Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I did the big 3 last weekend to my 2000 dodge dakota and was woundering about a wiring configuration. I currently have two 0 gaguge runs from the frame to the engine block and two 0 gauge runs from the battery neg. to the frame using the same post on the frame used in the frame to engine block runs. I have one run of 0 gauge from the alt. to the battery positive and a run of 4 gauge from the alt. to the fuse box which was place there by the guy installing the alt. Two Questions: 1) Should I run a 0 gauge from the engine to the battery negative, or should my currently setup be ok? 2) Should I remove the 4 gauge from the fuse box and run it directly to the pos. battery pos…

Hey, we are trying to pull a run of 4 gauge wire through the firewall of a 4th gen Camaro. Are there any known hole in the firewall that this wire could fit through or any good places to make one before we go drilling around.

has anyone ever used it and is it a good headunit?

So I have been given two fairly new amplifiers that have been treated poorly. My brother asked me awhile back to install stereo equipment in his car. So I did. I set the gains with a DMM and everything was fine. Well my brother decided that he wasnt get the output he wanted...I'm guessing. And turn the gains WAYYYYY up. Long story short I have two amps that arent in protection mode but I dont get any power from the speaker outs on the amp. One isnt really worth messing with but the other I would like to save. Any suggestions. I dont have the model numbers at the moment but one is a pioneer mono that puts out 300rms<one I want to save. The other is a profile that puts o…

I'm installing an amp for my speakers and I'm just wanting to know what I should do for the crossover settings. I have 6.5" Alpine Type S components up front and 6.5" Alpine Type S coaxials in the back. What should I use for the input levels at the front (Full or HPF) and at the back (Full or HPF)? Lastly, what should the frequency be for the front and the back? I'm just going passive btw. Thanks in advance for any help!

anybody know any 2 or 4 channel amps that are 18v capable?

just got an 07 tahoe so getting all my things together to make a buy. what head unit do u guys recommend that has nav and back up camera. looking for around 500 bucks. i have an android phone btw. truck is non bose what parts will i have to buy for the factory parts to work. pac? i was going to go with knukoncepts rca and power wires. any other options? subs to be installed are 2 12 ssa icons and sundown amp.

what are your thoughts on these amp?

Ordered the Pio AVH-P8400BH 2 Din Deck and the MLA module. Hoping the Pio is a solid performing HU and does pretty good for me with the Ipod connection. Anyone here using one? Price I got was 475.00 new from Crutchfield with free priority shipping. Also ordered the MLA module from Missing Link, to help with my voltage maxing at 13.8. Would love to see it go up in the 14.8-15.1 range, should be good for my 3 D3400s. My EA Alt is installed and sitting at constant 13.8-14.1 so I know it's the car limiting the charging range. Should be fun playing when I get back from business. Hopefully my second sub will be there when I get back from business, and all should be good.

so i have a nissan murano 09' with out the bose or the navi, and i want to install a head unit, but the problem is that the factory unit is connected to this screen that shows what track is playing and the temprature and what not, similar to this http://image.trucktrend.com/f/suv-of-the-year/2009-motor-trend-sport-utility-of-the-year-contender-nissan-murano/11099865/2009-nissan-murano-interior.jpg. but since the im still using the factory my speakers are playing base too and its really annoying, so is this just some way i can actually put in a head unit? or should i just get better speakers? let me know if yall need more details

I am wanting to upgrade my system to 2000-3000 watts. I don't know to much about batteries and such and im not sure how many/what size batteries i would need to stay at about 14 volts. Also my truck puts out alt puts out 105 amps, Would i need a HO alt? Just trying to figure things out so i can figure out how much this is gunna cost me.

I just got my amp yesturday and whenever I power on my indash or change songs the sub has like a popping feedback that comes through. I have been trying to find similar problem on here and always sounds like people point out a cheap indash as the problem (my indash is a cheap kenwood lol). What are your guys opinions.

