Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

What size fuse should be between the battery and amp?

i can get both for about the same price. i know the 8053 can run an active 2-way + sub. anyone know what sort of crossovers the alpine has ? which one to get ? i honestly don't have a clue as to which to choose...

Ive decided i wanted to go 2-way active with my new system im buying. Problem is I dont know which is better or more cost efficient. The decks ive been looking at are : pioneer prs 800, kenwood x991, clarion drz9255, Eclipse CD7200mkii and as far as active crossovers i dont know who to look at besides audiocontrol but i figure if im gonna pay almost $400 might as well buy a new deck. What would any of yall recommend?

Hey all. I was just wondering if there was a way to prevent my amp from clipping when I turn the bass up. Also could someone explain exactly what clipping is on a amp? My amp is a AQ2200 my head unit is a Clarion CZ200 my subs are Alpine Type R 15's and I have tsunami 1/0 gauge wiring and all stock electrical. My car is a 1977 oldsmobile delta 88. Oh and I do have a extra battery and I have checked my voltage and it stays around 13.20 when bass hits. Any help is very much appreciated. Thank you.

I forgot to rewire the BTL to 4ohm when I swapped it with my 15's in the HT, and while I was doing so, I began to wonder, if my amp is only 4ohm stable, how does it function exactly, under 4ohm? (I had it wired at 1ohm for the Neer) For example, if you sweep the box, and you measure your entire playable range, and it never exceeds the rated RMS of the amp, say you're wired at one quarter rated minimum like me, and you have it set conservatively, and safe, does that prevent premature failure that low impedance is known for? Is that how people run amps at .25 daily and shit since it's only passing the rated amount of power through? I always assumed they did that for comp…

Yesterday we put the stereo in my cousin's Silverado. We had a remote wire problem and need to pull the HU out today. We noticed last night that his dome lights won't turn off now, even after pulling the key and shutting the doors for a while. It's never done this before until now, is there any chance fixing the remote wire will solve this problem?? Thanks

I tried searching on two sites and couldnt find it, but what does running at full tilt mean? Like blaring the volume all the way almost (3/4ths give or take) or turning the phase all the way to 180 or whatever? I dont know why I thought so, but I've always thought it was turning hte phase up...

Blue one: http://tinyurl.com/ybem7ro Red one: http://tinyurl.com/ybndc95 just ordered mine.

One of 2 alts running/being clamped. Real time, on music (skip to 50s or so,.. canyon is a bitch to drive this hunk of shit, and vid, and not kill anyone.,..,..)

So maybe some one here has done 2 alts can help me. just came back from my mechanics shop and was told that adding second alt would not work, i asked why and was told he could install but could not turn alt on, said i needed a wire harness to hook up to trucks computer. I thought the belt turned the alt on and i could wire to rear batt bank. Can anyone with this type of knowledge please help me out? (air con being swapped for stock alt to go with my Mechman 270a alt)

I want to put 4 of these under my car for now. I wired up my sub and mono amp, but when it comes to finding a multi-channel amp I have no idea what to look for. I know that the horns can handle 150w and they are 8-ohms so two of them wired together should equal 4ohms. So if I have 4 horns that means I need a amp that does 300x2 at 4ohms right? My main problem is that most amps that say 300x2 at 4ohms say bridged and I'm a noob and don't know what bridged means that is what I need help with. Some amps I'm looking at. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_24110_MB-Quart-ONX4.80.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22708_Hifonics-HFi100.4.html http://www.sonicelectronix.c…

are these amps any good.. looking at the nano series... well the issue is that the nanoblock 4 claims to be 2000 watts rms cea compliant but only costs 279.. does any one use these amps or know anything about them? cause that price is really fishy for that amount of power

My friend is planning to buy 1 RE 12" from the RE gruop buy, and i was wondering what amp will i need to power one of these? how much watts do i need for these subs?

School me a bit here, if your running a higher input voltage say going from 12/14 to 16, is it easier on the amp to run a lower ohm load? or does it depend on the amp generally. kinda just trying learn a little more about how amps work. about to buy a new alt and batts here soon, thinking about doing a separate 16v system for my bass amp. (two alts, stock, and a 16/18v) and was wondering if i would be able to run the ohm load down a little more? im a noob obviously so flame me if you must, just trying to get some info. thanks for any input.

