Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Discuss Head Units, Amplification, Processors, And All Electrical System Inquiries Here.
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So, I have come down to 3 sets of comps to do my final choice from. And up til the time I do my final choice, I would like to have some suggestions what to look for in amps, that would do these three 2-way kits justice. They are: DLS Iridium 6.2i Hertz MLK165 Morel Elate 6 I'm planning, at least finally to give the woofers a minimum of 200-250 clean watts to play with, so I've been contemplating running a 4-channel bridged for the woofers, and a separate 2-channel amp for the tweeters. For now, what I'm looking for is sweet matches between front system and amps, nothing more. Budget, is not fixed, but as little as possible and still be a nice match for the comps.
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So i am in a debate between the Fi BL 15 and Fi BTL 15, the deciding factor is wether or not i will have the electrical support for the amplifier. I am wondering if i would have enough electrical to keep up with the Hifonics BXi2610d to run on the BTL... Here are my specs... Electrical: Stock Alternator 105 Amps Stock Battery Up Front Big Three in 1/0 One run of 1/0 to Trunk Power Acoustik 5.0 Farad Cap. ( start criticizing, it will be gone in the new setup) I have been running 1100rms at 2-ohms with little noticable dimming while sitting still, but none while driving. I plan to add a Kinetik 1200 in the rear with the new installation. My voltage has never dipped below 1…
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Now that the "Digital Conversion" has happened, can I receive the 10 or so digital channels in the car? I've see some of the digital converter boxes that run on 12 volts. What I"m really trying to get at is "How well can you receive the signal while in motion?" . I've seen it used for things like tailgating, where the vehicle is stationary. If possible I wanna be able to watch the local news on my way home from work or catch the Simpsons, etc.
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i know the amp will put out alot of power with out having to strap batteries. im running 1/0 guage and im putting a sundown nightshade d1 15" sub in my s10 blazer im using the system for steet loud
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Hi have a problem have 2 saz 3000 amp strapped who master and slave, ven conect the master slave cabel i get alternator sound, just only ven strapped, anybody have a sulution??
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What is the best way to decide on a head unit? My budget is no more than $250. I want something that looks clean, functions well, and sounds good too. Does anyone have any experience with the Alpine iDA-X303?
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Hey guys just trying to get a little info about some electrical from more experienced people. Im looking into getting a new alt, i have a 2005 chevy silverado 5.3L. Now i see iraggi has a 300 amp alt and dc power has a dual bracket kit that comes with a 185 amp alt, all in the same price range which would be best for me? Run a single big alt or have the 185 to the amp? Also i have a xs power d3400 as my starting battery, but i was wondering if i put a 900 cca as my starting battery could i put the xs power in the back and be ok? Cause i read something like you cant have two different sized batterys in the vehicle, i plan to run a crescendo 3500, just trying to see my best…
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Lately its been real hot here...over 100 several times. I park my Tahoe outside in the heat and usualy only drive it on the weekends. I have an SAZ1500D. After its been sitting for a few days ill hop in there and the bass seems to be all the way up.(As if the gain knob is all the way up). Ill unplug the cable at the knob and nothing changes, I'll go to the back and disconnect it at the amp and it lowers itself back down allowing me to control it again. Real strange to me and it has only started happening since this damn heat has hit. Any idea's? I would like to think its something wrong with the knob/wire but who knows. Edit: it is a very random thing, it doesn't do this …
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Thanks any way please delete
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http://www.head-fi.org/t/655315/v-moda-vamp-verza-metallo-discussion-feedback-reviews-pics-crowdsourcing-ideas Looks very interesting...
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Hey guys, looking for a nice headunit for my 2005 Prius (don't judge) Looking to do a sub install soon enough as well. Any suggestons on a nice headunit? Budget around $150
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just looking for feedback on these can get for cheap
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as of now my gains are set to the max preout voltage of my headunit (just got a dmm the other day), so pretty conservatively. but now that I am going to set them more aggressively with the dmm, i want to make sure not to send a clipped signal to either my mids or subs, but for both, i'm going to be using the full rated RMS of my amps. so my question is: is there any way to know if my amps will be able to do rated without clipping? if you just have to guess based on the amps, the amps are: a TMA 320.4 (4-channel from JL's entry level brand) and a Massive P1000.1 (at 4 ohms) no, i don't have an O-scope
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sorry wrong forum will repost under speaker
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Does anyone have or know about valor flipouts or touch screen, I've read good things but i need more info http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12167_...r+DTS-660W.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9375_Valor+ITS-702W.html just some examples
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Any ideas about this unit, i have someone wanting to sell it for 100 what's ya'lls thought? Also how does the rear input usb work? Here's the specs http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020DXZ775/Clarion-DXZ775USB.html?c=3&tp=5684&tab=features_and_specs Chassis Size Code IEJ CEA-2006 Compliant Yes RMS Power Output 20 watts Peak Output 53 watts RMS Power Bandwidth 20-20kHz Preamp Outputs 6-channel Sub Preamp Outputs Yes Preamp Voltage 5.8 volts Display Color Variable Key Button Color Variable EQ Bands 3 Sound Shaping Type DZ-Enhancer EQ Wireless Remote Yes Steering Wheel Control Compatible --- Security Detachable face Flip-Down Face Motorized Parts Warranty…
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Do you guys think this amp is good or its a piece of shit Audiopipe AP2004 2000W 4/2 Ch. Bridgeable MOSFET Amplifier I am going to be pushing a 18" Fi BL dual 2 ohm none of the options included. Thanks Guys
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I've been keeping an eye out for amps lately with the intent to buy a sax-100.4 but looking at crutchfield they have a p450.4 which is rated at 60x4 for a pretty good price. I looked at ampguts and it seemed to look pretty sparce inside, but I'm no engineer so what do i know? I would run this amp with the front 2 running generic 6.5 speakers on the front and the rear 2 bridged to an id10v3 D2. What do y'all think? Thanks John
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So i replaces my stocker with a yellow top. I want to run a second battery as well, unisolated. I was advised against using the stock one with the yellow top. Ive been seeing builds where people do though. Are there issues here that i teally need to be concerned with or not? I believe the stock is an AC. Delco. Eventually when cag allows it i will match batteries but would this be ok for now?
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have you guys had any experience with these? you kno the ones with the lil 3.5" screen. ive been thinkin bout buyin one so was wondering to get some feeback on them. thanks
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I have an autotek mm1400.1d on a DD 9512g wired at one ohm. I set the gain using the pinned tutorial above. I bought the amp used, and my voltage hasn't dropped below 12.5 volts yet.. it usually hovers around 13-13.5 volts. Also, the amp doesn't seem to be getting too hot either. Could the problem be that the amp is damaged? Thanks
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I was going to write a giant post, but figured this will be better Vehicle - 2006 Ford F-150 XL What I plan on doing: Fi BTL 18" power by Lanzar Opti6000D 8 Pioneer 4-way 280W Max 6x8s on 50Ws each Supporting upgrades: HO Alternator, something with a high idle output Isolator splitting between stock battery for car and 3 batteries in bed of truck Big 3 with 0 Gauge 0 gauge from alt to all batteries Fuses throughout system Voltage meter in dash If you assume I know how to correctly make a ported box, and how to wire stuff, is there anything I am missing or should do in order to make the system more stable? I plan on using 0 gauge for grounds, but feel like I should ask her…
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I just installed a hifonics Zeus zrx3000.1d. I was wondering if a 4 gauge big 3 upgrade would help with the light dimming and give the amp more consistent power? Any ideas? If so, I saw on knukon
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Audio Savings - Deal of the Day Nice little deal for a head unit!
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