Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I installed a stinger voltage display in my car about a week ago. Since then ive noticed that ill be driving around and all the sudden the voltage will drop from 14.4 to 12.5~4. But if i change anythin power consumpiton in car, (i.e. rolling down windows, blinker, turning my lights on, a/c on. and also when i hit the brakes or change gears) the voltage goes back up to 14.5 for a few seconds and sometimes goes back down to 12.5 and other times it will stay back up at 14.5 I thought it might be my connections, so i hooked two DMM in my car. One run to my battery pos and neg, and the other run to my alternator + post to my battery neg. Once i was driving around again and not…

has anyone ever tried this? http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_am/prod...8&catid=145 looks promising if it works like they claim. i don't have voltage drop just wondering if it actually helps.

Lets start things off with the most info I can give. I have a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 ST. It is a single cab 2wd with the V6 3.7L. The alternator is a 136 amp. The voltage regulator is built into the PCM. Now I am running a Soundstream PCX1500d and will be pulling the full rms (of 1500) during competition. I have a single run of 2/0 from front to back with 2 shuriken sk-bt60 batts under the hood. I am getting ready to do the big 3 any day. My current voltage is 13.8-14.1 on a normal day. When it is cold it will run 14.4. I want to increase my voltage to 15v. Now here is what I am currently investigating. I am in search of a wire diagram to find the feed signal from the alt to…

Now I was told is that you swap out your factory battery and replace it with a better battery and high out put alternator. Others mention that I should have two batteries one for the car and the other for the stereo and high out put alternator. What should I do? Also are Odyssey batteries good since I have a PCJ 12OO under the hood.

Replaced my RCA's today and now I have a terrible alt whine. Never had this happen before so Ive been trying to do some research and what the problems could be. Here's what Ive tried so far. I've disconnected the RCA's and the whine goes away. Plugged a factory wire back up with factory speaker and no whine Disconnected the 4 channel amp from the ground block and grounded it independently at another point. Since theres no whine with the factory speaker am I correct in assuming its nothing behind the head unit i.e. radio antenna, HU ground Any other suggestions? Also I did remove the remove and plug in the rca's while the system was running. Just…

hi, a week ago i decided try to make my Polk MM6501 active. all was going well until i went for a drive around the block and i noticed alternator whine. i am using my alpine 9887 for the processing and my sax100.4 for the amp. and then i have Monster 402 series RCA connecting the two. Now i am having trouble finding out the Cause. i re grounded the head unit to a better spot. I tightened my ground for the amp as tight as i could. i replaced the RCA's with some 8 dollar ones from walmart. and i still have it. and it is only my rear/Highs that have the whine. and i don't really want to have to add a filter because i heard that it affects the quality of the signal…

Got my alternator in and hooked up today, but had a few issues. First of all, the new alt came with a different plug. One of the wires was longer than the other three, and it was in the exact same place that there was a wire on the original plug (the original is a 4-pin, but there is only one wire leading into it. This one wire is in the same location as the one long wire in the new plug). I decided to just use the old plug, as the other three plugs on the new pin are insignificant. We fired it up, and it made a low humming sound and began to smoke. I smelled something funny, not necessarily burning but kind of like it. I have never seen an alternator smoke before, so it …

I have a 86 150 with a 5.0 in it. It came stock with a 60 amp alternator. My neighbor gave me box full of stuff he took off of a 94 mustang 5.0 H.O. One of the parts happend to be a stock 130 amp alternator. Since i need to get a bigger alternator anyways and strapped for cash i figured i can use this alternator. Its a direct bolt in, but the plugs are different though. My stock one has 2 plugs instead of the one plug. But one of the plugs on my wiring harness is the same style plug on the new(er) one. So wat i did is that i plugged(sp) in the plug that looked the same and hooked up a 4 guage power wire directly to my battery. Installed it and cranked it over, i…

Well yup, it just died on the way home from school today. I have a 02 Explorer XLT, it is supposedly a 130 amp stock alternator. A couple weeks ago/ month or two ago it had gold coils/ copper color coils. It looked really good like similar to new. Now it looks all faded and completly junked out. On the way to school, it was cold and i was playing the sub while it was cold. I am pretty sure I blew the sub. It was a cheap little ten but I still need to replace it as it was my brothers. And now the alternator can't charge the battery. I'm not sure if they have anything to do with each other, just adding that info. I am trying to convince my parents to let me get a high out…

what size alt is needed to run a aqx3500.1?

99 accord coupe 3.0L...pretty sure the alt puts out around only 100amp...i need to figure out if i will be able to power around 1300RMS for my fi BL..what all should i get? I got the amp, used to have 4 gauge thinking about running 0 gauge with the new set up..i need suggestions i really have no idea about this kind of stuff, extra batteries new alt??anything guys need help.. thanks!

