Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Right now my setup is(see sig) and I have BAD voltage problems. I believe my problem is that I have a 2ga wire from the front battery to the back(came with the car,to lazy to change it) where I branched 3 runs of 4ga wire off it to my 3 amps. Now I was wondering if I ran 1 or 2 runs of 1/0ga from the front to the back would that cure my problem?

Well im looking to get a new HU since the cda-9813 i bought in the classifieds section doesnt play cds. ive been looking at the cda-105 but would like to get some of yalls input. would like to stay below 250

i hav an install 2 weeks from tomorrow and was wonder what is a good amp for two alpine sws 12d2. i need find a recommended amp for them since i ran them on a crescendo bc2000d with gains half way. thanks to all that can recommend me one. budget for amp is 150 to 250 dollars tops 300

I ordered my 270 amp alternator from Dc Power Engineering on 12/18/09. They got my payment and I have yet to receive any information. I've called them and left messages with no avail. For the people who bought alternators from Dc Power Engineering how long has it taken to get a shipped notification? It's been almost two weeks and I'd like to get it in (Who wouldn't?). At first their customer service was Grade A but now i'm starting to see its not as great as i thought. They say they'll return calls and such. Even if they didn't have any information on it it would be nice for them to call and simply say "we don't have any information". But I guess it will be another week…

Im about to purchase all of my wiring so i can get started building my system, but i want to make sure i buy the right stuff. My system consists of one ss rl-p off of an aq2200d at 4 ohms, polk momo component set, and a kicker zx200.4 running those. (stock electrical). I talked to a guy at knuconcepts and he told me i should get the 0 gauge kit, with a knd-23 distro block that has 2 0 gauge ports, and three 4 guage ports. He said i should run the 0 gauge kit to one 0 gauge port, the run some 1/0 from the other port to the aq2200d. then run some 4g from one of the 4g ports to the kicker. If that made any sense could you tell me if that works? lol

I've had my koda 8's and ID cx62's sitting around for god knows how long. There is someone over at CA.com selling this amp http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171515 for 185 shipped. That's a really really good price for the power it puts out. Is there something wrong with MB quart? Why isn't anyone really showing interest? I just want to know b/c I'm about to pm him about picking it up but need to know what I'm about to purchase. I just want to put 150 to the kodas and maybe 100 to the ID's. Tell me what you think

Is the JL Audio A4300 amp a good match with 4 Infinity Reference 6822cf speakers? I got the speakers for free and just wanted a good cheap amp to power them to their full potential. Also is there something else you would recommend for these speakers instead? Specs Speakers: RMS - 2-60 watts Peak - 180 watts Impedance - 2Ohms Amp: RMS Power @ 4 Ohm: 70 watts x 4 at 14.4 volts *RMS Power @ 2 Ohm: 110 watts x 4 at 14.4 volts <<This setup? RMS Power @ 4 Ohm: 45 watts x 4 at 12.5 volts RMS Power @ 2 Ohm: 75 watts x 4 at 12.5 volts RMS Power @ 4 Ohm: 220 watts x 2 at 14.4 volts RMS Power @ 4 Ohm: 150 watts x 2 at 12.5 volts

So I think I have decided on getting a Q for the new system - either a sealed 15 or a ported 12. I am looking for something to power it now. Really what I wanted to do was a Sundown SAZ-1500D for the sub and a 100.2 for the front stage. However, now were talking around 220 amps to run off my 130 amp alternator. This is just a daily driver so if I can get away with it, I don't really want to get an HO alt. So I am open to suggestions on amps to get? You think I could get away with those two amps without an HO alt? Or should I be realistic and tone it down a bit?

Having a sparatic issues with my remote voltage. Out of nowhere, I am having an issue with the amps/xm unit shutting off randomly. Turn the H/U off and it works again. Took out the DMM and found that Idle voltage is 12.4 and dips around 11.4 when the music is playing. Drove around for a few min and it did its thing again at which the voltage was around 5.5 and not sufficient to turn my amps on. I am running two amps, xm unit and SMALL low rpm fan on the remote circuit and have not had a problem for quite awhile...( I don't believe it is related to having too much stuff on the 12V remote) However....My H/U is over 3-4 years old Alpine 9827 Thinking it has gone through its …

Ok, I have never owned an amp w/o on-board fuses. I understand that fuses are necessary, but I am a bit confused about just how they are installed and WHY they are necessary. I'll probably purchase an amp kit that comes with an in-line fuse. I understand that this is to protect the battery in the event of...hell idk, I just know it's to keep shit from catching on fire. Now further down the line, the two amps I have have on-board fuses to protect themselves in the event that they should draw more current than they need/can handle. (Not quite sure about that either. I know that fuses usually pop when too much juice passes through them.) Now...I've been avoiding this by limi…

I'll be needing some RCA to run from my HU to my amp. I have some that I got from parts express, but they seem pretty cheaply made.

