Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

has anybody heard about em.. if so what do yall think bout their amps and subs..

can someone finish this diagram for me? keep in mind, i will have TWO sets of horns, and TWO relays. so i need to know how to hook up the one switch for both sets of horns, to both relays. also, i just need one fuse for both power wires going to the relays right? what amperage should i get? the horns are Hella Supertone 85115's.

hi, i currently have an alpine pdx 4 100 and today i was messing around with my crossover because i was using my head unit as it and my battery died this morning so i lost everything when i replaced with and ever since i messed with the crossovers it has been going into prottection mode after about 10 mins at full volume ( by full volume i mean 45 out of 62 becuase that is where i set my gains to.) now last time it did this it was hot outside ( 97o) and today it is 92 but the feel like temp is 97 so could that be the problem. i have it mounted on my backseat with them folded up.

i finally did the big three today... and omg my voltage jumped up from 12.8 to 14.1 with the engine on.. and under load still getting 12.8 only 70 amp alternator and stock batterys and 8 gauge wiring the old ground cable was so ugly, it was soaked up in motor oil where the terminal bolts on to the engine mount and up at the top where the connector goes to the battery it was corroded with acid dust... (shoulda taken a pic of it before i threw it away). for the grounding from the engine to the chassis i bolted it to the long screw that screws into the alternator and then sanded off some paint and grounded it to the chassis. then for the + battery to alternator i ran the …

Ok I don't usually like to ask these type of versus questions but I've narrowed my replacement amp (for my blown RE35.1D) to these last 3(I needed a 1500 watt amp that is <18" in length and these were the only few i could find): -RF BD1500-1, the new model -Sundown SAZ-1500D -USAmps md2d The Sundown is the largest and the hardest to put on my amp rack but it's also the cheapest and from all the opinions I've seen a very nice choice. The USAmps is tempting though the most expensive choice. The RF is just tiny nd woud make installs easier. However, I can only afford it if I purchase it on ebay which means it will have a crappy warranty. Any opinion, positive or negative …

Are they any good? The ones in question are the GD-6001 and AP-3001. Do they do rated power? How durable are they? How is the build quality and reliabity? I know that the GD-6001 is CEA Compliant so it should do rated if not more but I am worried about the quality of the amps. I want first hand experience not what people have heard. Thanks in advance for the feedback.

1rst is my old USAcoustics 2200f plans for it will be for tweeters 200X2 @ 4ohms 2nd is A newly bought (brand new in box) USAcoustics 2300f planed for mids 300X2 @ 4ohms 3rd is A Sundown Audio unnamed prototype for the sub stage 1400 @ 1ohm If you haven't guessed it I have plans to go active but that could be a long ways away as money is kinda tight. But it should be a fun project. I will be posting for some recommendations for speakers but that is a long ways away as I need to get the electrical built up and some sound deadening first.

I'm installing my AudioControl DQXS and setting up my active system. As a total newbie to this active stuff, I'm crossing one huddle at a time. The first thing is a major, and I mean major noise issue. So bad that it sounds like a test tone being played when the system is at 0 volume. With the vehicle running or not, it only changes in tone. I finished up late tonight and have not been able to do much troubleshooting. I did play with the internal (jumper) ground settings on the DQXS without any success. I was in a bit of rush when I wired it so here's what I did. I daisy chained the power to the DQXS off one of the amps. A 4 gauge wire from the battery to the amp to the …

Well I ask this question on another forum and I guess to must be too tough or too stupid to answer. I can not find any info relating to this. I am about to include a AudioControl DQXS into my system. I will be running my front stage (MB Quarts QSD 216) active off a Sundown Audio 100.4 amp. I'm new to running "Active" so here's what I don't completely understand... Gain Settings. I have read and understand the input/output level setting procedures for the DQXS. What about the gain settings on the amp? Quote from the manual.... "Now adjust the output level control until the "2 volt" or "5 volt" light starts to flicker. You will want the output voltage to match up to your…

rated is 22.5w rms x 2 @ 4 ohm cardomain says it will do 67w rms x 2 @ 4 ohm it actually does 80w rms x 2 @ 4 ohm!!! for all my tweeters ive got 2 punch150's on the way, and im ordering 4 more!

Saw this head unit for pretty decent price...plus it comes with the ipod cord(ive got an ipod) looked nice is this a nice budget hu? http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=17793

i have 4 choices to choose for an amp for my re audio xxx comps since i really didn't like the offers i had for them. and so i am looking at amps for them and here is what i am thinking. Sundown Saz100-2 Kickers sx250.2 (if they can handle 250 watts) Kickers 400.2 Jl 300/2 These are 2 ohm speakers and i am only going to be running a front stage so they neet to able to get fairly loud since i will be having 2 12" icons for the subs.

