Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

It was brought up in another topic I have, but they said they could get an 80 amp fuse to hold on a 3500 watt burp. I plan on competing in meca and knowing how this is done would be vital info to me. Let me know how its done.

I am wondering if the bc2000 will allow the use of 175 amp fuse. I will be burning it at a half ohm. So all u guys that have had experience with this amp I would appreciate ur thoughts.

What and or Who makes the power wire that has the fabric jacket on it? I am really curious because it looks really nice and clean and id really like to have some of it!

Hey i have a xcon 10 in my trailblazer and i am looking to put more power to it. I am currently running a cadence a7hc but the sub can handle a lot more power and i would like to be louder. I have it in a 1.1 box at 35 hz. I guess i need 1800-2000+ watts and would like to keep it under 400. Any ideas on a good amp?

Just curious if the kinetik will be an upgrade compared to the stock G34 I have up front. The kinetik is smaller than the stock battery, but it's also a battery designed for this type of thing. Might sound like a no brainer but I wanted to make sure.

electrical system consists of 220 amp alt., 2 hc 2400 kinetik, and the big three completed. I have a 2000 blazer, box is built to vehicles peak tuning frequency. What would be the best amp to use for competition in the street 3 class for meca. Price of amp is not to much of an issue, just looking for something to get the most from the subs. All help would be appreciative.

Right now im slowly building my system and so far i have Two 12w6 and a JL audio 1000/1v2 amp. Id like to know what guage wire i should use and if anyone had any advice on a good headunit for the subs

I just installed a Pioneer AVH-1400DVD, Audiopipe APSM-1500d, and Kicker L7 12 in a friend's 2011 Dodge Challenger. It all came together good. Sounded great while playing music off of his iphone and flash drive. And it sounds good when using the radio until i turn the bass knob up (max output at about 750 watts at 1 ohm). The more i turn, the more static i have. I have never heard of this happen before. What could it possibly be?

I still have my 15" sundowns and I've recently been offered a pretty good deal on this amp. I was wondering if it's better than my current amp found here.

I'm currently in a debate for which amp i want to get. i'm running a fi sp4 15. For electrical i'm running all 1/0 gauge a 350 amp alternator, currently a stock battery but soon to be upgraded to an xs power d3400. Just can decide between which amp i want aq 3500 or crescendo 3500. Both great amps buch which one will be best for my setup?

Need some advice, I need to purchase a 4 channel amp the choice between sundown 125.4 or ice 150.4 The only thing that's holding me back from buying the sundown is I've just read its a D class compared to the SPL ice 150.4 which is a a/b class. Would there be a big difference in sound quality on my mid & tops? I use a sundown 1500d v3 on the bass but I need a 4 channel to go with it. Thoughts please

I have an alpine 9887 with 4v preouts. I'm running 4 mono amps for my subs. I have been using a maxxling with 9v line driver. I have heard the maxxlink presents much distortion. I decided not to use it on the rebuild. My question is will I have enough rca voltage to run 4 huge amps in one set of rcas.

I would like to start using my phone with my deck as I have spotify and it works really well and I get unlimited music for $10 a month. I have been using an iPod Touch since the interface is so nice on the deck. It really is too bad there aren't any Android compatible DVD decks as I am not a fan of apple at all. So...what do you guys think is the best way to hookup my android phone to get the best possible sound quality? To be honest I will most likely stick with using my iPod, but eventually I would like to get away from that for future use.

going to have a set up between 1.5 and 2k wrms. stock alternator will be doing big 3 curently have a napa battery (5100R) 1998 Honda CRV wondering if i should go ahead and order a new battery with my sub and amp or just wait till its in? and what is going to be a better battery for under the hood, optima yellow top or the xs? or should i just keep the stock battery and run the yellow top in the trunk?

