Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Here is a video to show my new charging system. The main point of the video, which came to my surprise. But EVEN with a large electircal system, you still may not be supplying enough for your audio equipment. This was an interesting find for myself. At full tilt sort of speak, my vehicle, the vehicle itself, pulls right around 40 amps!!! That is HUGE! haha. That included, headlights which is H.I.D.s, which pulled 10 amps lol, Wiper Full blast, Front heat full blast, rear heat full blast, and interior lights on. So, let's just say I had an stock 80amp Alternator. That means 40 for the vehicle, and only 40 for the audio equipment. That is some huge information to know for y…

Ran across this on the eBay and thought it looked like a great buy, especially for someone looking for a simple all in one solution for an active setup. The Zapco I5100 is a seven channel amp that is rated for 50wrms x 4, 25wrms x 2 and 400wrms x 1 all @ 4 ohms. By bridging the 4 channel section you get a rated 175wrms x 2 plus the 25wrms x 2 and the 400wrms x 1 and the sub section is rated 600wrms x 1 @ 2 ohms. In my mind the 2 x 175 would be great for a mid, the 2 x 25 would be great for tweeters and the sub section great for many subs on the market. It seems like a fantastic solution to simplifying an active setup as far as the amplification is concerned and at …

Ok so I'm running two sundown sa12's vented at 38hz 2.0 cb per sub on a saz 1200d whats probably the lowest I could safely run my ssf?

Ok, I recently bought a blown sax 100.4 relatively cheap. I did not need it, but wanted to see if I can fix it. I know it needs new rca inputs as one is broken, but I believe it needs a mosfet (that is my guess I have yet to do any testing). Before I go any further where can I purchase amplifier parts from knowing that they are quality parts and exactly what I need. Again this is just something I have wanted to take a crack at for awhile and a lot of people probably think this is stupid, but I am hard headed and like to tear things apart and rebuild them. Lol

While looking around at H/U's Saw this on Chrutchfield. Looks pretty interesting. Opinions? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_333ASTRDSM/Parrot-ASTEROID-Smart.html

I have an xs d3400 and plan on getting another, my problem lies that my altenator has a run of 1/0 to the vehicle fuse/power distribution then charges the batter only after passing through a 140 amp fuse that bridges the battery connection to the altenator charging wire. I plan on running a SS Da Vinci for a 2 way 6.5 system up front and some 5 inch rear fill, and an old school SS tarantula. I will be using BLT4's, will the 140 amp fuse be enough to charge the batteries without blowing, also thinking about taking advantage of a MS-8 processor. please help thank you, also i will have two runs of 1/0 from batt to batt and batt to amp.

i have 2 batteries up front right now and plan to add some more wattage to my system. i am thinking of building a bracket ot hold a dedicated alt for 3 AGM's in the back and run 2 lead acid up front for the rest of the vehicle. however i wounder if this is necessary, is there a way to have 3 batteries in back and 2 in front with a single alt and have it setup for the stereo to only pull power from the rear battery bank and have no voltage drop/draw from the front 2 batteries for the rest of the car? i was thinking the only way to eliminate voltage drop to the factory electronics was to get a dedicated alternator and battery bank but i thought id ask here before installing…

I recently had a 3sixty.3 failure and decided I no longer wanted a separate processor. Now im looking into head-units that can give me what my 3sixty did. My setup consists of a set of rockford T5 comps and an Fi Q. When I had the 3sixty I Used my T400-4 to bi amp the T5 passive giving me a the ability to eq mids and tweeters seperatly. I realize that I may not need that and decided to bridge the amp and not bi amp anymore. So with that I need is a headunit with time alignment and a decent eq. The head unit I have in mind is the alpine cde-149bt; it does t/a but only gives a 9 band parametric eq. I guess my question is do you thing 9 bands will be enough?

I want to run a t2500 or a saz2500 in my truck...what kind of electrical would i need to run either of these amps?

So I recently traded a Kicker 350.4 for two Tang Band W6-1721 drivers and now I have a question. I have never thought of this before and don't remember seeing it done, but on a four channel 2 ohm stable amp could you run two channels at 4 ohms and the other two at 2 ohms? I want to have the Tang Bands up front with my Tantric 6.5 components and in the rear doors have a second set of Tantrics.

