Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Got a question about the electrical of a 2000 Toyota Avalon. I don't have a system in there (still debating about that), so currently its a completely stock 2000 Avalon. I am not having any "electrical" problems but the starting is a little bit slower then I'd like and with winter coming up shortly I don't wanna be stuck with a slow starting car. What happens is that the car will take a bit to start up when its "cold", but if its only been off for a bit, it takes a bit longer to start-up. The interior lights on the dash will dim when i have the brights on and like..put windows up for example. Is this a sign of bad electrical? What are some options that I can do to speed …

What car do u prefer for hit more db? A Toyota Rav4 2005 or A Toyota Tacoma Extra cab 2005 My system is 2 TRF 12" and 2 T20001. what car do u prefer for competition and hit more db

Who can I talk to about having a Treo 750.1 fixed, I've been told THE fets are fried.. I'm not 100% sure if anything else is fudgeed or what, but I'd like to see how much it'd be to get fixed, rather than buying another amp.

Doesn anyone have any expeience with these amps? I am currently shopping around for new amps for the possibly near future and was reading a little bit about treo. I know their subs are of good quality but what about their amps?

I just noticed that Treo is selling amps these days, looks they picked them up damn near a year ago too. Has anyone used or seen these at all, it looks like a nice amp and I'm sure it peforms equally as well. Does anyone know if they're using someone elses boards in them? I bet they only cost 2 arms and half a leg.

I was wondering if there was a kelly bb for car amps i couldent find one so I thought ild ask here. I have a Treo ssx80.4 its still in the box never hooked up how much do you think it would be able to sell for? any help would be great SSA is the best!

Got my Orion 1200D from HCCAfan yesterday, thought I would give Class D a whirl while the RF undergoes surgury :ph34r: for a couple mods. Hooked it up this morning and just got back from tweaking. WOW! I drove that thing pretty hard at 2 ohms to see what she had and one thing she didn't have was heat. Warm to the touch but not hot, my Audison was warmer from pushing the mids. I got it to push a GB RLp at 1 ohm, but it pushed my PG 12Ti pretty hard. I dropped in Kickstart my Heart from the Crue and it damn near stopped my heart . I am a hardcore oldschool guy that thinks the world of vintage RF, PG, and PPI, the stuff from when JL was still an idea . I give prop…

I was wondering if anyone here has used trojan batteries before cause the local distributor around me quoted me an awsome price on a 2400cca agm battery and I am wanting to know if they last long and are any good.

I just bought a brand new sound ordnance 4 channel amp and am still waiting for a new set of speakers for my car. in the meantime I decided to test out a pair of some old alpine type r 6.5s I pulled out of my old car. they don't fit so I put them in a hasty cardboard box to put in the backseat. after installing the amp and hooking up the speakers as rears with the rcas and unplugging my rear stock speakers the alpine hooked up to the amp weren't playing at all. I remember these speakers were working perfectly before and have just been sitting in my house since. I made sure everything was wired properly, the amp turns on, protection light doesn't go on or anything and I ju…

FI BTL 15" dual 2 ohm, wired to 1 Rockford t1500bd The birth sheet wattage is 1700, so after calculation the voltage output should be 41.23. I tested with a dmm to find the voltage and at this level the sub is not as loud as a btl should be. also the amp gets to this 41.23 volts with no punch eq, and very little gain. could anyone explain this because this sub should take all the power of this amp and then some but is not sounding like a btl right now. with twice the voltage output the sub still sounds good, is loud, but the amp gets extremely hot.

Ok guys i'm wondering what could be causing my problem with my amplifier. First of all I'm running an saz-1500d with a fi btl d2 ohm at 1 ohm. Electrical wise is an optima up front, stock wet cell in back, everything done in 1/0 ga including big 3. I've had this installed for at least three months now with not a single issue with the amp. And It was working perfectly fine earlier on my way to work. Then going home from work I had it on for about 5 minutes, cop was coming so I shut the amp off thru the headunit(pioneer), cop passed turned it back on played for about 3 minutes then the amp just shut off. It won't turn on whatsoever. I checked my amp at home with the car run…

Anyone have the specs or a link to TRU's new Steel line, Tru's webpage does not have the latest models. Interested in spec's on the S45. Was told to look on diyma but only found the S44 specs. Thanks

so... i'm sitting in my house for hours, its getting late so i open my garage and too pull my truck in and i notice my amp was still on.. but there was no key in the ignition or anything.. so i'm like what the fuck? i pop my key in and click it over.. head unit doesn't turn on but my amp is still on.. so i pop my hood and unhook my neg on my batt, amp stays on, unhook the pos, amp goes off. Why did this happen?

