Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So I just purchased the Audioque AQ3500D amp and an Optima Yellow top for the front. I will be doing 2 runs of 1/0AWG wiring, a 300A Iraggi alt, and a second battery in the rear. I only want ONE battery for the trunk, and right now im torn between the Kinetik HC2400 and the XS Power D3100 (which im kinda leaning towards). Which of these batteries do you guys think I should run on this setup? Also, Im looking at the XS Power VCM. Will this electrical setup be sufficient? I want to be able to run this amp full tilt daily with little to no voltage drop. Thanx.

Has anyone ever ordered a refurbished amp? How did it work out for you? And would you buy one again?

2004 Explorer 4.0 Yellow Top Big 3 will be done in 1/0 when installed Stock 135A Alternator 2 15" Icons Sundown 1500 Sundown 100.4 Couple quick questions before I get a alternator & everything installed: 1 - How do I calculate how big of an alternator I need? Ive seen a couple different way but whats most accurate? Also have a 100.4 2 - Would a 200A alternator and a yellow top suffice for the two amps to stay above 13v at idle? I can try 250A if need be. 3 - Anyone ever use qualitypowerauto.com to get an amp? I want to upgrade to 200A for no more than $300 if I can

I have a problem starting my car (Toyota Celica, 1.8l engine) at -20C / -4F using a HC800 as a starting battery, and I'm trying to find out if the battery is dying or if the efficiency of a HC800 at this temperature is so low that it actually has problems starting a 1.8l engine without being busted. My car don't have any stereo at the moment, the only thing unoriginal is the cd player and the battery under the hood. So what do you all believe, is the battery busted or is it alright? edit: I'm using the car for longer trips, minimum 30 min trips, so the alternator should charge it sufficiently.

When i try to turn on my truck it crancks but then it doesnt go on.. I try again and it clicks...if i get a jump it starts and it shows normal voltage...i unplugged my system but it still keeps on doing it...plus i have the big 3 and the fuse from alt to batt melted...not blown just melted the casing...

i want one of these amps for a fi btl 15. which would be more reliable and push out more true rms watts? are there any other amps that would be good for a btl in the range of $300-$400? thanks

I'm wondering if there are any differences between the 4200 and 4300 besides the pandora feature? Also does the 4200 charge/play music from a iphone 4? Thanks in advanced.

Hey guys. I just purchased a American Bass VFL 150.1 with the Gold Chasis. What do you guys think about the amp in General? I am going to be powering my FI 15" BL @ 1 ohm with it..What you guys think that setup will do?? I like the way the amp looks and from all I have read about it it is a powerful dude..

Ok this is the 2nd time in about 6 months this has happens. First time I just wrote it off and replaced what was needed.. Now I'm wondering why.. I noticed my voltage acting funny as if my alt wasn't charging. Pop the hood and I've melted the wire that I have put between alt and battery. Like I said...2nd time same spot. I have a pos db alternator 220a ho alt. I used knu cca 1/0 for a pretty short run between alt and bat positive. Fused with a 250a fuse. Battery is a kinetik hc2000. 1st time 2nd time Both times the fuse did not blow. The fuse holder isn't next to anything hot enough to do that kind of damage. Now I only drive this vehicle maybe three times a month so …

i am buying a fi ssd 12" soon and ive been looking at alot of amps. ive heard good things about the autotek mean machine 1500d but i would like more opions before making my desicion. my budget is 150-250$.

So I just upgraded from a factory HU that I had connected to my Sundown 2000D with a LOC. With my factory HU, all I had to do was bring the volume to 12 (75%) and then get my bass knob and increase it 4 clicks. That was loud bass and loud mids/highs with no distortion. Today I just got a Pioneer DEH-P800PRS. Installed it, took out the LOC and connected the Rockford RCA cable to the Subwoofer output. Reseted the headunit to default (by pressing the small button on the front of face plate), started listening to FM, CDs and even my iPod and realized there is no bass. I checked the LPF and its on default 80hz. I havent touched any filter on my amp. I even thought I had to inc…

My girlfriend keeps getting shocked when she gets out of the car and touches the door Could a bad ground cause this?

I’m considering changing the amp for my FI q 12. may sound picky, however, the fan is kind of annoying. Even when I had it mounted all the way in the back of the old Jeep, it was noticeable. I am planning on mounting the amp for the q under the driver or passenger seat in this build and would like some input. I’m sure it will cost a little more. Not sure how much I can get out of the Taramps, or if a trade of some sort is possible somewhere. Seems to have plenty of power though.

so i have decided on the speaker for my new setup, it will be an ssa xcon 18 in a sealed enclosure, but now i need to find an amp to run it. i have been doing a lot of research and have come to see what kind of input i can get from people who may have used this equipment before to steer me in the right direction. i have a limit of about 300 for the amp, i realize this will not get me the best amp to run the sub, but i am ok with this. i have composed a list of the amps within my price and power range, but am open to all suggestions and comments to help me decide on the right amp. thanks for all your help in advance. BRZ1700.1D - Hifonics Brutus Series 1700W RMS 1-Channel …

