Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hi all, Am currently waiting for my FI Q15" and a Sundown 1000SAE to be delivered so that I can start my install. I drive a 2008 Hyundai Elentra and need some help in figuring out the best recommended wire runs both for the amp as well as my alternator. What do I need to replace or add? I want to make sure that I don't die sitting at a stop light... lol...

Well I don't know if I'm growing up, or just really wanting some better sound, but I'm really wanting a nice sq front stage. Unfortunately I can only adjust the placement of the speakers in the door panels for now, but maybe down the road I'll be able to do some more custom fabrication. This is an 01 tahoe if it makes a difference btw. I am running a set of realm audio 6.5 components off an eclipse ea4000 as my front stage at the moment. I would like to try a 3-way active setup, still using the realm 6.5s and tweeters, and getting either a 7 or 8 inch mid. I plan on running the 6.5s and 7s/8s off an eclipse XA4001 (or another ea4000) 4 channel, and 2 channels of the last …

i'm running one mtx 8100d to one fi bl 18. i have a second 8100d and was thinking about using a maxxlink to strap them but not sure if it will kill the sub. my second thought was to sell both amps and get a saz-1500. the more i read about them the more i'm leaning towards going with sundown. so anyway is the epic-160 worth getting?

Hey guys. I just finished my system and I used a digital distribution block. This one: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-22D It stays on (Displays voltage), even when the car is off. I thought it would have had an automatic shut off, but I guess since it's directly connected to the battery it stays on? Can anyone confirm. Just seems weird..

anyone know of any good 2000 watt amps? i would like to put 2 saz1000's but its a lil out of my price range, but if all else fails ill just get 1 saz1500

Ok my subs are set to never really pop or clip unless you put alot of gain up i have my gain set right according to the dmm set at 43 volts Running a sundown 1500d at 1.5 - 2 ohms. Well i know its not the subs they can take a harder beating by mean turning the gain up higher just distorting them a lil bit so thats not the problem. The popping seems to only happen when on the highway with all windows down doesnt do it when in the city with windows down. So what is the problem here? I have the volume the same spot on samg song in the city and nothing happens. Can someone help me out with this.

NSBG-3100 Vs Kinetik HC2400 Which is the better battery?

Hey all. I have a 12" Fi BL wired like this: My question is that I bought 8AWG to wire the thing, problem is, the terminals only accept about 12AWG. So I trimmed about 1/2 or more the wires at the stripped ends, making it 16AWG, and I used 12AWG to wire the + --> + and - --> - and cut the ends the same way.. Should I be concerned, or what would have been a better option? Those damn holes are so small. =[ PS: twisted speaker wire is a PITA to strip.

I'd really like to learn (not ask here whenever i have a question) how the amp draws current, and where it draws from (how the alternator comes in to play and such). A buddy was asking me if he should get 2 bls, and i told him his electrical couldn't handle it if he were to power them as much as he wanted to. I'm pretty confident what i told him was right, but i'd really like to know more, it just bugs me to tell him that and not know why myself lol. Anyone know of a good link or two so i can learn about this?

I am going to be getting my subs back this next week. I have 4 8's a 2000 watt hifonics brtus amp. with i believe 8ga wire with a optmia red top up front. would a cap be the way i should go or would another battery be better.

The subs I'm most likely getting are the Mach 5 IXL-12.2.2...two of them, and they are only Dual 2. With the Orion, I'd need to run it @ 0.5 ohm. With the Directed, I can run it @ 2 ohm. With the Directed, it has to come across the border. Which would you get? I can get both for the same price, but the Directed has to come across the border..

my friend wants some subs for his dodge ram full cab, hes gettin a pro box for under his seat and 2 re se subs, he doesnt know many amp models and his price range is from 500-700 for everything and the box and subs would be about 350-400, anyone know a decent amp that would be 2 channel and put atleast 600 watts to each speaker and still meet his price range?

i plan on running a power and ground directly to my amps from under the hood. i dont really want to ground into the trunk. does this make a difference? i am also going to do the big 3 upgrade. kicker zx2500.1, and a zx650.4 are the amps. 2 optima 34/78 yellow tops.

