Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

As the title say's i am going to pick up a alpine head unit.I took apart the dash in the car as i have never installed a radio before i was lookin to see what i was gettting into.Looks like it is going to be pretty easy exept for the end result.The molding i have now is for the stock radio with knobs , i would like to keep it.Any ideas on how i can mod the current set up to work with the new set up or buy some kind of aftermarket piece that looks the same?Pictures below. 1. 3.

what is the best way to set ur amps using lpf, hpf and your subsonic filer. what is the purpose of lpf and hpf. the box that i am using is sealed. the subs that i am running are kicker cvx's (1000 watt rms) and i am using hifoinics amps (2000 watt rms, i know they really rnt) and i run my subs at 1 ohm.

Changed from the Ppi Pc 4800 to the Ppi 300.4 i got this as a gift from my Friend Jeff

I'm looking for a 3000rms amp and wondering if you guys have any experience with any good one sundown saz-3000d rf t30001bd etc any other suggestins would be greatly apreciated

ive been looking at this a while back ago for a 15"btl and i found it everywhere, but i started to get intrested in it again but all web sites ive been to says its discountinued?? is there a particular reason why?? the only spot i found this amp on was wooferetc.com and dident say anything about being discountinued by the way im not really new to this board, i had to make a new account cuz i forgot my old password and username after i got my new computer..

right now i have a cheap h/u in. i am willing to spend about $400 for a h/u. who makes the best h/u for basic sub setups.

I need an amp to push 2 12 re se's. I want to give them at least 1k rms @ 1 ohm. I dont realy wanna spend more than 300 either. One amp ive been looking @ is the AQ1200D but im open to other ideas as ive never used anything from audioque. Thanks

Are these amps much good, for the price? Does anyone know if the 1Kw class D puts out actual and how about strapped? The guts don't look that bad inside, and I don't think they sold these at walmart.

got a few questions about the system im putting together, and im still kinda new to this hobby so bear with me =] I got the alpine DVA-9861 to replace my old CDA-9815.. i had some technical issues with the 9815 (pos from carstereo.com) but other then it being broken i loved the features ie) x-over, lpf, hpf, time alignment, parametric eq [even tho it was confusing as helll]... so i figured id just get a new one but i wanted one that could play DVDs so i could have more MP3s on a disc. for some reason i thought that using an ipod wouldnt give me 4v preout, which is why i wanted the mp3s on a disc.. anyway i went ahead and glanced over the specs on the 9861 and everything l…

So what are the benefits of a line driver? I have a Clarion VRX755VD w/ 2volt preouts. With the gains set at 3/4 of the way up I still have to turn the deck's subwoofer gain setting to +3. If I don't turn the deck gain to +3 then the subs won't "max out", even when I reach full volume on the HU. Would a line driver solve this problem? I just don't feel safe turning the gain on the amp all the way up.

When an active x-over is set, amps that power mids and highs, do the x-overs on these amps need to be set to Full Pass? Also, amps that power subwoofers, do these amps' LPF need to be set as high as possible? and if their is a subsonic filter on the active x-over, does the subsonic filter on the amp need to be set as low as possible?

I need to find out if i will need the big 3 or not with my setup. Here is what i have 1 12" kicker L7 750watts rms 2ohm dvc and am going to be purchasing a JBL GTO 1201.1 787watts at 4ohms. My car is a 95 ram 1500 and i think the alternator is 120amps will i need the big 3? information on the amp there are 3 40amp fuses so 120 amps is the most the amp will pull i was told just put that there maybe it will help you guys. THANKS! if you need more information i will try to post it up!

ok ive been looking throught the "big 3" posts and i understand everything except for the block to chassi ground i cant seem to find the stock one on my truck. if i cant get to it what would be the easiest way to do this also would it hurt anything if i ran 2 1/0 from alt + to batt+?

