Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

curious if there were any internal upgrades and improvements to the KX line when the exterior changed

hey guys u have a fi bl 18in dual 1 ohm going to a 1200gto jbl amp at 1200watts rms at 2ohm. i want to make sure that i had this right when i go to set my gains. So i put the 50hz tone. The math is 1200X2(rmsXimdependance) then take the square root of that so i should get 48.98 so when i go to set my gains and i use the volt metter i should set it until i get to 48.98. im pretty sure thats how you do it but just wanna double check dont wanna blow my sub im goin to post pics soon the box for it is amazing custom paint by friend

Since this thing wont allow me to start a topic in the For Sale forum.. I`ll post this here! ~ Unfortunately you're not allowed to post this in the FS forum for a reason, therefore posting it in one of the main boards won't work either. "-While we welcome new members, for the safety of our established members, we restrict new members' access to this forum to replying for purchases only. Once you have become an established and contributing member, you will be granted full access to this forum {An example of the guidelines we will be using would be at least 25 contributing posts, outside of the For Sale Forum} *** Please Note: 25 posts is merely a guideline -- Posting will …

All head units that I know say that each channel is rated at 4 ohms, almost every single infinity speaker that is made is rated at 2 ohms. Is it possible to put an infinity speaker such as Infinity Kappa 63.9i on each channel of a head unit? My friend wants to upgrade his car speakers and go with these so I wanted to know if its safe and what Infinity says is true? True Four Ohms— All Kappa speakers feature two ohm voice coils. Original factory-installed speaker wiring in many cars is 18-22 gauge. This wire, and heating in the voice coil when power is applied, increase the impedance “seen” by the amplifier or head unit. The impedance of Kappa Speakers has been adjusted to…

This is my setup and i need advice to see if i need a capacitor or not. 2001 toyota avalon xl 2 Type r's 1222d Kicker zx1000 Kenwood double din headunit This is my first system and the people at the electronics store said that i need a cap but i cannot be sure. I dont know how to do the big three upgrade. My question: Do i need a capacitor and if i dont have one will my lights be dim? and Will the alternator and battery be able to handle the power without sacrificing the dimming of lights and other electrical problems? i think the alternator gives out 80 amps stock and with the car on it is between 13.5-14.5V thanks

Does anyone have one of these they could snap a pic of the front plate for me?

I have a cheap 2 channel Lightning Audio amp that was given to me. I first hooked it up on my bench to see if it worked. It did, however, it sounded like it was only playing sound that was panned hard left/right and nothing below about 500hz. I took it apart, and the ground that was soldered to the board from the RCA's was broken. If you pushed the RCA's so that the connection was made, it played fine, but one channel was about half as loud as the other. So I took a set of RCA inputs from another amp that didn't work and replaced the ones on the LA amp. The exact same situation.. One channel is twice as loud as the other. I've tried 3 different sets of RCA cables and 3 di…

I have had this system for over a year and it has been working fine until I got a short on the remote wire coming from my amp and going into the remote IN on the lc2i. It shut my system off, so I installed a new remote wire. once I installed the new remote wire my system worked again however I woke up the next day to find my battery was dead. It turns out I accidentally had a few strands of wire coming off of the lc2i's remote IN and touching the 12v port causing my amp to stay on all night. My issue is that when I properly install the wire into the remote IN port, It no longer turns my amp on. Could the remote IN port on the lc2i be bad or am I missing something else tha…

is it better to use only the amp's gain to adjust output (up to the clipping point), or use minimal gain settings and set the bass eq on the hu high? I'm thinking it would be better to just use the amp b/ you dont want the hu sending an already clipped signal?

Does anyone have any reviews or info? Im thinking of trading my JL 1000/1 for a 1400d.

My question has to do with the bypass. If I were to bypass by grounding the parking brake sensor will my rear view camera work? If so which wire am I supposed to splice on to under the dash? I do not need the color wire although that would be helpful but which wire am I supposed to be looking for?

would it be a benifit for to use a huge distro block to tie all my electrical together? heres what i need to tie in 6-8 runs from alternators 6 batteries and 8 runs to the amps. i cant use buss bars because of how my batteries are arranged. could i just route everything to a big block and run power from there to my amps? i may not have explained that well... it makes sence in my head.

