Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

any on here have any experiance with a phase linear uv8? i have someone local that wants to sell one for 150 and i figure that is a pretty good deal unless they are junk any one had one or heard anything with one

Basically i can tarde my Crunch GP3000D PLUS $400 cash for a Stetsom 7KD in almost perfect condition. Only problem is a slightly bend mounting tab. Right now I have a DVC 2 ohm 12" BTL to the GP3000D and want a nice, clean efficient amp. Next summer I plan to do a wall in my accord with 2 1ohm 18" BTLs to maybe this 7kd if the trade goes well. So for the time being, I will run the BTL off of the 7kd at 4ohms and still be running around 2500 rms. What do you all think about this trade one my end?

So while I was deployed to the middle east I acquired my car audio equipment. But now I'd like to know what amp alternators and batteries would work best for my system. I'll be running a 15 BTL off of a Soundstream DTR2200 which should push 2200 watts to 1 ohm. I'll also have a 4 channel Soundstream amp pushing 100 watts a piece to 4 6.5s in the doors of my Tahoe. It'll be ran off of a Pioneer deck. I've heard al lot about Optima batteries but have read mixed reviews on them. As far as alternators, I'm open to any decent brand that audiophiles have had luck with. Thanks in advance for the help.

When using 2 batteries, what wiring setup is the best way to get the most out of both batteries? Thanks in advance.

ok, im starting to upgrade my eletrical before i start doing my system. and i may add a second battery. ( i can fit a powermaster 3100d underhood ) and if add it. i was wondering if instead of running the positve and the negitave wire directly to each battery if i could run them to distribution blocks instead and go from the distribution blocks to the amps. i already have a 1/0 ground run and a 1/0 postive run. and i will get 1 sax100.2 @ 3 ohms. 1 sax 125.2 at 4 ohm. and a either a saz or sae1000d. so roughly 1500 rms total. but my truck only has a stock 90 amp alt. and i doing big 3 is 2/0 guage wire. ( it's welding wire)

opinions?

Here' s my current setup. Alpine 9885 (4V) Front: CDT CL-62 (160RMS) w/ Soundstream Rubicon 2.600 (180x2 @ 4ohm) Rear: CDT CL-69X (100RMS) w/ Soundstream Rubicon 2.250 (75x2 @ 4ohm) Fi BTL 12" D2, loaded (2000RMS) Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500 (2500 @ 1ohm) I want to add a duplicate set of CL-62 up front. The 2.600 amp is rated for 300x2 @ 2ohms as well. So I assume, wire the crossovers in parallel from the amp. + to + and - to -. That would yield a 2ohm load from the amplifier giving me how many watts per component at 4ohm each?

i got 2 amps (soon to be 3) and one of those things with the flashy light... i think they call it a cap.... forget what the does... but anyways. ive always heard that you should ground to the same location but its getting harder to mount all the components close enough that i can reach a common ground location. amps: kenwood excelon (600rms for the sub), kicker 250.2, (adding second 2 channel or 4 channel amp after xmas) Questions? 1) can i ground to different locations? if so how? 2) does the ground wire have to be like 18" long or less? can it be more? if i use a ground distro is there a max length in this application? 3) do you need more info on the install?

Looking for a good amplifier for 2 18'' ssd sub a good one but affordable too any suggestion of model?

i dont know if this is the right spot to post, but i was just wondering if there is anyone out in northern cali, the bay area, or near the vallejo/fairfield area, that has a O-scope that can charge me to set my gains on my amp. the right way?

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Anyone know where I can find the stock amp? Its the BOSE

k, i got a question, im getting ready to order my amp(s) and im considering getting 2 bxi 1608d, which would give 1100w RMS at 2 ohms http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12211_...+BXi+1608D.html i have the dual1 on the BLs, i was told i could only wire each at .5 or 2 ohms, or join them together and get 1 or 4 ohms? so i decided to take the "Easier" way and choose 2 amps, 1 per sub i am confused as to which would be the correct way f wiring these so the correct way to wire this would be option 2 since its a 2ohm load, but it says the woofer is 4ohms(crutchfield) but then the rockford has the 2ohm woofer at 1 ohm anf both diagrams are the same? so wat ohms would a dual1 be…

I have a 90 amp alt and will be driving a 12 btl with a dtr1 2200d soundstream amp that as a 200 amp fuse and a audiobahn a6601t that as 80 amp fuse i have a 3 farad cap and im going to buy a back up battery but i dont know wich one yet i will also buy an isolator but im wainting to see if i have to change my alternator...everything is going to be wired with 0 gauge and i changed my car battery ground and my motor ground for 0 gauge and added a extra wire from my alt to my batt. wainting for ya reply to get this thing loaded

