Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Alright, so i'm going to be ordering two 12" 2 ohm DVC RL-ps soon. Any suggestions on an amp to run them with? I would like to run them at around 700-800 watts each.

Hey guys... I'm about to do the big 3 in my pontaic g8 and the batter is in the truck.. The alt positive is no problem but I'm trying to work out the engine block ground..... What are my options without putting the wire under the car..... Can I ground the block to the chassis and double up on the chassis grounding points near the battery?

Hey everyone, Got a question. Are Power Acoustik amps any good? One on dealer cost car audio pretty cheap. Opinions please....

Hey, Recently my MB Quart DSC4125 bit the dust and waiting to see if it can be fixed under warranty. Anyways, I have an 8" orphan from Sound Splinter and was wondering what Amp would be good to run it? Either Mono(for sub) and a 2channel to run a pair of Infinity Kappa 682.9cf's or a 4 channel amp again so i can run the sub along with the speakers. Having a hard time finding an amp for a 6ohm woofer that's sweet spot is at 500W. As for budget, not looking to get crazy expensive, say if possible around $300. Just need to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks.

Well, I have all the speakers that are going in my truck, however, I lack the power to get them up and running. I came across a thread over on CA.com that linked me to a memphis amp called the "mch1300". I don't know much about memphis products, but that's beside the point. My question is this, instead of having to buy a lot of amps will this power the following: 2 image dnymaic cx62's @ 2ohm so they should get 115 watts, 2 koda 8's they are 4ohm so they should get 75 watts, and a eclipse ti, it's DVC 4ohm so it should recieve 600 watts. Is this correct? That would mean I would just need to get an amp for my horns and I'd be set. Also the kodas, really won't be get…

This is my first time messing with the GM Data system as my older tahoe didn't have it. I don't care about keeping satellite radio, onstar, or the bose system. I DO want to retain warning chimes, retained accessory power, and steering wheel controls. I'm installing aftermarket head unit, amps, etc. I am looking at either the PAC RP3-GM11 and PAC SWI-RC(~$120), or Metra BX-GM1 and Metra ASWC-1(~$90). Of course saving money is nice, but I don't want to have any integration issues. Just hoping someone has used one or the other, or both, and knows if there are any known issues. Edit: I suppose I should mention I am working on a 2005 silverado.

Thinking about upgrading my head unit to something that is ipod friendly with good sound quality and high pre-amp volts. Eclipse Cd 5030, Jvc Kdr 900, Clarion Dxz 785 are some of my choices, my brother say i cant go wrong with the eclipse, suggestions and opinions will help very much. Thanks alot!!!!!

I have a Soundstream TRX 2.550 and I need to properly set the gains for my subs. I checked the sticky in this section and it says to use the frequency that the bass boosts uses. My boost is +18 from 35-80hz. So what tone should I use?? I wish I didn't have to use the Bass boost knob but I have no other way to turn the subwoofer level down as I am on a factory stereo. If I turn the bass down on the factory stereo it turns the bass down for all speakers making it sound bad. Thanks

Does it really matter what RCA cables you use from your headunit to your amp?

Hi guyz, Thought I would share this. BRAX from Germany, HELIX Big brother company has/will release.d a new amp. If I understand correctly, it will be a power amp: No Crossover. A german magazine has tested one; specs as follow: MATRIX X4 @13,8V: 4x292rms @4ohm (drawing 136A) 4x270rms @2ohm (143A) 4x284rms @1ohm (186A) Damping factor: 694 @100hz 592 @30hz Size: 330mm x 75mm x 330mm Which is around 13" x 2.95" x 13" (tiny isn't it?) Price: Well it's a BRAX...

so i see alot of people selling used batteries , capacitors, and batt-caps ect. (batteries are what im interested in) and i always thought that batteries and what not lose charge, voltage go dead or what ever you what to call it over time. so can you just keep them charged and they last forever? as always im lost lol

Just like the title says. If my woofer can handle more that what my amp can throw at it, how would I go about setting my gain to absolute max without clipping? If you say you can hear it then please record me a sample and send it to me so I can hear it for sure. Thanks jerry

whats the opinions on the newer MB Quart amps. i know galamonkey uses them and ive seen alot of others with them. Im wondering if they share the same boards as the autotek mean machines. they seem very similar, especially being that they are both crappsonics brands. they are tempting bc you know the name used to be good and you can get them for so cheap on ebay.

