Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I currently have an mb quart dsc 4125 for 2 peerless sls 8's(does 500 x 2 bridged) sundown 100.4(tang bang mids & alpine tweets) and a sundown 3000 for 2 xcon's. I was doing some measurements in the trunk of my acura tl while laying down deadening and there's no way to fit those 3 amps, 4 cube box, and a big battery so i need smaller footprint amps. what i need is 1 4 channel that can do 300+ bridged @ 4 ohms(pdx is an option, though i'd like something smaller) 1 4 channel that can do 100-125 x 4 @ 4 ohms(may pick up an arc audio mini) 1 mono amp that can do 3000-3300 @ 1 ohm

ok here is the scenario: im running 2 BLs off of 2 1000.1 kickers and am gettin some dimmage(only when i turn it up), everything is stock question(s): whats the difference between a red top and yellow top(which is better reccommended if at all)? or do i need to get an xtra battery and/or cap? should i go ahead and attempt the "big 3 upgrade" to see if it helps any? thx in advance, and sorry, im noob when it comes to this stuff

im gonna be running 4 sa-12's, my electrical consists of 180 amp dc power alt (coming very soon), big 3, kinetic hc2000 under the hood and a hc600 in the back(all i could fit) so with that electrical, i need an amp that will power those sa-12's @1ohm. im thinking maybe 2500-3000 watts. has to be fairly small...maybe like 12 wide by like 22 long or so. i was gonna get the AP3000 but i dont have room for it unless i mount it on the backside of my box and i really dont want to do that. so any suggestions for amps that fit that criteria that will run with little to no voltage drop on my electrical in the 350 dollar range? i was thinking AQ2200D but i think the sa-12's would l…

so i am gonna get me a 3000d and i want o be able to run it, my zx650.4 and my car at full tilt sometimes so this is what ive come up with d2700 up front d3100 in back big three in 0/1 and one run back to the saz300d ive got 4ga ran already for the zx650.4 how am i doing so far?

I have a '97 Grand Prix with a 220amp alt. and a 1.5v booster on it. I have a SAZ3500D BNIB, and will be picking up my 15" SMD in a week. I already ran the big 3 with 0 gauge and 2 runs of pos. & neg. to the back. Now I am looking at atlernators, should I get a 300+ alternator or can I run another 220amp alt. ? I can get another stock rebuilt to 220amps for about $200 and I know a couple welders that want to build a dual bracket, they are hard to find for a 3.8 V6, as are 300amp alts.. If I do get a 300a alt can I get by with just that one? And what are some suggested batteries for each setup? THANK YALL FOR YOU INPUT! I did try to search for my answer...

hey guys, I'm plannig on running 1 Sundown Audio 3000 to either a 1 15" OR 1 18" FI BTL. What do I need to power this bad boy?? hah. I already did the research and I can get my hands on a 250amp h/o alt. Now the bad part is that im running this in A VW Golf so the space is minimal and going to be very tight for this build. I dont plan on doing competitions, its more for a daily car. Any idea what I need? I'm definately swapping out my primary battery (stock)...anything else? Cheers, Andrew

just got this idea sitting in econ today listening to my awful TA talk about derived demand for labor... I know normally the alt isn't used for transient loads, but would it be at all possible to hook up a power wire to the alt and send it straight to the amp, using a high capacity cap somewhere along the way to stiffen the voltage during amp draws? I was thinking that in this scenario, the cap would be acting just like a battery

I have a cheap 300w amp that I plan to run to my doors and 6x9's in rear deck. I already have a run of 1/0 to my 1000w mephis amp. I was wondering if it is a good idea to run a short run of about 12-16g wire from the power inputs on the mephis where the 1/0 is, and from there to the power inputs on the 300w to keep from having to put in another run of power cable from battery to the trunk. I tried this already just to power the amp and it worked, but I didn't have any speakers wired to it. Would this be logical, or would it mess something up?

I just got my 12" H2 but I have spent to much funds lately. I still have to get my components and an amp for the components. I really wanted to get a 2500 amp but its not going to happen for now. So do you think I will be missing out a lot by getting a 1200 amp? I will be running it in a 1.5 cu ft sealed enclosure.

is one powermaster 3100 in the front cell enough for one saz 3000d? or will i need one powermaster in the front cell, and one in the back of the vehicle. i should be pulling around 2000 watt rms

Hello everyone where is the cheapest place to buy a Powermaster D3100 battery? also can I connect the powermaster to my Stinger SP1700 battery? thanks....Brian

Which is a better battery: Powermaster d3100 or the kinetik 2400?

does anybody know what size kinetik or powermaster will fit under hood of expedition? I am going to run either powermaster 3100 or couple kinetik 2000s in back, but expedition has side post in front, and not much clearance for hood.

Found these on ebay because I was bored at work. They say the one for my explorer is a 250 amp and will do it @ 1200 rpm. for $170.00 free shipping. Anybody ever ran across/used them?

I came across Powersurge batteries on the net and after reading over the page and talking to the owner they seem to be pretty legit batts. Im posting this because I want to hear from people who have used them, knows someone who has used them and so on. What do you think of these batts? Legit? Pros? Cons?

Seen a few videos, made in Brazil anyone have any info?

Where can you find these I’ve seen someone mention they can handle 6v out

Not too sure what to think of these... 100ah batteries for 160 bucks? I'm assuming that build quality isn't there compared to other high end battery makers, would they even be worth using? I'll probably be needing some backup electrical sometime soon and don't have a ton of money.

Does anyone know a good place online to buy 4/0 guage wire from?

the amp arrived today, and I just fooled around with the buttons until I came up with something that sounded good. Between the Pioneer DEH-80etc. and this there's a lot more tweaking than in the old days! I have 4 sets of comps, one in each door so they're all identical. I also have a matching crossover box for each comp with sep. cables going to tweet & 6.5 mid. I do NOT want to bridge this. I want full control over all four comps to adjust for placement strength etc. But I will say this, after listening for an hour in my driveway the thing went into protection mode...already! At one point on the fader, fading to ALL front made the sound (except sub) vanish,…

anyone try any of the newer ppi phantom amps? im looking @ the 900.4 and seems like its inexpensive under 200 shipped for 145 x4 and active capable . wondering if they do rated and are clean sounding amps ... i know the oldschool ppi were great would like to try the newer stuff if its still decent quality . any info is appreciated

Does anyone here own a a600 art serie ppi I was wondering if its normal when the power light comes on red because my a1200 comes on red for a second then turn green but the 600 stays red but still works fine so im kinda nervous on this anyone that has on please tell me if the light is normal

first off is it better to stick w/ the same brand when dealin w/ amps for a system? i plan on purchasing the pioneer premier ts-c720prs comps powered by the zed audio gladius burr brown. i have a 10w7 (for testing purposes) and my friend says if i go w/ the gladius for comps i should get another zed for the sub. so now im thinkin bout doin two ppi art series amps thx in advance

will the ppi black ice 800.4 be enough to run a set of alpine type r components up front and a ssa dcon off the rear 2 channels bridged? or should I plan to invest in a second amp also are there any electrical changes that have to be made for that amp I would assume not but due to all the computers in my jeep I want to make sure the voltage would be safe

I recently had been in the market for a DSP, and ran across this pice of equipment. The PPI DSP-88r and some input from fellow car audio nuts. Is it worth the $209 bucks. Pros. And cons. Thanks in advance