Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

http://www.gruberpower.com/gruberpower/adv...8-GPS12-270.asp i will have at least 3 or 4 of them. or should i go with the HC kinetiks? these will be powering either two sundown SAZ1500d or one SAZ300d. 4 18" FI SSD stock

so as you may know according to my sig, as i wait for 1/0 gauge in the mail, my amp frequently goes into protect mode b/ my sh*tty "4 gauge" wire lacks the capacity to deliver consistent power. if the amp goes into protect too many times, is it toast? it seems to be sounding a little funny lately... like it lacks the output it once had......

so i was diggin around in the garage and found an old amp that my dad had for his car back in the day. and it says its a pyramid audio class a bridgeable amp. that is 200 watts x 2 channels. and im curious if anyone here has even used this amp before? its ancient lol but my dad said it worked when he used to. he just doesn't remember anything about it. anyone got any ideas about it or anything? specs i mean ANYTHING would be awesome, i was just gonna play around with it so i mean whatever lol thanks everyone (btw not trying to affend anyone saying its ancient im young but i still love you oldies ) Uploaded with ImageShack.us

How many in-line fuse holders do I need? 1/0 from front to a Stinger T splitter (http://www.woofersetc.com/p8033/SPD512--Stinger-1-0-Gauge-Tee-Distribution-Block.htm) and 1/0 going to SAZ-1500, and 4ga going to a Alpine PDX 4.150. I am going to order a Stinger 150 to go between the SAZ amp and the T and a 60amp to go between the Alpine amp and the T Do I also need a 250 amp inline up front under hood or is that overkill? Thanks

i need to wire my sub at 2 ohms. the blue line on the right that goes from 1 of the positive's, to 1 of the negative's, is that 1 piece of speaker wire or is it both that i twist together and put in the terminal? like speaker wire has a positive and negative, do i separate it and only use one side, or do i twist together and just use both? hopefully my questions makes sense. thanks guys.

i need help picking a new headunit either the pioneer deh 7100bt or the soundstream vir7870 dvd i do compete so i want it to work with comps also

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-1beekNQF1H5/c...05V=on&x=13&y=2

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/IMG-6963JPG-image4588.html not a bad buy i think for 200.00 bucks my CVX's are going to hate me lulz sorry just noticed my draws in the pic just droped it on the laundry basket. Sorry bout that.

I bought a 06 silverado with the bose system an i was wandering if theres a way to run a aux cord from the amp an bypass the headunit?

You know, like JL Audio Slash series & Eclipse XA series...

after buying these batteries i found out that they are 34M's and are "starting only". now does this matter? the MCA is 1000, CCA 800, AH 50, RC 100. Did i get ripped? (only paid 100 each) or are they good?

so yea before i start buying and end up with tons of stuff that i can't use, i want your all's opinions. The setup i'm going to have is... avalanche sub (dvc both coils ran to terminals on box) orion 1200d amp running @ 1 ohm, but want capable of running at 1/2 (in case i get another ava) so i'm guessing 1/0 power wire instead of my 4ga Pioneer 35w X 2 @4ohm (has scoshe kit running to it now, looks like 10g power wire)...going to run it to my tweets eventually cadence z1200c (best info i can find says 250W X 2 @ 4ohm) going to run comps off this eventually) soo, here's my ideas so far, i'm wanting to go with knukonceptz unless someone knows a better brand that is less e…

Hey guys i have a question about using a second battery. i have a 95 Caddi stock alt. iterstate battery up front. i have done the BIG 3 using 4ga. The amps im running are the R/F P-400.4 at 4ohm each chanel and the R/F T500.1bdcp at 2ohm on two 4ohm svc 12" Dcons. i have been looking at the XS battery's. And would like to know if i would benifit from running one, and if so wich would be seggested. thanks for the feed back

ok ive been looking throught the "big 3" posts and i understand everything except for the block to chassi ground i cant seem to find the stock one on my truck. if i cant get to it what would be the easiest way to do this also would it hurt anything if i ran 2 1/0 from alt + to batt+?

its from IKESound and we are crazy tight with cash now.. but I thought I would pass this on to everyone else, (yes there is an ebay specials topic but this one is pretty big) http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-MB-Quart-QAA2500-2...1QQcmdZViewItem anyone able to track down some more info on this model since the website does not admit to ever making amplifers..

