Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

http://www.audiopipe.com/products/accessories/general/crx-303.html i have kenwood KFC-1693PS, qpower tweeters, can i just use any passive crossover? are these any good?

i have a nightshade v1 15 and a rd1750.1 amp right now i have my nightshade wired at two ohms but i got the rd because i was told it was .5 stable i have 0 guage throughout big three and 200 amp ho alt will that be good enough electric to safely run this amp at .5

I'm wondering will a active head unit solve my problem. I have a jbl gto 1201.1 II and it doesnt have a subsonic filter. I probably going to get a Alpine 9887.

Hey guys, buying a new amp soon, past two used sundown amp purchases fell through so im just gonna go with one of these. My only question is which one of these would be better for what i am doing. I will not have the sa-12s for about a month to 2 months. I would like to buy the amp now. I currently have a jl w6v2. Which amp would work better to do this? i am leaning towards the 1200.1d because the sa-12s are rated for 600rms. I am planning to do as little electrical upgrades as possible also. But if it would be absolutely worth it i would do it for the 1700. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_23922_Hifonics_BRZ12001D.aspx or http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudi…

I'm a little bit confused about how to wire the RCA's. They have basically 6 sets of preamp outputs with some labeled mid, highs but also some sets labeled positive and negative. The manual isn't too detailed about using the pro setup except to connect all of them. I am going to be running tweets and mids up front and mids in the back. Plus a sub(which it has 2 pairs of outputs to as well for some reason). I will post some pix if necessary. Thanks for any help you guys can provide. I'm trying to get this done tomorrow as i will be working til 10 pm tonight.

http://www.woot.com/woot_detail.aspx I ordered two. Even if I don't use one / don't like it ... I'll still make a profit selling it. Seems like a heck of a deal to me, though.

Could get a Sundown 125.2 and bridge it. Not 600watts, but would work fine.

so i went to spl show and wanted to see what my two sq hds200 dual 2ohm that is wired for a 2ohm load and even checked them with d.m.m and shows 2.1ohms but my mtx thunder 1501d older style no elite suppose to do 1500wrms@2ohms with 14.4volts has 2gauge welding wire and at the car audio show it only clamped 844watts. Im wondering why is this and is there something im missing here and how to fix this to get my wattage up because my spl score in my 00 s10 ext cab was only 142.3 on dash http://www.termpro.com/asp/officialevent.asp?EventID=15579&Method=1000 name is david downs i entered the hardcore truck so i could have door open driver side and then unlimited car truck…

Has anyone had experience with these? http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=prod3590222 I believe there 100ah. Right now the plan is two xcons, 3600W, 300W for front and not sure on the rear yet(my son is back there a lot) 220 amp alt, big three in 1/0.

For some reason the fuse on my sundown 125.2 amplifier keeps popping. I do not even get to turn the car on before they pop. Once I go to insert one fuse it pops directly on contact. Can this be because all 3 fuses have to be connected without power going to them (i know that sounds stupid because of the whole current draw thing but I though I would just throw it out there). The fuse connected 18" away from the amp does not pop but the one connected to the 125.2 does. This leads me to believe that the problem lies somewhere else down the line. I checked the power and ground and they are not touching, they are also inputed correctly. The ground is also secured firmly. No …

Im wondering if the signal voltage will be sufficiently boosted by the http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27392_PAC-LD-10.html. Will this line driver take the place of a healthy 4.5 pre-out voltage that would be otherwise coming from a deck? I have heard the headphone jack of an ipod has 60 miliamps of current at full volume and im trying to boost that up to what would come out of a deck, effectively eliminating the deck. And if It can supply that voltage, can I max it out to ten volts and then run two Y splitters off of the output side of the line driver? giving me two sets of RCA's at 5 volts off of one ipod headphone jack? thanks all

i finally got my subs hook up and my monoblock going....so i know most of you have your gains set at a quarter and so thats what i did at FIRST. The dmm gain settings way wasnt working for some reason it kept reading the same numbers with the music going and the music off. Anyways i left the gains at a quarter for now and listened to it and i couldnt even feel the subs at high volume so i turned it up to half just to see the difference and then right as you get to half this HUGE rumbling comes from my subs and its constant even if the music is on pause...and this did happen but not as loud when i had my other amp at 4ohms.can someone pls help me with this?? here was a cou…

Ok guys I have a 2010 tahoe with my stock alt and a DC 270 xp alt. They are both on a bracket, but what I really want to know is how to run my second alt at 18v. PLEASE be very detailed because I did not put the alt in and have very little experience with this sort of thing. Thanks ahead of time.

