Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Got everything install fired it up and was getting a distortion sound then turned the radio off and heard the subwoofer thump sound! Didn't start the engine just was checking to make sure everything was working! Also had the volume at 0. Going to check a different amp this weekend and start moving wires around to see if something is loose..... Any ideas?

Looking to upgrade my head unit and I'm between Kenwood ddx376bt or Pioneer avh-501ex

Should i change my mosconi gladen one 120.4 amp for 2 mosconi pico 2 please advice, my main concern is overheating of this pico 2 since i dont have information about that small little thing i do plan to listen lots of hours of music in my car when i am travelling and this pico 2 doesnt have any fan or any heat dissapation at all , i consider changing my mosconi gladen 120w x 4 to two mosconi pico 2 i will save space that way and since my speakers are rated at 75w i dont need 120w power. If someone ever used pico 2 tell me is it overheating is it suffers from any problems...

Alright, so I've done some searching and can't find any posts similar to what I'm dealing with. The closest I can find on google is something referring to the battery current sensor. Aparrently its only on 2005+ Tahoes though, but it senses draw and adjusts alternator charging output accordingly. Mine is a 2000, and when I went through my Big 3, I saw no such sensor as expected. The issue I'm having is a lot more noticeable now that I have a Stinger volt gauge in the dash (Installed same time as new HO Alt, 9/11/19) When I start up, I'm at around 14-14.3v.. after warmed up, 13.9v is consistent. Now... I've notice multiple times that when I am coming to a stop, or slo…

Alright guys, quick question. Maybe a stupid one, but I would appreciate some solid feedback. So, I am currently running an SAE-50.4 (2 ohms per channel) & an SAE-600D (1 ohm). The big 3 and all other power cable is 4AWG OFC, and I also have an XP750 AGM as my supplemental. I am going to be upgrading to an SAE-1000D v2 pretty soon, and I would like to know if my 4AWG is going to be enough to support the current required to run the system. I estimate the current load the cable can support, at the length of runs I have (10-12ft), is somewhere around 160-170A. As it stands, the maximum current draw will be 150A, worst case scenario. Should I spend more …

Hello, I have a older Blaupunkt Arizona head unit and has volume issues. All by itself left side channel goes silent. Also, if I adjust the volume dial it doesn't respond very well, it will start to run away in the increasing direction, I have to hit the mute button to get it to stop. I bought another new faceplate thinking that might be the problem, no effect. Still does these annoying things. Anything I can do myself? Unit not worth taking in and paying more than what it is worth. I'm an aircraft mechanic, so I can use a multi-meter and have good mechanical skills. Thanks in advance,

I want to buy and install an amplifier for a new sound system for a car. I'd like the amplifier to not clip, and I'm willing to sacrifice a little bit of dynamics for extra loudness when I want it. In the world of music production we regularly obtain these goals with an effect called a brickwall limiter. It's basically a special type of compressor that guarantees that the sound never passes a certain threshold. Do they make car audio amplifiers with brickwall limiters (or at least compressors) inside them?

So i got a double din installed on my car and after about a month my system would just randomly turn off(headunit would power off and same with subs and amp) it did it once then would reboot. I took it in they changed the wire harness and the ground. It fixed it for about 2 days i then decided to change my negative battery cable and that fixed it for a few months and then it came back and i noticed that with the head unit turned off that there was a bass note from the subs playing real faint until i turn the bass knob it gets louder. What could be the issue on why my head unit turns off by its self faulty head unit, bad amp need help asap.

Few days ago i went to pick up my suv from my aunts house since ive had it there stored for few months. On my way back i notice my “RE XXX” tweeters stopped playing, so i thought for some reason they got damaged not knowing why when they were playing fine before vehicle being stored. I removed them and tested them just incase a wire was pinched and they didn’t play so I tossed them. I installed some new alpine type x tweeters yesterday that i pulled out from my truck and tonight on my way to work they stopped playing, it looks like they also got damaged. Im using a pioneer avh x4700bs on active mode, highs setting on 5k,12 slope and have my hertz hdp4 setting on full. I …

Would like to know what you guys prefer and why. The HU seems to have more precise control and you can change the slope as well. If using the HU crossovers, should the amp be set to full?

