Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

im thinking about getting 2 zcon 18's next week, but for now i was going to go with Hifonics amps until i can afford a better amp. Was gonna run each Zcon on a Brutus 2400.1...They are supposedly CEA certified. Is anyone running Hifonics amps?? Are they worth a crap?

Had my 4 channel amp sand blasted with sugar sand today, know i just need to decide on a new color. I'm leaning towards a blue to match the the gauge color of my 06 civic ex, but could could do it white and have LED tubes to high light it. Just not sure.

I have been looking around for some suggestion for electrical upgrade on a budget? I have been told to do a big three for voltage drops and light dimming but i am still getting some mixed reviews about that. I was wondering if running a second battery would help with light dimming and voltage drops. Im not really looking to spend more than around 2-300 at this time. Im running a zeus 3000 watt amp to 2 12 inch pioneers. Car is a 2002 honda accord dx.

I have been debating on how to ground multiple runs of 1/0 for my upcoming install. So I figure weld some 5/16 bolts to a length of steel channel bar, then weld that to the body of the car. this would give multiple point fors grounding and I wouldn't have to rely on screwing ring terminals to the sheet metal and risking it coming loose.

got a new truck coming and I think I will build something big in it. (big to me anyways) 2013 Ram Longhorn I will be keeping the stock HU so I need OEM integration. 3 way components up front rear door speakers 1 12inch sub I think I will be using ZED amps (leviathan,draconia,and minotaur) I need a processor to run all this...I don't care which one, I don't care if I use the processor Xover or the amps Xover.......but I would like TA. thanks

2volt headunit vs 4volt headunit which is better? what are the benefits of a high voltage sub output? I currently have a 2v alpine that i'm thinking of replacing I'm thinking with my current setup that I can use a little more power but idk If i get a 4v, will i have 2 retune my amps? Will I end up just turning my amps down with a 4v, and have the same results as b4? Would it be better to put that money towards a big amp? (money is rare)

So i got my 3500 v2 and hooked it up (post pics in just a min) im planning in running it on my SA-8 v2s for now @ 4ohm until i get my 0ga and mojos in. it should be be fine cause its not pulling more current than 4ga can handle right? also i ran it at 1 ohm for a moment and carefully increased the volume and i realize its not any louder than my saz-1000d was and watching my voltage im not getting any drop at all at idle. could there be something wrong with why its not pulling any more current than my saz-1000d was assuming it should be pulling way more? just confused at why.

Hi 99 Oldsmobile Alero Yellow optima up front and one in the rear Powerbastards 220amp alt knu 1/0gauge (+ and -) front to back, big3 as of today. no fuses. problem persists Im getting a drop from 14.4 to as low as 13.2 when I bring the car to a stop Sometimes it stays at 14.4 when I stop but most of time it dont 13.2 is about as low as it gets, its random and sometimes doesnt drop at all I only get this reading from the rear battery I dont have any of my amps connected, no sound, still a drop The rear battery is grounded to the negative in the front I have also tried grounding the rear battery to the point under the seatbelt bolt that i have used before (no luck) The fr…

Getting ready for a long road trip next week and had a question. Going to be running a large power inverter the whole time and I wanted to put a extra battery or 2 in. My question is I have a 1 year old blue top from my boat and plan on buying a new blue top to go also, would it be a bad idea to run them both together.

I'm ready to tackle the electrical system of my 2011 Malibu. Under the hood battery is a weird group 75 battery. I'm either going to try and modify for a slightly larger battery or just spend the ~$200 die hard platinum that will fit as is. Thing is I'm trying to do this on a slight budget and its gonna be cheaper to use different brand batteries. Just going to put 1 in the trunk. I plan to only use sealed AGM style batts just possibly different brands and sizes.. Any trouble I can avoid here?

I read quite a few questions regarding electrical supply and demand so I decided to post this link to help figure out any electrical dilemma you may be having. http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp

I currently have a 230 amp alternator for my 04 Honda civic. im putting 2 n215 btl's in my trunk with a 3875 watt amp. i have im not sure what kind of battery i have now but its new and standard (nothing special). will i need to pick up another battery or 2 to put into the trunk? if so would i be better off adding them after the subs are installed or wire them at the same time?

