Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I've got an old MTX Terminator high current amp but its missing the 5 pin connector for the speaker wire. Any idea where I can find one of those? Ebay doesnt seem to have any. The board was made by PPI but I'm not sure if the ppi 5 pin will work with this amp. heres a side view of the amp from ampguts.

I'm looking at maybe picking up the N4 which is Massive's new Nano line. Was wondering if anyone has experience with the Nano line. I've had older lines of Massive amps and I think they are fine, but never tried the Nanos. Wondering how hot they get.

I have a 2008 trailblazer with stock electrical. I have the t400-4 and a t1000-1bd. Will I be alright with the big 3 and a new battery, like an optima redtop (yellow top wont go in my car) or do you guys know of any better batteries for about the same price (under $200)? Also, where can i get 0 gauge battery cables for the big 3?

I got my box design, I got the sub I want in mind. (Fi BTL 15''), I got the Big 3 finished. Getting a free yellow top optima battery. In the works of a 200amp alternator. Will a 200amp alternator run a SAZ-3000D amp with/without ease? I want to make sure that this setup will not stress my cars electrical system if I have everything that I listed above. I would like to make this my daily system and enter small competitions. Comments much appreciated. Thanks, -Curt

Hello, I have about 1200 watts rms of power (1 sub and 2 speakers) in my car : one saz 1000 and (soon) an sax 50.4 bridged to my comp set. My power and ground are 0 gauge. I will very soon do the big 3 with all 0 ga. I would like to have more electrical power, in order to have maybe a 1500 or a 2000 watts amp for a next sub. What would be better ? Add a second battery in the trunk ? XS or Kinetic, like the small one they make for Honda civic. Or just replace the battery under the hood with a bigger one? always XS or Kinetic. I don't want to have a HO alternator, so I will keep the one I got. I don't remember how much amp it is, but my car has a Diesel engine, so the alter…

my friend has a option blue top would that work for a main starter batt

Hi everybody, I'm getting rid of my rear speakers : I can't hear them with my 15" Icon playing! I will only keep my Focal 165 KP front speakers, but I don't want to go active. What should I do? Keep my current 4 channels amp and bridge it to the Focal? (This amp puts out 2*225 watts rms) Or sell it and buy a 2 ch amp (to save some power , and maybe some space and weight) I was looking at the Sundown amps : 125*2 or the 100*2. What do you think? What would you do?

I have been looking at the clarion eqs746 dash mount crossover. Not sure if I like the idea that my head unit has 3 rca outputs and the EQS746 only has one input. I am interested in installing a crossover but was thinking of looking at a trunk mounted model. thoughts??? Opinions???? model suggestions for the trunk mount models??? have been looking at Audio control and I have a MTX RT-X02i used in the 90's looking to improve my current sound output. I feel like I am missing something just haven't figured that out yet.

As per title lads, I have a full range RCA going into the H650 but I reckon it could sound alot better than it does Any suggestions dudes?? Is there a setting i must change on the HU to get the better response out of the Processor?? Thanks in advance dudes quinny

Would it be better to run 0 gauge from the ground of the amp straight to the negative terminal of the battery instead of hooking it to a bolt under a seat?

Okay I just upgraded my 4 Guage to 0 gauge , me and my buddy both wired our cars, his car for some reason wouldn't start. He thought it was his battery, anyways my car worked fine, about 12 hrs later I go to start my car and it will not start, its not my battery, I checked it and its at about 12.5 volts, I unhooked the main source and still nothing, any ideas of what it could possibly be??? Sensors, relays, fuses etc.

What are you guys' thoughts on this? It is sort of temporary give or take on how much I like it, I don't like the looks too much but it seems like its fine. I like having the noticable volume and channel changing button also. The USB I have read that you can plug your iPod through the USB and it should work (if it doesn't I have a flash drive or can get a bigger one for ~10$) and it plays cds. I have an iPod touch and I haven't been able to use it because the wireless ones dont work for chit (and differ in each car), I have no tape deck, and all I can play are cd's. This unit also has 6v pre-outs with front rear and subwoofer RCA inputs. (I can use them for my subs) I als…

well, just ordered myself an older panasonic CQ-DF903U. Ive had a older 6000 model I think it was and a 702 or something and really liked em both, can only imagine that the 903 is better than both of those. anyone have any experience with this on? wht did you think of it. monday I leave for new jersey to work for 3 weeks and have a free place to stay, free food, no utilities, so when I get back Ill have all the money left and should be getting my amp and sub then. amps looking like a SA SAE1200D to power a HDC312 or a Fi BL12. man I cant wait to get it all and get it installed. just a stock 93 accord, wonder how it will handle the current draw. Ill do the big 3 for sure, …

hey guys i am new two the whole speaker set up thing but knows some about amps and subs. My question is i have 1997 f150 regular cab with four speakers one in each door and one beehind each seat. Are these stock speakers active or passive? I really dont know what the difference is between active and passive if you guys could help me understand that would be great. I also plan on replaceing these speakers by next year and i would like two know if i should run an active or passive speaker set? P.s: i also putting a 10 or 12 inch sub in on its own amp, run four speakers on a 4channel amp? and i need to find a new h/u i am looking to spend about 1200. any help and answers wou…

