmm, and look at the circuit board for a…

I am looking for some real world tests done on the 3 types of batteries that show current draws to voltage drops, charge rates, how they funciton and how they differ from one another in a more technical way than "one is wet and one is dry" i seem to recall reading some where that AGM could deliever greater power in a shorter time than a standard lead acid but i cant find anything confirming or deneying this on google. thanks.

recommendations needed for an amp the plan currently is to run incriminator audio comps up front and a dcon 15 dual 4 in a ported box in the back now Id prefer to only have to run one amp and to slightly over power the dcon so what 4 channel amps do you think would be worth it to bridge the rear channels or are there any great 3 channels or even 5 channels since I could hook the rear channel on a 5 channel to my drop down tailgate speakers Thanks guys

In testing for competition, MECA enforces fuse sizes for specific divisions in your class. In testing, if you are trying to pull 2-3x the fuse rating of your inline fuses.. and they keep popping, can that damage the amp? I haven't started yet but i was thinking the amps would be susceptible to low voltage conditions at high volume when the fuses pop and could eventually cause damage, maybe immediately. Is this true?

I am looking at the following three headunits and would like to see what you guys recommend. If you have another option let me know about it. Time correction and sound quality are most important. The crossover abilities may come into play but my amps have that area covered. Thanks for your input. Alpine CDA 9887, Eclipse CD7100, Pioneer DEH-P880PRS. All of these do the basic features I need such as satellite radio and Ipod. I do not car anything about the area serve in the Eclipse. I am more concerned with which one would give me the best sound quality performance and have the best build quality.

Im about to buy a 10" icon and a sae-1000D but i was wondering on how i should buy the power wires. I was thinking of buying a wiring kit but they just seem really expensive and im not sure which to get. Or should i just get buy the wire and the connectors and fuses etc. Where could i find good wiring kits and a place to buy wire and connects and fuses online? I know about weldingsupply.com. Anyone ever used this site?

I need to get a cheap crossover fast so I can take out my damn 3sixty.2 which is having bluetooth issues and send it in AGAIN...anyway. How bad are the crossovers on this page: Parts Express Any other suggestions on something I can get cheap. Something with high level inputs would be ideal, but I can run a LOC too. Best case would be 2 way active plus sub, but I really could get by with out the sub and without the bandpass on the mid channel because I could use the amp crossover for that (my mains are on a pair of Sundown 100.2's).

Well, I was planning on running two 15 or 18 Fi audio Q/Bl/Btl. On on a orion 2500D. but found a RF T30001 BD for like $750, seems like a good upgrade for not much more...right? opinions..?

In my next build i want to do something other than a ordinary heaunit. I was thinking about something along the line of a android headunit,tablet, or even a carputer. What would it take for something like this to work?

I know I need a fuse block going from my first battery (battery under hood) to my second battery but would I need another fuse block going from my second battery to my amp

Hi guys I've been looking around at some mids and highs. I'm thinking about trying to run 2 6.5s an 2 tweeters in each front door of a 03 ford explorer and maybe some coaxials in the rears. My question is what kind of amp should I run a 2 channel or a 4 channel? It's seems the 2 channels are usually quite a bit cheaper. What are advantages of running a 4 channel?

I surveyed all the quality amps thats in my $, to run my focal 165v1 and havent decide for the subs maybe a single RF 12" P1 or 12" Kicker comp both in 1.25cu.in sealed box atomic 50.4 2001 lightning bolt 300.4 zenon 80.4 formula x 1600 4ch amp forgot the specs or should i get focal solution 25 A1 will it give better sound quality?? currentlu using a very old amp infedility 800.4 pure class A, if i change to any of these amplifiers will it dramatically improve my SQ? Make it louder and cleaner

hello all, i have some questions regarding alt power. I currently have a 270a mechman, now my first question is do they have to be the same amprage, or can the other one be bigger or smaller? Second is do they have to be the same brand? Like can i use my stock 136a alt or a dc alt with mine or singer alt ? Would all that extra power mess with trucks electrical (05 dodge ram 4.7 ltr v8). If so, how would i be able to add another alt Have some voltage drop from 14.1 (when first starting truck) down to 12.1 at full tilt, running 2 crescendo bc3500s to 2 btls dual 2 ohms wired to 2 ohms and 1100.4, 3 runs of cca 0 ga positive and 3 negative to 5 interstate workoholic batter…

I just wanted to post this to see what some people are using. I didn't want to do a poll or anything because this could vary. I'm currently using some Streetwire Z2 series in the truck. They seem to do the job. I'm thinking I may replace them with something else in the future. So tell me what you've got. Thanks

What does anyone and everyone think of this headunit.I dont mean looks or price i mean sound and quality?

I have a 86 150 with a 5.0 in it. It came stock with a 60 amp alternator. My neighbor gave me box full of stuff he took off of a 94 mustang 5.0 H.O. One of the parts happend to be a stock 130 amp alternator. Since i need to get a bigger alternator anyways and strapped for cash i figured i can use this alternator. Its a direct bolt in, but the plugs are different though. My stock one has 2 plugs instead of the one plug. But one of the plugs on my wiring harness is the same style plug on the new(er) one. So wat i did is that i plugged(sp) in the plug that looked the same and hooked up a 4 guage power wire directly to my battery. Installed it and cranked it over, i…

I haven't done much electrical wise in my new suv and came across so unexpected money. I was wondering should I take the money and by two maybe 3 batteries or buy a quality h/o alt. I'm still running the sundown 2500d. If I buy batteries I plan on running an xs d925 under the hood and an xs d3400 in the back. Thanks guys

Although I'm not worried about buying an amp with enough power (bc I buy quality gear) I'm still unsure how efficient an amp really is. My really old PPI PC 2150 A/B class says in the manual something like 70% efficient which is better than many class d amps now (I read something about the JL 500/1 being about 50% effiencent.) Anyone really know how efficient their amp is or how I can find out without buying one? PS I have a 06 Toyota Highbrid and I'm thinking that the normal 12v system is going to get taxed pretty hard with a moderate system in there. My system will be pair of 6.5's up front (likely XR's or Mpyre's) powered by my PPI PC2150 Single SS RLP 12 in a port…

installing my new system and my buddy says no dont run fuses.this is what im running 4 runs of 0 gauge wire from the front battery 2 power 2 ground,in the back i have 2 kinetik 3800s and a 300 amp altenator but the alt wire is fused.there is currently no fuses on the power wires for the truck but have not finished yet so just wondering what everyones opion is.im thinking 2 under the hood one on each power 2 before the batterys in the back and 2 after the batterys in the back.thanks

how much is it underrated bridged, and is this 2 ohm stable bridged?