Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

well i was examining my alternator today, and this is the one im gonna send in for exessive amperage to mod. the area circled in red is the place where the wiring harnesses goes to connect to everywhere and it doesnt look like i can run 1/0 gauge, and if i keep the stock wire, for sure it will catch fire. Comments, ideas?

I have two questions... 1st. How do you set the time on this thing. I lost my book for it so Im a little lost. And 2nd. On the HU there is a subwoofer control thing. And the options are, Forward, Reverse, and Normal. What does that do and how would it affect the subs performance?

I was wondering if anyone on here uses or dislikes the powerbass xa3000 and if you use it did you have any problem with it. i already have an orion 2500d on my sub but i also have had this powerbass sitting in my room because it was in protect mode and a local repairer said he couldnt fix it. i just want to see if its worth fixing i only bought it for 150 bucks and would it be better than the 2500d?

I been skimming the forum trying to get an understanding on these things,but still dont get it. What purpose do a processor serve?and would i need one for my system

I was wondering if anyone knows what type of RCA's would work best for a Soundquebed 3500 amp? I was hearing about differential and coaxial type's is why. I know one type is twisted and the other is straight. Also,any brand inpatucliar would help.

I have a pretty simple question regarding use of the remote gain knob for my SAX-1200D. Say I turn the gain on my amp all the way up to max. Obviously not recommended. However, if my remote gain is only set to... lets say 1/4 of the way up, would my sub still be at risk of high clipping and bad distortion ? From what I've read, the remote gain is just what it's name implies, a quick and easy way to turn up or down the gain without having to fiddle with the amp itself. So if that's the case, even if the amps gain is set to max but the remote only 1/4 the way up, it should be the same as running the amp itself at 1/4 gain, correct ? Now I've been testing this out la…

I have a power acoustik vu560-4x. Back in high school was being dumb when hooking it up and crossed a wire or two and basically it went up in smoke. Basically determined the problem to be 3 of these mosfets. Just wondering how hard it would be to replace these. Would it be just some simple soldering? I figure the 5 bucks it would cost would be worth the try for a highs amp.

Hey all.Was just wondering if my amp (the one mentioned in the title) is able to be daisy-chanied with another Autotek Street Machine 1500 watt amp.Thanks

Well im almost done with my Bravox components install and I was wonderin, could I just hook those up to 2 of the channels and not use the rear. No bridging... just using the 2 channels alone. I just want to hear them before I install my rear. Thanks.

Hey all.Im going to be getting an AQ2200 amp soon and I was told I need to get another battery.I kinda figured I would need another battery but Im worried my alternator wont be able to keep up.As it is right now my head lights and other lights dimm when I have my music up with a autotek 1500 watt amp.My car is a 1977 Oldsmoblie Delta 88.The alternator is a remanufactured one and I have no clue how many amps it is putting out.I know the alternator isn't that old.So my question is if I put another battery and a AQ2200 amp in will the alternator handle it or will I need another one or what?I haven't done the big 3 yet as im not enterly sure of what it consists of but I know …

My HU has Front and Rear RCA outputs. If running front stage only, should I combine the front and rear outputs going to my external amp with a Y-adapter or should I just use the front RCA's alone?

I have an older Rockford Fosgate 500.2 unit and I had some questions about setting the gain. Everything I have read shows to take the RMS wattage X the ohm then get the square root of that. My only problem is since my amp is technically a 2 channel I am wondering how I do this with it in bridged mode. That wouldn't normally be an issue aside from the fact that this amp also has a left and a right gain control. Now the amp is 500 RMS x 1 at 4 ohm bridged OR 125 x 2 @4ohm stereo. How would I go about using a DMM to set these gains as close to perfect as possible?

I have read the amp setting tutorial on CA.com and it says to play a 60hz tone and set your gains to the AC voltage for your RMS. My question is wouldn't it be better to set the gains based on your box tuning because the amp puts out more power near box tuning to avoid clipping or would you still use a 60 hz tone? Like my box is tuned to 40 hz wouldn' it be better to tune my system with a 40hz test tone? Correct me if I am wrong, please and since I listen to rap I should use a -3db tone right? And just wondering does anybody know what db tones are used on Bass Mekanik Quad Maximus? Could I use that to set my gains safely?