I have a duralast gold in the front and a hc2000 in the rear but fear my electrical could be sooo much better if I got a better batt to replace the duralast in the front. Any suggestions for a good batt for the front under 200 bucks...

hi, i am looking at batteries i am wondering which would be better. kinetic or powermasteror stinger , this is for under the hood and the biggest kinetic i can get is the hc1400 ( because of height) and the biggest powermaster that i can fit is either the PWM-D2400 but if i go with the powermaster would it still be ok to have like the hc2400 in the back or should i go with 2 PWM-D3100 it is going to be a 3k rms system i belive. also i i was looking at stinger's battery too since they are short. my max height is like 8.3" the powermaster's push it then there is the 1400 then stingers are like 7" ( i have to remeasure to see what stinger can fit. also though how big of a b…

Let's say I'm running the Sundown 1000 watt amp with 2 gauge power/ground wire and an 80amp fuse near the battery powering a 12" Fi Q. If I want to change my sub to a 8" Soundsplinter RL-i, and replace the Sundown with a P.G. 400 Watt amp, does the 2 guage wire need to be changed? If not, then does the fuse need to be changed? BTW: I don't have those amps or subs. My main question was the wire question. I realize the Sundown would actually be good for a dual 4 ohm RLi-8. But let's forget all that.

Im just looking for a little info on what you guys think the best headunit out of the above choices would be. They are all capable of running active frontstage which is what im looking for. And im pretty sure I can get them at or around the same price. Any of you guys with experience with any of the choices, please post any likes/dislikes. Thanks.

I am looking at the following three headunits and would like to see what you guys recommend. If you have another option let me know about it. Time correction and sound quality are most important. The crossover abilities may come into play but my amps have that area covered. Thanks for your input. Alpine CDA 9887, Eclipse CD7100, Pioneer DEH-P880PRS. All of these do the basic features I need such as satellite radio and Ipod. I do not car anything about the area serve in the Eclipse. I am more concerned with which one would give me the best sound quality performance and have the best build quality.

Okay, So here in a few days Im ordering two subs.... Either the Maw-15's or the Eclipse SW7200. Both of which are rated 500w Rms. So I have picked out some Amps that caught my eye to use to push them. Take a look and tell me what you think. Please feel free to inform me of other Amps from which I did not list. MONO ___________________ Memphis 16-PRD1000.1 HiFonics 1606D Sundown SAE-1000D Us Amps XT-2000D 2-Channel ___________________ HiFonics ZXi 1006 So yea...... Thnks in advance

I took my bmw to a local install shop here in Atlanta.... I had them make me a sealed box for my 2 15's. Solobaric l7's to be exact(dual 4 ohm)..... i dropped my car off and left.... When I returned everything was done! EXCEPT! I have a o guage kicker wiring kit and they told me 0 guage wouldnt be necessary so i said ok we'll see what happens first... i told them i wanted to use the 300a kicker fuse though.... I returned and all my settings were turned up... the sub on the radio was at 15/15 the highest it would go..... the bass was at its highest level and the gain was more then 75% up..... they told me......" we've been playing it hard for the last hour trying to break …

Well, I have to ask for help this time. I have a high pitched whine coming through my speakers, even without the car running, so it's not engine noise, but this one is strange. While troubleshooting, I grounded both the radio chassis, RCA shields (Pioneer FTL), regular ground, redone every ground in the car, ran new RCA's, etc etc. So I gave up last night, and decided to sleep on it. This morning, went back out to combat the problem, just turned the key to ACC, fired it up, and it was gone. Went to start the car, and it came back. So I did a little more troubleshooting, and went back in and figured out that with the key in ACC, there is no noise, but as soon as I tur…

I just picked up a pair of MTX Thunder TA81001D amps, and according to the engineers at MTX there is no way to disable the subsonic filter or bypass the built in EQ in the pre-amp board (which is a crock). The TA92001, TE4001, and TE1501 units all have a button to bypass all of this garbage, but no such button exists on the TA81001. If you take the pre-amp board out, you can clearly see a spot on the board for the bypass switch - Labeled as "S102". MTX refuses to give me a schematic or instructions on what needs to be jumpered, removed, etc. to eliminate the EQ and Subsonic filter pieces. I'm about to tear into it myself, but figured I would ask here first. If anyone has …

i have noticed that the new amps have no way of letting you know where you are setting the Freq at... i.e older PPi amps have notched pod switches, so you could count the clicks to let you know what freq: you were setting to !!! if i set the SSF to 24 clicks ( counter clockwise ) i knew it would play no lower than 23Hz and if i set the LP filter to 18 clicks ( counter clockwise ) i would play no higher than 122Hz now they use cheep generic pod switchs, and nothing printed to give the user a clue as to were you are on the freq: graph... WTF happened ? are they saving that much money using the cheeper pod switch ?

Hey guys, I came across a USA 442 and picked it up for a real nice price. Before I did, I wrote to US Amps and asked for some background on the amp. Someone named Jeff Coleman replied and gave me some info on the amp..... some power specs, production run, etc. But, he commented that the 442 had an interesting and complicated crossover and that if I couldn't get an original owner's manual that I should run an outboard crossover with the amp. Anybody got any comments? Advice? Experience with the amp? Thanks in advance.

I am buying 2 of either amp and I wanted to know whether anybody has had a positive experience with either of these amps.

Ok so for my system I'm going to be using a Memphis PR500 (Im almost certain thats what it was) to power my two Assasain 8's so first off...is this a good choice for these subs. I know its a good amp, so I think that question was actually redundant....secondly. How much amp draw on my electrical system will I be seeing when I have this thing pounding?