Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

hi, i have 2 questions: one how can a person determine how many and which kind of battery's a person needs ( like CCA Ah, etc) for around 2.5k rms and also do you have to fuse a ground run?

Who can I talk to about having a Treo 750.1 fixed, I've been told THE fets are fried.. I'm not 100% sure if anything else is fudgeed or what, but I'd like to see how much it'd be to get fixed, rather than buying another amp.

Ok I'm not that good at this but have a newer amp with 6 chips on the PS sink. Seems to be two transformers and 3 fets each, the output is on other side of chassis. Well the 3rd and 6th one are shorted pos to neg and blew the +12v trace. If shorted then they must be bad, the rest are near same ohms and not on/shorted at rest and all same # chips. Anyway, can I just replace them....what would cause this to happen? Would something else be shot too? They are $15 each so far I've found. Yes this is a junk explode amp, but might as well see what I can do its like new otherwise and 500wx1rms so not bad. I've been told not to substitute parts on new amps, have no idea what was d…

anyone know if its legit, does it do what it says?

Concept HP-65.4 Amplifier Description: RMS Power 70W x 2 @ 4 Ohm RMS Power 135W x 2 @ 2 Ohm RMS Power 260W x 1 @ 4 Ohm MONO Signal-to-noise ratio: 100 dB Frequency Response: 5Hz - 50kHz Total harmonic distortion: 0.05% Continuously variable 0 - 18dB BASS boost Built-in continuously variable 18dB per octave crossover Input sensitivity: 200mV - 4V Engraved CONCEPT logo Gold connectors Small footprint Dimension: 13-2/5" x 6-6/7" x 2"

So right now I am planning out my system. It is going to be about 2600 watts total, using either RF, Kicker, or Sundown amps. I have a 160 amp alt now as well as the stock 730 ampere battery. Of course I will be doing the big 3 upgrade. I am almost certain I may need another little battery just in case, a smaller Kinetik or so. What are the chances of me needing a bigger alt?

I currently am running 2 amps, 1 for comps and 1 for sub. It totals 1300rms. So, I would need about a 130a fuse as a estimate, correct? I'm gonna upgrade the big 3 and get a HO alt. I don't really know jack about amps and all that. My question is, can somebody help me figure out what size alt to get? Would a 200a be sufficient? I drive a 97 Exploder 6cyl and I think the stock alt is 95a. Any help is greatly appreciated

I am having some problems with my amps cutting off. They aren't actually cutting off i guess(the green power light stays on)but the speakers or sub will cut off(depending on which amp cuts off) and when they come back on i can hear the amp click back on(same sound they make when i first start up my truck) so, i guess the amps might be cutting itself off for some reason maybe? they arent going into protect mode. It happens only when the volume was up a little. Before i installed my HC-800 they would cut off when the volume was around 18-20 of 35. Now that i installed the HC-800 i can turn it up to 21. Im running a kicker ZX250.2 for the door speakers and a ZX1000.1 for my …

h, i am thinking of running a 980bt for my headunit and i want to use it to do an active set up and i was reading the manuel and i think i understand how to do it but i want to make sure. this is how i think it is: i need to have channels 1 and 2 used for the tweeter with a highpass set to whereever then use channel 3 and 4 for the midrange with a lowpass set just below the highpass. and i want to use 2 sets of speakers so i can just run an rca from the amp to the other amp. and sorry but this is my first time doing active and i want to make sure. also on the amp. Sax100.2 would i set x over on it to full? or is there a way to bypass it.

What are some good 4 channel amps that can run 2-way active off of them. Something between 100-150 RMS. I would like to spend $350 or under.

Hey guys, I'm in the process of building a system for my Infiniti G35 coupe and I'm trying to figure out which amp to get. Here's what I'm getting: Front components: Focal 165 K2P's, 100W RMS Rear Midbass/Midrange: Diamond Hex S6.0mx3 150W RMS, or Infinity Kappa 62.7i's, 75W RMS (Haven't decided if I want full range or not in the back) The amps I'm looking at are: Audison VRx 4.300 4x110W, $1300 Audison VRx 2.150 for the fronts, and run the rears off the HU 2x110W, $860 Audison LRx 4.300, 4x65W, $640 Focal 4x75W $620 Audison LRx 2.250 2x110W, $525 Diamond 6700.4 4x110W, $525 Focal 2x75W $420 I would love to get the Audison VRx 4.300 and be done with it, but it takes a lar…

Is it possible for me to run my back door speakers directly off the head unit if I'm already using the rear RCAs for my front stage? I know some people don't like the rear speaker thing, but I have people in my truck all the time, plus I like it that way.

what can this amp really do with (2) fi bl 18"s? overated or underated?