Was curious if anyone knew if this would fit or be able to install in a 2005 jimmy. On crutchfield when I fill in my year make and model it says it cant be installed. This does not make sence to me as its not a huge double din or anything. The response only meen they don't have the kit for it? Maybe a kit for this model to work with a Jimmy doesnt exhist anymore? I don't know why a reg size deck would not work. car= 2005 jimmy 2door. No bells and whistles. standard, no steering wheel controls or anything. 1st piece to go with: Hertz HSK165 6.5 components for front. Fi Q12 in ported enclosure Soundqubed Q1-1200D at 1ohm Soundqubed Q4-120 for components.

Is the wire from the alternator supposed to be connected to the positive or negative battery terminal?

Does anyone on here know how to install one. I need direction. Sincerely, Matthew

I got my 2500d today in the mail and i want to make sure i get it all tuned up nicely so i don't damage anything. I went completely brain dead about where to put the lpf and ssf so if you guys could help me out on that? My box is tuned at 35 hz. Secondly I have my dmm and I'm thinking I would set the gains somewhere around 1500 watts, so √1500= 38.73 would that be an ok tuning for my sa15s or should I turn it down a bit? I know they are rated at 600 a piece but I've been told by multiple people on here that they can take more if the power is clean. I'm just listening to music on them so I don't need it cranked up but I want it to be able to shake people inside of my car.

I have an older Rockford Fosgate 500.2 unit and I had some questions about setting the gain. Everything I have read shows to take the RMS wattage X the ohm then get the square root of that. My only problem is since my amp is technically a 2 channel I am wondering how I do this with it in bridged mode. That wouldn't normally be an issue aside from the fact that this amp also has a left and a right gain control. Now the amp is 500 RMS x 1 at 4 ohm bridged OR 125 x 2 @4ohm stereo. How would I go about using a DMM to set these gains as close to perfect as possible?

I'm trying to figure out what electrical setup I need to support a 3000+ watt system. I'm thinking a DC power 270A H.O. Alternator, XS Power XP3000 battery as a secondary, as well as 1/0 through out , of course I could be off with this assumption.

Ive got 2 FI BL 12's fully loaded, a 275 amp alt, and 2 yellow tops. My question is.......would it be better (louder) to run 2 amplifiers linked to the subs? OR would it work better to have an amp per sub? And if i did amp per sub....how would i tune them together without buying anything. Im asking this because ive been looking at this Hifonics BRZ2400 and it looks like a wiener

I have an 05 Outback. Looking at a bunch of options. Best option seems to be Excessive Amperage who can do a 200A for 385. Anything over 200 supposedly will slip due to horrible belt wrap, and I only have a 5 rib belt. Mechman, Singer, Ohio Gen, and DC power are more cash for less ALT than the EA. So its either EA or possibly this? Stumbled across this. http://powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Fitzall-220 Anyone heard or used one? Seems to fit WAY more than just my car. Which worry's me as far as how "drop in" it really is.

I had blown one of my subs a few months ago so I unhooked everything and removed from vehicle. After doing some upgrades and getting new subs in, I finally reinstalled them yesterday. The problem I've ran into is that the amps aren't producing any sound. They power up and show that there on, but no sound. What voltage should the remote wire show? This is the only thing I can think of to check. I will say though that when I had a sub blow it blew the fuse between batteries and the amps where underpowered for awhile. Could this have caused internal problems? All help needed fast!!!

I'm looking to purchase 18 batteries for a build. Kinetik offered me an awesome deal that's hard to pass up. My problem is that I have heard bad things about these batteries. Do you guys think if I properly maintain them I would get better results from them vs the guys that had issues?

ok everyone, i have a 02 nissan with a fi bl 18 running on a zeus 3000 watt i have the amp turned down barely over half right now i want to upgrade my eletrical so i can turn my amp up i have about 300 dollars right now what is the first thing i need to get?

what mini MONO amp would u recommend in the 60-100Wrms range on 4ohm (that could be pluged into 12V car socket) ... you can point out a DIY amp also

I just installed a second yellow optima I have my two amps wired and installed I have two extra sets of ground,power, and remote electrical taped at the end I want to be ready to just plug and play when my two new amps come in the mail I'm seeing 12.6 at stop signs and hit, but do not stay, at 14.4 when getting on the freeway the volt meter is wired to the new battery postitive I'm wondering if maybe I need to charge this new battery some more before i expect 14.4? It was made 05/12 everything is fused with knu including the alternator with high current 300amp fuses big 3 done in 1/0 the alternator is a powerbastards 220 amp, it does 109 @1500 (tested) any ideas? -thanks