Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I was wondering if I needed to solder the ends of my power wire(1/0 knuconcepts) before i put it into my amps. Same goes for the speaker wire going to my sub and speakers. Also, can i just get a cheap battery powered soldering iron, or do i have to get a nicer one? thanks.

im having a little problem with my amp. right now i have a sundown saz-2000d hooked up to two 18" dc xl's at .5 ohms until i can afford a better amp and get more batteries to support the extra power. but so far the amp is doing alright except at times the amp will go into protect only when i turn it up. it doesnt happen all the time and whenever it happens its random, meaning it sometimes will go into protect the moment the bass hits when turned up or sometimes after a whole song has played through full tilt. right now my electrical is a 250 amp alt with the big 3 done in 1/0 gauge wire and an xs power d3400 under the hood with a d3100d in the back all with 1/0 gauge wire…

Hey guys, new to the forum. I'm working on a project right now, and I'm in need of some information on relays. From what I have seen, though i may be wrong, a generic relay that can just handle, say, .3-2v, is not suitable for line level audio because of signal degredation. Is this true, and if so, are there any relays out there that can handle line level audio without perceptable loss in quality? What I'm looking to set up is an add-on to my OnStar interface. I want to set up a 6-channel relay interface box with a two-channel input from the OnStar interface and a 6-channel input from my headunit, then 6-channel output going to the amps. Normally, it would come from the …

i got my box built, needs finishing braces and covering. But, now i have no place for my amps. I have searched and read couple post that say it is ok, and some that say it is not. If I just double the sides of the box and mount my amps on the side, will they be ok? I have enough room if I mount my 1500d's end to end and then my 100.4 on the other side. I can mount them on my back seat, but the seat wont be able to fold up. Pic of where box sits now:

Not sure if I should I get the battery for the front or should I go with the larger ah one in the back.

I have two kicker comp q 12’s dual 4ohm and looking at two different amps , the kicker cxa 1800.1 and the D’Amore engineering E1500.1 . Love the idea of the E1500 but I feel like the kicker would be better power wise just not sure .

Alright i'm running 4 Dual 4 ohm speakers aiming for 2 ohms. Theory #1: Wire two subs in parallel separate (yeilds 2ohms a sub). Then wire these together in parallel yeilding 1 ohm total for 2 speakers. Then, wire the other two subs the exact same way yeilding two sets of speakers ran down to 1 ohm per set. Now im running one amp. Then run these two sets together in series on the amp yeilding 2 ohms. Only question, wouldn't this i swap the polarity in one set of the speakers??????? Theory #2: Run each sub in series (yeildin 8 ohms a sub). Then run all of the subs in parallel at the amp. Yeilding 2 ohms. I think this is the correct way!! Im going to finish my box tom …

I'm adding a second battery and want/need to get a battery isolator. The battery is an XS XP750 AGM Battery Power Cell and I'm getting it because I have a 160 amp alternator, NVX JAD 800.4 and Rockford Fosgate T-1500bd. That RF amp pulls 180 amps max (I don't typically listen to sine waves) so I need a 200 amp isolator, correct? Would there be any harm getting the 500 amp isolator because (believe it or not) I can find them cheaper (and in stock) than the 200 amp models.

I bought a DC Power 250xp alt over a year ago for my 2011 Malibu. Been sitting in the garage ever since. I've found out my vehicle is PCM controlled. Is there going to be any kind of upgrade installing this thing? Did I waste $650 by not doing my homework? My system isn't anything huge but I have a 2nd battery in the back that doesn't seem to be keeping voltage up. As far as amps a sundown 1500 and a fosgate t400.4. I tried listing the alt for sale but no bites. Basically should I even bother installing this thing? DC quoted $130 to recase this. Maybe recase for my 03 Tahoe (if its not PCM controlled?)

IS 389 from an authorized dealer a good price on this thing? Actually, is it a great price? If it is an awesome price I might have to pick it up, but if its just a pretty good price then I think i'll pass. The reason is, I would have to call my godfather and he's in Italy. He'll get it for me for a bday present probably, but I dont want to bother him over an ok deal.

Alright, I need to go 4-way active with 2 sets bandpassed... I thought my only option was to run a crossover, I didn't realize the SX Kicker amps are bandpassable on every channel? So I can run 2 SX900.4 with the remote instead?!?! Please help! Thank you! Jordan Crossovers 10Hz – 16kHz variable HP frequency adjustable in 1/12th octave steps 30Hz – 20kHz variable LP frequency adjustable in 1/12th octave steps 6 – 36dB/octave variable crossover slopes (up to 48dB/octave on the 650.1) HP, BP, and LP on every channel http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-product-reviews/6375-running-active-setup-using-kicker-sx-amps-dsp.html

My amp cuts on with only the remote wire hooked up to it why? and when i hook the power and ground wire up it wont power my speakers.

