Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

what woulrd be the pink wire from the radio..... is it to bypass the brake or what i dont have a clue............. never had this problem before legacy ld53um 3.5 touch screen lcd

I just went and bought a Digital Multimeter because I will be getting a stinger voltmeter soon.. plus I just needed one, and well.. I have no idea how to use it!!! I tried my best and got a spark and some awfully hot wire thingys... ouch. First off there are 2 different red plugs and 1 black plug slots at the bottom of the dmm.. I wasn't sure how to know which red one to plug into, and obv. the black went into the only black slot. After that i went over to DCv and scrolled the wheel over to 20.. I assumed you go higher than the voltage you are going to read.. which for cars is around 12v.. Then I stuck my red probe onto my + on my amp and black onto my - on amp.. and.. s…

Would i need a new battery and alternator to run 1500 watts...i have a rockfor fosgate 250.2 and have it bridged to 2 ohms i'm aware that i'm not suppose to do that but not too concerned about the amp i just need something to push the 10's behind my seat...but i am wanting to run a 1000 watt 1 channel amp to power a 15" Fi Q...please help

need some help with gf system she has two 15" RE SX with a p.o.s. amp from sound storm that she picked out for the price, she has a 1800 kinetik batt in the back its loud now but it could b alot lounder so what amp would you suggest

i have 4 cvrs in two boxes they are wired in the box and are ready to be hook up just need help hooking all four to mono amp.

I had blown one of my subs a few months ago so I unhooked everything and removed from vehicle. After doing some upgrades and getting new subs in, I finally reinstalled them yesterday. The problem I've ran into is that the amps aren't producing any sound. They power up and show that there on, but no sound. What voltage should the remote wire show? This is the only thing I can think of to check. I will say though that when I had a sub blow it blew the fuse between batteries and the amps where underpowered for awhile. Could this have caused internal problems? All help needed fast!!!

today iinstalled 2 15" idq's in individual sealed compartment..maybe 1.75ft^3 a piece, being pushed off a memphis pr series amp(the big 2 channel one) and here's the deal...after a few bass hits..it quits playin....one sub sucks in and the other pushes out. u turn the h/u for a few seconds, it'll start playing again and then uit again. here is what i checked.. 1) the amp never goes into protect mode and doesn't shut off when the subs quit playin...also the amp was benched about a month ago because of the same problem..different car...tested ok 2) all connections are tight..had to fix a few on the box terminals 3) changed from mono bridged to stereo to play with the impede…

I'm going to buy my gf some components because the speakers in her car sound really crappy and bugs the hell out of me. I need some suggestions on some good sounding 4 channel amplifiers that can be purchased for less than 300. Can either be a authorized dealer or ebay. Any help would be appreciated.

hello, first post. i am hopefully getting a Fi BTL soon . anyways, i am either gettin one 12" or one 15" probly a 15". they are 2000RMS. i can get either dual 2 or 1 ohm voic coils.(ohms is the main thing i dont get in car audio) now, which should i go with? dual 1 or 2 ohm? 2 ohm is more reliable right? also, if i wer to go with dual 2 ohm...when looking for a amp, i would be looking for a amp with 2000 rms at 2ohm right? or would it be 4ohm at that point? (2ohm + 2ohm?) and for the dual 1ohm i would be looking for 2000rms at 2ohm? AHH... so confused. plz help me with this. any opinions on amps is GREAT! i dont want to spend 1500$ on a amp. i need kinda a budget amp…

ok im runnin low on resources to complete my install..so i was thinking of ways to save some money... Im going to be runnin 2 amps...a BX1000D and an older PG QX4150 fuses are 60 and 40 the Brutus takes 4 gauge while the PG takes 8 Now heres my question...i was gonna run 1/0 from the batt to the distroblock then split it into 4gauge and 8 gauge Now instead im thinking of runnin 4gauge from the batt then split it at the distro block into another 4 and 8 gauge Anyone against doin that?

need like 2500w rms for the mt like 240ish (i guess?) @ 3 ohms for the pro60s. im most likely not gonna do rear fill, if i do, itll be off the HU. what you guys think? im tryin to get the amps ordered, so then i can start the box/amprack.

Hey guys, Ive searched and searched for threads and information regarding how to strap your amps and how to wire the sub appropriate but nothing is very clear and I dont want a mistake on my hands... so heres what I have going on, I am strapping two APSM-1500s with a dual 2 ohm sub. how do i need do i need to run speaker wire between the amps? and should I wire my subwoofer down to 4 ohm if Im trying to get a 2 ohm load from the amps? I appreciate the help

I have 2 BTL 12's fully loaded on a 4ooohd Ma audio amp, im currently running 2 dry cell batteries... yellow top optima and blue top optima..... Is there any way to get more power out of this system?? I have a friend who works at auto advance and he said i could get to blue top's and get a tray so i could hook both of them up to run 24 volts.....

