Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

did some digging and this is what I have found so far.. a review on one of them from australia vs a pair of D3s and pair of Crossfire 4000Ds, link below: Surfboard

Looking to go active in my truck and have found one of these pretty cheap. Very budget oriented system, but would prefer to keep everything active. Does anyone have any thoughts on this beast? http://www.pioneer.be/be/product_detail.js...xonomy_id=25-38 It looks like it will work for what I would use it with: rli10" and a mid-range/tweet combo tbd

It was brought up in another topic I have, but they said they could get an 80 amp fuse to hold on a 3500 watt burp. I plan on competing in meca and knowing how this is done would be vital info to me. Let me know how its done.

Well, I have all the speakers that are going in my truck, however, I lack the power to get them up and running. I came across a thread over on CA.com that linked me to a memphis amp called the "mch1300". I don't know much about memphis products, but that's beside the point. My question is this, instead of having to buy a lot of amps will this power the following: 2 image dnymaic cx62's @ 2ohm so they should get 115 watts, 2 koda 8's they are 4ohm so they should get 75 watts, and a eclipse ti, it's DVC 4ohm so it should recieve 600 watts. Is this correct? That would mean I would just need to get an amp for my horns and I'd be set. Also the kodas, really won't be get…

This is my first time messing with the GM Data system as my older tahoe didn't have it. I don't care about keeping satellite radio, onstar, or the bose system. I DO want to retain warning chimes, retained accessory power, and steering wheel controls. I'm installing aftermarket head unit, amps, etc. I am looking at either the PAC RP3-GM11 and PAC SWI-RC(~$120), or Metra BX-GM1 and Metra ASWC-1(~$90). Of course saving money is nice, but I don't want to have any integration issues. Just hoping someone has used one or the other, or both, and knows if there are any known issues. Edit: I suppose I should mention I am working on a 2005 silverado.

ok...i have a sony cd player that im wanting to put in my truck.....i know what all the wires for the cd player are except 2......the blue and the blue/white.....i know one of them will be the remote......and im assuming the other will be the illumination...and the next thing i need is the factory color codes for the truck....its a 96 isuzu hombre.........and dont tell me installdr.com they dont have info on my isuzu

I have the Pioneer AVH-3200DVD And I cant seem to play vids from the USB Can anyone help me out or had the same problem

I bought 2 IDMAX 10" D4's CHEAP, was putting one in the wifes car and selling other but she wants to wait on her stereo. So I am putting both in my expedition. I have never had any ID subs and these are only ones I have heard. I listen to mostly Rock, metal, some country. I have read to do sealed mostly and some say ported. I was either going to run a sundown 1000 or alpine pdx 1000. Any suggestions on these? thanks

OK! My HU got jack a couple week ago and i've been looking to buy a new one. my budget is about $350.I ownly listen to CD's and MP3's which do you guy suggest http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=16945 or http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=18480 I'm really into SQ Thanks for the help!!!

JUST PURCHASED A NEW 1200D.HAD IT INSTALLED,PLAYED WELL FOR 3 DAYS.AND THE OTHER DAY,I GOT IN MY CAR,STARTED UP,TURNED MY HU ON,THE BLUE LIGHT LIT UP AND TURNED BACK OFF.WENT TO MY TRUNK,AND THE AMP WAS IN PROTECT.FIRST THING I DONE WAS DISCONNECTED MY RCA'S AND SPEAKER WIRES(STILL IN PROTECT)CHECKED MY GROUNDS(THEY WERE CLEAN AND TIGHT)CHECKED MY B+ AND GND(14.2V)CHECKED FUSES(NONE BLOWN)ALL WIRING SEEMS TO BE FINE.I CHECKED EVERYTHING FROM THE BATTERY TO THE AMP(HU INCLUDED)............ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT MAY BE THE ISSUE?

Which one would be the better choice. I have my DEI 1100D at ikessound and they are waiting for a new shipment of refurbs, Dustin offered me a PPI 1000.1 as a replacement.

Anyone have the specs or a link to TRU's new Steel line, Tru's webpage does not have the latest models. Interested in spec's on the S45. Was told to look on diyma but only found the S44 specs. Thanks

I have an amp with the following specs: 2 x 75 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms 2 x 150 Watts Max at 4 Ohms 1 x 300 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged 2 x 125 Watts at 2 Ohms Electronic Crossover Network Bass Boost Circuit 2 Ohm Stereo Stable Tri-Mode Capable Gold RCA Inputs Power & Protection LED Indicators Advanced Protection Circuitry Soft Turn On/Off VU Meter Thermometer Frequency Response: 15 Hz-35 kHz S/N Ratio: 90 dB I know its not the best of specs in the world, but it is all I have right now so I want to make this work. I got a TC-1000 12" DVC 4ohm, so if I bridge the amp that is a 2ohm load on the amp. My amp says its only 2ohm Stereo stable, so I was thinking…