Anyone out there know of any 2ch or 4ch full range amps that can handle 17v? Most seem to be 15.5v-16v MAX. Dont really like the idea of running half a dozen step downs Thanks, Am

while i was driving yesterday my car started to make a strange clicking noise under the passanger side of the dash. earlier that day i had stopped by a sears auto center where a friend works and hooked the car up to their battery diagnostic and ran my system almost full volume for about 30 seconds. i noticed the voltage never dropped under 12 and the amperage draw stayed around 80-90 at the highest. i stopped at in and out and then drove the car home, the clicking started right as i was pulling in my driveway, the radio went on and off a bunch and lights on the dash went crazy. i have a redtop, kicker 1/0 a sundown 1500 and a re sx 15 (dual 2). it's in a 1995 accord 2.2…

will it work? we tested it at 12.8v on a 1k hz tone, and it did 300w rms x 2 @ 2 ohm. its rated at 500w x 2 @ 2......that was at 12.8v tho.

anybody know what the power rating is for the zed audio kronos is at 1ohm?

Looking for a dealer for us, zed, or even sundown amps close to SE pa. Please pm or e-mail me.

I recently purchased a DXZ785usb to replace my panasonic CQ-C7203U with ipod connector. Here is a list of the problems I have run into. 1) The source unit doesn't recognize my ipod. Ipod is a bit older but software is up to date. So I am just going to sell the Ipod... bought an Iomega 120 ext HD and installed all my music on it. 2) USB off source unit isnt enough to power HD alone. I bought this all in one car charger with a USB port. HD runs and is recognized by the source unit. If you switch the source to CD/Tuner etc.. and jump back to USB/MTP the unit will have to completely read the HD before playing music again, I have 20 GB used atm and takes about 20-30 se…

so I just got the eclipse AVN 6620 installed and I have one major problem, WHITE NOISE!! The deck emits a constant white noise no matter what the volume. Its not volume influenced. I can have the volume on 0 or 80 and its still the same constant white noise. Me and my installer have tried everything from changing the grounds, rca's, ect... The only thing that stops it is unplugging the rca's from the headunit. Any ideas to stop this??? Is it a bad unit you think??? please help! thanks Eddie

Ok so i have been looking to a H.O. alt for my car and i cant find one anywhere. I have a Nissan Quest 1996.

Ok, redoing my setup in one of my vehicles. Equipment is 1 JL 300/4 and 1 JL 1000/1. Hooked everything up and right off the bat, the low voltage light comes on the JL 1000/1 and the 300/4 won't come on. Checked voltage at amps and I'm getting 12 and both. Now, the only thing I did different from the previous install was I DID use a relay on the remote wire, this time I didn't. The deck is a Pioneer and I'm wondering if the remote wire on Pioneers can't support 2 amp turn-ons. Any one got any suggestions?

Well, couple of problems. First one I'll address is the simple wiring issues. I've got my amplifier, it's a 4 way amplifier, that puts out 115 RMS @ 8 ohms to each the left and the right. I'm running two Kenwood 6982IE 6x9 coaxials, rated for 90 RMS each, off the left side right now - speakers are 4 ohms. The right side doesn't work well, it gets fuzzy and frequently cuts out - separate problem I'll look into fixing later. Now, based off this left side alone, I'm wanting to run two infinity 6.5" coaxials in my front, each rated to 60 RMS. Each has a 2 ohm impedance. Should I run these off the same channel here, and would that get me enough power? Or, alternatively -…

hey guys. i need some input on what kinetic battery to use in the trunk. i have a stock alternator and my setup will be pushing around 2500watts. i plan on using a yellowtop up front. so my question is how many watts should my kinetic in the trunk be? the power cell calculator on the site says i should use (2) 1400watt power cells. which will be costly to me. any cheaper solutions? do i really need that much? input please and thank you.

Does anyone know much about this amp? I had a hc100 us amp but was kind of dissapointed by the performance of it ,so hope this one aint the same

I installed an Avital Avistart 4400 today and I'm having a simple problem. I am just using the alarm features, so I did not hook up anything for remote start. Upon testing the unit, when I ope the door, it activates and the display on the remote shows door intrusion. I cannot get this to stop even after disarming the system. Do I have to have the remote start hooked up so it will read an ignition cycle and reset the alarm so my LED stops blinking and remote shows normal status? Thanks in advance.