Which puts more of a strain on alt. Pros and cons of extra battery or cap. I never plan on playing my system with the car off. Just trying to keep my voltage up. Big Three with Kicker Pkd1 coming monday. Stinger Voltmeter coming soon. 2001 Tahoe 2 Kicker Cvr's Dvc 4ohm wired down to 1 ohm Us Amps 4000 Xt and Crunch 1400 4 channel.

i was looking at the knukonceptz krystal rcas ... they are looking pretty nice for the price ... anyone have any experience with them? ... they look similar to the high end jl interconnects or the mid grade monsters

My brother has a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer (4.2L) and he was having problem with his factory head unit. He took it out thinking it was like other units where you can just make a simple swap and have a new head unit. It was a Delco/Bose unit and his Trailblazer has on star. I was told that you would need a different adapter (GMAH24B adapter) if you had onstar. Am needing to know which adapter does he need to buy to get his stereo working again? Or is there a way to bypass that stuff to get the stereo back on like you can do with the pioneer DVD head unit.

Hey everyone! im new to the forum, but i decided since i purchased my amp from ssa that this would be the forum id make my account on. ive got a sundown saz-1000d pushing 2 alpine type r 10"s at 1ohm along with a 3.5 farad cap. in a 1993 ford tempo I got bored one day and decided to do the big 3 upgrade with some JL 4 awg i had lying around in my room. for some reason i feel unsure about the wire i have going from the engine to the chassis, and was wondering if it'd be ok running a wire from the alternator cage to the chassis instead? if doing this is it still ok to leave the stock engine to chassis wire? is this even possible? or will i just run into electrical problems…

what is the advisable length of cable from battery to fuseholder for big three thank you

Hello, I am in the process of deciding what I should do. I used to have a 180A alternator and it went bad. I sent it back to get fixed, and they quoted me $170 to build it back to 180A, or basically to fix it. However, they said that for $100 more, they can rebuild it to 200A. (I took it apart just for fun when I sent it back to them, just for fun, and it looked like it was a completely stock alternator which I thought was weird, but then again, I don't know what, besides rectifier diodes, is used to make an OEM alternator a high output alternator. What I do know is that I must've paid close to $350 for it back in 2006.) Anyways, when my system will consist of, will be: …

Its time for me to install all my gear, ive installed few HU's here and there but never a full system consisting of multiple amps, subs, rear battery, and components. I was told to run a line of 1/0 from the front to the rear + batt terminal, and ground to the chassis of my car. Fuse few inches from front + batt. terminal. For the rear battery, do I fuse inches before the rear battery? How big of ANL fuses should I use, I will have 170 amp fuses in total from my amps, so maybe 200 ANL fuses will be good? Then from the rear battery, ill be running some 1/0 gauge to a dsitro block and will give me 2, 4 gauge outputs that I will connect to my amps, (AQ 1200d, and Kenwood KA…

ok i got a few questions: 1, i need help choosing a sub amp here is what i am thinking: us amps XT-4000D used us amps md1d Used ED 9.1 used/refurb kicker sx1250 Hifonics TXi1508D i am trying to not spend more then 300 on the amp and i need 1200rms at 1 ohm. Another question is this: on my car it is a single wire running for the alternator and the way it is suppose to be wired that it came with a 6" long run of 10 guage wire attached to the alternator to a point where then i have 1/0 guage running to the battery. could that 10 guage wire pose a voltage problem for 200 amps. And the last question. i am thinking of using kinetic batteries and they to use a hc1400 under the…

i finally installed my system and im looking to get another hu. I currently own a JVC KD-AVX2. I've been looking at other radios and i want a lil more out of my hu. I kinda want a screen, too. I've looked at these models and i cant decide what might be best... Clarion: VRX785BT, VRX585USB JVC: NX-5000, KD-AVX44J

well i have a amp (cactus 5kw) and it has four speaker terminals and im trying to hook up a 2ohm load to it. my question is if i hook 2ohms up to it will it be 2ohms or would it bridge it down to 1ohm?????? thanks

I have a 160amp alt, SHURiKEN SK-BT60 (Cranking Amp 1500, Amp Hours 60) under the hood and I want to run a saz1500 at .5ohm with 2 more 300 watt amps and have a stable voltage around 12+. Would 1 sk-bt20(20 AH, 850 Cranking Amp) be enough, what are your recommendations or thoughts? also 2 sk-bt20s would be the same price as 1 sk-bt35 (35 AH, 950 Cranking Amp)