Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hey I've got 2 12" ssd's to a 08kickerzx2500.1 with a Kinetik hc1400 in the back. The first 4 weeks I had the setup it was great, working to what I had expected. Some said they have never heard any cars around here get so low. (tuned to 33hz) Then...last week I turn my PAC bass knob all the way up and then I hear the bass cut off, I then turn down the knob and it comes right back on. I turn it back up and after like 30secs it will cut off and on. After a few days it seemed to me as it was a battery problem, like when it was turned up loud the batteries could not charge fast enough so it cut off. I took it to auto zone and they checked both batteries and they said the k…

Heres the deal. Ive got a 08 explorer and in this thing is a huge ass nav screen. I want an aftermarket HU (pioneer type) obvioulsy for the EQ options, . I thought of tearing out the nav screen and replacing it with the aftermarket, but, most pioneers (moderately priced up 500$) are single din. Which in turn would leave me with an ass ton of space. Two questions/two scenarios. 1.) If i were to rip out the nav screen is there anything i could get to take up the extra space. Ive looked for adapters and such, but, nothin.2.) If i were to keep the nav screen in and mount my HU somewhere else, how would i wire them so both are functioning? I would like them functioning conside…

ok i have had this amp hooked up before.i have a deka intimidator in the trunk and 2 100amp fuses going to the amp. it was a beast but one day the fuses poped randomly and i have no idea why. i bought new fuses and now it turns on for 5 seconds then the subs pop and it turns off... i have redone the grounds thinking that was the problem but it still does it idk what to do anyone can help me??? :/

Hey guys. Today I noticed a strange noise coming from the back of my Yukon. It sounded like digital fart through the woofers. So I decided to shut it down and go check things out. The first thing I noticed was that my ground wire was basically melting at the ground point. The sleeve for the ring terminal was melted along with about an inch of wire has turned the casing form clear gray to black.I have 4ga currently for the power run, amps, and ground, but plan to upgrade soon as the rest of my parts show up. There could be more wrong, but I am at work and this is the first thing I noticed. What has caused this? Was I just pulling too much current for 4ga or is it a bad gro…

Hey guys, i seem to be having a few problems with my system just a couple days ago and i was wondering if you guys have any idea of what might be going on before i go searching for the problem myself. I have 2 12" FI Qs running at 600 watts each, so an overall of 1200. Just a couple days ago i was testing a few songs on the system, nothing out of the ordinary, everything was working fine. I've has this system for about a month now and no problems occured till recently. Then a day went by where the car was idle, and then the day after that the car wouldn't start; the battery died. I couldn't figure out what happend because the car was completely off after the day i tested …

I want to install a processor, Have seen the 701 in action(didnt get much play time tho). I have not been able to screw around with a 360. Does anybody have any experience with these two units? I was leaning towards the alpine, mainly for the digital input. Is the digital that important, or not? Thanks for any help

Hello, i've installed my new(er) system the other day currently i have Optima Yellow top 2 SSA icons 12 2 Pheonix Gold Ryval 1000w 2 channel (each sub with their own bridged) 1 Pheonix Gold Ryval 1000w 4 channel 2 Kicker DS460 4x6 1 Pioneer DEH-P510UB Will be adding getting 2 Kicker 08KS6930 6x9 1 SoundStorm SX310 crossover if i'm not mistaken the crossover will prevent my mids and highs from "popping" and put a cleaner sound though, right? also is a sound processor needed? i have a decent amount of "road noise" coming though, just enough to bother me. will the processor fix all that? or will the crossover fix it?

I am working on a new system for my 350Z and was considering running active. I've never ran active before and have been reading around and have a decent idea of what to do, but I am stuck at what to use for processing. I have a double din sat nav puoneer hu and it doesn't have the ability to run acrive and I've noticed the MiniDSP and it's right in my price range. I've decided with the Mach 5 MLI 65's, I still need to measure for the tweeters, and for the amp I'm going to get the JL 300/4. Does this setup seem fine to run with the MiniDSP? Is it pretty complicated to set the MiniDSP through the computer? Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Basically, I am contemplating the carputer idea heavily and will be looking for ideas as far as EQing and setting the system up. I want it headunitless, so an external unit is needed. Is there something out that has all the features of an active type of headunit? (think TA etc...) Any ideas post them up, the carputer is only in the early stages but I will be putting everything together in pieces. Help me out here

Is a kicker kx3 a good crossover to use?

I have a Profike HA740 4 channel amp with Rockford fosgate components on the rear and two focal midrange on the front all at 4 ohms. Maxed the gains out to all four channels and I have no clipping or distortion. Checked it with a local shop and they said no clipping at all. Profile amps equal amazing. They are now out of business though:( Messed the title up, I meant HA740.

simple question... if i remove the cover on my amp so the guts are showing under the plexiglass, and mount a pair of fans similar to this: http://74.175.101.66/dealer/itemdesc.asp?C...amp;eq=&Tp= one per side pushing/pulling to create good cross ventilation, do you think it would be adequate? I think that i am going to hang onto my mtx a little longer since for the price i can't really beat it, and since i don't really like the looks i wanted to try exposing the board. how dramatically will this affect the amps cooling capabilities?