Hello Im knew to the forum and a newbie and need some help. I got all wires connected besides 3 on the Scosche harness(orange with black line saying dimmer ground)(black with silver line saying amplifier grond)(all black saying chassis ground) 2 on the Pioneer harness(blue with a white line silver spots with a tag saying system remote control)(black with silver spots,seems to be twice as long as the others) Do I twist all 3 wires from the Scosche harness to gether and hook it to the 1 long black with silver spots wire from the Pioneer harness? Is the blue wire with a white line silver spots with a tag saying system remote control for extern…

I picked up a new starting battery today. I replaced my old volcano type battery with a Diehard Gold AGM Group 34. I picked it up for 141.00, now down to 131.00. My research tells me that these are rebranded DEKA's, which should be good quality. It seems that Group 31's are the rule for battery banks, but I can't squeeze in three batteries. Would 3 diehard gold group 34's plus one up front be enough reserve for 5-5.5 kW? I know XS's are king, but I need to save where I can. I will also have a MECHman 220A installed as soon as I get in new battery terminals. P.S. Anyone have personal experience with diehard gold AGM's?

I am looking for specs on efficiency and THD for .5,1,2 ohm applications of the Q13500D.1, basscleff 5500, and sundown sa2 5000. while these manufactures list there 4Ohm and even 2 ohm on some, none of them seem to have any detailed specs on 1ohm loads and as for sundown i cant seem to find ANY specs to speak of on their website so im some what leery there. does anyone know that the exact THD, signal to noise, and efficiency is at 1ohm loads for these amps? thanks.

Has anyone on here ever used a computer as an audio processor? I want to have a rockford 3 sixty style audio processor in my truck and was thinking that i have spare computers and i have heard of people putting imacs in there cars in place of decks so that got me thinking into what expansion cards/audio programs are out there for such purposes? anyone have any thoughts?

I wanna run all soundigtial amps and I was wondering were I can get the amplifiers from. thanks a lot guys

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/4286673028.html I'm looking at amps that are being sold locally, and was wondering if this is a true 2k rms. If so, it's a steal for 160

I'm running a sundown sae1200v1 at 2ohms running voltage is 14.6 it dips down to 13.7-13.4... I'm running 1/0ga about 5 foot run its cca though all I had for ground was a chunk of 2ga it's about a foot long ran to the frame ... also got a 1/0 ga battery ground to the frame even went to a relay harness for the headlights

Just curious about this amp, I found it online, but not many reviews. It's also in the SSA store. Looks sick, but no reviews there either. Anyone heard one, seen one, smelled one, etc. lol.

I hardly ever see people using a few of the the xs d7500s in systems around 7k I always see people using a bunch of smaller batteries but would it be ok to use two of the 7500s and the biggest I can fit up front for a ct sounds 7000.1

I've got a 2002 Cummins and it has two sets of batterys under the hood and I was wondering could I just run two of the biggest kinetics up front and run my power wire from one of them back to my amp for about 5k I havemt decided yet but is that an option?

I have a 1998 Mitsubishi eclipse rs. Yesterday I tried taking out the stock head unit and putting in my Sony after market. I realized I messed up the the stock wiring harness. The wires no longer are plugged into the harness plug, just out hanging. I tried starting the car and the engine doesn't turn over all I get it a weird clicking sound coming from the dash. Battery is fully charged, lights work, heat/ac work. What could be wrong??

I would like to ask this question as a thought experiment to determine if I am properly understanding the following relationships with wiring and power. Our speakers get AC out of our amps and our amps get DC from our power system. The DC power does not have frequency as it is a single flowing direct current and as such the flow of electrons through any wire have ZERO skin effect as skin effect is only applicable with frequency of transmission. What does play a part in power capacity however is the material of which the wiring is made of and how it is made. The total measured DC resistance of a cable of X size will be lower in copper material than it wi…

i unplugged my sub yesterday and noticed that running my mids/high amps cause my lights to dimm very slightly when bass hits. when an amp draws power it is producing a spike draw on the entire vehicles system wich it is not designed for as there really is nothing else on a car that will pull such a bust draw outside of cranking. how common is it to see a slight dimming of lights on audio installs? i ask because to me it seems that with 2 large batteries and a HO alt i would expect not to see any dimming regardless of volume level. now the wiring is good and i am certain that all my grounds/contacts are properly terminated. i am looking more into this as I am planing to …

Taxes are just around the corner an I have an issue to solve.my current setup 2 icon d2's an bc2000 is sitting at .5 ohms.head was up my ass when ordering the subs.My question is do I get another bc2000 not strapped or get another amp with 2500 RMS at 2 ohms or close to it?

Hey guys, looking for a nice headunit for my 2005 Prius (don't judge) Looking to do a sub install soon enough as well. Any suggestons on a nice headunit? Budget around $150