Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

School me a bit here, if your running a higher input voltage say going from 12/14 to 16, is it easier on the amp to run a lower ohm load? or does it depend on the amp generally. kinda just trying learn a little more about how amps work. about to buy a new alt and batts here soon, thinking about doing a separate 16v system for my bass amp. (two alts, stock, and a 16/18v) and was wondering if i would be able to run the ohm load down a little more? im a noob obviously so flame me if you must, just trying to get some info. thanks for any input.

ok so i have an Alpine CDA-9886 as my headunit. and ofcourse i have the ipod hook up so i can use my ipod and iphone. as any one with an ipod or iphone would know that it has the EQ option to use bass boost so what my question is. am i alright to leave the bass boost on the ipod or iphone? or is that still a bad idea. i'm well aware that any type of bass boost or loudness settings on the headunit or amp is mostly all of the time a no no but i've never really been sure about this. it might be different for the ipod settings since it's i guess you can say, "controlled by the headunit" or something of that wording, so those settings might cancel out. but i'm not sure. it's …

Ok so this kid at school was like his friends dad was an EE, and he could wire shit up real tight like, like a ps2 and xbox mod ....but then i ask him does he have his # and he's like no, man i coulda got the hook up right there, but anyway, where can i get an amp modded at?????

Has someone out there tested the American Bass vfl-120.1 maybe some 14 an 16v numbers? Thanks for any help.

I am looking to buy a double din video headunit so that I can have a backup camera. The alpine is my favorite so far but the cheapest I can find it for is $600 which is pushing my budget but I can sell my alpine 9886 and garmin for around $300-350 all together. Just pick which one you would get and why or which one you would stay away from if you have heard something... reason for getting it is i need a HU that supports rear view cameras because my tint I will be getting will make backing up at night hell. Must have functions are rearview camera and ipod full control (hence why i favor the alpine) all other things are extras but not mandatory. Thanks, Patrone

Ok I am about to work on the charging system now and need some ideas. I have upgraded the alternator to 220 and still need to change the three wires. I will be running a few batteries in the back of the car that are different from the cars battery. I am using a stinger master for the car now and have 3 SVR80 in the car for the system I do have a 15f cap as well but not sure if I need to use it. Can someone help me out here a little so I get this done right. Thanks PT

I'd like some opinions on where I should have my voltage metered from. Currently it's hooked up to the battery so I know how much voltage is at my battery, but should I have it wired straight to the alternator or the amp? I'm stuck between battery and amp. I'd like to know voltage to my amp but I'd also like to know voltage to my battery. I guess I can buy another one. But what would you guys do? How do you have your volt meters set up? And do you guys have your power wire for your volt meter fused?

is one powermaster 3100 in the front cell enough for one saz 3000d? or will i need one powermaster in the front cell, and one in the back of the vehicle. i should be pulling around 2000 watt rms

since i put in my DC 270XP the charging voltage likes to sit high at 15.0-15.3. how can i adjust the voltage or lower it to around 14.5-14.8?

Well, my Avionixx 4ch died on me, so while I'm having it refurbed, I think I'm going to go ahead and upgrade. Right now I'm looking at an Eclipse E4000, it's rated at 100w x4 @ 4 ohm but the guy at a local shop says he thinks it does more like 85w...I believe him too. Anyway, does anyone have any opinions on their amps? I want this to last me a LONG time, not just a year like the Avionixx... http://www.smartcart.com/alneds/cgi/displa...item_num=EA4000 The shop is charging 320~325 out the door or I could get it 225 shipped off egay. Anyhow, opinions please! I want to purchase soon (like today)... I WAS gonna go with a PG Xenon 100x4 but it's too big.

All together there will be 5 105ah battarys on a buss bar I noticed they have a cheaper version of the one iv been recommended just wondering what makes this so special an is it worth the extra $100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045F3SGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9p1Tyb2YMB2WY?tag=vs-auto-convert-amazon-20

Well I have a kicker 500Si and it ran into a problem when I got it. I hooked it up and it would go into protection mode after 5 seconds. I sent it in to kicker after asking them on the phone if it could be fixed and after two weeks they emailed me back and said that they could not fix it. I know they could because anyone that's can fix amps can fix mine. Well I want to know if any of you guys may know how to fix this amp. The man I was going to go through just retired. I also have a kicker 40ss that has the same problem. Any help would be great. Kicker rocks!!! B)

are these amps any good.. looking at the nano series... well the issue is that the nanoblock 4 claims to be 2000 watts rms cea compliant but only costs 279.. does any one use these amps or know anything about them? cause that price is really fishy for that amount of power

Anybody have the ohm ratings for this amp 1, 2, 4-ohm? Thanks

what would be a good o-scope for a reasonable price, only want to use it for tuning amps, thanks