I have a Boston acoustics pro 12.5 sub(4 ohms) in custom box at Boston specs (sealed 1” mdf). It is rated at 1200w rms and iam now using a 600w rms(Hertz class D). Although it sounds pretty good, cant help wondering how much difference a 1000-1200w amp would sound compared to the 600w amp. Need advice from people with experience trying different amps with the same sub.

I am working to expand our amplifier offerings, while staying high quality, somewhat unique, and affordable. First up looks like a class-A/B 6 channel. No crossover network, individual gains, 150watts x 6, will keep footprint as small as possible for the design, similar appearance to the current models. Feeling out interest as it will effect the total amps I put into production. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ As a side note, I am considering a 2-channel of the same line, but the demand for 2 channels right now are so low. Would not really want to build them if they are going to sit for a while. Just curious on any inp…

i was hoping M5 (or someone else) might know of a place locally that does a mix of electrical work. i had a customer drop off a large LED sign board that runs off 220V mains with seriesed 110V inverters into about 88 separate micro controller boards that run off 24/12/5.6V and control small segments of RGB led's. the panel blows breakers upon power up. its beyond the scope of work that we do at my shop and wanted to give the customer and idea of maybe where to go.

So how many people with the power amps or even punch amps use the punch eq ? I see Rockford and even JL audio kinda push this rebranding of bass boost but do people use it? Setting one up this Sunday for my lil brother he said the guy he's getting the power t1500bdcp tomorrow from has the remote that controls the bass boost and used it all the time and said the subs sounded amazing so is it really that bad?

I recently purchased a old school zed made Autotek 220mxi. The guy sold it cheap as he had no clue on car audio worth. The amp powered up and worked well for about 3 hours of moderate use. It was powering 2 RE Audio SE-X 12D4s. I had it wired at 2 ohm stereo mode (2 ohm load each channel) which I thought the amp could handle. I ran a good 4 gauge power wire and ground (knukonceptz) with a 60AMP inline fuse and the gain was at maybe 40% max. Bass on stereo set at 0, loudness on low setting. After about 3 total hours of use spread out over 2 days it quit. When it died you could smell the "dead amp" smell of burnt electronics and it blew the inline fuse as well. Just for kic…

I picked up a used SAZ1500 for $50 off Facebook Marketplace, guy thought it didn't work. Figured I'd send it for repair, and be into a great amp for under $200. Got it home, fiddled with it, and found that none of the controls work, but if I run a signal through the slave input, it does indeed work. So it's stuck in slave mode. Does anyone know how to get it out of slave mode? I'd love to be able to set the gain properly, dial my system in the way it should be done. AND.... with proper electrical, can this amp be run at .5 ohms? Good ventilation, dual runs of 1/0 to dual 1/0-1/0 reducers at the amp, 250 amp alternator. Am running it now at 2 ohms to my (2) dual…

(System: Orion Cobalt 3500.1 w/ Soundqubed HDS 15" 1200RMS Sub & Stinger 80Amp isolator) Hey y'all, I ain't been on for bit cuz 99% of my system build/install's done, just few small tweaks, but bout to be all finished after installing 2nd batt. & Isolator to hopefully help some dimming & other small electrical anomalies...but, I found myself unfortunately participating in a YouTube comment section debate & began to 2nd guess my choice of isolator size. A YouTuber said his 40Amp isolator did great w/his 2000W amp set up, when a "keyboard cowboy"/YouTube troll stated, "this is impossible cuz watts come from volts x amps & 12x40 is 480 not 2000" I al…

copper can handle more current but if you up size the aluminum its just as good, right? say you need a grounding block or a bus bar - the copper bar is quite a bit more money but its smaller, if you dont care about size an aluminum bar that is 30% or so larger can handle the same current; is there any reason to go copper over aluminum?

