Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

So i have an old school kicker ZR1000 2 channel "cheater amp". My buddy gave it to me to use and see if i could fix it. the only stipulation is i can never sell it, if i i get rid of it, it must go to another audio guy who would value it. Anyways, i hooked it up about a week ago and have no output. it has power, no protect light and the RCAs are good. i can turn the gain every which way i want but get no ouput. Multi meter reads 0 across the board on the outputs. i opened it up and see no visible damage. He last used it in 2007 and has had it stored in his house since. I'm just wondering if it would be worth getting it looked at and repaired, and if so, what would be too …

Hey Guys, I need help from anyone who has experience or knowledge on the AudioControl DQS Processor. I have the DQS (which is an amazing piece) w/ the DDC. I understand the freq (eq) adjustments just fine. My question is on the octave slopes. This is more in depth than I've ever had to deal with or most anyone I know has to deal with. I just plain dont understand what the 1/3, 1/2, 3/4 & 1 octave width selection adjustment for each freq is for, or the purpose of the boost (level) of whichever octave width you choose. Is there a general rule of thumb or a general selection in these settings? I have a big setup w/ lots of power & I feel like I have this great compon…

Hi, I want to know how exactly can I measure the exact amount of RMS wattage output my amplifier is delivering to the subwoofer, reason asking is because my amplifier is too powerful for my current subwoofer and I will limit my amplifier to the maximum Rms power handling of my subwoofer, Thank you.

Hi, I'm looking for your experienced recommendations, for a good efficient 3000+ RMS bass amp, it's to power 1 15'' 3000rms Fi SP4 D2 sub and keeping in mind I have a low budget(hope to spend a lot less than $600), car has already all the electrical upgrades. Thank you.

Well I been wanting to upgrade and been looking into a lot of stuff and pretty much came down to a whole new system lol. But I been thinking and I have this nice 9887 HU installed with HSK165 up front and currently using the passive crossovers. I figured why not try running them active? huh why not so I been looking up info on a active system and now looks like I need a new amp in order to do this. So I've been digging around for an amp and not sure what I should go with, Ive been looking at a Alpine PDX-F4, DD C5C, SD SAX-125.4 or 100.4 (used), IA 6.4 and even a Zed Draconia-II and the problem is a can't really make up my mind cause I'm looking for 100-125w x 4ch amp for…

I have an AQX 3500 (loving it, stays pretty cool and no fires lol) but i was wondering if this amplifier would be ok at that low of an impedance if i had a proper electrical to support it and no bass boost. Thanks.

Are the MIDI fuses better than the bigger anl fuses?

So I've wondered this and never seen any tested answers. If i had a 750 watt amp at 1ohms and another 2000watt amp at 1 ohm and 750 at 4 ohms and I want 750 for my subs given same model and same efficiency at same ohm which would draw more current? A bigger amp wired to 4 ohm or a small amp wired to 1 ohm. Example would be a crescendo bc2000 at 4 ohm vs a aq750 at 1 ohm. Anybody tested this and have any thoughts, experiences etc. Hope this is easy to understand as I tried to word it best I could

I had been using an RE Audio XTX3000.1 but decided to move over to the new Sun Down. On paper they're very close in specs but in real life it seems like the RE has substantially more power output. I have the gain turned all the way up on the SAZ-1500D with no clipping and still isn't real strong until I turn the volume way up. The RE gets louder and a much lower volume levels. Any idea if this is normal? I'm sure both companies probably rate their amps different. FWIW, I'm running a fully loaded Fi Q12 in a sealed 1.2 cu ft box (after sub displacement). I've got a Diehard Platinum battery with 1/0 AWG big 3 done.

I have had a dva-9861 setup for several years, I have the Digital sound processor, XM radio and HD radio units connected to it and for the first time I tried hooking up an ipod. I tried a 5th Gen Nano and a 7th gen Classic and in both cases it recognizes the ipod, displays the name of the song on the screen and the "Timer" runs to show how long into the song it is but there is No sound at all. is there any internal setting I have to change to make it work? thanks, Sparty

I am wondering if the bc2000 will allow the use of 175 amp fuse. I will be burning it at a half ohm. So all u guys that have had experience with this amp I would appreciate ur thoughts.