Alright, So I Just ordered a kinetik hc1400 gettin here monday which I am going to be putting up front in my car, and I already have a kinetik hc600 in my back near amp. Well I was thinking I would like to add a huge battery in the back to replace the 600.. I was thinking maybe a hc2400 just to have tons of juice and I figure you can never have too much... But then I was like crap Idk if my stock alt can handle charging batteries of this size ( a hc1400 up front + 2400 in back ) So i wanted to see if anyone could help with all you guys experience with tons of batts and alts. Right now I have a 97 honda civic hb, stock alt (65-70amp I believe..) I have the big 3 done alrea…

Just wondering, when connecting from engine block to chassis ground, can I mount from the air compressor bolt to chassis ground? the air compressor is all metal, so i assume its grounded, since it lays on top of the engine. thanks in advance

Someone told me that one of the usamps line of amplifiers lie about there actual wattage they are putting out. is this true, if so which series of there amplifier is this?

Hey guys. I have 4 D1 coil subs and I want to wire to a final load of 2 ohm. Here is that: What a mess!!! My question is can I wire 2 pair like so at 4 ohm and run each to the amps bringing the final load to 2 ohm final? This option would allow me to run heaver ga wire and make wiring much easier. My amps manual says to run master positive to sub positive and slave positive to sub negative with a jumper wire running from master negative to slave negative. My 2 D1 subs are currently wired like so using all 4 speaker inputs on the amp to bring the load to 1 ohm. Let me know if I am not being clear about something and Thanks in advance for any help!

What do you use to islolate the front & rear battery??? ...should I use a battery isolator; or, will a high power relay work ok?

hello all, i have some questions regarding alt power. I currently have a 270a mechman, now my first question is do they have to be the same amprage, or can the other one be bigger or smaller? Second is do they have to be the same brand? Like can i use my stock 136a alt or a dc alt with mine or singer alt ? Would all that extra power mess with trucks electrical (05 dodge ram 4.7 ltr v8). If so, how would i be able to add another alt Have some voltage drop from 14.1 (when first starting truck) down to 12.1 at full tilt, running 2 crescendo bc3500s to 2 btls dual 2 ohms wired to 2 ohms and 1100.4, 3 runs of cca 0 ga positive and 3 negative to 5 interstate workoholic batter…

do you think the US AMPS xt4000d is a good amp for a fully loaded 1 ohm 18 FI bl?

Well, I have all the speakers that are going in my truck, however, I lack the power to get them up and running. I came across a thread over on CA.com that linked me to a memphis amp called the "mch1300". I don't know much about memphis products, but that's beside the point. My question is this, instead of having to buy a lot of amps will this power the following: 2 image dnymaic cx62's @ 2ohm so they should get 115 watts, 2 koda 8's they are 4ohm so they should get 75 watts, and a eclipse ti, it's DVC 4ohm so it should recieve 600 watts. Is this correct? That would mean I would just need to get an amp for my horns and I'd be set. Also the kodas, really won't be get…

Serious issue going on with my system, and I know it's gotta be my electrical..... just need some advice on where to go. I've only had my system in since April, and I've noticed at times that my front stage will suddenly begin losing treble, then volume. I turn it down and it recovers pretty quickly, within a minute..... but will do it again if turned back up. I have not upgraded the electric at all.... was hoping I wouldn't need to being that I'm not pushing a lot of wattage. Amp is a Kenwwod7005PS 5 channel..... manual says it pulls 56 amps. I'm guessing my Scion xB 80 amp alt just isn't enough...... but would doing a big 3 help this??? (I have some 4 ga left over from …

Fi Q 15 Cadence zrs 7000d at 1 ohm, specs below: 4 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 500 Watts @ 13.8 Volts 2 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 900 Watts @ 13.8 Volts 1 Ohm RMS Power: 1 x 1300 Watts @ 13.8 Volts IHF-2002 Peak Power: 1 x 2600 Watts Max @ 1 ohm Two Z7000D bridged together - 1x 2600 Watts RMS @ 2 ohm Frequency Response: 10Hz - 400Hz S/N Ratio: >100 db Damping Factor: 100 @ 100Hz Minimum THD: <0.03% Input Voltage: 200 mV - 8 Volts Dimensions: 12.6" x 9.4" x 2.4" Stock alternator (150amp) and battery I had this system setup with no big-3 and stock alt and battery for about a month before the battery started showing white corrosion on the terminals as if it were over heating…

Does anyone have exp with PPI's PCX-4125? There is a pretty good deal on ebay right now for one and it would fit my needs pretty well for powering both my kodas and ID's cx62's. Any comments, thoughts about the amp? Just wondering if I should snag one or look elsewhere. thx

doing some rewiring my subs and remember seeing on a bunch of builds that people use nuts and bolts so they can wire up and wire down through their box (wire from sub +s and -s to bolt going through wood and then from the out side of box wiring from bolt to amp) So my question is what kind of metel should the nuts and bolts be... i have nuts and bolts made from zinc, would those be ok to use or should i use somthing different like brass or iron ???????? ------- Wiring down to .5 ohms for spl and up to 2 ohms for street beat Thank you guys for any and all help