Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

i finally got my subs hook up and my monoblock going....so i know most of you have your gains set at a quarter and so thats what i did at FIRST. The dmm gain settings way wasnt working for some reason it kept reading the same numbers with the music going and the music off. Anyways i left the gains at a quarter for now and listened to it and i couldnt even feel the subs at high volume so i turned it up to half just to see the difference and then right as you get to half this HUGE rumbling comes from my subs and its constant even if the music is on pause...and this did happen but not as loud when i had my other amp at 4ohms.can someone pls help me with this?? here was a cou…

I purchased a used Kicker ZX 750.1 for really cheap that was advertised as working condition but only after the engine is turned on. I figured this problem had to be unique to to the previous owner's car but it isn't. I tested this thing in two vehicles and it turns on with the ignition but only amplifies a signal after the vehicle itself has been turned on. Furthermore, if the car is turned off without completely turning the key it will continue to work as expected. I'm here to see if anybody knows anything about this. If it's a super cheap/easy fix I'm all over it, but more than that I'm just curious as to what's up. Besides this, the amp works exactly as it should…

Well I have finally gotten around to using the MB Quart PXD-213, I have had them sealed in box brand new for 6 years now. Fantastic product just never used them. The question I am having is this and it may sound like a noob issue so please be gentle. I have a phenix gold 250.2 running them, have 12 gauge speaker wire in lengths less than 3 feet from amp to crossover, now I don't understand the installation diagram cause the damn thing is in german. or deutsh. so here is the issue, it says to run biwire from the amp into the low input and the high input, I have them wired just to the high input from amp and they sound phenomenal. now the issue is this at high volum…

Hey new here. So i own a skar 1500.1d. Have it hooked up to a sundown sa10, and works great. One "issue" ive ran into is when i turn the bass knob halfway up it gets loud (obviously). But anywhere past that it doesnt seem to get any louder or gain any volume. Im confused as to why it does that. I have tuned everything with the SMD-DD1 properly so im confused atm. I had a thought that it might be because i tuned it at 0db but im playing -7.5db music. But technically speaking there shouldn't be a "cutoff" point in volume. Any feedback would be helpful.

Soo just recently my rear speakers started making this werid popping noise that gets progressivley louder when you turn up the music, i hadnt done anything new to the amp before this started and it ONLY happens on the rear speakers. If it makes a difference my rear/front speakers are ran off 2 seperate RCA cables. Anyone have any idea? ive checked connections on the speaker and amp and everything looks fine. Im thinking its either bad RCA cables or the amp is going to shit...

My system was finally working right all together. I was on my way to my apartment (3 hr drive), so I had turned the bass really low so it wouldn't knock my radar detector off the glass. I was just driving along and heard a loud bass hit all of a sudden. It was really weird, kuz the bass was pretty much to where I couldn't even hear it and I guess I didn't notice kuz i had turned it down alot. So the bass hit really hard, then stopped. It did this about 2-3 times, just really odd sounds and extremely loud...like not going with the music that was playing and far far louder than I had the bass turned up. Anyway, I got home to check it out. I can turn the subwoofers OFF…

Hey everyone, I just got my o scope and decided to tune my system. First i did the door speakers since they are ran off the HU, and found I have a max volume of 31/50, all the sine waves looked good, went smooth as butter.... then i went to the sub amp, brz1200d, and i have the weirdest thing showing up on the scope. a picture will be below, or a link. i have eliminated the rca's, hu, and almost all factors with this. even with no signal going to it, and just the amp on, no rca's connected, no bass knob, and i still get a feedback.... please help me figure out why this is happening, i dont want to bump my sub till this is figured out.

Everything working fine until just a second ago. Move the amp and battery around a little (Shuriken BT100 and RD 1750.1D) because they move when I drive which I hate and am looking to fix somehow...but pretty much all I did was increase the subsonic filter a little from like 20 to 23hz, turned the car on and no power to the sub........amp light is on no protection. Checked power connections and everything is fine. Fuse rating for the amp is 4x40amp but I'm assuming they are inside the amp as I cannot see them on the exterior. My only thought at this point is that when a small piece of wire protruding from the amp ground to the amp power that it zapped a fuse? I saw a spa…

Just wondering if anyone has had experience with this welding cable at 1.50 a foot for 1/0 its very enticing. http://www.cableyard.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=32

Just recently ordered 25 ft of 1/0 gauge from weldingsupply.com for what I thought was a good price. I just received the cable yesterday and Im slightly disappointed because its deffinitely on the skimpy side. Anyone have any experience with weldingsupply? Im just looking to see if you guys were satisfied with your order.

