Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I'm like everyone else, just trying to get the best deal, and I can't decide on 2 amps right now. The sundown is more expensive, but I use to own a soundstream a while back and never had any issues with it. What would you guys choose, i will pay more for better quality, but maybe they are both very close. Thanks all. Sundown Audio SAX-1200D 375 or Soundstream PCX-1500D 239 + free shipping

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...mMakeTrack=true second time it's been listed for $200. First time they tried to sell it, it had a $5000 Buy It Now It obviously didnt sell the first time. So I emailed the seller asking for a lower price. They promptly told me to get lost and if I was really interested I would have bid. So is it worth $200 (plus $15 s&h)? Whose that guy on here that has a few? How do you like them?

so im looking into the Pioneer Premier DEH-P880PRS and wondering if i have to buy the ipod adapter http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/p...7492523,00.html b/c im not sure if have to have the adapter for that headunit. thanks

does any one know were i could get a good 2000 watt amp i got $700 to spend i need it for my 2 rlp 12" i wanna try to get 1000 watts to each speaker what will i need to do this

So for about the past week or two, my speakers keep cutting out. I've tried to find a pattern in their behavior but it APPEARS random. Sometimes they will play for a few songs and then cut in and out in 10 second increments, sometimes they will cut out for 5-10 minutes straight. I thought they might just be over heating (it has been really hot here in Md and the amps are mounted behind the seat) but the amp's thermal warning has not been going off. What's also strange is the sub continues to hit flawlessly. I've walked around with a volt meter and do not see any issues from battery to amp. Possibly related, my check engine light comes on and off and one of my ebay HID fo…

I recently got a nice deal on two used mm1400.1d's. Now i'm considering running them together on one BTL 12. Does it matter if one has a little more wear and tear than the other? Will it be okay as long as i check that i have the amps sending the same output wattage with a multimeter? Is it a bad idea all together?

Last time i knew the majority of JL Audio amps were made in China with the slash series being made in Korea has this changed? The reason is on another forum there are people that are convinced they are made in miramar florida.

Hey all. I have a 12" Fi BL wired like this: My question is that I bought 8AWG to wire the thing, problem is, the terminals only accept about 12AWG. So I trimmed about 1/2 or more the wires at the stripped ends, making it 16AWG, and I used 12AWG to wire the + --> + and - --> - and cut the ends the same way.. Should I be concerned, or what would have been a better option? Those damn holes are so small. =[ PS: twisted speaker wire is a PITA to strip.

Looking for some help with what to put my settings at, I understand most of them, but not all of them. Was hoping you could give your educated opinions on what to set my equipment to. The equipment I am working with is a JL 250/1 (powering two American Bass 12's), an American Pro VS1407 (powering two pairs of Planet Audio 6.5's) and a Blitz 2-way crossover (has a remote bass knob with sub gain and frequency sweep). These are all the settings available to mess with. JL 250/1 Full/Low/High LP Filter Mode/Slope - Off/12dB/24dB - 40Hz - 200Hz Bass Control Infrasonic Filter - Off/30Hz - 0dB - +15dB Amp Input Input Voltage - Low/High Signal Sensing …

whats the optimal fuse size for a run of 0 guage to run a bc3500?

Trying to figure out what size alternator I'm going to need and how many batteries I'll need. I'm figuring at least a 250 amp alt and 2 D3100 powermasters, plus a yellow top under the hood. Will be running a Clif Designs 4800.1lx and probably a Sundown 100.2 or 125.2. Is there a way to calculate what I'll need or is this all a guessing game?

What should I set my amp to get the best quality I have Hifonics Brutus BXi1208D I also have 2 RE SE12 Dual4

I just got it in the mail today and I want to intall in my 07 Suburban. Anyone here who has this install on they're tahoe/suburban, where did you mout these unit at? Did you mout it on the firewall, or did you mout it near the fuse box? Is there an easy accessory wire available under the hood that I could use to turn the isolator on/off? Also is there anything else I have to do special with this isolator since this is a newer truck? From the directions it looks like I'll go from the alterntor to the one of the isolator's hot lead. Then from the 2nd isolator hot lead to a fuse/relay switch, which will then go to the second battery. Does that sound about right? Then there a…

