Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I'd like some opinions on where I should have my voltage metered from. Currently it's hooked up to the battery so I know how much voltage is at my battery, but should I have it wired straight to the alternator or the amp? I'm stuck between battery and amp. I'd like to know voltage to my amp but I'd also like to know voltage to my battery. I guess I can buy another one. But what would you guys do? How do you have your volt meters set up? And do you guys have your power wire for your volt meter fused?

are these amps any good.. looking at the nano series... well the issue is that the nanoblock 4 claims to be 2000 watts rms cea compliant but only costs 279.. does any one use these amps or know anything about them? cause that price is really fishy for that amount of power

Got my temporary ap1500d in the mail and installed. Set the gains via voltmeter, which I know is not the best method but thats what I have currently. Also tried confirming with my ear. Have 0 to 4 gauge reducers both put in, and included a picture of everything. Wired at 2ohms, voltage doesn't drop at ALL before protection light kicks in. The old amp would drop the voltage into the 12s. Gain is not even a 4th of the way up. With the new amp, its not as loud as it was nor is there as much flex as there was with my mtx7801d. Did I do something wrong? I feel this amp should be "putting out" better than what it is.

Has anyone used a Duracell Platinum AGM battery before? It's the largest AGM I can fit under my hood, 94r. Sam's club has them for $169; http://www.samsclub.com/sams/auto-grp-94r-h7-agm-36-mo-free/prod9510086.ip?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default Ford put the smallest battery possible in my car to save weight, I'm thinking they counterbalanced that by using a 150A alternator. There are two pieces that hold the battery in place that, once removed, accept a 94r. Should I go for this battery or does anyone have any other suggestions?

ok so i have an Alpine CDA-9886 as my headunit. and ofcourse i have the ipod hook up so i can use my ipod and iphone. as any one with an ipod or iphone would know that it has the EQ option to use bass boost so what my question is. am i alright to leave the bass boost on the ipod or iphone? or is that still a bad idea. i'm well aware that any type of bass boost or loudness settings on the headunit or amp is mostly all of the time a no no but i've never really been sure about this. it might be different for the ipod settings since it's i guess you can say, "controlled by the headunit" or something of that wording, so those settings might cancel out. but i'm not sure. it's …

I have a DHD NTX-2009 4 channel amp it does 250w x 4 max output. I wanted to use it for my mids and highs. I bought it used $20 on craigslist, expecting there to be errors and that maybe I can fix it. Right now I'm in a stump because I can get it to turn on, but it doesn't output sound, music. All my wires are correct and the fuses aren't blown so what could be a problem? I'm not really good at fixing amps or troubleshooting but maybe you guys can help. Ex. Had it hooked up in my truck wired to my door speakers and tweeters, played some music and the only output was my subs on my SAZ 1500. No sound from my speakers. And does anyone know a place I can trust to ship …

School me a bit here, if your running a higher input voltage say going from 12/14 to 16, is it easier on the amp to run a lower ohm load? or does it depend on the amp generally. kinda just trying learn a little more about how amps work. about to buy a new alt and batts here soon, thinking about doing a separate 16v system for my bass amp. (two alts, stock, and a 16/18v) and was wondering if i would be able to run the ohm load down a little more? im a noob obviously so flame me if you must, just trying to get some info. thanks for any input.

All together there will be 5 105ah battarys on a buss bar I noticed they have a cheaper version of the one iv been recommended just wondering what makes this so special an is it worth the extra $100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045F3SGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9p1Tyb2YMB2WY?tag=vs-auto-convert-amazon-20

so i was not going to buy a head unit in the first place but now that im thinking i can probably use the features for the eq... i have been looking at the clarion vz300 and that appeals to me, but also the jensen vm9224 i dont know much about jensen and im not sure if they are a reliable brand, so some help here would be nice.. in fact i wouldnt mind suggestions for other headunits as long as they are under 250

what would be a good o-scope for a reasonable price, only want to use it for tuning amps, thanks

Does this make sense? Am I looking at this right? What I would like to do it setup my starter battery to an aux battery... I can connect the 2 negative terminals from both batteries okay, is it safe? Also, would I then still have to ground the aux battery to chassis? is it just good to have an extra ground off the aux battery? Could the amps be connected to the negative terminals of the aux battery if I have both terminals from the 2 batteries connected? Help me make sense of this or tell me how to do this better... Didn't think this was advanced so I made a generic post... thanks guys or does this work better?

Im just looking for a little info on what you guys think the best headunit out of the above choices would be. They are all capable of running active frontstage which is what im looking for. And im pretty sure I can get them at or around the same price. Any of you guys with experience with any of the choices, please post any likes/dislikes. Thanks.

I am looking to buy a double din video headunit so that I can have a backup camera. The alpine is my favorite so far but the cheapest I can find it for is $600 which is pushing my budget but I can sell my alpine 9886 and garmin for around $300-350 all together. Just pick which one you would get and why or which one you would stay away from if you have heard something... reason for getting it is i need a HU that supports rear view cameras because my tint I will be getting will make backing up at night hell. Must have functions are rearview camera and ipod full control (hence why i favor the alpine) all other things are extras but not mandatory. Thanks, Patrone

Would like to know what you guys prefer and why. The HU seems to have more precise control and you can change the slope as well. If using the HU crossovers, should the amp be set to full?