Ok so I understand that if you dont want to deal with upgrading your alternator, you put more reserve of power (aka batteries). However, I understand that if your voltmeter tells you that voltage is below ~12v, then you are running into problems. I have a question regarding this. Let say I play my music and I see voltmeter says 11.9v but I already have my main battery upgraded, and an extra battery. At that point of having 2 batteries, will my problem be easily fixed with ANOTHER (a third) battery or would I have to get an H/O alternator? Reason Im asking is because a group 31 is ~$300, and an alternator for most cars is also around that price. However, I have a BMW and g…

Regretably, my Denon DCT-3500 is dead and gone. However, I really like the idea of 5 channel amps but being that "5" is one character they are really hard to search for. For ease of installation, space savings, and for a dedicated set of drivers a 5 channel fits real well (read the woman's car). Thought I would start a list and ask that everyone list anything else that they might use. Denon DCT-3500 -- 35wx4 @4 80wx1 @4 NeXt VRZ 500.5 -- 70wx4 @4 240x1 @4 Kicker KX700.5 -- 40wx4 @4 200x1 @4 Alpine MRV-F450 -- 30wx4 @4 150wx1 @4 SoundStream Van Gogh VGA800.5 -- 50wx4 @4 200wx1 @4 So far the NeXT is winning by specs, but thought there has to be other options.

Hey guys. I got an Orion 2500D and a Critical Mass UL12. The CM UL12 is DVC (1.5ohm). The shop set it up at 3 ohms, so with the gain just under clipping, it sounds decently loud, but nowhere near as loud as I wanted it (somewhere like 1400-1500 my guess). I was so disappointed I wanted to go 2 CM UL12's with a Memphis 4k Mojo, so I purchased a HO alt from Excessive Amperage (200A). Decided to wire the Orion down to .75 while I waited, just to see how my electrical holds up. Well, the gain is down MUCH farther than it was wired at 3 ohm, and it hits harder, but now, my lights dim like crazy where it never did before. Is it the inefficiency of the amp at .75 that's c…

Which do you guys think would push a pair of fully loaded dual 2ohm BL 15s better between the 2amps here; the MM4000.1D(2000rms x 2 @1ohm or 4000rms x 1 @2ohm) or 2-SAZ-1500Ds(Id prefer to run them strapped @0.5ohm)? Electrical system would be able to sufficiently run either or.

Hi, I was buying a pair of KnuKonceptz Krystals, but a few days ago I heard something bad about them. someone told that Knus were made by the same manufacturer of Stingers, but was a kind of second line. Is that true? Are they any good? What would you recommend to me instead of them? Ps.:My last ones were Monster XLN301. Thanks!

Was looking around the pioneer site and I came across THIS man it looks sweet I cant wait to get it and replace my 880 PRS. Looks like it going to be a nice deck for SQ and wont need any external processing. The HIGHEST quality components, the best Ipod set up to date, ahhh you get it... just read about it

Hey guy don't know if you've heard anything about the JBL GTO 1400.1 amp. I was thinking of changing my older PG Tantrum for it. I'm currently driving a JL 13w7 with the PG but I think it's not putting out the wattage it says it does, I mean the fuse rating is only 80 amps compared to the JBL 160 amps. What do you think?

Arc Audio MEQ-30 PPI DEQ-230 Kicker KQ30 Phoenix Gold Tantrum EQ30 Phoenix Gold Ti EQ30 Crossfire cq-30.2 Memphis 16-EQ30 Eclipse eq2102 Zapco eq30 AudioControl EQT AudioControl DQT AudioControl DQX Anything: http://www.behringer.com/02_products/group...smid=1&lang=ENG Image Dynamics idq31 Home audio ones that can be modded over to 12v. So I don't know which one to choose. Or rack or panel style. How extensive is the 115VAC ---> 12VDC mod ? My dream would be the Image Dynamics ... but, if I can get something from HT such as API / Rane / Alesis. Sorry I'm in a rush so I'm forgetting some details, but any insight is appeciated. - Steve

I'm looking for a good head unit that has time alignment. Unfortunately, this will be my first head unit purchase (used stock with special wiring harness) and as such I have no idea where to start. I really love the look of the Pioneer 800PRS, but they're discontinued. I do care a lot about aesthetics, but I want something that sounds great and will let me run my ID CTX65cs active and use time alignment, PEQ, and all the other normal goodies. My budget is about $300, but possibly can be extended for the right equipment. I don't have any problem buying used as long as it is "good as new".

well my batterys i have is 1d4300 in the front and 2 3100 in the trunk i have aso a mechman 270 alt for my car my voltage reads in the front 14.1-14.2 but since my voltmeter in the back and off my amp it shows at the highest 13volts why could that be i just charged the batterys as well so idk any help

Sorry for the this vs. that shit but I would like to know if there is any/much difference between these two products. I'm in the market for 2 new batteries and these 2 brands are fairly similar in price and within my budget. I'm wondering if one or the other is superior, I know Kinetik makes a good, quality product but have no experience with Shuriken whatsoever. If anyone has experience with both or just perhaps knows something about them and could shed a little light here, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm also opening a poll here so if you could vote AND give a short explanation WHY you voted for whichever brand that would also be helpful. This is also for similarly …