Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I have a problem starting my car (Toyota Celica, 1.8l engine) at -20C / -4F using a HC800 as a starting battery, and I'm trying to find out if the battery is dying or if the efficiency of a HC800 at this temperature is so low that it actually has problems starting a 1.8l engine without being busted. My car don't have any stereo at the moment, the only thing unoriginal is the cd player and the battery under the hood. So what do you all believe, is the battery busted or is it alright? edit: I'm using the car for longer trips, minimum 30 min trips, so the alternator should charge it sufficiently.

hey guys i need some help for my new setup in my 2000 Celica here is what i got 80amp alt Fi Q w/cooling saz1500 zx350.4 Im waiting on my 1/0 awg to come in so i can upgrade the big 3 but what else would you guys recomend? Second battery? H/O alt. I dont have a ton of money so keep that in mind..

can i power car amplifiers in home using a lab dc power supply?

I was wondering, are Audioque amps comparable to Sundown amps?

Ok so I understand that if you dont want to deal with upgrading your alternator, you put more reserve of power (aka batteries). However, I understand that if your voltmeter tells you that voltage is below ~12v, then you are running into problems. I have a question regarding this. Let say I play my music and I see voltmeter says 11.9v but I already have my main battery upgraded, and an extra battery. At that point of having 2 batteries, will my problem be easily fixed with ANOTHER (a third) battery or would I have to get an H/O alternator? Reason Im asking is because a group 31 is ~$300, and an alternator for most cars is also around that price. However, I have a BMW and g…

I’m considering changing the amp for my FI q 12. may sound picky, however, the fan is kind of annoying. Even when I had it mounted all the way in the back of the old Jeep, it was noticeable. I am planning on mounting the amp for the q under the driver or passenger seat in this build and would like some input. I’m sure it will cost a little more. Not sure how much I can get out of the Taramps, or if a trade of some sort is possible somewhere. Seems to have plenty of power though.

Ok, i've never ran multiple and have come to a barricade here so fill me in. 1 battery up front, 5 batteries in the rear. 400A for bass, 90A for mids\highs. Total Amperage fuses needed- 490A ~ 500A. Ok, first off- I'll have 3-4 runs of 3/0 wire going from front battery to rear battery bank. Right now, i just have 1 3/0 wire ran which is fused with ANL fuse and no fuse at other end because everything is dismantled right now. With 3 runs, i was going to attempt to use a bat terminal that had 3 1/0 connectors on it. I run the alternator to one of those leaving 2 left. The factory electrical wiring goes into the other slot leaving one left. I'm assuming i'll use a distro blo…

So i just put a new battery on my wifes yukon like 6 months ago...and i turn it on now and the voltage drops very rapidly..i turn on just the switch with the truck off and the voltage goes from 12.3 down to 10.6v is it the battery or is my alternator not charging it right? Its the stock 160a alt...

When i try to turn on my truck it crancks but then it doesnt go on.. I try again and it clicks...if i get a jump it starts and it shows normal voltage...i unplugged my system but it still keeps on doing it...plus i have the big 3 and the fuse from alt to batt melted...not blown just melted the casing...

So I just upgraded from a factory HU that I had connected to my Sundown 2000D with a LOC. With my factory HU, all I had to do was bring the volume to 12 (75%) and then get my bass knob and increase it 4 clicks. That was loud bass and loud mids/highs with no distortion. Today I just got a Pioneer DEH-P800PRS. Installed it, took out the LOC and connected the Rockford RCA cable to the Subwoofer output. Reseted the headunit to default (by pressing the small button on the front of face plate), started listening to FM, CDs and even my iPod and realized there is no bass. I checked the LPF and its on default 80hz. I havent touched any filter on my amp. I even thought I had to inc…

Ok this is the 2nd time in about 6 months this has happens. First time I just wrote it off and replaced what was needed.. Now I'm wondering why.. I noticed my voltage acting funny as if my alt wasn't charging. Pop the hood and I've melted the wire that I have put between alt and battery. Like I said...2nd time same spot. I have a pos db alternator 220a ho alt. I used knu cca 1/0 for a pretty short run between alt and bat positive. Fused with a 250a fuse. Battery is a kinetik hc2000. 1st time 2nd time Both times the fuse did not blow. The fuse holder isn't next to anything hot enough to do that kind of damage. Now I only drive this vehicle maybe three times a month so …