I have an amp with the following specs: 2 x 75 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms 2 x 150 Watts Max at 4 Ohms 1 x 300 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged 2 x 125 Watts at 2 Ohms Electronic Crossover Network Bass Boost Circuit 2 Ohm Stereo Stable Tri-Mode Capable Gold RCA Inputs Power & Protection LED Indicators Advanced Protection Circuitry Soft Turn On/Off VU Meter Thermometer Frequency Response: 15 Hz-35 kHz S/N Ratio: 90 dB I know its not the best of specs in the world, but it is all I have right now so I want to make this work. I got a TC-1000 12" DVC 4ohm, so if I bridge the amp that is a 2ohm load on the amp. My amp says its only 2ohm Stereo stable, so I was thinking…

The local Circuit City is going out of business, they have all their car audio stuff marked down 40%. They've got a few Kicker ZX750.1 amps, originally $500..... and you math wizards have already figured out that they are now only $300. Rated at 750rms at 2 ohms, are they stable into a lower load? Like 1.6 (5 Dual 4ohm coil subs in series/parallel? 1.33 (3 4ohm subs in parallel)? Do they put out more than their rated power?

looking to put a clean sounding (sq) system in a nissan senta. I do not want to upgrade the alternator. Any on a amplifier suggestions in the $500 range. if it costs a little more that is fine also.

Which one would be the better choice. I have my DEI 1100D at ikessound and they are waiting for a new shipment of refurbs, Dustin offered me a PPI 1000.1 as a replacement.

If I had a 15" Icon and a 1000 watt amp would I need to get a new battery under the hood, do the big 3 or get a new alternator in a 2004+ Explorer or a 2001+ Tahoe? What about 1500 watts?

Driving a 03' bmw 325i sedan, have a JVC KD-AVx77 and it doesn't fit. The dash kit I purchased doesn't even fit it. I also think that the panel that goes over the dash kit doesnt even fit the unit either. Anyone know what I can do? Am I going to have to customize it?

Alright guys I know this kind of question has been asked before but I just wanted to make sure what will be right for me. I already tried searching for a long time but haven't really found my answer. So I just bought a SAZ-2000D from Mark for my subs and I already have a JBL 4 channel amp for my mids and highs. So what I am trying to figure out is if I should upgrade my alt or just get a second battery. I already have a yellow top upfront and I have the factory 145 amp alt. My system would be around 2500 watts but judging by how the SAZ-2000D did on Jacob's clamp test I'm guessing my system will be close to 3000 watts. I have about 400 dollars left to spend on electrical…

Right now I'm powering my 12" Treo SX with a RD 1750.1 wired to .5 ohms. Not sure exactly how many watts I'm getting taking effieciency, ohm rise and other things into consideration but overall I'm happy with its output. Was just curious though...given everything is the same other than switching out the RD with a Sundown 2500 wired to .5 ohms (sub is dual 1 so I'm looking at .5 or 2 ohm options) how much of a difference could I be looking at? The pre sale for the sundowns looks like an amazing price and honestly I'm considering picking one up.

I took my bmw to a local install shop here in Atlanta.... I had them make me a sealed box for my 2 15's. Solobaric l7's to be exact(dual 4 ohm)..... i dropped my car off and left.... When I returned everything was done! EXCEPT! I have a o guage kicker wiring kit and they told me 0 guage wouldnt be necessary so i said ok we'll see what happens first... i told them i wanted to use the 300a kicker fuse though.... I returned and all my settings were turned up... the sub on the radio was at 15/15 the highest it would go..... the bass was at its highest level and the gain was more then 75% up..... they told me......" we've been playing it hard for the last hour trying to break …

need like 2500w rms for the mt like 240ish (i guess?) @ 3 ohms for the pro60s. im most likely not gonna do rear fill, if i do, itll be off the HU. what you guys think? im tryin to get the amps ordered, so then i can start the box/amprack.

hey maybe you guys can answer this. i have a SS labs 2 farad cap. i have lost the dang resistor to sucessfully charge this thing without it blowing up in my face. any clues? i know i can get resistors at radio hack but i don't know what the value was i dont have any paper on it and its 3 years old so i cant even find it online anymore.

Like the title states. I need an amp to power 1 incriminator audio lethal injection DVC 4 ohm sub 600rms. I want something that's reputable and not something that is going to take a crap like that China stuff (no offense). Brand/ model names would be great, I know this isn't the 4 sale section but if you're selling something that's good and suites my needs, PM me with price, brand/model name, and condition THNX to all