Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hi all, My question is a daily/Competing question. it has to do with the Street classes in DB drag. in street A they only allow One (1) battery in the stock location. which is fine, for competing and doing the whole burp it and go thing. but with an saz-3000 i feel i will need more than one battery for daily driving and for the other organization im competing in Midwest SPL (no battery restrictions). so my question is what is the best way to do this? safely of course. My initial thought was to have a sort of buss bar for positive and negative (this may get complicated so bear with me). I will run one 2/0 welding cable from the front battery to the trunk Buss bars …

what should i set the Sub sonic at if its a 15" FI BTL Ported at about 33Hz ive heard 23 and ive heard 33.. and what the funk do i set the phase to? 0-180 degrees

I have an alpine 9887 with 4v preouts. I'm running 4 mono amps for my subs. I have been using a maxxling with 9v line driver. I have heard the maxxlink presents much distortion. I decided not to use it on the rebuild. My question is will I have enough rca voltage to run 4 huge amps in one set of rcas.

So when trying to calculate your voltage, do you use ur ideal ohm load or the actual ohm load measured with a dmm? also say your amp does 1500 watts @ 1ohm, will it still be putting out that much or close to after impedance rises (say to 1.4ohm)?

I read quite a few questions regarding electrical supply and demand so I decided to post this link to help figure out any electrical dilemma you may be having. http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp

I just went and bought a Digital Multimeter because I will be getting a stinger voltmeter soon.. plus I just needed one, and well.. I have no idea how to use it!!! I tried my best and got a spark and some awfully hot wire thingys... ouch. First off there are 2 different red plugs and 1 black plug slots at the bottom of the dmm.. I wasn't sure how to know which red one to plug into, and obv. the black went into the only black slot. After that i went over to DCv and scrolled the wheel over to 20.. I assumed you go higher than the voltage you are going to read.. which for cars is around 12v.. Then I stuck my red probe onto my + on my amp and black onto my - on amp.. and.. s…

So right now I am planning out my system. It is going to be about 2600 watts total, using either RF, Kicker, or Sundown amps. I have a 160 amp alt now as well as the stock 730 ampere battery. Of course I will be doing the big 3 upgrade. I am almost certain I may need another little battery just in case, a smaller Kinetik or so. What are the chances of me needing a bigger alt?

My 1/0 gauge just came in and I was wanting to get started on my Big 3 upgrade. Just wanted to run it by you guys real quick to make sure I had everything correct. First off I read not to just crimp these wires but to solder them as well because it makes a much better connection. (Any tips on soldering? This will be my first time.) I watched a few videos on youtube and it seemed fairly easy but any tips will help. But I am going to run 0 gauge from the neg. of my battery to the chassis of my car. Then from the positive of my battery to the alt. I seen a few people put fuses in between this run.. Is that necessary to fuse between pos. of batt and alt? Then finally …

ok so i have a 76 caprice i need to know what i need to do to properly power 1 of the saz-1500's im gettn stock alt 63amps brand new 4ga big 3 but upgrading to 1/0 when i get the amp $50 battery from autozone im looking for a decently priced big battery so what will i need to power this thing right

O.K. I own a JL 300/4 and the amp has been cutting in and out. Sometimes the power light stays on but the music sounds as if it's muted. Other times the amp shuts down completly. The local shop that installed the amp ran 8 guage power and ground wires off my second battery in the rear (kinetic 800). Is the amp not getting enough current or is it dying? Any suggestions are appreciated. I'm thinking of saying screw the JL amps and going with Sundown! BTW the rest of my equipment is in my sig.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...mMakeTrack=true second time it's been listed for $200. First time they tried to sell it, it had a $5000 Buy It Now It obviously didnt sell the first time. So I emailed the seller asking for a lower price. They promptly told me to get lost and if I was really interested I would have bid. So is it worth $200 (plus $15 s&h)? Whose that guy on here that has a few? How do you like them?

I may need to order some wire specifically for tight areas soon. If i do, has anyone actually used both of these before? I know Kolossus Flex is so flexible it feels like there is no wire in the jacket... But i do not know how flexible they have made the 4/0 in RE... My runs would need to do an "S" in about a 6" range.

any difference between the two? voice coils parallel/speakers series or voice coils series/speakers parallel? (2dvc4ohm subs to a 4ohm load) Thanks

ive got two amps in mind does any one have thoughts on witch would i be happier with the saz2000d or the aq2200d the one that i get will run one 12" fi btl w/cooling in a 2.5ft3 tuned to 33hz big three and 200amp alternator just wondering witch to go with

i just got 2 new kicker c12's with an RMS of 150 watts and impedance of 8 ohms...wat is the best amp for these subs?

what do you guys think of Re amps the have the 1200x 1. What is retail for one?? I also have another question. If i have a 2 ohm sub how can i run it at 1 ohm to get 1200watts

Currently my setup is as follows: Acura RSX HU: Alpine IVA-W200 Front: Focal Utopia 6.5" and tweets Rear: Focal Polyglass 6.5" Highs Amp: JL 450/4 Subs: 2 Fi Q12" Sub Amp: RF T20001BD I've never tried hooking up 3 sets of components in a vehicle before as I normally have enough with two sets. I was thinking of putting some kick panels in and using the Focal K2 5.25" components I have sitting in my closet. Is there any way I could hook this up without another amp? If not possible, think I would be ok just removing my rear fill and using that channel on the amp for the K2's? Or would that be like too much just coming from the front and only bass in the back...I don't kn…

Anyone have any inside info or guesses as to when car audio manufacturers will be using Toslink cables for connections. Stepping up from a decent RCA cable to a fiberoptic cable made a noticible differnce in my HT set up.

Is it ok to mount the amps on the sub enclosure?

So i'm kind of new in car audio and i was wondering if i have a 2 4 ohm HDS212 and i wire them down to 1 ohm would a Q1-750 be enough power or should i go bigger?

is it ok to have a optima yellow top under the hood and two kinetiks in the back since they both AGM ? or a optima up front and two xs power in the back ??? thanks to those that take their time on replying to my NOOB ass lol i appreciated

So, we did a rewire, and the Pioneer has been sitting for a little while. Went to test speakers and the h/u wouldnt power up, except the amps were turning on, h/u was getting power though. Fuse looked fine.

I was looking around for an amp to run my single 12 inch Crossfire BMF. I was looking for an amp that would put out around 500 watts at 2 ohms. I found the Kenwood kac-9103d for only $200 and its rated to put out 900 watts at 2ohms and its 1 ohm stable. Its CEA rated so I assume it puts out the power suggested. Has anyone ever ran one, or better yet tested one? Almost 1000 watts for only $200 from a well known car audio company just seems to good to be true. I have never personally ran Kenwood amps before, but at that price I am willing to give it a shot. All opinions are welcome. Peace, Lee

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Just got this fold down face HU today for a tank of gas and 5 bucks. It needs the code for it and my local Kenwood shop wants 85 bones to send it to them for the code. Can someone help me??? I could use a code or someone who can help me here. J