My Pioneer MVH-8200 recently has been having faceplate issues where it seems like it isn't making a good connection and if I push in the faceplate sometimes it causes the unit to turn off then back on (most likely because it loses connection then regains). I live in maine so it gets pretty cold and I'm wondering if there is some moisture in there that's causing issues. If that is the case what do you think I could do to help clean off the connectors? I tried looking on ebay and amazon for a replacement faceplate and couldn't find one, and when I emailed pioneer they gave me the usual round around with warranty (which I don't have the info for since I bought it used)

None on the lights inside truck work now and cd player wont turn on.. Should i run a wire from bat the the yellow wire as to get the cd player to work and.bb i think lights i just need new fuses correct?

Guess my head unit doesn't like my new setup. After going close to full tilt the screen goes blank until I turn truck off and back on. Any suggestions or just send it back to Crutchfield?

Hey guys, i'm a new member here and I was looking to get a little bit of help with my car audio setup. I recently bought a Skar Audio VVX 12" 4ohm DVC sub off SSA here and have it hooked up to a kicker zx1000.1 in a 1.6 cu. ft. ported box tuned to 32 hz. It slams pretty nice, shakes the hell out of my car and blurs my vision so I'm pretty satisfied with it. However, I'm pretty much running it on my stock electrical (I have a 2006 Pontiav Wave btw). My alternator is rated at 100A and my battery is rated at 550CCA and 55Ah. My headlights and my dashboard dim heavily even while driving but especially when stopped. I wouldn't normally care about this but on certain songs when…

I need some input from anybody that might know, I purchased an aftermarket alternator for my 2009 dodge ram 5.7. I sold the truck and now I have a 2012 dodge ram 5.7. My question for anyone who knows is; will the electrical system of the new ram (2012) handle the aperage and extra voltage (300 amps @ 15.3 volts) ? Also, I got the self excite module to boost voltage to 15.3 volts. This will be the only alternator in the truck. Thanks for any help!

I'm going to be running two amps here soon, one per sub. My question: Instead of having to run one bass knob to each amp/sub, could I somehow use just one for both? They are the Audiopipe APSM1500 amps. The knobs have the 3.5mm cable from the knob to the amp. They are like a headphone jack from what I can tell. Could I just use a headphone splitter from one knob and run the two separate wires from the splitter to the two amps?

I needs some help with my setup, i have a fi audio sp4 15" fully loaded 1 ohm sub, i have it powered by a hifonics colossus amp i cannot even bridge the amp, but i cant get the amp turnt up at all without it clipping im using the bass knob for it and i can get it up about a quarter of the way before it starts clipping. I'm running all 0 gauge wire and i have a 350 amp alternator why is the amp clipping so bad?? im never dropping below 14 volts and it still clipping really bad, any ideas why the amp is clipping so bad??

After months of dealing with pioneers terrible customer service, one tech finally tells me that there was supposed to be a four foot usb extension capable of carrying the video signal from my iphone to the unit in the box. Unfortunately, even though ive been dealing with them since january, they wont send me one on them becuase its been over thirty days since i bought it. Anyways... I really need one longer anyways. It needs to be able to carry the signal and be at least 12 ft long. Any ideas?

ok guys one my home from work my friends subs im using Kenwoods 12" 400 rms each stop working as soon as i get ready to pull in. i look under my hood and my power wire fuse holder looks like it blew up.... kinda in half.... ( I was only using these subs for a week until i get my FI SSD 15 today or tomorrow.) Any ideas why this happened? i had a spare KIcker 4 awg wire so i wasnt to mad lol.

A buddy of mine just got two power acoustik demon 6000d series amps. I looked them up and they said they would do 3500 @ 1 ohm and 7000 @ 2 ohm when strapped. I've never seen per heard these amps so he enter to know if anyone has any knowledge of about them. I thinly its very sketchy ratings for the price. Anyone have an idea?

So i replaces my stocker with a yellow top. I want to run a second battery as well, unisolated. I was advised against using the stock one with the yellow top. Ive been seeing builds where people do though. Are there issues here that i teally need to be concerned with or not? I believe the stock is an AC. Delco. Eventually when cag allows it i will match batteries but would this be ok for now?