This is the Orion HCCA-D5000 Output Power at 13.8V: 1 x 1000W @ 4 ohms 1 x 1600W @ 2 ohms 1 x 2500W @ 1 ohm Dimension: 22.8

ok i think i got it. check out the diagram, and tell me if its right. i heard that alot of amps will output a low freq or pop for a second when you turn the amp on, and to use a cap on each channel to not allow that freq. to get to my tweeters. the nominal load of each channel after i wire it up will be 1.5 ohm. so according to WinSD or whatever it is, it say that a 68uF 100V cap (with the 1.5 ohm load) will not let any freq under 1000ish Hz pass through that cap. is that right? i also have the Coustic XM6 (just ordered) which is 18dB per octave, and then the HPF on my amp is 12dB per octave, does that make my overall slope for the tweets 30dB? plus does the cap still add…

ok last thread i promise- i wanna keep this clean and no bs posts, just information please. reason is that i'm positive this is the last thread is becuase i got my tweeters in, and they were hard to find, i got the 8 of the last 10 pairs they had in stock, and i only paid dealer cost (48 a pair SHIPPED) vs like 80 a pair where most others sell them for. anyways, they're still bullets, i know you guys wont like them, but they are comparable to Eminence sound wise, they're a tad bit louder too, 109dB efficient.... also, they look better too. again, not to most of you guys, but i didnt want 16 big square eminence tweeters, so i got these, they look like the Beyma/o2 bullets,…

Ok so heres the deal. I have one of these and i just ordered a 15 Fi BTL dual 1, everythin except the cooling. My question is if i were to get a second sub again dual 1 and wire them both to 2 ohm that would be one ohm at the amp right? Also if i were to strap another amp it would still equal one ohm at both amps right?

ok well in the mini cooper, the back windows are tinted with 5%, plus will be covered completely anyways, so NO sun at ALL will be coming in the back hatch area where the amps are. they are those MTX TA amps, they have that "xtant" cooling thing or whatever, where it sucks air in the front, and it blows out the sides or something like that. well, since its gonna be walled off, no a/c will be in the rear...i basically wanna throw a few fans in the back that come on with the headunit just to have airflow back there....and i dont mean a couple little PC fans...any ideas? something that wont draw hardly any amperage either.

im about to start a 4 stock with 1ohm DVC 18" fi ssd blowthrough on my 95 ram singlecab and i am looking for some pretty good prices on either a powerbass XA-3000d or the massive audio P3000.1

I couldn't decide for the longest time and now i've finally decided. And i'm going with AVIC-D3. I bought it today now its just a matter of time until i get it in. Hopefully tomorrow. I was bored so figured i'd post. Feel free to tell me what u think about it.

Topics is pretty self explanatory, i was considering brands like -Kicker -RF -Hifonics Question is what model i would need and how much RMS power to push this Sub??? all suggestions appreciated thanks

I would like to give a big THANKS to johnecon2001, vladd and a few others for talking me into experiencing the wonderful world of Time Alignment. I recently purchased an Alpine 9887 and can not believe the difference in the imagining that TA makes. How did I ever get along without? Thanks again guys this is by far the coolest/greatest thing since Sliced Bread.

Does anyone have any experience with the 2003 line up of Rockford Fosgate punch amps? I'm considering picking up a Punch 150 "25 to life" amp to go along with my Punch 600.4. I'm wondering if it would be better to go with this amp or to stick with the older style 500.2 that I can get a bit cheaper.

Hey ok i have a question about multliple runs of wire from a battery in front to batter in rear to amp. Would i just go from + on batery in front to + on battery in back, and - from battery in front to - in battery in back the + from battery in back to + in amp, and - on battery in back to - on amp. Then ground the neg at front. Heres a pic of what i mean (the boxs on the + wire are fuses) Also say i wanted to do two runs of 1/0 would i do 2 + and 2 negatives between the batterys and then just do 1 run of 1/0 to the amp? Thanks for the help! hope i made a little bit of sense, please let me know whatever i did wrong im open to suggestions!

this is what i want to do. if someone could draw up a nice detailed wiring diagram to help me better understand it, id really appreciate it ok first off, please dont hate, you guys know how i do with the mids/highs, im just looking for someone to help, if you dont want to help me, please dont post and get my thread locked or start arguments. ok, so, in the mini cooper, ill have a total of 3 amps. they're on order so theyll be here soon i have the 18" mt, 16 6.5s in the front cabin, and 16 tweets in the front cabin. in the back (behind the wall in the cargo area) i will have 2 sets of components (or 4 coax, whatever i decide on) for shows or whatever. the front 16 mids w…