OK. I know this is a HORRIBLE post and probably an open ended question... I am wondering what can be added to my setup to make it better "overall"? I am seeing a bunch of stuff about things which i have never heard of and am currently researching a few different things to see if something might be missing. My main thing is the speakers or rather all the settings on the amp for the speakers. Last time i was getting ready to install my system i just turned the volume ot the max I would ever play it and then started screwing with the amp until it sounded good. IIRC i had it switched to HPF and then just started tweeking the freq. and such until it stopped sounding like …

Hey guys, Ive searched and searched for threads and information regarding how to strap your amps and how to wire the sub appropriate but nothing is very clear and I dont want a mistake on my hands... so heres what I have going on, I am strapping two APSM-1500s with a dual 2 ohm sub. how do i need do i need to run speaker wire between the amps? and should I wire my subwoofer down to 4 ohm if Im trying to get a 2 ohm load from the amps? I appreciate the help

I'll be running a bi-amp setup in the near future. As of right now the amps will be: Memphis MC3004 (75x4 @ 4 ohms) Memphis ST or MC 1000D (600x1 @ 2 ohms) Part 1: I have never done a bi-amp setup and was curious about the power wire. If I run this through a fused distrubution block, do I need an in-line fuse between the positive battery terminal and distribution block, or will the individual fuses in the block suffice? Part 2: I figured up the current draw on both amps based on the sticky in this section. It looks like: MC3004 will be drawing 32.5A 1000D will be drawing 44A I am currently thinking that I will run a 0/1AWG wire from the battery to the distro block, th…

Ok so i'm on my first active setup. I have a set of kicker RS6.5 comps. on a sundown SAX-100.4. When we hooked everthing up and tested it for the first time the tweets were working and the mids weren't. So i started unplugging RCAs, if i move around one set of RCAs then i get mids and highs out of only one side. I can even manage to get both tweets but not the passenger midbass to work. So first i thought maybe either RCAs or Bad input. Well turned out the midbass was grounding out. FIXED. Ok now i can't get bother left and right to work unless i run another set of RCAs from the output side to the input side. see pic..... So now i figure that i have a bad set …

Does anyone know if there is a place to get a dual Alt bracket for a 2004 f150 5.4L. I tried iraggi and he doesn't make them

I currently have a rockford 1500.1 amplifier, 2 12" fi q's a power acoustik 5 farad capacitor and a stinger sp 680 car audio battery. I have been having problems with the amplifier and am not sure what it is thats wrong or what I can try next or if the amp is possibly deffective. the amp is currently turned up a little less than half way and when I put the base all the way up on the head unit and turn the volume up about 3/4 the way up the amp will shut off. The red light does not come on to put the amp into protection or anything just the amp turns off than back on a few seconds later. I have upgraded the big 3 with 4 gauge wire and ran 0 gauge wire from the battery back…

anyone knows the power rating at 4 ohm? @ 12 Volts preferably i already bought my DC level 4 and now i have to change my amp, i currently have a hifonics brutus 2000 i am selling it, to replace it with a hifonics 2008 model, but i saw this amp at a really good price, but im afraid the 2700 rms will burn it. the sub is a dual 2. any suggestions?

ok well i have an alpine cda 9886 and the ipod setting isnt on the HU. to even get it to play i have to put the setting on aux+ and plug the ipod in a certain way and most of the time it wont work. when it does i can change the songs on the ipod when theyre suppose to be changed on the HU. ive tried it with four different ipods and its all the same. has anyone else had this problem?

At one point in time there was a link to a calculator someone had made to just plug in your rms and impedance and get what the voltage ac you should see when setting the gain on your amp. anybody know where that is i wanna bookmark it to my computer. and yes i have already read the sticky on how to set gain. im just trying to get this as a bookmark. thanks

I read quite a few questions regarding electrical supply and demand so I decided to post this link to help figure out any electrical dilemma you may be having. http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp

I have a Autotek MM1400.1D and Autotek MM75.4 in my truck. I leave my truck parked for a few days at a time at school. The 1400 goes into protect mode when I turn my truck on after its been sitting for a few days (I leave the radio on all the time), but when I turn my radio off then on again everything is okay. I can turn the truck off and on after the amplifier is off of protect, and it turns on like normal. What could be the cause of this?

Can get a great deal on one and was trying to get some Specifications. http://www.carsound.com/reviews/amps/zr360.html http://www.crutchfield.com/S-nvAPS3E4lWG/c...;i=206ZR360#Tab http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manu...s/ZRAmpsMan.pdf I know that this is a cheater amp but dose any one have any experience with this amp or any one who has ?