Hey guys. I got an Orion 2500D and a Critical Mass UL12. The CM UL12 is DVC (1.5ohm). The shop set it up at 3 ohms, so with the gain just under clipping, it sounds decently loud, but nowhere near as loud as I wanted it (somewhere like 1400-1500 my guess). I was so disappointed I wanted to go 2 CM UL12's with a Memphis 4k Mojo, so I purchased a HO alt from Excessive Amperage (200A). Decided to wire the Orion down to .75 while I waited, just to see how my electrical holds up. Well, the gain is down MUCH farther than it was wired at 3 ohm, and it hits harder, but now, my lights dim like crazy where it never did before. Is it the inefficiency of the amp at .75 that's c…

Thought this was pretty awesome, hope it hasn't been posted yet. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-80PRS

Hi, I was buying a pair of KnuKonceptz Krystals, but a few days ago I heard something bad about them. someone told that Knus were made by the same manufacturer of Stingers, but was a kind of second line. Is that true? Are they any good? What would you recommend to me instead of them? Ps.:My last ones were Monster XLN301. Thanks!

I have made two schematics. The second one is revised and I think it should work. I also have a few questions. 1) Which is a better setup? 2)What size fuses would go in each fuse holder? the amps have a 150 and 500 amp fuse rating and the alternator is 260 amp.

I have two batteries a yellow top duralast under the hood and kenetik hc1800 with a us md2d on 1 15" fi bl and a pioneer gm-6400 for my highs; stock alt< no battery isolater; i"m putting out 13.2 volts i'm trying to put 14v +. How can i make the that happen? Wrong information: it"s puttin out 14.4v but when the sub comes in its drops to 13v - 12v - 11v; so what can i do to correct this?

Which is the best solder type?

so i have decided on the speaker for my new setup, it will be an ssa xcon 18 in a sealed enclosure, but now i need to find an amp to run it. i have been doing a lot of research and have come to see what kind of input i can get from people who may have used this equipment before to steer me in the right direction. i have a limit of about 300 for the amp, i realize this will not get me the best amp to run the sub, but i am ok with this. i have composed a list of the amps within my price and power range, but am open to all suggestions and comments to help me decide on the right amp. thanks for all your help in advance. BRZ1700.1D - Hifonics Brutus Series 1700W RMS 1-Channel …

i was wondering if any one could give me some input on what they think good components are other than focal

Has anyone ever ordered a refurbished amp? How did it work out for you? And would you buy one again?

well my batterys i have is 1d4300 in the front and 2 3100 in the trunk i have aso a mechman 270 alt for my car my voltage reads in the front 14.1-14.2 but since my voltmeter in the back and off my amp it shows at the highest 13volts why could that be i just charged the batterys as well so idk any help

I dont want you all to just check Sundown cause of the Forum, i want it based off of reliability, and durability, THEN vote on favorites ;P

My girlfriend keeps getting shocked when she gets out of the car and touches the door Could a bad ground cause this?

I'm looking for a good head unit that has time alignment. Unfortunately, this will be my first head unit purchase (used stock with special wiring harness) and as such I have no idea where to start. I really love the look of the Pioneer 800PRS, but they're discontinued. I do care a lot about aesthetics, but I want something that sounds great and will let me run my ID CTX65cs active and use time alignment, PEQ, and all the other normal goodies. My budget is about $300, but possibly can be extended for the right equipment. I don't have any problem buying used as long as it is "good as new".

Arc Audio MEQ-30 PPI DEQ-230 Kicker KQ30 Phoenix Gold Tantrum EQ30 Phoenix Gold Ti EQ30 Crossfire cq-30.2 Memphis 16-EQ30 Eclipse eq2102 Zapco eq30 AudioControl EQT AudioControl DQT AudioControl DQX Anything: http://www.behringer.com/02_products/group...smid=1&lang=ENG Image Dynamics idq31 Home audio ones that can be modded over to 12v. So I don't know which one to choose. Or rack or panel style. How extensive is the 115VAC ---> 12VDC mod ? My dream would be the Image Dynamics ... but, if I can get something from HT such as API / Rane / Alesis. Sorry I'm in a rush so I'm forgetting some details, but any insight is appeciated. - Steve