Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So I need help, I have a 2008 ford escape and currently I have my system(2 12"s) hooked up to the stock radio through a line output convertor. I believe that my system would sound twice as good if I was to install an aftermarket head unit. MY Budget is around $100 - $150 and In case you don't know what the escape's retarded radio looks like here is a link... http://fc00.deviantart.com/fs30/f/2008/104/b/9/Tribute_08_pic6_by_Fourthmeal.jpg I am not a car audio professional by any means and I most likely will have to get my radio installed by somewhere most likely abc warehouse. I know I'm going to need a wiring harness and a dash kit. So any advice as to what head unit …

i'm looking for a amp to power 2 fi bl 18s. well right now im looking at the audioque 2200 for 389 shipped and the audiopipe 3000d for 386 shipped. what other amps should i look at for bout $400? also i'm looking for a amp that has a warranty.

how much ah of power do u think i would need to run (2) soundstream d-tower 3400 watts and (1) sundown 100.4? by the way im using kinetik cells

http://www.head-fi.org/t/655315/v-moda-vamp-verza-metallo-discussion-feedback-reviews-pics-crowdsourcing-ideas Looks very interesting...

I came across Powersurge batteries on the net and after reading over the page and talking to the owner they seem to be pretty legit batts. Im posting this because I want to hear from people who have used them, knows someone who has used them and so on. What do you think of these batts? Legit? Pros? Cons?

Hey guys,I'm purchasing a few things for my 2003 GTI and I was wondering how much of a difference (quality wise) a head unit would be. I was suggested Alpine CDA 9887, but was wondering if it would really improve the sound, or should I just stick with something cheaper, since I am in school and kind of strapped for cash to get a head unit with all that stuff. What I plan to purchase: Helix HXS 136 Esprit Sundown SAX-125.2 Fi Q12 Diamond audio D3 800.1 or Sundown SAZ1500D(used) Cheers!

ok i got a few questions: 1, i need help choosing a sub amp here is what i am thinking: us amps XT-4000D used us amps md1d Used ED 9.1 used/refurb kicker sx1250 Hifonics TXi1508D i am trying to not spend more then 300 on the amp and i need 1200rms at 1 ohm. Another question is this: on my car it is a single wire running for the alternator and the way it is suppose to be wired that it came with a 6" long run of 10 guage wire attached to the alternator to a point where then i have 1/0 guage running to the battery. could that 10 guage wire pose a voltage problem for 200 amps. And the last question. i am thinking of using kinetic batteries and they to use a hc1400 under the…

Is the RCA out on the slave amp still live or is it defeated along with the other functions IE: gain, LPF, subsonic, etc.? Reason I am asking is with the RCA lengths and the way my amps are installed is it would give me a cleaner look if I could use the RCA out on one my slave amp to the RCA in of the other strapped pair's master. Here is a pic, I want the top 2 amps to be the master and slaves on bottom. I want to run RCA under and between amps rather than on top. I have nothing working right now so I cant check it for myself and dont want to get that far and find out it wont work. Cliffs: does the RCA output of the slave amp still work when strapped? Thanks!

Basically i can tarde my Crunch GP3000D PLUS $400 cash for a Stetsom 7KD in almost perfect condition. Only problem is a slightly bend mounting tab. Right now I have a DVC 2 ohm 12" BTL to the GP3000D and want a nice, clean efficient amp. Next summer I plan to do a wall in my accord with 2 1ohm 18" BTLs to maybe this 7kd if the trade goes well. So for the time being, I will run the BTL off of the 7kd at 4ohms and still be running around 2500 rms. What do you all think about this trade one my end?

I am looking to rebuild/convert my CS130 alternator to a high amperage unit. This is for the car and system listed in my sig. What are the limits this case can handle. I came across a 200 amp stator. The biggest rotor I've come across is 140 amp. Will these work together. To go along with this I was thinking about using a heavy duty Delco voltage regulator set at 14.7v, and a Delco rectifier with six 70 amp avalanche diodes. Any thoughts of what the output of this combo would be? Should I get a smaller pulley as well? Thanks.

I have a question if anyone can help answer it. this is the problem i'm having. i have 2 of the fi 18 bl's. i'm running them with 2 of the mtx 7801d amps. 1 per sub. this is the part that gets weird. i have all thing hooked up but not the remote wire to the amps yet. the subs start freaking out. when the gains and the db boost on the amps are turned all down the subs still move a little without signal from the deck yet. as soon as you start to increase the gains the subs do it again. like i said NO signal from the deck. i have to use the db boost on the amps, because as soon as i hook up the bass knob the subs freak out. i'm kind of lost. when i have hooked up the remote …

just looking for feedback on these can get for cheap

So i replaces my stocker with a yellow top. I want to run a second battery as well, unisolated. I was advised against using the stock one with the yellow top. Ive been seeing builds where people do though. Are there issues here that i teally need to be concerned with or not? I believe the stock is an AC. Delco. Eventually when cag allows it i will match batteries but would this be ok for now?

sorry wrong forum will repost under speaker

Anybody have any experience with the Zapco iforce line? Good, bad, indifferent?

