Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

ok my girls dad bought her a cheap lil boss HU, and whenever she hits a bump it skips, lol, so i was thinking maybe put some sponge or something in thier and it would fix the problem any other ideas?

What is the best entry level amp in the market today?... Obviously they will not match those high-end amp so lets not compare them... just want to know for consumer preference...

i was on crutchfield.com and was lookin at a head unit. found one i liked, clicked on it, and at the bottom there was this message. Installation Details for your 2003 Taurus SE

O.k. I will be hooking up my amp (soundstream 2000w monoblock) to my factory h/u via a PAC audio plug-n-play (c2a-chy) harness. The rca voltage isn't fixed and will be adjusted as the radio vol. is increased up to 5 volts. My question is, in order to set the gains on my amp, do I just set by ear with a test tone or get a line driver and have that fixed voltage to set my gain with a dmm. My amp has a range of 300mV-5V max. Thanks guys !

ok so my alternator went out which in turn screwed up my battery. i got a good used alternator for $20 and its actually better then my last 2 and i dont want to kill it before i can afford batts. but my question is can anyone recommend places i might try for a cheap used battery? i just need something to get me by for a few weeks till i can get a big battery. i've been to pull a part 3 times this week and they havent had any. any help would be awesome thanx

alright, i currently have the Pioneer AVH-4300DVD and i really like it and was thinking about getting the AVH-P4400BH for my H2, but have also been looking into the Kenwood DDX-719 and was wondering if anybody has had the opportunity to play with both and what your opinions were about the Kenwood? i haven't gotten to play with the Kenwood at all, but it looks good on paper.

Checked under the hood today and saw this... So pissed. Looks like I won't have my truck for a day or two. Getting it towed to the dealership tomorrow. Hopefully they don't try to screw me, as they installed it in the first place...Wondering what's preventing it from happening again too... :suicide-santa: :suicide-santa:

Hey guys I would be wiring up my 4 channel amp, and have a few questions. (1) I have read that the power wire should go one side of the car and speaker wire (rca) should go on the other side. Should the remote wire go on the side of the power wire or on the side with the speaker wire? (2) I am using 2 ch bridged for my sub, and the other 2 ch ( built in crossover on amp), for a pair of mids and tweeter. what frequency should I set it to? (3) The HU has 3 pairs of 4 volt rca pre output, should I use these or the the wires from the hu haness to feed the amp or a combination of both? , I have rear speakers which can also be included, what would be the best setup? Thanks.

when you set your gain with a dmm it says take the amps rms and multiply it by the impedance of the sub. so say you have a 2 ohm dvc sub and you wire it down to a 1 ohm load. do you take 1 ohm or 2 ohms and multiply it by your amps rms then sqrt it?

I was wondering... Are there any amps in production that have: Class A: Left & Right channels Class D: Power stage for a subwoofer. All in one package / Amp case? If there isn`t. Is there any reason why this couldn`t be done or hasn`t been done yet?

I'm looking into maybe getting an active crossover. I've found Audiocontrol and that seems to be a bit of a fan favorite on here. I was just wondering if anyone else reputable makes them? I can find tons of boss, pyramid, etc but no names that i recognize. (this will be for mids/tweets, sub isn't necessary)

So I just got my 2nd batt and I was thinkin on how to wire it but I'm not sure if I'm right [frnt batt]+----fuse----------------+[rear batt] |----fuse--------------amp correct me if I'm wrong I'm sure I am

im looking for mono, 1, 2, chanel amp that @ 4ohm is rated at 600x1 or 300x2 but i need TRU RMS @1,0.5,0.25 ohm to be 1200+ kinda like the saz1500d thanks God bless Samuel

i have a brz1700.1 powering a 15" Fi BL fully loaded, and ill be adding a 4ch. soon for my 6 1/2 and 6x9's..my stock alt is 105amps and i have a stock battery.. will i need to get a new alt and battery???.. or do yall think ill be just fine with what i have already??? the system isnt installed yet still waiting on a few things to in...?

i have a popping sound though my sub when i turn off my radio or when i change a track, turn it on mute it will do it when i step on the gas , i first had 2 w6( old school 12s) and a directed 600d amp it never did it when i had that set up, but when i put this one in it started doing it after i played it cupble of times, so what could be the reason.