I am looking for 4/0 wire. any recommendations for this type of wire. and where to get it

who uses it? whered you get it and for how much? i need to order some power wire, 1/0 or 2/0, maybe bigger, i dont know yet. its for my 16v batteries, alt, and my soundstream xxx10000. should i run welding wire? or get nice caraudio 1/0? ive been reading about both, and its like 50/50...some like welding, some say it sucks. i dont know which i should buy. VJ

and I purchased an Eclipse XA2000 for my midbass/midrange. I'll post up pix and stuff when i get it. Has anyone played around with one of these 2-/multi-channel class Db amps yet? Oh and my batteries cell blew so I went ahead and purchased a optima yellow top while i was at it.

well, just ordered myself an older panasonic CQ-DF903U. Ive had a older 6000 model I think it was and a 702 or something and really liked em both, can only imagine that the 903 is better than both of those. anyone have any experience with this on? wht did you think of it. monday I leave for new jersey to work for 3 weeks and have a free place to stay, free food, no utilities, so when I get back Ill have all the money left and should be getting my amp and sub then. amps looking like a SA SAE1200D to power a HDC312 or a Fi BL12. man I cant wait to get it all and get it installed. just a stock 93 accord, wonder how it will handle the current draw. Ill do the big 3 for sure, …

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I'm just wondering what are the pros/cons of using a dry cell battery, than a wet cell battery. I need to get a couple of batterys and need to know the differences between the two so i know what to buy.

Had planned on going passive, but want to look at all of the options. It is hard to find good information on crossovers on any forum. Would love to assemble a shopping list to compare and thought I would see if you would reply with what you are using. Adding an approximate cost would be great too. Thanks!

Ive always had my wires installed for me but Im doing it myself now. Im puting in a Sundown 1500 in a Explorer. What all do I need? 1/0 ga wire, dist blocks, circuit breakers, etc??? I want to use Knu wires so if theres a link to a complete amp kit that would be fine.

Hello, I am in the process of deciding what I should do. I used to have a 180A alternator and it went bad. I sent it back to get fixed, and they quoted me $170 to build it back to 180A, or basically to fix it. However, they said that for $100 more, they can rebuild it to 200A. (I took it apart just for fun when I sent it back to them, just for fun, and it looked like it was a completely stock alternator which I thought was weird, but then again, I don't know what, besides rectifier diodes, is used to make an OEM alternator a high output alternator. What I do know is that I must've paid close to $350 for it back in 2006.) Anyways, when my system will consist of, will be: …

I am going to be running, eventually, 2 BTLs off 2 Sundown SAZ-3000s. I'm throwing in a DC power AD 250 Special Purpose. DC is building it custom for my car and is the best offer I can find. Thanks Robbie. Anyways, now, the LAST THING I have to decide it what battery. I have it down to Batcap 2000(already have 1) and PM 3100. I'm going to get around 2 more for now, more later. What is better for a daily with a whole nutload of power? Could I mix and match? 2 and 2? try and get the best of both worlds? Thanks!

i need help picking out a amp a 2000 watt should lanzar be good for my 2 rlp 12" sound splinter

what will be the best amp but not so pricey to power 2 Fi Bl 15" i wanna spend around 300-400 or maybe hook up to 1000 watt amps? dunno post some sugestions

to power a 15" or 18" Q should i usa a autotek mm 1400.1 or ss 1500.1? the reason i ask is becasue i have seen a few test done where the ss500 and i think the 1000 did there rated power around 13.8-14 volts. or should i go with the mm1400 and i am getting a good deal on the amps so they are the only 2 i can pick from.

Im gonna get Fi BL 18 2 ohm and im looking for an amp under $150....what am i looking for a class D amp or what theirs so many!!!,,,,,i also wanna max the RMS at 1000watts...and btw to max the subs Rms am i looking for a sub that has 1000watt RMS at 2 ohms or 1 ohm??

Well the title pretty much says it all. I am looking for an amplifier that pushes approximately 1500 watts at 1.5 ohms. My price limit is 400 bucks, maybe 450 if it was really worth it, but if it can be a lot lower, awesome.