Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I just got an ASI equalizer for 25$ from my friend. Is it a good processing unit? Anyone know any info about this company? Its the ASIPE 1 7 band equalizer.Here

alright, so i after taking my stock radio out and installing a my alpine deck i am getting a lot of noise. right now i just have the power going to the HU, no speakers no rcas or anything and im still getting the noise. wish i had the money to get my new speakers and amp to get rid of this! would that be a bad ground on the factory amp? here is what im dealing with this is the little factory amp for the speakers Uploaded with ImageShack.us and im not sure what these wires all taped up are for, goes somewhere in the dash that i couldnt follow Uploaded with ImageShack.us heres the 2 connections that plug into it Uploaded with ImageShack.us and this is how it plugs in…

hi, i am positive that it is my head-unit causing this (it is a alpine 9887) but i am trying to see what else it could be. ok for starters i have my gains set on the my sax100.4 At volume 27 is the max (out of 35 i think) and sometimes when i have the volume at only 15 the drivers mid range will get very notice able louder and i will use the balance and the left speaker is barely playing and the left is acting like it is receiving double the signal. now i have the sax 100.4 running active and i am only using the high on the 9887 to feed the sax100.4 channels 1 &2 and then using the output to feed 3 &4. So if it was the amp couldn't one side play fine and t…

Well yesterday my dad was helping me run some wires in my car and decided to shake the hell out of my amp. When he did it ripped out all of my speaker wire connections and everything. So i reconnected everything and checked my connections everywhere but the amp is still not working. My dad is thinking its my RCA splitters. What i was wondering is there a way to test my RCA's with a DMM? Also would a violent shake make the amp quit working? It powers on theres just no output. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have decided to go with 2 FI Q-12 what advice would you give for the amp around $500 I had thoughts of a ZRS-8000D or a GP3000D-pro and ideals, Thanks

OK, so if I don't have it completely backwards, I understand that the higher the preout voltage, the lower the gain can/should be set because the amp doesn't have to be as sensitive of the incoming signal - so the amp can put out full power with the lower gain. My question is since the gain isn't set as high, is the amp drawing less current because of it? Or is it drawing the same amount of current as a signal with a lower preout voltage and higher gain setting? Just curious.

I've noticed, the bass tones usually used to set the gains are 0db, but in most rap songs, bass lines are around -7db to -8db... Some are even lower, especially for other genres. I recently used -8db tones on my friend's setup, and it got MUCH louder, this was about 4 weeks ago, and everything is still running fine, subwoofer never even gets warm to the touch. Shouldn't you use -7 to -8db tones for setting RMS power instead of using 0db tones? Because if you think about it, -7 to -8 is the RMS, and 0db would be the "peak" or "max" or whatever you wanna call it (not that it matters). For those wondering, this is the system I set the gains on: Amplifier - Sundown SAZ-1000D …

I want to run a t2500 or a saz2500 in my truck...what kind of electrical would i need to run either of these amps?

from my readings it was mentioned that remote turn on leads should be fused at .5A on all installs. is this standard practice today or was this directed at older decks? i have just never seen or heard of this until i read it. when using a LOC converter (factory head unit to power amps) i read it should be installed behind the deck. is there any reason against installing it off rear speakers in the trunk or else where in the car? assuming what ever speaker outputs you are going to are the right type e.g. not crossed over from the factory deck at an incorrect frequency for your application. edit: question about gains. when setting amp gains i was told that i should max ou…

would anybody be able to tell me were i could get a voltmeter for my dash im looking for just a basic one any advice would be helpful

I thought about using the Batcap 8400 because it would save weight over conventional batteries. It weighs 70 lbs vs several hundred lbs for yellowtops. Its capable of 8400 amps @16V and up to 9600 amps@12V. Anyone have experience with these and how they compare to batteries? Any issues w/these things?

It was called the Manhattan... It was 5 feet long & it required cooling lines. It was featured back in the day as a new product feature in a car audio magazine (early 90's?).

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So I plan on getting a battery for in the back soon and I was curious as to if it will hurt my battery in the front by getting an AGM for in the back. Also do I have to go with something that is in the range of power my amps are taking or can I go with something along the lines of a XS Power D545? Roughly with both amps I'll be in the range of over 1800-2200watts rated.

RE does not sell the 12.1 anymore, I am wondering if they can repair a damaged one. I have a friend who has one that needs minor repairs. Anybody know?

I have a 4 ohm sub so should i be looking for an amp that has the subs recommened rms at 4 ohms or how do i pick the right amp. i know thats not real clear but i couldnt figur out how else to word it.

ive got a 02 blazer and will be installing 6.5" comp set up front and getting rid of the rear speakers, would there be anything wrong with mounting the x-overs in the rear speaker location?

I know that there are some good amp companies out there, i need a suggestion for, a single 3way comp set up front and 2 15" SI Mag D2s. Comp watts needed 400 total, 2 channel. Sub watts needed 2.5K-3K total mono/ or 2 mono d block amps. Any suggestions for these wattages... moneys not the issue but i dont wana spend alot. I want quality stuff. But not over the top. any suggestions welcome.

hey guys. quick opinion thread. I already have my big 3 done and 1 run of power from back to front with 1/0. I have a DC HO alt on its way 200 at idle. i have 2X XS D3100 now and an optima red top onder the hood i will be replacing soon. my new setup will consist of 2X Sundown 2500D witch i already have. my sub stage is a supprise only some of you know lol. My question is... do you guys think with me upgreading all my wire to Welding wire is actually nessessary? my plan is to change my big3 with all 4/0 wire. and have 2 runs of 3/0 power front to back. i am not worried about the $200+ i am spending on the supplies i need including the wire. I am just cerious to see what …

So, I bought 2 hawker 2v cells to run a 16v tap. I thought i had a problem with that setup and found out it was ok. Someone said it was a bad idea and said i should purchase a 3 post kinetik hc16v(brand new). Thought to myself that id be on the safe side if i went ahead and did it. Called kinetik personally and talk to Jon( I believe) and made sure everything was properly installed and according to my Blue Point Dmm everything was like he said. Well, let me tell u what..... The hc16v setup with the EA alt on 19.1v to the 16v side and with a digital meter with about 3 weeks of driving, the battery dies completely. Got pissed and ran my 2 2v cells now for more mile…

i hav an install 2 weeks from tomorrow and was wonder what is a good amp for two alpine sws 12d2. i need find a recommended amp for them since i ran them on a crescendo bc2000d with gains half way. thanks to all that can recommend me one. budget for amp is 150 to 250 dollars tops 300

Hi sorry if this Is In the wrong area.Ok, I bought a c90 on ebay,it suppose to work, BUT when i got it does not face wont go all the way down to allow a cd to be inserted, And the seems to be a cd jamed In It.The dang thing looks new even the cooper body is almost flawless.My question is can It be fixed? and are parts even avil. It came with org. box both remotes and instruction manuel. It Is a very nice piece. thanks.

i am thinking of putting in a computer for my car with a 6.5" LCD screen would i have to run the audio through the head unit ? and what would be the cheapest one ?

i have 2 FI q 15's, both with 1000 watts rms. i have read reviews about the SAZ 1500d sundown amp, and i have heard that it would be plenty of power since it is over rated for power. is this true? thanks.

so as of the economy being dog chit, i am forced to an extremely small christmas, i will have around 275-300 dollars, so what should i go with between a powermaster2400($280) and a kinetikhc1800 ($259.99) i will be running a rockford fosgate t3001bd with a duralast yellow top and a stock alt with all 1/0 awg, i would love the powermaster but i would also like some other little things ya know. so what would be a better choice between batts