While looking around at H/U's Saw this on Chrutchfield. Looks pretty interesting. Opinions? http://www.crutchfield.com/p_333ASTRDSM/Parrot-ASTEROID-Smart.html

I got a buddy that just bought a JVC KD-DV7300 H/U. This model does not come with a built in monitor. He is wanting to connect the unit so that the DVD monitor is capable of running all the time. He has a 13" external screen that he has previously used. The unit has a light green wire that is supposed to be connected to the brake line. Is there a way to over ride this? Thanks.

Has anybody used Braille Batteries before?

Does it matter that much about the audio cables I think they run from the amp to the head unit. At sound advice they have 25$ and they have 100$ ones is there that much of a difference I wouldn't want them to have to re run them.

So I was browsing the classified looking at all the junk that people wanted a ton for when I came across this. Even better was what I paid. Just wish I had a use for it, its been sitting in a closet for years I was told, its got some scratches but its a huge beautiful amp. Please bear with me as I have never posted pics on a forum. Album: Codesters audio stuff 1 images 0 comments

I've been having problems with my stock battery and I want to replace it. So I want something good to replace it. I just measured and I have a max 12" long x 7.5" wide. I'm just a little unsure what to go with. My budget is around $200 but I don't mind spending a little more if need be. This is my first battery purchase so I'm not sure what the best place to order from either. I was thinking a Kinetik 1800 but I'm not sure, I just don't want to make the wrong decision and regret it. Appreciate any help.

hey guys. quick opinion thread. I already have my big 3 done and 1 run of power from back to front with 1/0. I have a DC HO alt on its way 200 at idle. i have 2X XS D3100 now and an optima red top onder the hood i will be replacing soon. my new setup will consist of 2X Sundown 2500D witch i already have. my sub stage is a supprise only some of you know lol. My question is... do you guys think with me upgreading all my wire to Welding wire is actually nessessary? my plan is to change my big3 with all 4/0 wire. and have 2 runs of 3/0 power front to back. i am not worried about the $200+ i am spending on the supplies i need including the wire. I am just cerious to see what …

OK I got a charger... how, or can i do the big 3? my battery is mounted in the trunk???

I have a cheap 300w amp that I plan to run to my doors and 6x9's in rear deck. I already have a run of 1/0 to my 1000w mephis amp. I was wondering if it is a good idea to run a short run of about 12-16g wire from the power inputs on the mephis where the 1/0 is, and from there to the power inputs on the 300w to keep from having to put in another run of power cable from battery to the trunk. I tried this already just to power the amp and it worked, but I didn't have any speakers wired to it. Would this be logical, or would it mess something up?

What would be a good amp to run for 4 aa 8"s d4

i plan to run 6000 watts and i was wondering which one would be better? 4 stinger sp44v or 2 stinger spv70 these will be rear batteries. http://stingerelectronics.com/produc...=35&ParentID=1 http://stingerelectronics.com/produc...=35&ParentID=1

Has anyone used this amp before? Im looking for a new amp to run my 2 12 inch pioneer ts-w3002d4 subs at 1 ohm. Subs are 1000 rms each.

I have a 93 civic with a 70 amp alternator. Right now the alternator is producing too much voltage( up to 20 volts) I suspect that my 900 watts rms stereo system(mtx tc 4001 front chan. @ 4 ohms rear chan. @ 2 ohms, mtx mxa6001 A 2ohms) is to blame. So I decided to get a HO alternator, but the closest guy that does it is in brampton a few hours drive. After doing some homework I found out that added a second isolated battery may provide better protection. Does anybody have any advice, pros or cons and what would you do? HO aternator, Second battery or both? I have already upgraded my battery and wireing for those who will ask.

hi there, im using a single sub, an RE MT15, and im looking for review and opinions on which amp to use, i focused my eyes on two amplifiers, thE SUNDOWN SAZ-3000D and the SOLID AUDIO F2500D which would be better, in terms of power efficiency (if it takes less stress on the alternator and is not a power hogger), internals (would it be strong enough to handle the heat and be long lasting) and performance (if it would perform in hot climates, bring perfect power output not like other amps i know which are overrated). basing on these two amps, i want to have the best amp to use on my RE MT15. btw my ride is a 95' mitsubishi mighty max double cab (mitsu L200 pickup double ca…