i have two 10" pioneer TS-W251R subwoofers in a vented box in my car and right now this kid i know gave me a prehistoric amp for me to use while i look for a new one. (im not even going to say what the old one is... its a joke and doesnt nearly cut it, ill leave it at that) so right now im in the market for a good durable amp that is not going to cost me an arm and a leg cause lets face it, im on a tight budget. so what i do know is the standard stats for my subs they have a norm of 120w and a 600w peak output and they are 4 ohms. what should i be looking at? would something like the Kicker 11DX250.1 be an appropriate option? or should i be looking at a two channel amp in…

I plan on buying an active compatible HU, but was wondering how setting crossover points on an HU works? If I am using external amplifiers, with crossover settings, do the settings on the HU ignore those, and just use the settings programed in the HU? Or would I have to set crossover settings on the amp which are equal to those on the HU? Specifically I will be running a US Amps AX-5600. Help is much appreciated. This will be my first active setup.

I'm getting ready to help a friend out with adding an aftermarket sub and amp to her 2008 Ford Edge. She is keepint the stock H/U. She bought a Stinger Line Output Converter (SLOCII). It a two channel LOC and I'm installing it into a Zed Minilith. Now the Minilith requires that all four input channels have RCA connected to get full signal (6db less for each RCA that is not plugged in I believe). The Stinger converter has five connectors 2 each for + - and a ground. I'm installing an Alpine Type S 2+2ohm to the Amp. Here is my question... I cannot just plug in the factory harness to the Stinger unit (It has 2 channels and all I need is one). How do I connect this sucker? …

i just ordered a stinger digital volt meter and my question is ... where would be the best place to wire it to? the starter batt, the amp, the radio? im just not sure. any help would be appreciated

I have an older 4 channel class AB amplifier that was made by Dragster Audio Art. Amplifier goes straight into protect. I asked Chris at dB-r a couple years ago and he said more than likely it was bad output fets. Chris does not work on older amplifiers like this anymore. I am looking for some feedback on Ampmedics more than anything as we know what kinda quality Mr. Mantz is known for. Here is a couple board shots of the amplifer. It is actually a great amplifier and was solidly built in the EU (European Union).

What is this thing worth in good shape used? Guy locally offered to trade me my Soundstream XXX4000d for one. Im just gonna turn around and sell it if its worth much.

if we bridge a stereo amp does the impedance of the amp change? does the amp being bridged change the final impedance to the subs? as an example would 2 4ohm SVC subs wired in parallel be seen as a 1ohm load by a bridged amp?

http://arawndark.netfirms.com/ cool link I have to the internals of amplifers. Daddy likes!!!!

any know if this puts out rated power has to 80amp fuses so 1 would think it would put out rated but just want to make sure thans for the help .will be running off my stock batt with ho 170amp alt and knu 1/0 with big 3

I have heard a lot about welding supply and coppercableman on e-bay, what about wire and supply or electron beam (EB-flex) wire? Also I see that 1/0 welding wire in general is rated for 350 amps at 50 feet while 2/0 is rated for 400 amps at 50 feet. I don't expect more than a 20 foot run at most from my front to back battery so what size cable would you guys recommend for a Crescendo BC3500d at one ohm with a 300 amp external fuse rating? Lastly I notice there is an ultraflex cable available from welding supply (as well as directwireusa.com) that claims to contain 4x the strand count of the standard wire yet the amperage ratings are the same?

OK... So here is my dilemma. Ive got 2 - 15inch SX series RE audio subs in my room at the moment. Im in need of an amp capable of producing ATLEAST 2000 rms (true power not rated) and made the sad mistake of purchasing the power acrapstik 5500D rated at a rediculous 3200RMS but im not even able to pull 1KW off it by the sounds of it. I guess ile eat the cost of the current amp but what do you guys think of the MA audio 4000D's? My old amp was a rackmount amp from MA and felt like it did near rated pushing my two bostons and i was fairly pleased with the clean output. So heres what it comes down too... Should i purchase for 450 shipped a refurbed 4000D rated at 4000RMS X …

Ok, I just got this amp from a friend, I was unaware I needed a 300 amp fuse for it, but I hooked it up anyway without one. It works fine without the fuse, but Kicker plainly states it needs the 300 amp fuse. So, I go to a local shop and buy the Kicker fuse holder and a 250 amp anl fuse, they did not have 300 amp fuses so I figured 250 was better than nothing. Also, Kicker recommends 1 gauge minimum, I have 2 gauge power and ground in the car now, I plan to upgrade ALL wire to 1 gauge, but my question is, will the 2 guage hurt the amp while I am scrounging money for wire? I noticed that the right side of the amp gets hot, the Kx lines are supposed to have fans in them so …