Im just looking for a little info on what you guys think the best headunit out of the above choices would be. They are all capable of running active frontstage which is what im looking for. And im pretty sure I can get them at or around the same price. Any of you guys with experience with any of the choices, please post any likes/dislikes. Thanks.

my 4 channel HK598 blew. im not exactly sure what the problem is, but its not in protect, it powers on, but no music...something prally broke becuase of the voltage drop. i put the powerbass xa3000d in....as soon as the bass hits, bam, voltage = 8v! this is on the stock electrical though. the powerbass is holding up like a champ, i have it off now though til i get home so i can put my hc2400 in after work, hopefully thatll help....i also emailed EA about an alternator. i really hope the hc2400 helps though in retaining power to at least 12v while the alt can recharge it....becuase right now the voltage drop is just ridiculous. its loud though. 15" treo ssx in like 4 cube…

Looking at the audiopipe AQX-3500.1 they are priced great for the power just want to get some feedback on this amp any info experience would be great thanks.

I'm wondering will a active head unit solve my problem. I have a jbl gto 1201.1 II and it doesnt have a subsonic filter. I probably going to get a Alpine 9887.

My radio make my subs "pop" when I change tracks and turn off the car. I have tried replacing the rca's that didn't help. differnt head unit stopped it. But I wanna try to keep my kenwood. Any sugestions. I have heard that there is away to stop it just don't know how.

Ok guys i might be opening a can of worms here but i dont understand why people do this to set their gain and think its right. to me, it doesnt make sense and i will explain why. a lot of times i see this chart here and people say set it for xxx voltage and you are set. ignore step 4 since without having a load on the amp is kinda pointless. if that chart is right, then i am putting 1300 watts to my sub, but with a clamp, DMM, and thanks to ohms law, i found out i am putting ~800 to my sub. i am not saying that chart is mathematically wrong, just cant be used the way its intended. so whats the deal? i dont understand why you would use that chart (or any formula equivale…

System consists of the following: • 2010 and up Camaro drivers side large stealth enclosure from Subthump • Knukonceptz 4AWG wiring and interconnects and speaker wire • MTX RE-Q • Subthump T-Harness (used so that we DO NOT splice into the factory wiring) • 12" Fi Q (dual 2 ohm wired to 4 ohms w/ all options and high qts) • ZED Audio Kronos bridged @ 4 ohm (1000rms) There are a couple things that seem to be off. For one, we are using the factory headunit and thought that the RE-Q would be perfect because of the bass restoration, and the fact that the Kronos needs unbalanced grounded preouts (as said by Steve from ZED). Now, due to the fact we havent installed any bass blo…

Finally listened to you all and got a cheap charger at Walmart, 6A charge maintainer, microprocessor controlled, 72W 6amp fast charge 4A medium and 2amp slow 6V/12V automatic. Hooked it up and let it sit over night. In the AM the remote unlock didnt work so I knew it wasnt charged. Looked at the charger and it said full charge. I unplugged it and tried to start it, dead. Reconnected, put back to fast charge, it started...the fan revved higher and higher then shut off. I unplugged and reset, put on slow charge, fan stayed low reve so I left it for 2 hours. Came back, said full charge, but was dead. Gonna take the cheapie back today

Has anyone here ever owned or had experience with a Powerbass amp? I was looking at this and it looks to be a little powerhouse and they're claiming to be super efficient which would be a real plus since I'm looking to keep my stock alt. Any feedback is appreciated.

I just got my new amp (hifonics bxi 2010d) and wired up, but yet Im getting no sound out put to my subs? :S I know the amp's getting power because the amp power light is on and the amp lights up blue. The thing that confuses me is that my old amp worked just fine and I go to swap amps hook everything up and yet no sound out put. I have no idea what couldcause this. Anyone know whats going on?

i had a t20001bd on my btl for a loooong time but finally sold the amp and the whole charging system but still have the sub im trying to sell, but i bought this kenwood 9102d from a buddy so i could thump while im trying to sell my sub... when i have all the wires connected (and yes it is hooked up perfect this isnt my first time) the power light does NOT come on, but the remote wire has enough voltage and the power wire is good (checked with volt meter)....BUT when i pull out BOTH 30a fuses the red power light comes on for like 3-5 seconds then fades away, but voltage and everything stays the same on the amp...the 4 channel amp i have hooked up next to it off the same ba…