mmats d300hc. gonna try to mod it to run at 1 ohm daily, might just try it to see if it will be stable. shoould go nice with the sq4035 i have

can someone finish this diagram for me? keep in mind, i will have TWO sets of horns, and TWO relays. so i need to know how to hook up the one switch for both sets of horns, to both relays. also, i just need one fuse for both power wires going to the relays right? what amperage should i get? the horns are Hella Supertone 85115's.

hi, i currently have an alpine pdx 4 100 and today i was messing around with my crossover because i was using my head unit as it and my battery died this morning so i lost everything when i replaced with and ever since i messed with the crossovers it has been going into prottection mode after about 10 mins at full volume ( by full volume i mean 45 out of 62 becuase that is where i set my gains to.) now last time it did this it was hot outside ( 97o) and today it is 92 but the feel like temp is 97 so could that be the problem. i have it mounted on my backseat with them folded up.

i finally did the big three today... and omg my voltage jumped up from 12.8 to 14.1 with the engine on.. and under load still getting 12.8 only 70 amp alternator and stock batterys and 8 gauge wiring the old ground cable was so ugly, it was soaked up in motor oil where the terminal bolts on to the engine mount and up at the top where the connector goes to the battery it was corroded with acid dust... (shoulda taken a pic of it before i threw it away). for the grounding from the engine to the chassis i bolted it to the long screw that screws into the alternator and then sanded off some paint and grounded it to the chassis. then for the + battery to alternator i ran the …

Ok I don't usually like to ask these type of versus questions but I've narrowed my replacement amp (for my blown RE35.1D) to these last 3(I needed a 1500 watt amp that is <18" in length and these were the only few i could find): -RF BD1500-1, the new model -Sundown SAZ-1500D -USAmps md2d The Sundown is the largest and the hardest to put on my amp rack but it's also the cheapest and from all the opinions I've seen a very nice choice. The USAmps is tempting though the most expensive choice. The RF is just tiny nd woud make installs easier. However, I can only afford it if I purchase it on ebay which means it will have a crappy warranty. Any opinion, positive or negative …

has anybody heard about em.. if so what do yall think bout their amps and subs..

I'm installing my AudioControl DQXS and setting up my active system. As a total newbie to this active stuff, I'm crossing one huddle at a time. The first thing is a major, and I mean major noise issue. So bad that it sounds like a test tone being played when the system is at 0 volume. With the vehicle running or not, it only changes in tone. I finished up late tonight and have not been able to do much troubleshooting. I did play with the internal (jumper) ground settings on the DQXS without any success. I was in a bit of rush when I wired it so here's what I did. I daisy chained the power to the DQXS off one of the amps. A 4 gauge wire from the battery to the amp to the …

Saw this head unit for pretty decent price...plus it comes with the ipod cord(ive got an ipod) looked nice is this a nice budget hu? http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=17793

I have a duralast gold in the front and a hc2000 in the rear but fear my electrical could be sooo much better if I got a better batt to replace the duralast in the front. Any suggestions for a good batt for the front under 200 bucks...

hi, i am looking at batteries i am wondering which would be better. kinetic or powermasteror stinger , this is for under the hood and the biggest kinetic i can get is the hc1400 ( because of height) and the biggest powermaster that i can fit is either the PWM-D2400 but if i go with the powermaster would it still be ok to have like the hc2400 in the back or should i go with 2 PWM-D3100 it is going to be a 3k rms system i belive. also i i was looking at stinger's battery too since they are short. my max height is like 8.3" the powermaster's push it then there is the 1400 then stingers are like 7" ( i have to remeasure to see what stinger can fit. also though how big of a b…

1rst is my old USAcoustics 2200f plans for it will be for tweeters 200X2 @ 4ohms 2nd is A newly bought (brand new in box) USAcoustics 2300f planed for mids 300X2 @ 4ohms 3rd is A Sundown Audio unnamed prototype for the sub stage 1400 @ 1ohm If you haven't guessed it I have plans to go active but that could be a long ways away as money is kinda tight. But it should be a fun project. I will be posting for some recommendations for speakers but that is a long ways away as I need to get the electrical built up and some sound deadening first.

Let's say I'm running the Sundown 1000 watt amp with 2 gauge power/ground wire and an 80amp fuse near the battery powering a 12" Fi Q. If I want to change my sub to a 8" Soundsplinter RL-i, and replace the Sundown with a P.G. 400 Watt amp, does the 2 guage wire need to be changed? If not, then does the fuse need to be changed? BTW: I don't have those amps or subs. My main question was the wire question. I realize the Sundown would actually be good for a dual 4 ohm RLi-8. But let's forget all that.