Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Anyone have one of these or read any good reviews of the new reference amps from Soundstream they could link me to? Back in the day they were the some of the best around. Seriously looking at the REF4.920.

So i replaces my stocker with a yellow top. I want to run a second battery as well, unisolated. I was advised against using the stock one with the yellow top. Ive been seeing builds where people do though. Are there issues here that i teally need to be concerned with or not? I believe the stock is an AC. Delco. Eventually when cag allows it i will match batteries but would this be ok for now?

Thanks any way please delete

My friend has a audiobaun htc1300 amp. He will sell me for 20 bucks. Only thing the inputs are ripped out. So I was going to get it refurbished. Good idea bad?

Is the RCA out on the slave amp still live or is it defeated along with the other functions IE: gain, LPF, subsonic, etc.? Reason I am asking is with the RCA lengths and the way my amps are installed is it would give me a cleaner look if I could use the RCA out on one my slave amp to the RCA in of the other strapped pair's master. Here is a pic, I want the top 2 amps to be the master and slaves on bottom. I want to run RCA under and between amps rather than on top. I have nothing working right now so I cant check it for myself and dont want to get that far and find out it wont work. Cliffs: does the RCA output of the slave amp still work when strapped? Thanks!

i wanted to buy the new kenwood double din head unit ... it has a 5v rca output ... my problem is my rockford amps have an input sensitivity up to 4 volts ... what will happen if i run the 5v rca output to the amps? ... if i tune the amps with the h/u to say 75% of max volume will the voltage output be less (approx 3.75v)?

So I am trying to figure out which LOC is best. I know about the 3SIXTY, CleanSweep, and new MS-8. I'm not really looking for anything that complicated. I want to retain my factory steering wheel functions, sat. radio, bluetooth func. etc. I really believe in the modo, K.I.S.S.=Keep It Simple Stupid. Because of this I was dead set on the Audio Control LC6iBUT just found out about the re-Q5. Now I'm unsure which is best, and more importantly best for me. 1st the re-Q5 is just a bit more than the LC6i but still with-in my budget. The fact that it is said to even out the bass output at all volume levels seems like it could be usefull if the factory h/u tunes the bas freq. do…

I have a question if anyone can help answer it. this is the problem i'm having. i have 2 of the fi 18 bl's. i'm running them with 2 of the mtx 7801d amps. 1 per sub. this is the part that gets weird. i have all thing hooked up but not the remote wire to the amps yet. the subs start freaking out. when the gains and the db boost on the amps are turned all down the subs still move a little without signal from the deck yet. as soon as you start to increase the gains the subs do it again. like i said NO signal from the deck. i have to use the db boost on the amps, because as soon as i hook up the bass knob the subs freak out. i'm kind of lost. when i have hooked up the remote …

Alright Everyone Its Been A While Since Ive Posted On Here. Im Saving Up For A Sundown Audio Amp And Basically What I Wanted To Know Is Has Anyone Ordered A Refurbished SAZ3000D Amp From db-r ? I know there reliable but can i trust refurbished stuff ? What Is It That You Do To a broken amp when you get it back? New Everything ? Thanks.

optima redtop battery terminal posts what are the dimensions. mostly just need diameter.

I recently bought a kinetik hc2000 from amazon.com, price wasnt too bad at all.. now im looking and there out of stock for a while, dont know when they will have more. shipping is estimated at 1-2 months,.. i cant wait that long lol.. Is there anywhere else you guys know of to purchase these battery's at a good price?

just looking for feedback on these can get for cheap

I currently have one d2 ohm rl-p 18 and a saz1000d in my lincoln towncar, but i am about to get an izuzu rodeo due to me getting it for free and because my lincoln gets 10 mpgs. lol. but what i want to know is if i get one more d2 ohm 18 and one more saz1000d, could i strap the amps and power the 18's at 2 ohms? im confused with the strapping thing. thanks.

I'm looking for broken amps that anyone is parting with. I'm a newbie tech looking to fix amplifiers.