Ok my friend has a type s in a ported box and a type r in a sealed box, both are prefab and both D4. He was told that the amp he has which is the Legacy LA1990 was $400 but he said he had no idea what kind of amp it was or even the name of it. i found it online and its more like a $100 amp, But im confused about the rms some websites are giving it. All i can find is 2×1000 output 1×2000 bridged output, 2×175 output 2×260 bridged and something like 0.04×1000 output. Now he told me about 2 weeks ago he had it wired at 4 ohms than yesterday he told me he had it bridged. He honestly thought he was running more than 1000watts and after i told him his amp was probably only 400 …

Currently I'm running off ALL stock electrical in my 99 Grand Am. I found an extra car battery in the garage the other day, and got to wondering. I know that deep cell batteries such as the optimas and kinetics are optimal, but would a regular crank battery help my electrical system out at all? It's not reccommended I know, but I have it and if it would help then I don't see why not until I do get a deep cell. Additional Info: Big 3 is NOT done yet. Running a 1000w Memphis Class D @ 1ohm 1 run of 1/0 power to a dist. block in the trunk with a run of 4g to the sub amp and a run of 8g to the mid/highs amp. Got the 1/0 ground from the amp to chassis Stock batt and alt

Alright guys I know this kind of question has been asked before but I just wanted to make sure what will be right for me. I already tried searching for a long time but haven't really found my answer. So I just bought a SAZ-2000D from Mark for my subs and I already have a JBL 4 channel amp for my mids and highs. So what I am trying to figure out is if I should upgrade my alt or just get a second battery. I already have a yellow top upfront and I have the factory 145 amp alt. My system would be around 2500 watts but judging by how the SAZ-2000D did on Jacob's clamp test I'm guessing my system will be close to 3000 watts. I have about 400 dollars left to spend on electrical…

I have a 4 ohm sub so should i be looking for an amp that has the subs recommened rms at 4 ohms or how do i pick the right amp. i know thats not real clear but i couldnt figur out how else to word it.

I do not want to run an amp @ 1/2 ohm. I have two dual 2 subs. I can get a Massive P3000.1 for $618.99, bnib, but it has to come over the border, so I'm not sure what border fees will be and stuff. MA Audio HK4000D http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=14753 MA Audio HK802SX http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=14738 I've heard both of these are power hogs.. I was thinking of going with a 200 amp alternator, and some extra batteries, would this be enough? I haven't found the batteries yet. I could also buy two SAZ-1500Ds, old heat sink design from dB-r. However that is really more than I'm wanting to spend. What else is out there?

Well I don't know if I'm growing up, or just really wanting some better sound, but I'm really wanting a nice sq front stage. Unfortunately I can only adjust the placement of the speakers in the door panels for now, but maybe down the road I'll be able to do some more custom fabrication. This is an 01 tahoe if it makes a difference btw. I am running a set of realm audio 6.5 components off an eclipse ea4000 as my front stage at the moment. I would like to try a 3-way active setup, still using the realm 6.5s and tweeters, and getting either a 7 or 8 inch mid. I plan on running the 6.5s and 7s/8s off an eclipse XA4001 (or another ea4000) 4 channel, and 2 channels of the last …

well im about to start my new build some time next week hopefully and im trying to get my electrical squarred away this weekend so here it goes. i recently recieved my new amp (cactus 5kw), and i know it is going to need alot of juice so my plan is to 1.) upgrade my starting battery to a decent car audio battery (everstart maxx, walmart style now) 2.) do my big 3 in 0 ga (haven't done that yet) 3.) run 0 ga to the trunk 4.) one battery in the trunk for sure (d3100) and possibly another if i need it. so far my knu koncepts cart looks like this: 2, 0ga amp kits(for the extra wire, 250amp fuses), 4, battery terminals, 2, 200 amp fuse(for alt and rear batt.), 10 foot of 10ga…

Right now my setup is(see sig) and I have BAD voltage problems. I believe my problem is that I have a 2ga wire from the front battery to the back(came with the car,to lazy to change it) where I branched 3 runs of 4ga wire off it to my 3 amps. Now I was wondering if I ran 1 or 2 runs of 1/0ga from the front to the back would that cure my problem?

can i run my speaker wire and rca cables in the same door jam or do i need to run them seperate. power wire is seperate from rcas but does speaker wire matter or not another questions trying to wire up my apline 6.5 coaxils how do i know which one is the postive and which one is negative or does it matter

i just went out and purchased a multimeter so i could set the gains properly on my amp. i unhooked my subs, put on a 50hz test tone and turned my stereo up to 24/35. i put the multimeter plugs into the -/+ terminals to test voltage and all i got was 3 volts. I turned the amp up 3/4 of the way and it only gave me 9. any ideas as to what could be the problem?

So Ive bought and returned every solder gun in home depot and none of them work for what Im doing. I want to solder the ring terminals to my 0/1 wire but the guns dont heat it up enough. Where do i get a decent solder gun for doing 0/1 wire and how many watts should it be? The highest I found at home depot was 75. Two weekends in a row now its starting to get frickin annoying. Any ideas?

Is the tsunami DB440 amp any good? What other amps would be comparable?