I want to make 2 buss bars, one for ground and one for positive. I'd like to mount them to opposite sides of the same piece of wood. No pieces of metal will touch, so would this be ok?

I currently have one d2 ohm rl-p 18 and a saz1000d in my lincoln towncar, but i am about to get an izuzu rodeo due to me getting it for free and because my lincoln gets 10 mpgs. lol. but what i want to know is if i get one more d2 ohm 18 and one more saz1000d, could i strap the amps and power the 18's at 2 ohms? im confused with the strapping thing. thanks.

Is it me but I just bought an hd radio and it sounds terrible. I thought it was suppose to be cd quality. I will agree than the sound stage widens and more clarity with the highs and lows. But it's also accompanied with an electronic (synthesized) sound. Kind of like a subtle robot voice in the background. Which I don't experience with analog signals.

wonder if I should install my phoenix gold bass cube? we have to play a song supplied from the judges for spl and sq categories. You guys think it would make a difference?

Any ideas about this unit, i have someone wanting to sell it for 100 what's ya'lls thought? Also how does the rear input usb work? Here's the specs http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020DXZ775/Clarion-DXZ775USB.html?c=3&tp=5684&tab=features_and_specs Chassis Size Code IEJ CEA-2006 Compliant Yes RMS Power Output 20 watts Peak Output 53 watts RMS Power Bandwidth 20-20kHz Preamp Outputs 6-channel Sub Preamp Outputs Yes Preamp Voltage 5.8 volts Display Color Variable Key Button Color Variable EQ Bands 3 Sound Shaping Type DZ-Enhancer EQ Wireless Remote Yes Steering Wheel Control Compatible --- Security Detachable face Flip-Down Face Motorized Parts Warranty…

http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/amp20w.htm Figured a small lead acid 12v battery or a bunch of D batteries wired in cseries/parallel for a power supply , MP3 player as an input and $8 walmart polypropelen speakers. going on my sunfish in the Show Off Section. Part Total Qty. Description Substitutions R1 1 39K 1/4 Watt Resistor C1,C2 2 10uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor C3 1 100uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor C4 1 47uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor C5 1 0.1uf 25V Ceramic Capacitor C6 1 2200uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor U1 1 TDA1554 Two Channel Audio Amp Chip MISC 1 Heatsink For U1, Binding Posts (For Output), RCA Jacks (For Input), Wire, Board

So i am in a debate between the Fi BL 15 and Fi BTL 15, the deciding factor is wether or not i will have the electrical support for the amplifier. I am wondering if i would have enough electrical to keep up with the Hifonics BXi2610d to run on the BTL... Here are my specs... Electrical: Stock Alternator 105 Amps Stock Battery Up Front Big Three in 1/0 One run of 1/0 to Trunk Power Acoustik 5.0 Farad Cap. ( start criticizing, it will be gone in the new setup) I have been running 1100rms at 2-ohms with little noticable dimming while sitting still, but none while driving. I plan to add a Kinetik 1200 in the rear with the new installation. My voltage has never dipped below 1…

I've been keeping an eye out for amps lately with the intent to buy a sax-100.4 but looking at crutchfield they have a p450.4 which is rated at 60x4 for a pretty good price. I looked at ampguts and it seemed to look pretty sparce inside, but I'm no engineer so what do i know? I would run this amp with the front 2 running generic 6.5 speakers on the front and the rear 2 bridged to an id10v3 D2. What do y'all think? Thanks John

So, I have come down to 3 sets of comps to do my final choice from. And up til the time I do my final choice, I would like to have some suggestions what to look for in amps, that would do these three 2-way kits justice. They are: DLS Iridium 6.2i Hertz MLK165 Morel Elate 6 I'm planning, at least finally to give the woofers a minimum of 200-250 clean watts to play with, so I've been contemplating running a 4-channel bridged for the woofers, and a separate 2-channel amp for the tweeters. For now, what I'm looking for is sweet matches between front system and amps, nothing more. Budget, is not fixed, but as little as possible and still be a nice match for the comps.

can someone suggest an amp to run 2 L5 12's dual 2 ohm in ported box right now they are running of a RF t501bd but they need way more power any suggestions