Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Im installing 4 super tweets(8-ohm each), 10 cadence mid-high 6.5 (8-ohm each), 4 kicker 8" comps for mid-bass (8-ohm each), and a cadence 5 channel amp. (tweets wont be amp'd) I have no crossover or processors yet. My question to you guys is, how would I make this work? And what do you guys suggest I buy as far as crossovers and processing?

ok so im running two CVX 12" @ 2ohm currently running them on a Kicker ZX 750.1 amp I know i am underpowering these subs. I am hopeing to get a 1,600 or a 2,000 watt hifonics amp Now my Question is are the hifonics amp's really good ? i hear good things about them and will a 1600 watt push the two VCX's really well or would it be best to have the 2,000 watt amp. Would i regret getting the 1600. i like my current kicker amp But it pretty simple amp and most def not strong enough

will a Planet Audio Ac4000.1d amp have enough power to power up An Fi Audio SSD 12 Subwoofer

What do you guys think the best amp would be for my SSD 15 - Copper Coil - DVC 2 Ohm I was looking at the hifonics brutus 1209d - (1200 rms @ 1 ohm ) - $174 shipped The owner of an audio shop down the road from me said that he had a planet audio amp for $200 that puts out 900 rms @ 1 ohm. Thats my two options right now that i'm looking at. I don't really need anything above 1k RMS because its not really needed for my SSD Right?? I don't really want to spend much over 200, but if you guys think that those two options above aren't good at all i'll reconsider. I just wanted to run it buy some of you guys for advice before I drop this money on an amp. ALL information is…

I was looking at a aq2200d. I have a 2009 Tahoe with a 4.8L?. So I was thinking if I had a upgraded battery in the front and a bank of kinetic 1800s or similar from XS power(which one would be better) also open to other suggestions? Would that be enough to run a aq2200d at .5 daily? It will only be played at full tilt for demos. Also I will probably put a battery charger on the bank at night.

Today i got my AQ2200 (used) and hooked it up to my dvc 4ohm(wired to 1ohm) type r's just to see how it works, it was dark out so i couldnt/didnt really have time to tune the amp correctly.. but i did do it by ear real quick., and i have to say.... i was REALLY dissapointed My PDX1000 performed/powered better.. i set the gains on that by ear, but acually sat there for about an hour listening to it and turning lil by lil. (not like i did with the AQ) My question is should i be afriad its defective? oh.. and do i HAVE to use the bass knob? - i dont like having one. Thank you dom.

i upgraded my alternator to an iraggi 260 amp .... i had an excessive amperage 300 amp in there but it was not charging correctly ... it was only charging at 13.9 and would get voltage drops into the low 10s ... i sent it back because i thought the alternator was bad ... i sent my stock one to dom to build me one to work for my car ... i just put it in and am getting similar readings ... this time i am getting around 13.8 (best) and drops to the low 10s .... i understand my t40001 draws 400+ amps of current but i dont think the voltage drop should be that bad (drops like that within 3-4 seconds) ... i am pretty sure the battery is good ... i only have the front battery in…

Okay fellas. I need some help with this one cause i'm finally at the point i have no clue what to do. I have an 03 Ford Taurus. Im running two RE SX 12D2's on two Lunar L1500's and Rockford Fosgate Power 4004. (If you wanna see my amps heres the link: http://www.lunaramplifiers.com/product_3_2.html) Ive heard all about the big 3 upgrade and i wanted to do it. But, the damn power wire runs through the front fuse box as well as the alternator wire. Making it virtually impossible to do it unless someone can help me with that. Seeing as how i was faced with that dilema, my problem arises. I've read and researched bats and caps and my original setup had a 800 Kinetik in the …

I just noticed that Treo is selling amps these days, looks they picked them up damn near a year ago too. Has anyone used or seen these at all, it looks like a nice amp and I'm sure it peforms equally as well. Does anyone know if they're using someone elses boards in them? I bet they only cost 2 arms and half a leg.

Im buying 4 10" Pioneer Premiers Dual 2-ohms. They are rated at 350 RMS and 1000 Max each. Here is the link ==> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8631_Pioneer+Premier+TS-W1007D2.html?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=froogle I want an amp that will give each sub around 200-250 watts a piece. No more than 250. And i would like the keep the price below $300 if possible but if you know something that would be worth it and is close to 300 go ahead and post. Also it has to be a Class D amp. Im going to order this all this week so i need to make my decision on my amp. Thanks guys.

I am going to be getting some hertz 165xl components and am considering running them active with a nice sound processor. The problem is I don't know much about sound processors or running speakers active. what should I look for when buying a processor? is it worth it or should I just use the crossover that comes with the speakers?

hey everyone! i just finished building my first box today for my ssa icon and couldnt be happier. i bought the sub and amp used and i believe that the settings on the amp are off a bit. the sub hits the lows great (i tuned the box fairly low) but when it comes to even remotely high notes that should rattle my teeth out there is almost nothing there! and example is white girl but usda...it hits that low note like a champ but when it comes to the high one the door speakers are louder than the sub. i did some research and am thinking it has something to do with the low pass frequency and high pass frequency? also i have the gain turned all the way up...that was the only …