Hey, I was just looking for some input on which car battery I should purchase for my 2000 GMC safari van. I plan on running 2 18" Fi Q series off of 2 apline pdx 1000.1's also a alpine for my highs and mids. I have already purchased a xsatic 400 series batcat for the rear and wanted some help on picking a battery for up front to replace the stock one. I am running 0awg power and ground wire from the front battery to the rear also am planning on doing the BIG3 but dont really know how to upgrade the alt. wire to 0awg, anyhow i dont plan on upgrading the alt right away maybe down the road so I need a battery that can be ran off the stock alt. I have looked at the optima…

Does anyone have any reviews or info? Im thinking of trading my JL 1000/1 for a 1400d.

ok i'm guessing i can buy it for 400$ the 4000watt one. but is it worth it? i mean how many watts am i going to get out of this thing? If i get this i will have to wait and sell my amp before i even get one of my 18's. So is it worth it?

Hey guys I’m new to this forum but I will just get straight too it I have 2 svr12s from Skar and the rp1500 from Skar too it’s rated for 1500rms and 2300max I have my system wired at 1 ohm as it recommends and have done the the big three and have a 200amp high output alternator and a dual battery setup with 0awg going from the front battery to the back battery and I’m still having a bad voltage drop when I play music wondering what else I could do to fix it, it will drop down to 12.4v and will slowly get lower if I’m playing a continuous bass type of song and it’s an older car 1989 cutlass Calais idk if that would anything to do with it any thank you

Alright, I'm in a 99 xplorer and hookin up in that group buy for 2 12" Rl-p D2 and I'm goin with a LSQ system with a ported box, any thoughts on what amp/s i should go with to make this system nice. I'm not lookin to spend a chit load of money kinsiderin I gotta raise the finances to pay my truck off while I'm buyin this system. Truck cost: 6000 Sub cost: 450 Amp cost: hopefully not more then 300

and man was it a pain in the ass but for $110 brand new I cant really complain. Well my old battery went out on me cuz it was some crappy energizer battery and it was under full trade in warranty sooooo I pulled it out jumped in my dads lil 86 civic and rolled away got there and asked if I could upgrade the energizer for the optima at a discount. They told me I could get full value for the energizer applied to the optima yellowcap ($80) plus I got another $10 off because they price matched checker auto =). So I got the battery took it home and this is where the trouble started... I plopped it into its place and tried to through the stock terminal connections on there... y…

We came across a Crunch 1500 watt Power Zone amplifier, P1500.1. it will power up and play music.......... as long as there is some pressure on one of the adjustment knobs..... Take away the pressure and the music output stops. The "Low Pass" filter knob is missing , once the amp is opened up, you see that the whole little box has been removed. so first question is ; can I purchase and install this box ? like is that i DIY type project? second question ; is there any home remedies for the pressure issue? anothere DIY project. If need be, I will send it in and get it fixed, but was hoping to do it cheap, in house. thanks for the input, chop IAK

Anyone know the best place to get some 0 gauge wire for the lowest price?

I need some input from anybody that might know, I purchased an aftermarket alternator for my 2009 dodge ram 5.7. I sold the truck and now I have a 2012 dodge ram 5.7. My question for anyone who knows is; will the electrical system of the new ram (2012) handle the aperage and extra voltage (300 amps @ 15.3 volts) ? Also, I got the self excite module to boost voltage to 15.3 volts. This will be the only alternator in the truck. Thanks for any help!

Hey I notice Ppl using 2 2/0 for There ground Could you explain to me why so much for the ground and where you would put yours at on your ground because I was planning on using 4 gauge on Body (A) > Head (B) > Coil Pack © > Battery Negative (D) > Body (E) And was going to use 0 gauge for battery negative - body But why would you use so big wire on the ground? I was told the car for the ground needs some sort or resistance for the computer to know, but 2/0 is bigger then 0 gauge. If i decided to do 0 gauge will I be ok you think Here is a site that does my old car grounding its similar to the same identical to my new car for what I am about to do. http://www.s…

Anybody have any experience with these VMAX Charge Tanks - Audio ? Local audio shop said they have been approached to carry the line.

so damping factor as i understand it is the ability to control the sub once it starts playing something, to keep its movement in check. i see numbers all over the board between amp manufactures so I'm lead to believe its kinda like contrast ratios on TV's where there isn't an industry standard to measure by, is that correct? at my work training i have been told that you want at least 500 damping factory to be effective an controlling any speaker over 10" in size but this dosent make sense to me and given its coming from a rep of a company that lists all their amps around 500 damping... well... can anyone lay this out a bit simpler or provide some "trusted" literatur…

I am wanting to put an aftermarket DVD player in my 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 ext cab. I have factory onstar and xm and want to keep both. I know that I have to get an adapter like this http://www.logjamelectronics.com/pacos2.html in order for it to work. What can I get to in order to retain the factory XM radio? I also have settering wheel controls. I know for the steering wheel controls I have to get a PAC unit in order for them to work.