it got very cold around here and like many others i just bought two new batteries for my truck, these are just factory but AGM upgraded. now in an audio system lets assume i have enough wiring to transmit power with negligible losses from under hood to back seat. if i have two batteries at 1150CCA up front and put an older battery in back on the amp rack (say a 900CCA agm) will i run into issues with having a less than new battery back there? lets say the battery tests out at 80% of its rated cca (so still a decently good battery i think), when the amps pull power will it have a similar effect as a cap can have in that the alternator is now trying to charge the batter…

I'm new here so bare with me. I have 2 power acoustic mofo 124x 12 inch 4 ohm dual voicecoils subwoofers running at 1500 watts rms each (3000 watts rms together). They are both wired parrel for 2 ohms each and wired to together at the amp for 1 ohm. I have a skar audio RP-4500.1d mono block amplifier pushing these subs. My question is do I need to upgrade my charging system to 2 high output alternators and 2 batteries along with the big 3? I did the math with the ohms law and just for my audio system alone I need 450 amps. I figured two 300 amp output alternators should be plenty. Am I right or is this overkill? If I'm wrong help me and gave me some advice on what I shoul…

Hello Friends,I don’t understand from music and the need a help. I have one subwoofer-Pioneer TS-W311D4 1400 watts-dual 4 ohm ,12 inch ,I need an amplifier for it. I like one but I don’t know it is ok for the speaker. It is Pioneer 1600 w ,Class D Digital mono Mosfet from bestbuy. Model-GM-D8601 up to 800w rms -1 ohms up to 500w rms -2 ohms Up to 300 w Rms - 4 ohms It is ok ? and how to wire The speaker ?Parallel or series? My car is Toyota Highlander Hybrid. what kind of wires kit I need? thank you and merry Christmas

I have a problem with my Pioneer aftermarket radio turning off then back on for no reason. I first thought it may have been loose wiring and hitting bumps in the road was causing it until it started happen while sitting still. I had it sent to service center and they couldn't duplicate it. Then had it sent directly to Pioneer and they supposed replaced motherboard. That didn't help. So sent it back and they ended up replacing the unit. Same thing happened again with new unit. I checked all the wiring and everything was tight. Even replaced some butt splices. When I mean turn off then back on, I'm referring to the unit turning back on to my station. It wasn't resetting its…

Hi Looking for some help with this please - on whether I should expand: I have the following setup: - Sony headunit (not sure what model but it its only 25w x 4 with ~2v preouts - Alpine MRV F300 - Alpine SPX 17PRO component set - Alpine SBR S8 4 subwoofer I have connected the SPX 17 PRO set to two channels of the F300 amplifier. I have bridged the other two channels of the F300 and connected this to the subwoofer (only 150W RMS). I don't play my music at or near the full volume often. Would you recommend adding a monoblock to the system (maybe Alpine M500) to drive the amplifier? I don't often have anyone in the back seat so have not put another set in t…

So I have the LC2i LOC. It says to use a 1 to 2 amp fuse for the power. Is this really needed? Someone I spoke with told me they don't think its required because the fuse on main power should act as fuse. And if an issue occurred then it should pop the fuse on the main power line. Is that correct? Just wondering if I should go find a 1 amp fuses?

Hello, I heard that Mazda 3s computer systems cannot handle new HO alt's, so that being said I wanted to just fabricate a new bracket for a secondary alt instead, but there is no possible room to put another alt. so I was thinking of just getting more batteries instead, is that a good choice? or should I investigate and try to get a new alt anyway. Right now I'm currently running 1800 rms with stock alt big 3 all 1/0 100% OFC and XS power XP750 and getting pretty bad voltage drop, I'm going as low as the upper 11s . and my amp gets a little hot (i think that's why). I plan to upgrade to 3500 rms, so that's why i want a new alt. HELP! thanks!