I have a ssa dcon dual 4 ohm and I bought a mtx thunder 3401 momkblock amp from a friend. I want to wire it to 2 ohms. The amp has two pos and neg outputs. Idk how to wire it. Do I wire it as if it's bridged and do pos of first two outputs with neg of the second two outputs? Just got it today and I did wire it the way I said and it doesn't sound as if it's pushing the full 400 watts. If anyone can get me a wiring diagram for this amp that would help

I have been debating on how to ground multiple runs of 1/0 for my upcoming install. So I figure weld some 5/16 bolts to a length of steel channel bar, then weld that to the body of the car. this would give multiple point fors grounding and I wouldn't have to rely on screwing ring terminals to the sheet metal and risking it coming loose.

What kind of Parametric EQ do you guy's recommend? I have a clarion deck, it only has 2 volt pre-outs but its loaded with options such as you can rip someones cd directly on the deck, SD card mp3s, Ipod etc etc. Anyway it only has Bass and Treble for EQ therefore I want to either get a Parametric EQ or maybe one of those high speed 30 band eq's with the clipping light on each band, What kind do you guys recommend? money is a concern and its gotta be black Also where should the eq on my deck be set at when i get one 0 for bass and treble or -6 for bass and treble? I would also like it to be a min of 7 bands

hey i don't understand why visions in my town when running the speaker wire to the sub used 16 gauge and twirled it around it self so when i unwound it there was probably 7-9 ft just going to the box does twisting the wire do anything or are they just trying to charge for more wire ? I'm redoing it with 12 gauge it's only for a 600rms alpine amp so 12 gauge i figure is plenty

i dont get it. i was doin an install on my friends car and the speakers werent working. I decided to take my eD9.2 out of the car and and switch the pg out to see if i hooked everything up correctly. Everything was fine. Now here is the problem. Once i put everything back in to my car and hooked everything up, i found out that both my amps wouldnt turn on. i checked the fuses, all fine, all the connections, fine also. the HU works.... but it seems that my amps wont turn on. What the heck happened?

need like 2500w rms for the mt like 240ish (i guess?) @ 3 ohms for the pro60s. im most likely not gonna do rear fill, if i do, itll be off the HU. what you guys think? im tryin to get the amps ordered, so then i can start the box/amprack.

sooooo heres how the story goes. i got an amp a while ago, the crunch gp 2500d, and then i bought some subs, like the aq sdc 2.5s, but take a little more power (called TF X's if anyone is interested) both dual 4's wired down to 1 ohm at the amp. anyways, i'm underpowering them by a few hundred watts, and i'm looking for a replacement. in my searching i as offered an earthquake ph-d3 for a bit less than 300 rom a friend of mine, but i think he used to use it for spl comps a few years ago. anyways, the amp works great, and at 1 ohm does 3000 rms, so i figure if i'm easy with the gain i'll get the output i need, or i can match my current output at 4 ohms with 1300 rms. m…

I had blown one of my subs a few months ago so I unhooked everything and removed from vehicle. After doing some upgrades and getting new subs in, I finally reinstalled them yesterday. The problem I've ran into is that the amps aren't producing any sound. They power up and show that there on, but no sound. What voltage should the remote wire show? This is the only thing I can think of to check. I will say though that when I had a sub blow it blew the fuse between batteries and the amps where underpowered for awhile. Could this have caused internal problems? All help needed fast!!!

after buying these batteries i found out that they are 34M's and are "starting only". now does this matter? the MCA is 1000, CCA 800, AH 50, RC 100. Did i get ripped? (only paid 100 each) or are they good?

I have an 07 Dodge Ram 3500 Mega Cab My head unit is: - Kenwood KDC-BT852HD. Which is 50W x 4 In my front doors I have: - Alpine Type R SPR-69 speakers. Which is RMS 100w & Peak 300w In the rear doors I have: - Alpine Type R SPR-60 which is RMS 100w & Peak 300w For my sub I have: - Alpine Type R SWR-12D2 which is RMS 1000w and Peak 3000w Now I need help on choosing an amp to power everything and I`d like to get the most out of all 4 speakers and sub. I suppose I should get an Alpine amp? An all Alpine system? If not what other amps are good? Please list the model number or link to it Also I`m not sure if I should get one or two amps, one for the speakers and one f…

I am gonna be running 2 sets of kicker ks 6.5 component sets,i believe they are 100 watts rms.i am looking for a decent amp to run them,my budget is up to about 200$.any suggestions?

what should i set the Sub sonic at if its a 15" FI BTL Ported at about 33Hz ive heard 23 and ive heard 33.. and what the funk do i set the phase to? 0-180 degrees