Alpine PXA-H701 w/RUX-C701 vs. AudioControl DQXS w/DDC

My 97 EB expedition has 4 gauge wire comming to and from the battery. Double that on the power. I am going to replace the ground wire on the bat with 1/0, but the power side is all so beefy I'm not really sure I need to. My deck has a volt meter built in, and I have been playing with it, and wanted to know if you guys think I may need to upgrade the electrical. I have not installed any amps yet and really just want to get a feel for if you think anything else should be upgraded. When idle I sit at about 13.8 V. I don't know how much drop I should expect, but if I open and close all 4 windows at the same time I drop a few tenths of a volt. When I turn on the lights …

ok i have a 1995 dodge ram single cab and i am buying 8 rockford fosgate 5 1/4 4 in each door a set of rockford fosgate 6.5 components. i want to know what amps i should run these with i would prefer a separate amp for the component set. i am looking to buy from ebay,sonicelectronix,or onlinecarstereo. this is the product code for the speakers i am going to use. Rockford Fosgate P162S-- component set Rockford Fosgate Punch P152C-- speakers

I've never bought all the wires and stuff separately, I've only used those amp install kits. Im trying to figure out how much it will cost to wire up my amp and stuff. Orion 2500D. I'm going to need an alternator, I was thinkin a universal alternator... I can make brackets for it, we have welders and stuff and I can weld. Reason why is I have an engine coming sooner or later for the truck, and its a different engine than what is in it. So I'll just make a new bracket for the other engine. I want to run the secondary alt seperate than the existing charging system, and have it dedicated to 1-2 batteries and the amp will run off those batteries.. Not sure what batteries eit…

Like the title says im trying to wire up my components. They are Infinity Perfect 6.1, and im trying to use a kicker kx 250.2 amp. I know I have to bridge the amp to get 4 ohms but every time I wire it up the amp shuts off at high volume for a few sec ds and then tries to kick back on. Some info: 0ga run from the battery to a distribution block From distribution block 4ga to Hifonics 1208 Brutis, 8ga to Kicker kx 250.2 Same size wire for ground to another distribution block and 0ga to frame 200amp alt. with big 3 done SO my question how do I wire this up so I know im doing it right, and what could be making the amp shut off?

Okay s i just got out of the sub thread and decided to go with a single maw-15 setup in my G6. Currently Im using an Orion 600D On two maw-15's which is horrible because i believe they are only getting abot 175/200 watts to each sub. if that. So Im looking for a mono-block amp that will give my maw-15 around 500-600 watts continuous. It's been broken in so I'm sure i can push it to 600 watts. thanks in advance ~MadroX

out of these amp who make a better 1 ATOMIC 7000.1 http://www.atomicspeakers.com/7000d.html or the American bass VFL 500 Amplifier http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/American_Bass_VFL_500.1/ both amps are rated at 7000 rms so who wins

Hey guys Im having issues trying to find a decent mounting kit for my dime. I have a 2000 but I have gone from 1.5 DIN to 2 DIN. THe thing I dont like is that I had to cut the plastic piece that the OEM stereo rested on. So now the HU I have just kinda floats. I was wondering if anyone knows of a mounting kit that will stop this, something like a pocket that it will slide into. Thanks in advance.

so, like the title says, im begin to look into an active set up. right now i have chitty sony hu (cdx gt310.... first hu). im basicly looking to the option i should be considering when goin to an active set up. obviously im looking for new hu. my idea is to slowly work up the funds for it or put it on my xmax list. as a college student i really dont have the funds but im very interested in this hobby and i think this is the next step. well technically i will be deadening the front doors first and finishing the trunk. my plans are to sell my current hu and pg rsd components when the time comes ofcourse. i also need to run new rca's and clean up some power and gound wiring …

hey guys, i'm here to get some help with deciding whether or not to get a dash kit for an 08 accord for a new HU, but i'm having trouble seeing if the top screen and the steering wheel controls will still be active after putting in a new HU. here's what the inside of the car looks like. And here's the scosche kit Looks like it will fit in nicely, but i'm more concerned about whether or top screen where the radio station, tracks etc. are shown, will stay active or will be all shown through the new HU. Thanks for the help guys.

wiring two yellows! one red one black two yellows! i have never seen this before.

Hi there, Can you guyz tell me whether there are other brand (amps) that has "Time Alignment" feature besides ZAPCO's DC Reference? Thanks for your help, Kelvin