Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

a friend of mine keeps going on about this company so I looked into it and found a D3500.1 for a reasonable price but the guts didn't look too smashing are they really that good?

i just ordered a rl-i10 and was wondering what a good amp would be for it. maybe one i can use if i decide to get another 10 later on. its a dual 4ohm

On my T1500, I'm wondering if I should leave the Infrasonic Filter on or off. It came from the factory with it off, I can't tell much of a difference with it on. Right now I've got the frequency set at around 110. I've heard everyone say to set it around 80, and it does sound a little deeper there, but on some songs, "Late Night Tip" mainly, there are some bass notes that are left out with it at 80. With it set a little higher, I can hear everything. I've got the gain set at 5, and the Punch EQ set around half way. Anyone think I should change anything? Just figured I would see what everyone's opinion is.

at what frequency is the subsonic filter for the audiocontrol epicenter i know that the soundstream and others have it at 35hz, but i dont know the audiocontrol subsonic filter i want to buy one, but my box is tuned to 32hz

who make a bass processor like the basscube

I got one..dont have manual and its several years old...not sure how the input section is setup any idea? it has switch for 2 or 4 or 5 channel discrete

Needs to have gps navigation, touch screen, and a good set of features. Budget is around $1200. Fire away.

Its time for me to install all my gear, ive installed few HU's here and there but never a full system consisting of multiple amps, subs, rear battery, and components. I was told to run a line of 1/0 from the front to the rear + batt terminal, and ground to the chassis of my car. Fuse few inches from front + batt. terminal. For the rear battery, do I fuse inches before the rear battery? How big of ANL fuses should I use, I will have 170 amp fuses in total from my amps, so maybe 200 ANL fuses will be good? Then from the rear battery, ill be running some 1/0 gauge to a dsitro block and will give me 2, 4 gauge outputs that I will connect to my amps, (AQ 1200d, and Kenwood KA…

I have a jl 500/1 gains are supposed to be set at 31.6 v ac. I have tried two different decks at 3/4 volume with bass flat and with the gain turned all the way down Im getting 40 volts using 50hz signal at 0db. the sub 12w6 sounds loud with the test cd but barely audible with music. Is there anything obvious to look for? thanks Todd

To fill you in...I'm stationed in Japan and have a 1996 Honda Orthia wagon (equivalent to a Civic or CRX). The battery is very small! My alternator is factory. I've done the Big 3. I have a Panasonic CQDFX85 head unit, (2) RE Audio 6.5 two-way speakers powered by a US Amps USA-50 and a 10" MB Quart DWE-254 sub powered by a US Amps USA-100. My lights don't dim when listening to music. They start to dim when I'm sitting at a light and I click my window button up. I'm going to replace my MB Quart with a RE Audio 10" SE10D2 and use a US Amps USA-150X to power it. I know this will probably cause my lights to dim alot! I've had a US Amps Optimizer sitting in my closet for 6 yrs…

Has anybody used this amp or heard a setup using it?want to put it with a 15"fully loaded btl..

Ok here we i just bought the mach5 6.5 i bought a saz 3000 and a 18btl with an enclosure design by hexibase. Now my question is what would be a good amp to push the 6.5 i know the saz 100.4 but my budget is getting low so any other sugestion thanks.

What reasonably priced options are there for something that will run all day at .67 ohms? Been thinking about a couple of SAZ1500's.... and yes, a 200+amp alt and second battery are planned.

Hi- Does anyone know of some good active crossovers that have bandpass options? All of the ones I've been looking at only do high pass and have a subwoofer output. I really need one that can do a bandpass 50 hz to 2.5 khz, or just a 2.5 khz low pass for my mids. Then a 2.5 khz high pass for the tweeters. Obviously the high pass isn't hard to find but for some reason the low pass is... Any suggestions? Budget is maxed out at around $150. Any other info required just ask and I'll let you know. Thanks!

I've been searching around for some 3/0 lugs for my electrical upgrade. I really prefer using the split barrel over the solid like most of what you see. Like this: I found some on amazon for $2 each. I know I can use the solid barrel but they all seem so damn bulky. Well, not that 3/0 isn't bulky anyway but I'm not trying to have a huge stack of crap on all my connections either. Nor am I trying to spend $100 on some terminals. Anyone have any good reliable sources to look at? Any suggestions? I'm not totally against using the solid barrel lugs if they are fairly compact. Usually I use something like the Knu terminals and call it a day but they don't offe…

i want to meter my car but everyone i hear about with a meter shits out on me when its time to meet up.... so i wanna buy an epic 160 to meter only... nothing else... has anyone used these? how accurate are they to a term lab? can i use this meter to learn my sweet spot ?

When connecting the batt under the hood to the batt in the back does a fuse need to be used in the power wire or can you just connect front batt to the rear batt?

I am going to actually use a dimm for once....easy enough looks like.....but the mini has a few more controls than most amps I have run.... any pointers on what to set the amp at? test tone recomendation or is 50 good enough?

I have a XS Power D3400 as my starting battery mounted in the engine compartment and an axuiliry D3400 mounted in my trunk. The batteries are wired in parallel with no isolator/relay. I have an alternator on order from DC Power but I have yet to receive it. My stock alternator is 90 amps. My system draw can be over 100 amps but I have it tuned down for now. I monitor my voltage which stays above 13.3 volts, worse case with engine running. I am concerned that I will damage my stock alternator and XS Power batteries with my system demands. I am getting more and more ticked that it is taking DC Power over 4 months to get me my alternator and I still do not know when I will h…

I was offered this amp in a trade for my RE comps I have F/S. What are your thoughts on this amp? Thx, Vic.

Would lets just say 1000 watts on 2 ohms be the same electrical strain as 1000 watts on 1 ohm?

The car is a Mercedes CLK55 2001, I have 2 amps 1 is 300 watts(150x2@4ohm), one is 1300 watts (1x1300@1ohm). For a total of 1600 watts. I have a Kinetik Power HC1800 as a second battery witch is to NOT let the lights dim if the system is under 1800 watts, unfortunately it does dim in the cabin and the amp for my front speakers sorta cuts out at loud volumes. once when i went from drive to reverse it didn't engauge and i had to put it in drive lower my system and put it in reverse, this has only happened once and i was beating really hard (i have not tried this again nor do i want to). I had a lexus 2002 ES300 before this and i did not have this problem, same setup. The 2n…

I hooked my amplifier after having it sit in my room for a couple months up to my car today and the protection light came on for a split second, then the green light came on after 15 secs or so of no light at all. It was hella wierd. I tryed it again, and now the red light blinks for a split second but then no lights at all. I can hear the amp turn on, but it has no light or power. I opened it up and didnt see any physical problems with the board (blown fuses, smell, etc...) Any ideas what it might be? Im positive it has nothing to do with RCA's or speaker wire. I know for a fact it is something to do with the Amplifier. Its a Power Acoustik 1.4000D Please no smart comm…

i need help picking out a amp a 2000 watt should lanzar be good for my 2 rlp 12" sound splinter

Where can I get one and how much are they?