Anyone have this or have any opinions on it? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22937_Kenwood+eXcelon+KDC-X494.html what do you think? Not looking for anything too fancy... Just a basic cd player w/ aux+usb inputs, sub out, and 4v preamp outs....this looks like its decent for the $$

What I have currently installed: Kenwood Excelon H/U – Ez700SR (more than 4 years old) Kicker ZR240 on Focal 6.5 Polyglass components Kicker ZX1000.1 on Fi BL15 fully loaded in 4 ft^3 at 32 Hz Big three in 1/0 2005 Mercury Mariner SUV I first set the sub amp with a DMM when I first installed the sub back in November. I was working on modifying the amp rack over the weekend and decided to put the DMM back on and make sure nothing has moved. When I first set the amp I had 44.7 volts with the 50 Hz tone with volume of 27 out of 35. I have no bass boost turned on the amp and all settings on the deck are flat. Now.... The most voltage I could get with the amp was 18.4 vol…

I'm going to be running (2) 6.5 Alpine Type R component sets and i need to know what amp would YOU choose and WHY. Audioque: Amps: AQ4X90 Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - I'm leaning towards the PDX.

hi, i have been using my psp for music lately and the difference in volume from a cd and that is huge and i am wondering how can i go about making it louder? i figure i might be able to use a linedriver but then i got to thinkin that might mess stuff up since most are 8 volt line drivers so if a head unit only has 4 volts preamp i can see problems. so can only one shine some light on this. of btw i am getting a Alpine CDA-9885 ( i need a decently cheap but still a decent headunit right now.)

I have a chance to buy a Diamond D7 D7054 for a pretty good deal, BNIB. My question is, should i buy it and put my bass on hold. I can get the d7054 now and get my new subwoofer amplifier later, and get my Fi Q about a month later. The good news is i could sell off my eclipse ea4000 to try and re-coup what i lost in buying the legendary d7 amp. Some of the things i have going on right now. Looking to get a h/o alt and a kinetik hc1400/1800 Upgrading to 1/0 power and grounds, and doing the big 3. Maybe eventually getting a new front sound stage.

anybody have imfo or comments on db electrical's hi output alternator?

I bought a Kinetik HC1200 because my Diehard gold battery is getting a little old and only charges to about 3/4s original capacity. It got here last night and I figured Id test how it compared simply by dropping it in place of the Diehard. (I do realize Kinetik reccomends at least a HC1800 for replacing main starting battery) Didnt charge it till it was all connected, let it sit in there over night. At that time the lights when the door was opened were quite a bit brighter, good sign I thought. Although the starter seemed to turn over a little faster the dash lights and my seatbelt indicator buzzor almost went completely out. I played some bass on my way to work, and noti…

Is there an adapter so I can use the factory XM antenna in the 2009 Accord with an aftermarket headunit and it's XM module? I have the Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD head unit and am getting http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...ite/GEX-P920XM. I just want to avoid having to run a new antenna.

This? Alpine IDA-X200 - http://www.techronics.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=8449 Alpine CDE-9874 - http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/cde-9874.aspx Pioneer DEH-P3000IB - http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/deh-p3000ib.aspx

Looking to get a 40 amp fuse for my sundown 1500d. Looking online I can't tell wether I need and ATC fuse or a MAXI fuse, just wanna make sure I get the right one. Thanks, Nick

Zapco 750.2 or a Kicker 04KX550.2 to run 2 Soundstream T4 12 or 2 Infinity Kappa Prefect 12DVQ which one whould be the best choice to run these subs ?It will be a ported box.

I have had a dva-9861 setup for several years, I have the Digital sound processor, XM radio and HD radio units connected to it and for the first time I tried hooking up an ipod. I tried a 5th Gen Nano and a 7th gen Classic and in both cases it recognizes the ipod, displays the name of the song on the screen and the "Timer" runs to show how long into the song it is but there is No sound at all. is there any internal setting I have to change to make it work? thanks, Sparty

metal sleeve will probably work from lots of pioneers but im not sure, and have no idea about cross compatability with the trim ring, but its probably the same throughout the line. just opened the box with my deck inside it and it didnt have these items. and before I bid I asked this motherpucker if they were included, and he replied and said yes they were. BUT obviously they werent. I emailed him to see if he just forgot to ship them, but who the hell knows, and just in case I can get my hands on the parts cheap, Id like to keep the deck, if not and he doesnt have them I guess its time for another paypal dispute.....