I'm trying to figure out what electrical setup I need to support a 3000+ watt system. I'm thinking a DC power 270A H.O. Alternator, XS Power XP3000 battery as a secondary, as well as 1/0 through out , of course I could be off with this assumption.

I am gonna be installing an AVIC-N2 in my truck (the single din flip out). Anyways, how do I go about making it so I can have video without all the B.S. J

Hey guys just trying to get a little info about some electrical from more experienced people. Im looking into getting a new alt, i have a 2005 chevy silverado 5.3L. Now i see iraggi has a 300 amp alt and dc power has a dual bracket kit that comes with a 185 amp alt, all in the same price range which would be best for me? Run a single big alt or have the 185 to the amp? Also i have a xs power d3400 as my starting battery, but i was wondering if i put a 900 cca as my starting battery could i put the xs power in the back and be ok? Cause i read something like you cant have two different sized batterys in the vehicle, i plan to run a crescendo 3500, just trying to see my best…

Ok, say I want to use a simple toggle switch to control a relay for whatever reason. Do I grab +12 from any source (battery, ign switched, etc), run it through the switch, to the relay coil, to ground, and hook up whatever I wanted to power using the switched terminals? Thanks, ~Trevor

How do I connect my subs to my Amp to Bring it down to 2ohms? The amp rating is 200x4ohms 400x2ohms 800x4ohms Bridging the amp L- R+ brings the amp to 800x4ohms So I was wondering how to do I connect it to bring it down to 400x2ohms. Right now it's connected R+ R- and I don't know if that's 200x4ohms or 400x2ohms. Please help.

I am putting in 3 external batteries in the back of my suv. The batteries are obviously going to be grounded to the chasis. I have been confused on whether it would be better to ground the amps to the chasis as well or if it would be better to run the ground to the batteries. The batteries are each going to have 2 runs of 1/0 to the chasis. Which is a better idea?

I have an 01 tahoe with 2 15's kicker cvr dvc 4 ohm wired down to 1 ohm. Us amps xt 4000 1500rms@1ohm and a crunch 1400 4 channel and a 4 farad performance teknique power cap. red top under hood and db electrical ho alt. Have not did the big three yet. At idle my voltage drops to 13 or even 12 when bass really hits. Will the big three help with 0 gauge wire. Should I buy a powermaster D680 or D975 and get rid of the cap

hello i need amp wt these specs for my jbl gt 4 1000 watt 2 woofers please suggest me a good a amp 125W/2 ohms bridged mono (bridging into 4 ohms). Amp should have 4 channels each rated for 125W/2 ohms.

just wondering if there is a way i could tell the difference between the saz 1500d with the new heatsink design and the old. thx-phil

Lately its been real hot here...over 100 several times. I park my Tahoe outside in the heat and usualy only drive it on the weekends. I have an SAZ1500D. After its been sitting for a few days ill hop in there and the bass seems to be all the way up.(As if the gain knob is all the way up). Ill unplug the cable at the knob and nothing changes, I'll go to the back and disconnect it at the amp and it lowers itself back down allowing me to control it again. Real strange to me and it has only started happening since this damn heat has hit. Any idea's? I would like to think its something wrong with the knob/wire but who knows. Edit: it is a very random thing, it doesn't do this …

I was going to write a giant post, but figured this will be better Vehicle - 2006 Ford F-150 XL What I plan on doing: Fi BTL 18" power by Lanzar Opti6000D 8 Pioneer 4-way 280W Max 6x8s on 50Ws each Supporting upgrades: HO Alternator, something with a high idle output Isolator splitting between stock battery for car and 3 batteries in bed of truck Big 3 with 0 Gauge 0 gauge from alt to all batteries Fuses throughout system Voltage meter in dash If you assume I know how to correctly make a ported box, and how to wire stuff, is there anything I am missing or should do in order to make the system more stable? I plan on using 0 gauge for grounds, but feel like I should ask her…