Hey guys! Ok, Im about to get two amps for my pickup (JL Audio Slash v2 300/2v2 & JL Audio G1700). I plan on putting them under my seats and both will be powered by 4 gauge cable. My question is this, what scenario would be better (electrically speaking only): 1. I run a 0 gauge from the battery into a distribution block with two 4 gauge outputs to my amps (all fuses will be properly placed). 2. I just run the two 4 gauge cables from my battery directly to the amps (all fuses will be properly placed).

so i have 2 1501d (04 models) an i want to strap them, i have the basic idea from reasearch that i did but i have never done it before. so i understand that the + from the speaker goes to the + of the master amp, an the -from the speaker goes to the + of the slave amp. my question is does the - from the master amp go to the - of the slave amp. also if im missing anything. thanks for your help

right now my battery is grounded to the front of the drivers side head (which is aluminum) i get a bit of noise every now and again through the front speakers and probably inaudibly through the woofers. the passenger side head is grounded to the chassis, above the motor. its all 4 gauge. i'll get a better ground by grounding the battery directly to the chassis right? then i just leave the head grounded above the engine the way it is? i know it needs to be bare metal, but can i just ground it anywhere thats metal on the body of my car, or does it need to be directly to the frame?

Hi, I'm sort of new to this, I searched the topic but didn't find what I was looking for so please be patient. I've been away from car audio for 7 or so years, a lot has changed and I would like to learn. I'm in the infancy of planning my stereo, I'm planning on running ~1500-2000watts RMS, the vehicle in question is a 1994 3/4 ton Suburban with a 454, 105 amp (I believe) alternator. I definitely plan to upgrade the battery and my ground and use 0 gauge wiring, what exactly do I look for in a battery and at my power levels would it be wise to run a second battery? Furthermore, how exactly does one wire a second battery? Should I upgrade my alternator as well? Or if it was…

I have a friend running a 300w PowerBass amp to a 10" powerbass sub in his single cab Ford Ranger. He called me the other day and said he was driving around town "bumping" and his sub randomly quit working. This kid knows little to nothing about car audio, so he calls me with his problems. I went and looked at his amp and sub too see if I could figure anything out. The sub felt warm, and the amp was REALLY hot. When I played music through the system, at a very low volume, (vol 1-3), sound came out fine.. but when it got above that, the protect light came on on the amp, and would burp random thumps (not from the music) about every 3-5 seconds. With the key turned to "On", …

So i was taking out the radio on my bosses truck and this is what i find..... ] That's one for GM, Chevy, Ford, Nissan, and VW lol

I have an older Rockford 1100@2 amp with a remote gain bass knob. The cable for the knob has long since disapeared. I have used a telephone cord in the past but not sure if I am getting all of the gain. The knob has 6 wires for the pot, whereas, the phone cord only has 4 wires in the connector. The knob is rated 0-18 db slope at 45 hertz. Any help is appreciated

Just asking if anyone has used a pure audio pa 3000.1d amp http://www.xplicitaudio.com/pure-audio-pa-3000-1d/ It looks nice but just seeing what people have to say about it, haven't found anything on it except for 2 reviews on their site

I have an alpine 9886 and pxa-h100 crossover. I've looked through the menus and don't see a bandpass option for an active mid range woofer. I looked around the Internet and didn't see anyone running active with this setup. Did I just not find what I was looking for? Or is it not capable? If it's not then pioneer p880prs here I come. Right now I'm using the passive crossovers with my focal 165a1's woofers in the stock location low in the doors and the tweeters mounted low on the pillars. And powering them with an alpine mrp-f250.

My Alpine PXE-H650 processor will not do a hard reset. According to alpine, I need to hold down the reset button for 10 seconds and it will do a factory reset. This does not happen with mine. I spoke with technical support twice today with no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a copy of the firmware for it? I really do not want to send my processor to them. Thanks!

so i was diggin around in the garage and found an old amp that my dad had for his car back in the day. and it says its a pyramid audio class a bridgeable amp. that is 200 watts x 2 channels. and im curious if anyone here has even used this amp before? its ancient lol but my dad said it worked when he used to. he just doesn't remember anything about it. anyone got any ideas about it or anything? specs i mean ANYTHING would be awesome, i was just gonna play around with it so i mean whatever lol thanks everyone (btw not trying to affend anyone saying its ancient im young but i still love you oldies ) Uploaded with ImageShack.us

should i set the amp and hu to match each other? ive heard of bypassing the amp's low pass crossover if thats even possible. any help would be appreciated.

Came in yesterday, thought I would share. W.W.