So my knew 220 anp alternator came in I cant fully test it cause Auto Zones tester only goes up to 100 amps but it's working fine as far as I can tell. Here's my problem my 2002 Taurus Idle stop is set around 900 RPM (no dimming out of gear) holding at the 100 mark on Auto Zones meter but when I put my car in gear the RPM drop tp 550 to 600 only giving me an output of 68 amps so if I'm at a stop light I get slight dimming. I did a eye test and left my interior lights on and the get super bright when I get to about 1400 to 1600 (not exactly sure cause the guage isn't that defined) with absolutly no dimming. Has any one else had this gear engaged problem and can it be solv…

So ive had this issue for awhile now. my headunit is Alpine CDE-164BT id say around 4 months ago, i first noticed this issue my headunit would randomly shut off for one second, then power back on. when it would turn on, its as if i just turned my car on, it displays the alpine logo and then starts to work again. the good thing is, its always turned back on right away. but the weird thing is, its extremely random? like when it has this issue, it will normally turn off around 4 or 5 times within 10 minutes. but, these random instances only happen maybe once every 2 or 3 weeks. from what ive been told and heard, it seems i would need to check several thin…

I can get both amps BNIB for ~900.00 shipped. of the two which would you pick? I know you would automatically think the BC5500 because of the 1000 rms difference, but based on clamp results, I've seen Sundown amps do very close to this at 1ohm. FWIW my mids and highs amps are Sundown and it would be nice to match BUT it's not the end all be all of my decision as they won't be seen. this is not a VS thread, I know they are both stout amps, this is more of a poll to tip the scales as I'm pretty much even in my decision and it would be nice to get some fresh perspectives and maybe others will know something that I don't about each amp.

So i am in the process of a full rebuild and part of the rebuild consist of new batteries. I have all xs power batteries, a d5100r and a xp3000. What would be a decent charger i could have on them? Also what kind of on-board maintainer charger would be good to use?

Need a reasonably priced ($200 or less) amp to power two Alpine Type r 12"s These will be going into a '93 range rover LWB. Hopefully in a custom box facing upwards. As of now i want a Hifonics 1208d. What do you think? BY THE WAY, these subs will be used daily. 4g wiring kit.

Ok so some of you may have read my other thread about the RF amp. Well I put my AQ 4X90 back in and bridged it on my fronts and got a naaaasty engine whine. I checked the ground, it was tight. I tried both my sub rca's and another pair of rca's they both make the noise. Sub amp makes no noise. When I disconnect the rca's the noise stops. I moved the ground so that my sub amp and the AQ's grounds were seperate, still got the noise. The noise stays loud regardless of head unit volume. I put the RF amp back in and it makes the same noise. I'm very clueless and frustrated. I followed the noise guide but none of it helped.

Any recommendations out there? I'm looking to get a Double DIN Non Nav unit with at least 4v preouts. I will have powered door speakers and then my SSA XCON in the rear powered by the RF T1500. Thanks for any recommendations.

I just recently found out that my T400-4 has some major issues with crosstalk. I talked with a local guy advertising on CL for amp repair and $25 for testing and flat $125 for repair has me wondering if it would be cost effective to fix it vs selling it cheap to someone that wants to mess with it and getting new amp(s) to properly power to my mids. The ad in question is http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/eld/4346888840.htmlI am trying to run a set of ID X65 and XS28 in a 2-way active setup. I have been eyeing the arc foose amps and the zapco st-x and st-d lines if I were to change what I was running. My goals are to utilize my current drivers in the stock door locations t…

I currently have 2 batteries in my car. I've been using my ctek 3300 to charge both at the same time... Shizz mentioned something about not charging batteries at the same time because of possible issues with rest voltage differences between batteries. If I want to charge mine separately, could I just disconnect the positive(charge) wire and leave the ground connected when charging the batteries so they are charged separate??? Does this make sense?

Ok so I'm looking for a few suggestions on a few amps for my planned 4 Sundown X 10's or other comparable sub. Vehicle is 07 Mini Cooper s Big 3 1/0 upgrade Battery is stock till it finally goes then plan on an AGM of some sort will worry later on that HU is Pioneer 80 prs as far as goals are concerned I really dont have any I just want to have other Mini's jealous. I know thats a stupd goal but at te moment I'm not competing or showing possibly in future but I just like thhe idea of 4 10's Budget Currently Ha but looking to stay around 400/amp probably looking at 2 amps plus a new 4 channel amp for my Mids/Highs which at time are Kicker SS 56.2 possably into replacing…

I've been looking at the audio control epicenter. I would like to put some Iron Maiden, Judas Priest, Molly hatchet and so on in the cd player and actually have some bass. I know there are a few different bass restoration processors out there and I have a basic understanding of how they work. I've been searching this topic for better then a week now, but the info. I like to know doesn't seem to be easy to find. I see videos where a turn of the knob makes your subs start "doing work". Most of the topics I run across are either useless videos or "my subs are blown up". What I can't find is are they worth it? Yes there may be more output at the turn of a knob, but does it so…

This is a thread where you post pics of birthsheets/benchtests so that people can use this thread as a reference when looking at amplifiers to have a generally idea of what a particular amplifier is capable of producing ...

so lately all of sudden my system will be playing and the bass randomly quits and i dont even have the system up loud or bass up alot. sometimes when it happens i can turn the sound down and it will cut back on. the whole amp cuts off looks like. its in a 2002 s-10 stock alt bat have an us amps md1d and ten inch re sx any help with this? im in the process checking all connections right now