Alrighty soo I'm looking to finaly get my own amp for my beastly little sub, the oem tc10 from tc sounds. Its a dual 4ohm sub. RMS power is 800 watts but is said to be able to take alot more power than that with a smile. Right now shes being powered by a RF amp that I'm borrowing from my buddy. I guess its rated at like 750watts. It works, but with the power turned all the way up, my sub is beggin for more. I'm not looking to break my bank, but I'm definately not looking for something walmart would cary either. I dont know much about what are good amps now adays, but a couple I've been looking at are the PG RSD1200.1 and the alpine mrd-m1005. What are some other opt…

Should I still bother with a frame ground if all my amps have direct positive and negative from the battery? My sub amp current has direct runs to the battery of 1/0, which are both less than ten feet.

Well, my Avionixx 4ch died on me, so while I'm having it refurbed, I think I'm going to go ahead and upgrade. Right now I'm looking at an Eclipse E4000, it's rated at 100w x4 @ 4 ohm but the guy at a local shop says he thinks it does more like 85w...I believe him too. Anyway, does anyone have any opinions on their amps? I want this to last me a LONG time, not just a year like the Avionixx... http://www.smartcart.com/alneds/cgi/displa...item_num=EA4000 The shop is charging 320~325 out the door or I could get it 225 shipped off egay. Anyhow, opinions please! I want to purchase soon (like today)... I WAS gonna go with a PG Xenon 100x4 but it's too big.

what is going on here? i had a ZX1500.1 for 5 and a half years with zero issues on stock electric between 3 different vehicles. My ZX2500.1 died earlier this year after only about 4 months of use, i sent it off to kicker for repair and got it back, not long after i lost my sub and had to buy a new one. this amp as is has been used less than a month and a half. i was bumping at close to max volume day before yesterday, i arrive at my destination with time to spare so i sit in the truck with the engine off for about 45 min doing paper work with the stereo on at 1/4 volume. i had to run into the store so i shut off the truck accessories and go in, i come back out and turn …

Can a Rockford fosgate t2500-1bd run at 0.5 ohms with every day use

I have an alpine CDA-9853. I'm not sure what would be the best way to set it up. The crossover has front/rear/sub, I'm not sure about the slope and what Hz to tune them to for best sound. I have the front / rear set to 100hz and the slope to 24. It goes flat/6/12/18/24. I would like some advice on how to tune these. The subwoofer setting is what I'm most concerned about. I have a FI BL 12 and blew it. Now in the process of re coning it =( I'm also not sure what to set my amps LPF to.... I was told 80hz but I want to be sure. Many people also mentioned bass boost being bad, is this true? And one more question, should I keep my subwoofer level on 0 at all time…

I’m trying to see if someone can answer this question for me in simple terms. Basically I want to know what is going to happen to my signal as it’s going to be transferred and how multiple equalizers, crossovers, and gains will affect it. So basically, my head unit has a built in equalizer and crossover (they’re not that great though.) From my head unit the signal will go to an external equalizer I have. From the equalizer the signal is going to go into a stetsom 3way 6 channel crossover. The crossover is a crossover (obviously). From the stetsom crossover the signal will go into my full range amps. I have 2 amps, one for mids and one for highs. Now to make things even …

ok last thread i promise- i wanna keep this clean and no bs posts, just information please. reason is that i'm positive this is the last thread is becuase i got my tweeters in, and they were hard to find, i got the 8 of the last 10 pairs they had in stock, and i only paid dealer cost (48 a pair SHIPPED) vs like 80 a pair where most others sell them for. anyways, they're still bullets, i know you guys wont like them, but they are comparable to Eminence sound wise, they're a tad bit louder too, 109dB efficient.... also, they look better too. again, not to most of you guys, but i didnt want 16 big square eminence tweeters, so i got these, they look like the Beyma/o2 bullets,…

so lately all of sudden my system will be playing and the bass randomly quits and i dont even have the system up loud or bass up alot. sometimes when it happens i can turn the sound down and it will cut back on. the whole amp cuts off looks like. its in a 2002 s-10 stock alt bat have an us amps md1d and ten inch re sx any help with this? im in the process checking all connections right now

I have a Denon DCT-A100 HU and I have been looking for some good external signal processors since the Denon has absolutely nothing as far as processing goes. I'm basically looking for at least a 30 band EQ that has all your basic features, time alignment, etc. What are my options? My setup is as follows: 2 Fi Q 12's (possibly upgrading to 18's in the future) running in an IB Sundown SAZ-1500 on the subs And what's coming soon: Hybrid Technologies Legatia 3-way set (8" woofer, 4" midrange, 1" tweeter) Sundown SAX-100.4 on the mids and woofers Sundown SAX-100.2 on the tweets

Just as the topic states. For example, what would be the 4 ohm rating for a AB 1100.1 be? I know on their Website it says or shows what it does at 1 Ohm, but what would it do at 4 Ohms? Is there a Formula to this Madness or do you simply divide the RMS of the Amp by 4 to get the 4 Ohm Rating? I know I am going to get some Stupid answers, BUT I would really like to hear Educated and Smart Answers. Thank you in Advance my Fellow Bass Heads. Also if you know the 4 Ohm Ratings for your Amps for you Sub Stage, would you kindly list your info in this Format. Make: Model: 1 Ohm or whatever Ohm Load your Amp's RMS is rated at: The Amp's 4 Ohm RMS Rating: Again Thank you in Advanc…