I've been running my 2 Dcons off of 300 watts (total) for a few months now, and I guess my ears are now getting used to the volume. Soooooo......time for more power! I've run across a Zapco Reference 750 that a guy has for $100. Looks to me like a great fit wattage-wise, as it will push 375 per channel or 750 bridged. I just want to know how these amps measure up, as I've never heard of them. Google searches seem to bring up positive reviews, but I'd like to hear from you guys who may have had experience with them. Thanks in advance!

i have been looking around and seeing alot of people using external equalizers. my setup right now is 3 pairs of coaxial speakers and 2 re audio 10 inch subwoofers. i have a kenwood deck with the basic bass,mid and treble settings on it. my question is ,is it worth buying an external eq and will i see a big difference with it. i listen to a lot of rap so its bass heavy. and also if i should get an eq any suggestions on what brands ? i have a budget of about 100 to 150$ on one . thanks

ok i accedently hooked the rem turn on power to the output of the radio, and now no sound comes from it :angry: I beleive i have fucked up the internal amp on it...does anyone know a way to get a new one or have this fixed..

Should I still bother with a frame ground if all my amps have direct positive and negative from the battery? My sub amp current has direct runs to the battery of 1/0, which are both less than ten feet.

I did some research and I realize they are mostly a build house for other car audio companies and are based out of Korea. I just can't really find any info on the amplifiers they put out under their own name. I was looking at the "Zenon World Competition Series 4 Channel Amplifier", but can't find squat for info or reviews. Just curious if anyone has any experience with this amplifier? Would you say it would be a good SQ amplifier to run a component set with? Thanks for any help.

I have an alpine CDA-9853. I'm not sure what would be the best way to set it up. The crossover has front/rear/sub, I'm not sure about the slope and what Hz to tune them to for best sound. I have the front / rear set to 100hz and the slope to 24. It goes flat/6/12/18/24. I would like some advice on how to tune these. The subwoofer setting is what I'm most concerned about. I have a FI BL 12 and blew it. Now in the process of re coning it =( I'm also not sure what to set my amps LPF to.... I was told 80hz but I want to be sure. Many people also mentioned bass boost being bad, is this true? And one more question, should I keep my subwoofer level on 0 at all time…

ok last thread i promise- i wanna keep this clean and no bs posts, just information please. reason is that i'm positive this is the last thread is becuase i got my tweeters in, and they were hard to find, i got the 8 of the last 10 pairs they had in stock, and i only paid dealer cost (48 a pair SHIPPED) vs like 80 a pair where most others sell them for. anyways, they're still bullets, i know you guys wont like them, but they are comparable to Eminence sound wise, they're a tad bit louder too, 109dB efficient.... also, they look better too. again, not to most of you guys, but i didnt want 16 big square eminence tweeters, so i got these, they look like the Beyma/o2 bullets,…

I’m trying to see if someone can answer this question for me in simple terms. Basically I want to know what is going to happen to my signal as it’s going to be transferred and how multiple equalizers, crossovers, and gains will affect it. So basically, my head unit has a built in equalizer and crossover (they’re not that great though.) From my head unit the signal will go to an external equalizer I have. From the equalizer the signal is going to go into a stetsom 3way 6 channel crossover. The crossover is a crossover (obviously). From the stetsom crossover the signal will go into my full range amps. I have 2 amps, one for mids and one for highs. Now to make things even …

Does this make sense? Am I looking at this right? What I would like to do it setup my starter battery to an aux battery... I can connect the 2 negative terminals from both batteries okay, is it safe? Also, would I then still have to ground the aux battery to chassis? is it just good to have an extra ground off the aux battery? Could the amps be connected to the negative terminals of the aux battery if I have both terminals from the 2 batteries connected? Help me make sense of this or tell me how to do this better... Didn't think this was advanced so I made a generic post... thanks guys or does this work better?

Ok so I'm in the market to buy another amp for my new sub setup. My Car is a 94 Legend Coupe 6.5" Infinity Kappa Fronts 6x9' Infinity Kappa Rears USAMPS XT1600.4 V2 Amp Running the Kappa's Now I'm needing to power (1) 15-inch RE SXX D2 Subwoofer in a 35hz Ported 3cft Custom Fiberglass/Wood Spare Tire Enclosure These are the amps im looking at : USAMPS MD-2D 1500rms@1ohm $319.99 MTX TE1501D 1500rms@1ohm $369.99 Kicker KX1500.1 1500rms@2ohms $359.99 (if I get this amp I would buy the RE SXX D4 of course) So what amp should I get? The car is a daily driver, so efficiency and SQ is important to a certain extent but not a MUST, im willin to sacrifice some efficiency for power.…