Ok, so after doing the voltage setting of the gain, I figured I need around 50 volts for the saz2500d running at 1 ohm. Currently at 40 till I get the inside done with bracing. Problem is, when I turn volume up to 29-30, after 10-15 seconds the circuit breaker up front for the positive run of 0 gauge trips. Then the amp goes into protect mode. Am I drawing that much current that I need to run another run of 0 gauge? Have a 31m diehard platinum in the rear, all 0 gauge, and a 270 mechman. Big 3 in 0 gauge and all frame grounds. Amp ground is only 16" or so to frame.

Ok so I mounted my amp on my enclosure. Well after blasting my system for a couple months it failed. One day my sub started sounding slappy. So I took my sub out, looked okay. Put it back in its place. Well I checked everything wiring etc. I then moved my amp around and heard a rattle. This is what I found, broken off capacitor, thats what DBR told me it was. And then I found 2 burned resistors behind the RCA input/outputs. Anyone that can help me get this back to playing please hit me up. I sent these same pics to DBR and they told me they couldnt fix it, and there was another shop I could ask about it. The board is not burned, it just looks black because of the burned r…

Ok so my friend needed an amp so i sold him my mrp-m850. And now im ampless but now i have an excuse for a lil upgrade. As u know the SSD12 is 800 rms. I'll have it in a sealed enclosure (1 SSD12) and im looking for a good bang for the buck amp around 200-250 max. I loved my alpine had no problems with it so i was looking at a alpine mrp-m1000 and their in my price range. Ohh and i only need it to run 2 ohms. U guys like that or noo. Suggestions please. Thanks, Vince

I have a dual 1 ohm BL (.75dcr) with no options and need a amp for it. I will do the big 3 and have the stock 130a alternator and battery so it needs to be fairly efficienct. I may add a battery or two in the future but not immediately. Right now im looking at a sundown 1500 (run at .375 ohms), gp3000d (rated 1500@2), crossfire vr2000d (.5 ohm stable, 2000 watts), and zx1500.1 If i did the crossfire i could add another battery right away because of the price. I like the sundown just because its sexy and can tolerate low voltage, i like the gp3000d because it can do 3000@1 if i ever decide to upgrade (though i havent found out how efficient it is), the crossfire is just ch…

I just sold my kenwood mp5035 and am looking for a new one. i really want one with a tilting motorized faceplate. and that could hook up to my ipod and is HD. i have been looking at the http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...amp;I=099CD3100 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...amp;I=099CD4000 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...mp;I=113KDCX891 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...amp;I=099CD7000 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...amp;I=099CD5100 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...mp;I=113KDCX991 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A:IT&ih=002 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A:IT&ih=002 http:/…

I need a new pair of rca cables. Right now i have a really cheap pair of cables on it and they finally broke can anyone tell me some good brands or something? i was looking at a pair of monster cables but im not really sure what to look for in rca cables. Thanks

im looking to buy 2 new batteries for the back of my truck. ill be runnin a 225 amp alt with the IA40.1 and a 4 channel alpine 4x90w.. im leanin toward the powermaster d2400's.. the 2 other batteries on my list would be the Xstatic Batcap model 2000 or the Deka Intimidator Battery - 9A31 opinions please..?

I want to upgrade my head-unit I currently have Jensen vm9312 (got a good deal on it from friend) but I want something better I want a head-unit that puts out good sound quality and offers adjustments. Don't want to spend a fortune but if it's necessary to spend a couple hundred I can save up I was thinking about the pioneer p8000bt any opinions or suggestions on a good headunit?

I'm looking at a Sherwood A100X4 for $80. Are they any good? I can't find much info about any of their newer stuff.

I'm considering buying a used Avionixx AXA440.4 for around $100. Any opinions? They're rated at 85x4 W RMS @ 4 ohm but are supposed to put out around 100W. Any info would be great.

I am looking to get some very good rca'a I was thinking of getting some that I could ground. I am looking into getting 20 pairs! does anyone know what I can get without spending a $1,000.00 Teal

Ok so I have 2 fi ssd 12"s and a sundown saz-1500d, my problem is if I turn it up past 32 on my head unit, my amp goes into protection and it sounds like one of the subs "pops" any help would be awosme