Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hey everyone! im new to the forum, but i decided since i purchased my amp from ssa that this would be the forum id make my account on. ive got a sundown saz-1000d pushing 2 alpine type r 10"s at 1ohm along with a 3.5 farad cap. in a 1993 ford tempo I got bored one day and decided to do the big 3 upgrade with some JL 4 awg i had lying around in my room. for some reason i feel unsure about the wire i have going from the engine to the chassis, and was wondering if it'd be ok running a wire from the alternator cage to the chassis instead? if doing this is it still ok to leave the stock engine to chassis wire? is this even possible? or will i just run into electrical problems…

and I purchased an Eclipse XA2000 for my midbass/midrange. I'll post up pix and stuff when i get it. Has anyone played around with one of these 2-/multi-channel class Db amps yet? Oh and my batteries cell blew so I went ahead and purchased a optima yellow top while i was at it.

I have an '06 tahoe and I am planning on running a saz-3500d @ 1.33ohms and a sax-125.2. I have $400 to put towards an alt today, this Saturday I'll have enough to purchase: 2000-2006 Chevy Tahoe and Suburban V8 AD 270 Amp XP series alternator That seems to be the highest rated alternator I can find. Am I better off waiting and getting that or do any of you guys know of anything cheaper but just as good?

I am looking to get a new head unit. I wanted to ask the experts first. Is this one any good? 4 volt preamps. 6 channel preamp outputs. etc. http://outlet.crutchfield.com/p_613KDCX494/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X494.html?ssi=0&tp=13566&tab=features_and_specs

Ok so I have saved my jack and Im ready to buy an alt but wondering which one. I will be buying from mechman and want to know what u guys think. My system will include the SAZ-4500d, SAX-100.4, and maybe the SAX-50.4. Matt has a 200 amp (125 idle) alt BNIB by powermaster for 225 plus ship or a 250 amp rhino series (150 idle) BNIB for 299. I cant remember if the ship is included or not but the latter is part of his July sale. My budget tells me to get the 200 but I know I SHOULD get the 250 rhino. I need to buy this by the end of this week because I wont likely find these prices anytime soon anywhere else. Whatcha think fellas?

I am needing to upgrade my battery, but would like to know which setup is better since they cost roughly the same amount. First I will be running an American Pro VS-1407 and a Sundown SAE-1200Dv2. I plan to upgrade my starting battery. So would it be better for the car and the stereo to run a Duralast Gold up front and a Kinetik HC800 in the back OR to run only a Kinetik HC1800?

Hello I need a new complete 4ga. amp kit,and I come across the KnuKonceptz. The Amp kit will be used on a AudioQue AQ1200D.(1200x1) Whats the difference between these three complete 4ga. amp kits? Is it worth the extra cash,or is it a waste? $26.99+shipping http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KLM-K4 $39.99+shipping http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4 $51.99+shipping http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-AK4 Thanks

Focal FP 1.800 what do you think about it? have any of you used it? and what do you think of Focal amps?

Does anybody know what the max load Stinger 0 gauge wire has? I have my h.o.(150a) alternator to batt. wire fused at 300a, and I'm wondering if that fuse rating is too high for the wire and if I need to drop down to a 250a fuse. Is this even something to worry about? I just wanna make sure the wire is fused correctly just in case something happens.

and man was it a pain in the ass but for $110 brand new I cant really complain. Well my old battery went out on me cuz it was some crappy energizer battery and it was under full trade in warranty sooooo I pulled it out jumped in my dads lil 86 civic and rolled away got there and asked if I could upgrade the energizer for the optima at a discount. They told me I could get full value for the energizer applied to the optima yellowcap ($80) plus I got another $10 off because they price matched checker auto =). So I got the battery took it home and this is where the trouble started... I plopped it into its place and tried to through the stock terminal connections on there... y…

i'm looking for a amp to power 2 fi bl 18s. well right now im looking at the audioque 2200 for 389 shipped and the audiopipe 3000d for 386 shipped. what other amps should i look at for bout $400? also i'm looking for a amp that has a warranty.

I was checking out this amp. I remember hearing nothing but good things about their stuff years ago, nothing recently. but I hadnt heard of SSA, sundown, Fi, or... either seen it usually for 260 and up, ikesound has it for 199. Ive seen ratings listed anywhere from 990-1150 watts RMS into 1 ohm. their website as a link to there amps but is loading a blank page for me right now, so I also cant find out if it has a SSF? they any good? put out true ratings? underrated?