Ill be putting an indash Nav reciever into my wifes 2011 Nissan Xterra for Christmas, what Im looking for is usb/aux extensions to run from the back of the radio and mount in the cab (preferably in the center console). Does anyone have a prefered kit or method to do this? Ive seen a couple kits on amazon but it seems they are more for boat/RV as they have like 2.5" mounting depths. Any help is appriciated. Thanks

I just sold my kenwood mp5035 and am looking for a new one. i really want one with a tilting motorized faceplate. and that could hook up to my ipod and is HD. i have been looking at the http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...amp;I=099CD3100 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...amp;I=099CD4000 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...mp;I=113KDCX891 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...amp;I=099CD7000 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...amp;I=099CD5100 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kxrBgGfz8lb/c...mp;I=113KDCX991 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A:IT&ih=002 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...A:IT&ih=002 http:/…

If I was to add second batterie to my system, would I need a batterie issolator or will I be fine without one.

The alt is mechman 250amp adjustable voltage and the battery is xspower d1400 14v. I know that there is no definite answer but do you guys think that this would be sufficient to power 3 amps? (saz 3000d a jl 500/5 and a jl e4300) Maybe make it two batteries? Better alt?(recommendation for 1)

Replaced my RCA's today and now I have a terrible alt whine. Never had this happen before so Ive been trying to do some research and what the problems could be. Here's what Ive tried so far. I've disconnected the RCA's and the whine goes away. Plugged a factory wire back up with factory speaker and no whine Disconnected the 4 channel amp from the ground block and grounded it independently at another point. Since theres no whine with the factory speaker am I correct in assuming its nothing behind the head unit i.e. radio antenna, HU ground Any other suggestions? Also I did remove the remove and plug in the rca's while the system was running. Just…

I need help choosing an amplifier for a Kicker CVT 10 that I’m going to purchase soon. But if one 10 isn’t good enough for me I was planning on getting a second one. So what I was wondering is if there is a sub that I can start out with and give it the power the one sub requires and also if I were to wire up a second CVT 10 to the amp, also have those two subs well powered. I’d like to get the most out of my sub(s). So if someone could please advise me on this! I have had a suggestion of getting a Kicker CX600.1. (new model). Which is 4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan. 2 ohms: 600 watts x 1 chan. TheKicker CVT 10 is RMS: 400 Peak: 800 The reason why I’m getting such a smal…

Hi, need a small powerfull amp for one ssd 10 dual 2. I think about one Fosgate PUNCH P1000-1BD or one Soundstream Stealth Series STL1.1200D. The Punch is BD class and has 1000watts and the soundstream ab class and has 1,2kw... The amp has to be stable and powerfull but most importantly SMALL..... Whats the better choice?? Patrick

so i am gonna get me a 3000d and i want o be able to run it, my zx650.4 and my car at full tilt sometimes so this is what ive come up with d2700 up front d3100 in back big three in 0/1 and one run back to the saz300d ive got 4ga ran already for the zx650.4 how am i doing so far?

Am using a US Amp MD.3D amp. I got a HO alternator from Nations that push out around 140 Amps at idle and 230 Amps max output. I also have a 2 Farad cap and a battery that is 1000 cranking amps (CA)and 850 CCA. Will this be enough to run this amp without it going into PROTECT mode or shutting off due to the lack of "juice"? What is the "BIG 3"?

is there some kinda tutorial explaining how to do this in detail...if so can someone post the link up thanks

Hi, there is a "high" level and "low" level sensitivity switch on my JL amp. The manual suggests to set at "high" but I almost get no movement from the sub until I turn the gain at least halfway. Setting it at "low" seems to boost the signal input and the sub bumps alot more with the gain at zero compared to halfway setting before? I usually set mode slope to 24db as it sounds better to me and center frequency 65hz and low pass around 80-100 depending on size/box the sub is in. Its a sealed 400w 10" that I've been fooling with, so should I keep input at "high" level setting and boost sub eq on headunit and gain more? Or just stick with what sounds best? I have 4v preouts,…