So I've been looking at a bunch of nav head units, and these two seem like the best out there. I haven't had a chance to use either as I can't find any local shops that have either in stock. What is the general consensus on these two? Is there a clear cut winner? I've heard that the pioneer's have a high failure rate, and they often times freeze up, is that true? They have a gorgeous UI, but if it doesn't work I guess it's not that great. My other concerns with the pioneer are the low RMS power output, no name GPS, and only a single USB input. Would I need an amp with the pioneer or is 14 watts RMS enough for components and mid basses (no subs yet)? Is the GPS comparable …

Today is not a good day. i got my remote gain yesterday i installed it today.. also The plan was to finally have my subs back. i got my DC's back from rusty. and was happy to slap once again... i opened the box and one was broken:( i called rusty and he is so nice... but that's another story. i was hooking up one of the dcs to see if it works and i heard a hum it then everything turn off.. not the car but my amps and the music.... so i check the fuse in the front and its blown. i replace it and then my rf250.2 turns on. but not the merlin?? i took out the merlin and seen the fuses are blown.. so i replace them.... and then when i hooked it up again.. i heard the hum again…

well i got my SAZ 1500d in the mail a few days ago... and now i have my 1/0 gauge Tsunami amp kit to replace the 4 gauge from my old sub amp... so now i am getting ready to install it all, i was just wondering if anyone had any good sugestions on where to set the subsonic and the LPF knobs ? and i a guessing to leave the phase off.. this amp is to run my 15" Xcon.. it is in a 4 cubic feet box ported to 32 hz.... i figured there would be someone here who could get me close..

I was fooling around with my amp today, turning up the gain gradually, and I was getting excited, sub was pounding a lot harder, and it didnt sound like it was getting any muddier or sound like it was clipping. But then i noticed that once i disconnected the sub and played a tone, the amplifier itself was making a buzzing noise. So i turned back the gain and it went away. I was wondering if this was some kind of built in clipping detector or something along those lines? Have you guys ever encountered something like this? Any info would be great, thanks guys.

Hey guys, I already have a 200amp alternator, Exide Orbital Extreme 34XCD battery, big 3 upgrade, and 2-gauge running about 14-15 feet to the hatch, protected by a 200-amp ANL fuse by the battery, with a 3-farad capacitor in the hatch... My old setup that I am upgrading required about 40-50 amps for items other than the stereo (nitrous system, massive fuel pump, etc) as well as about 90 for the old stereo setup, thus about 130-140 amps at most, so the 2-gauge wiring was just fine with the 3-farad cap thrown in for good measure... Now, I am upgrading the amps and speakers in my setup and am looking at about 1500-1700watts RMS, thus about 160-170 amps for the stereo alone, …

I have a Arc Audio SE-2150se, and I have it in mono mode, running at 2 ohms to my fully loaded, D1 18'' fi btl. Everything works fine, but I wanted to turn it up this past weekend to show of to my friends, so when I turn up the amp, from 1/4, to 3/4, it sounded much louder. But when I turn it up, the protect mode light will flicker red, just for when the bass drop, now I know this can't be good. It goes back green, but when ever the bass drops, a big one, it will just flicker red for that one second. Can any body tell me why this is, and is it safe to play it that loud? Not daily, I'm not stupid, but whenever I want to show off for a song or two, can I or should I play it…

Does anybody have any experience with the above HU, just want to know if it is any good in general. Mainly going to be using my ipod.

I'm getting 2 12" kicker L7s wired to 1 ohm. I have an amp just sitting around and its a planet audio ac2500.1m. I'm thinking I will run the subs at 4 ohm. Any suggestions? I really don't have money to get a 1 ohm amp at this time. thanks guys

For the sake of knowing, can I run four mids and two tweets off of a four channel amp, or is that just a retarded question to ask? Flaming appreciated. If you had a four channel and could not do that, would you replace the four door speakers, or would you replace the front door speakers and add some tweeters to your dash?

As the title say's i am going to pick up a alpine head unit.I took apart the dash in the car as i have never installed a radio before i was lookin to see what i was gettting into.Looks like it is going to be pretty easy exept for the end result.The molding i have now is for the stock radio with knobs , i would like to keep it.Any ideas on how i can mod the current set up to work with the new set up or buy some kind of aftermarket piece that looks the same?Pictures below. 1. 3.