Do pretty much all head units send out a clipped signal at 3/4 volume? I remember reading something about 3/4 volume and never pushing the head unit to 100% volume... Also, if that's the case why don't manufacturers limit how much you can crank it (if possible?)

I currently have this head unit http://www.walmart.com/ip/JVC-KD-S37-USB-CD-Receiver-with-Front-AUX-In/15627186 with 2volt pre outs i believe. I was wondering if i upgraded to this http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_48464_Kenwood-KDC-X696.html with 4volt pre outs if i would notice a difference in the way my system sounded. Higher pre outs are good right??

Howdy, I've ordered 1 fully loaded BTL12, Dual 1 ohm for daily use. I was eyeballing a Soundstream XXX 4000D to power the thing. In talking to an installer, they have suggested that the amp wouldn't work efficiently with the BTL Sub. They are currently trying to sell me on securing two 2000D's from soundstream and running one sub per voice coil. Looking around, this doesn't seem to be the best course of action eitehr. Any thoughts? This install will be in a 2009 Dodge Challenger RT. I'll be going with an Eclipse Navigation head unit. Stock stereo is the six speaker Boston Acoustics setup with a 270 watt amp for mids and highs.

So my amp has been acting up since the day I got it.(Diablo Audio Technologies HellFire 1000.1) The problem is that it plays for a few minutes after I turn on the truck and goes into "Alarm Mode". (If I restart the truck it will come back on for a few minutes as if it had a clock inside telling the amp to only turn on for a few minutes(3 or 5 min.)) At first the ground was a little loose so I tightened it. It still kept on doing it so I bought some Sandpaper to make a nice, clean ground and it still does it. Can someone help me? P.S.- As I've mentioned before I did a direct swap with my MTX amp. In fact, the only thing I changed was the ground which is alot better now. H…

I'm almost embarrassed to be asking this but I want to do my own instal for the first time since 1995 and I know there are some major pros on this site, here goes... I'm keeping the factory radio, no NAV, no amplifier on my 2013 JEEP Wrangler with the stock 6 speaker system. I plan on using my Audio Control LC2i as a line driver and purchasing a PPI 900.4 and mounting under the dash. I bought a Bravox component system from this forum for the front and have replaced the sound bar coaxles with a pair of Alpine type S's I picked up for $25. I'm using deck power for the sound bar, I hated the idea of rear speakers at first but a Jeep is a rolling compromise, and will us…

I've been having problems with my stock battery and I want to replace it. So I want something good to replace it. I just measured and I have a max 12" long x 7.5" wide. I'm just a little unsure what to go with. My budget is around $200 but I don't mind spending a little more if need be. This is my first battery purchase so I'm not sure what the best place to order from either. I was thinking a Kinetik 1800 but I'm not sure, I just don't want to make the wrong decision and regret it. Appreciate any help.

now i have been running mono amps for a while, and some have 1 speaker output and some have 2.... why??? like my T10001BD had 2, but my swiss audio SDX2000D had one... i dont understand ????

Hey everyone, I have two 12" Fi SSD's on their way...I ordered 1-ohm DVC so I could wire them to 1-ohm with my amp. I found a diagram of how to wire them, but I have a problem. I made my box so that each sub has its own airspace, so I'm going to need a seperate terminal cup for each sub. Would I wire it like this? (I didn't put the terminal cups in the diagram...but you get the point) This is the original diagram I found. I guess what I'm asking is, are both diagrams the same? Thanks!

ok well in the mini cooper, the back windows are tinted with 5%, plus will be covered completely anyways, so NO sun at ALL will be coming in the back hatch area where the amps are. they are those MTX TA amps, they have that "xtant" cooling thing or whatever, where it sucks air in the front, and it blows out the sides or something like that. well, since its gonna be walled off, no a/c will be in the rear...i basically wanna throw a few fans in the back that come on with the headunit just to have airflow back there....and i dont mean a couple little PC fans...any ideas? something that wont draw hardly any amperage either.

i can get two jl audio 500.1 slashes one has high frequency noise and the other has a blown channel bt they both power up fine i can get them for $120 is it worth me getting them fixed? and do you know what could possibaly be wrong?