Did a small build in my daily driver and have no dimming of tail/dash lights at normal listening levels. I occasionally listen to it moderately loud when Im in the mood and when the double bass drums hit heavy or the bass guitar digs deep and loud I notice a faint amount of dimming. I just wondered what my next step would be to get rid of it altogether? Here is a list of what Im running. 02 Accord EX-L V6 Coupe with a stock alternator and the car already had a few month old Optima Red top in it. Pioneer AVH4300DVD head unit Phoenix Gold Elite.65cs comps up front powered by a JL A2150 SSA Icon 10 in a 1 cube sealed enclosure powered by a JL JX1000.1D @ 2ohms 4ga power fr…

Just curious if the kinetik will be an upgrade compared to the stock G34 I have up front. The kinetik is smaller than the stock battery, but it's also a battery designed for this type of thing. Might sound like a no brainer but I wanted to make sure.

Looking for a little help with my headunit. I have a Kenwood 400U that powers on and runs fine just when i go under audio setting and try to move some of the settings around they dont do anything. The headunit has a subwoofer on and off option and when i try to turn the sub off with the headunit it still plays. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So my question is, how many have tried a 12v battery with a 2v battery in series to get 14v and charge at 16.3-16.8 volts... And this would be a daily / spl setup. so let me hear all the pro's @ con's, I think it would rock

just thought id share this they have 35 ah batteries for a decent price sealed lead acid agm batts http://www.parts-express.com/brand/power-sonic/509?utm_source=Retail&utm_medium=Email_Newsletter&utm_content=PowerSonic&utm_campaign=email111512

It was brought up in another topic I have, but they said they could get an 80 amp fuse to hold on a 3500 watt burp. I plan on competing in meca and knowing how this is done would be vital info to me. Let me know how its done.

What and or Who makes the power wire that has the fabric jacket on it? I am really curious because it looks really nice and clean and id really like to have some of it!

Hey i have a xcon 10 in my trailblazer and i am looking to put more power to it. I am currently running a cadence a7hc but the sub can handle a lot more power and i would like to be louder. I have it in a 1.1 box at 35 hz. I guess i need 1800-2000+ watts and would like to keep it under 400. Any ideas on a good amp?

electrical system consists of 220 amp alt., 2 hc 2400 kinetik, and the big three completed. I have a 2000 blazer, box is built to vehicles peak tuning frequency. What would be the best amp to use for competition in the street 3 class for meca. Price of amp is not to much of an issue, just looking for something to get the most from the subs. All help would be appreciative.

Right now im slowly building my system and so far i have Two 12w6 and a JL audio 1000/1v2 amp. Id like to know what guage wire i should use and if anyone had any advice on a good headunit for the subs

None on the lights inside truck work now and cd player wont turn on.. Should i run a wire from bat the the yellow wire as to get the cd player to work and.bb i think lights i just need new fuses correct?

going to have a set up between 1.5 and 2k wrms. stock alternator will be doing big 3 curently have a napa battery (5100R) 1998 Honda CRV wondering if i should go ahead and order a new battery with my sub and amp or just wait till its in? and what is going to be a better battery for under the hood, optima yellow top or the xs? or should i just keep the stock battery and run the yellow top in the trunk?

I just installed a Pioneer AVH-1400DVD, Audiopipe APSM-1500d, and Kicker L7 12 in a friend's 2011 Dodge Challenger. It all came together good. Sounded great while playing music off of his iphone and flash drive. And it sounds good when using the radio until i turn the bass knob up (max output at about 750 watts at 1 ohm). The more i turn, the more static i have. I have never heard of this happen before. What could it possibly be?

I still have my 15" sundowns and I've recently been offered a pretty good deal on this amp. I was wondering if it's better than my current amp found here.