So I dont know if I will need an alternator, at least I hope not. However, if I did I dont think it is possible to find an aftermarket one for the 4.2L as it is not a very common engine in the f150...anyone have any ideas (I would not be able to afford an alternator for a long time anyways, might have a new truck by then anyways...)

I've got a question for all of you in-the-know...... Running a couple of old-school Celestion AD15H's in my Tahoe, 'glassed in the rear corners after cutting out the inner rocker panels. Approximately 2.4cu ft each, with a 3"x8 1/2" port. I know these are rated at 600w RMS, but I'm pushing them with a Lightning Audio S4.500.1 at 2 ohms - supposedly putting out 250 watts to each sub, but sounds like it's making way more power than that - I'd guess closer to 400 watts to each sub, if not more. I'm using 4ga wiring from the battery to the amp rack under the Powerbass S-10's firing down betwen the front seats (nice midbass staging! LOL!). Have an old Kenwood KAC744 (40wx4@4…

I'm in the market for new alternators and I was talking to a guy about the Mechman 370a units. he was telling me they would never put out advertised amperage and they wouldn't even turn on at idle speed. I think its bs, but do any of you have experience with these alts?

can some one give me names of companys that make HO alternators? and a website or # cause iam in the process of getting a 220amp one.

Hi, I recently purchased a used Alumapro 15 Farad Cap. The guy I bought it from was using it with no relay or solenoid which Alumapro provides when purchased new. Am I ok with using it how he had it with no accessories? I've asked around but not many people are too familiar with The CAP. Thanks!

CAP50 - Alumapro 50 Farad Capacitor/Distribution Center Whats your oppinions on these? This guy I work with used to be a car audio installer, and we were talking today and he was swearing by this saying that is was better than a regular capacitor, better than a battery. He was saying it keeps your voltage at 14.4 no matter what. I was just wondering if anyone here has used them or has any first hand experience them offer up your oppinions. No I don't believe in capacitors Im not a cap fanatic or anything but he swore up and down it was different so I just figured it'd be worth it to get you guys oppinions.

I'm looking to make some buss bars out of aluminum. The buss bars will span two D3100's ~13" for each positive and ground, I was wondering what size and type of aluminum I should go with. I'm not sure how thick or wide of buss bars should I get? I was considering 1 Inch thick by 2 inches.

Hi Thomas! The surface mounted board has been damaged on your unit. They do not make this part anymore.. This is going require patience in locating another usable surface mounted board at about $75. to $100. extra plus the $119.95 already quoted. Do you want to authorize us to proceed? or at this point a $35.00 fee plus shipping is applied. (evaluation estimate fee). Please let us know your wishes on this repair. A repair time of two to four weeks is estimated after your authorization to proceed. arsehos quoted me 100$ Wrong So theres 60$ shipping $119.95 + 100 for parts. fudge i could have just bought another orion 2500D

Anyone out there know the rms on the American Bass vfl-175.1 OR has anyone tested one ?

Im a noob here but have been around car audio most of my adult life, lookin for a good option to power two sundown e-15 d4 in my sons ride. Have looked into many brands( hifonics,audiopipe,mb quart,American bass). Needs to be close to $200 to stay in his budget,must be power friendly to run off of a yellow top, stock alt, big three done, and four gauge power and ground. I have owned or heard all the amps listed above except the American bass, so I need options and am open to all advise. Thanks

Finally got an email back from Fi, and they recommended an American Bass VFL amp. First time hearing about these. I've done some searching and they sound great. The problem I have is where to get these at a good price and from a respectable company/person. The prices on the net are all over the place. I was initially set on getting a Sundown amp, but now these. Any links would greatly help, I need a Christmas present for myself

Whats to be said for American Bass amplifiers? Hows the quality? any known problems? certain ones to watch out for? Ive seen them used on numerous youtube video's but that really tells me nothing. Reason for this thread is there is a local craigslister who has the VFL 150.1 i believe it is and states its capable of 2900rms @ 1 ohm. Price is something I could easily swing. Ive had my eye on a refurb saz-3500d from db-r lately but for the price of this one it may just be a better route. Just for reference saz 3500 at db-r is about $780 and the VFL 150.1 is $250. Guy says he will demo the amp before the sale to ensure it works. Seems like a deal but again.. these amps are so…

ive made posts before about a kicker 2500.1, mtx ta92001 and hifonics xxv amps, but im not sold on them.For a while ive been trying to put together a setup and i think i got it. probably going to go with 2 15" BLs. And ive seen an american bass VFL 200.1 rated 3000 watts @13.8 volts, so I was like sweet, and i would like to know how much this amp runs for (price).and ill have all new electrical to back this amp up. Thanks ~ROB~

How does american bass stack up quality-wise to sundown? Specifically the xd3000 to the saz1500? Any help would be appreciated.