Hey guys, looking for a nice headunit for my 2005 Prius (don't judge) Looking to do a sub install soon enough as well. Any suggestons on a nice headunit? Budget around $150

So I should be getting my sub in today. I think. I never got trackng lol. Anyway I wont be able to do my Big 3 until friday.....will it be ok running my sub and amp on stock electrical until then? In case you havent seen my other posts I will be running 1 IA Lethal injection 12 on a SAE-1200D @ 2ohm for 600wrms. What do you guys think? I want to hear this sub bump but dont want to risk messing up my amp. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jeremy

Ok, so iv been looking at power capabilities of wire sizes and im only running 4 gauge to the back of of my trunk. Now according to 12volt, with the length of the wire it will only be able to take around 600 watts rms of power. Would running my amplifier at 1 ohm, 1500 wrms, stress/overheat the wire? If this is true, maybe ill just run my amp at 4 ohms, (375 wrms) until i can run some 0 or 2 gauge wire once i buy it.

Just ordered my ssa xcon 15 and was wondering if anyone has any recommendations as far as buying a pre built box or building my own??

Got a new build in works on Acura TL. Need amp recomendations for pure SQ app using very high end drivers(listed in my subwoofer thread). Rms over 1000 needed other than that just looking to upgrade my current bsheeted 1650 at 14.4 with >92 s/n ration, 83 db chan sep, and <.05%thd from 20-85ish. Also have to use an OEM integration because Acura thinks there stereo is perfect the way it is... Looking at JL's, the RF 360.2(or other versions) and a couple from audio control(all good shit). Basically looking for anybody who has installed or heard systems with these or other high quality amps and OEM int units. I think my choices would suffice but always considering bett…

What is the best way to decide on a head unit? My budget is no more than $250. I want something that looks clean, functions well, and sounds good too. Does anyone have any experience with the Alpine iDA-X303?

whats up yall. in my system i have us amps 400, esx q404, two ssd12's, a duralast battery upfront and an optima red top in back. for fuse i only have the one in between the two batteries and it is 80a. thats the only one the local car shop had left at the time of install. my question is should i go ahead and order a bigger fuse? does it really matter? and should i have another fuse somewhere in my setup? the esx is internally fused and the us amps has very good internal protection. anybody with thoughts on this?

I'm building a new box soon for my rl-p 18, and was just thinking of a better way to wire my sub(not wiring it to a different load, just wiring it to one ohm differently. Its a d2 and my amp is a saz1000d. the way its wired now, its just like the image on the 12 volt, wired parallel. the problem is that where the pos and neg go into the sub from the amp, the terminal isnt large enough to cram two 10 gauge wires in. In order to get it in i had to shave a bunch off of it to fit them in. Is it possible to just run one pos from the amp to one on the sub, then run the other pos on the amp to the other pos on the sub since it is a mono amp? thanks

I'm in the market for a new processor, and I'm hoping a new one came out, or got updated. Any news?

i know the amp will put out alot of power with out having to strap batteries. im running 1/0 guage and im putting a sundown nightshade d1 15" sub in my s10 blazer im using the system for steet loud

i was looking at the knukonceptz krystal rcas ... they are looking pretty nice for the price ... anyone have any experience with them? ... they look similar to the high end jl interconnects or the mid grade monsters

Well yesterday i bought a Eclipse avn5500 for 25 bucks. Well after a quick call to eclipse to make sure it wasnt stolen i got bored and decided to hook it up in my truck. Well after I booted it up it said insert map disk.. well that's where i am stuck I am finding them on ebay for about 100 bucks any body have a spare floating around? Also what is the opinions of this H/u?

So, I have come down to 3 sets of comps to do my final choice from. And up til the time I do my final choice, I would like to have some suggestions what to look for in amps, that would do these three 2-way kits justice. They are: DLS Iridium 6.2i Hertz MLK165 Morel Elate 6 I'm planning, at least finally to give the woofers a minimum of 200-250 clean watts to play with, so I've been contemplating running a 4-channel bridged for the woofers, and a separate 2-channel amp for the tweeters. For now, what I'm looking for is sweet matches between front system and amps, nothing more. Budget, is not fixed, but as little as possible and still be a nice match for the comps.