Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

so does anyone know of any companys making any all tube car audio amplifiers anymore, if so, who are they, and if you can supply any details about them, that would be great

I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue and am getting ready to purchase the things that I am still missing in my setup. My main concern is my Audiobahn 2300hct powering my 2 12" JL W7's at 1ohm. I have a yellow top for the trunk and a capacitor as well, here is where I'm lost as I've never used an extra battery or a cap before. The AB has 4x40 fuses, and I also plan to buy a 4 channel amp that does 75x4 rms {not sure on model yet}. My first question is how many fuses should I run throughout setup? Currently I have a 200amp ANL fuse, should I run this 18" from the battery {front duralast, or trunk yellow top}, or should I run a 200amp ANL at each battery? I Also plan on purchasi…

School me a bit here, if your running a higher input voltage say going from 12/14 to 16, is it easier on the amp to run a lower ohm load? or does it depend on the amp generally. kinda just trying learn a little more about how amps work. about to buy a new alt and batts here soon, thinking about doing a separate 16v system for my bass amp. (two alts, stock, and a 16/18v) and was wondering if i would be able to run the ohm load down a little more? im a noob obviously so flame me if you must, just trying to get some info. thanks for any input.

Should I still bother with a frame ground if all my amps have direct positive and negative from the battery? My sub amp current has direct runs to the battery of 1/0, which are both less than ten feet.

This is the inside of my JBL px300.4. I have narrowed down the noise in my system (HISS) to the amplifier itself by 1) Using muting plugs 2) Removeing the amp from the vehicle and using a "test bench" if you will and a test speaker to find the same noise. It's a low hiss with the vehicle OFF and ear right up close to speakers. By "test bench" I mean I connected the amp right by my battery with the ground going straight to the battery and used a test speaker and adjusted every setting on the amp with no change - gains at zero - no rca's connected. So I took off the cover not the entire sink case and looked around. Here are the two things odd I found. I'm no expert and if t…

Ok so some of you may have read my other thread about the RF amp. Well I put my AQ 4X90 back in and bridged it on my fronts and got a naaaasty engine whine. I checked the ground, it was tight. I tried both my sub rca's and another pair of rca's they both make the noise. Sub amp makes no noise. When I disconnect the rca's the noise stops. I moved the ground so that my sub amp and the AQ's grounds were seperate, still got the noise. The noise stays loud regardless of head unit volume. I put the RF amp back in and it makes the same noise. I'm very clueless and frustrated. I followed the noise guide but none of it helped.

I am trying to decide between (2) new AudioQue 2200ds or (2) used or refurbished Sundown SAZ-2000ds. I want to spend less than 800 and will be driving 4 D4 Elemental Designs 13Av.2s. I want to link 2 and I am hoping to get around 1100 to 1300 to each sub and they will be in a new box slightly over 8.8 ft.^3 tuned to 29hz. I have proper electrical so that won't be an issue so just some opinions on what your experiences are with the amps and which ones you would buy. Thanks.

I currently have a Pioneer DEH-7800MP and am very happy with it except for the fact that I would like a DVD player/flip screen. I'm trying to find something with 3 preouts, some crossover abilities, and fairly inexpensive. The head unit has to be single din and a flip screen because my dash would have be cut for a full din. The Clarion looks decent but I can't find much info on it other than really general stuff. Ebay, Crutchfield, and other online sites have it for around $350 shipped and that's the price range I'm looking for. I'm not sure if I will be happy with less crossover abilities but not sure if I really need them either. My current 4 channel is a JL 300/4 runni…

has anyone had expeirience with these or the 4000 what are the + and- to them? Are they power hungery compaired to other amps in the same power class? Thanks MC

Just as the topic states. For example, what would be the 4 ohm rating for a AB 1100.1 be? I know on their Website it says or shows what it does at 1 Ohm, but what would it do at 4 Ohms? Is there a Formula to this Madness or do you simply divide the RMS of the Amp by 4 to get the 4 Ohm Rating? I know I am going to get some Stupid answers, BUT I would really like to hear Educated and Smart Answers. Thank you in Advance my Fellow Bass Heads. Also if you know the 4 Ohm Ratings for your Amps for you Sub Stage, would you kindly list your info in this Format. Make: Model: 1 Ohm or whatever Ohm Load your Amp's RMS is rated at: The Amp's 4 Ohm RMS Rating: Again Thank you in Advanc…

Does anyone know what the accurate specs are for the sundown audio SAZ 1500d v.3 is? I lost the paper work for this and i've found 2 sites that claim to have the specs but they are different from one another. I'm just trying to figure out the accurate inline fuse to use and the accurate watts.

which would you get?why? RF T10001db or Sundown 1500D for a 12 Fi Q w/BP power

i have been looking around and seeing alot of people using external equalizers. my setup right now is 3 pairs of coaxial speakers and 2 re audio 10 inch subwoofers. i have a kenwood deck with the basic bass,mid and treble settings on it. my question is ,is it worth buying an external eq and will i see a big difference with it. i listen to a lot of rap so its bass heavy. and also if i should get an eq any suggestions on what brands ? i have a budget of about 100 to 150$ on one . thanks

So I plug in the ground and it fine. Then I plug in the power and it starts to fry. The same thing happens in vise versa. What could becausing this? He has a 99 camry, his amp is a Hifonics Titan 750.2.

Hey guys, I have an 03 BUICK CENTURY v6. I recently put in a 12 in SSA GCON . Built a custom box 2.25 net @33 hz slot ported. Ran all ofc knuconcepts 4 gauge. Monster rca's . Active loc and factory head unit. Amp is a Rockford prime 750.1 running at 1ohm into the GCON... Now u know what I got, well last nite I got her all hooked up, went to test her out, and every time my bass hits my headlights blink with the bass! I hate cars with systems that do that... Can anyone tell me why?? I was told I would be fine running factory elec with 750 watts? Even less actually because I barely had the gain up cuz my GCON is brand new! Even at low-moderate volume it is doing it..…

I am looking to buy a double din video headunit so that I can have a backup camera. The alpine is my favorite so far but the cheapest I can find it for is $600 which is pushing my budget but I can sell my alpine 9886 and garmin for around $300-350 all together. Just pick which one you would get and why or which one you would stay away from if you have heard something... reason for getting it is i need a HU that supports rear view cameras because my tint I will be getting will make backing up at night hell. Must have functions are rearview camera and ipod full control (hence why i favor the alpine) all other things are extras but not mandatory. Thanks, Patrone

so lately all of sudden my system will be playing and the bass randomly quits and i dont even have the system up loud or bass up alot. sometimes when it happens i can turn the sound down and it will cut back on. the whole amp cuts off looks like. its in a 2002 s-10 stock alt bat have an us amps md1d and ten inch re sx any help with this? im in the process checking all connections right now

Hey fellas I've been researching this and would love some input. It's a 2002 Mercedes C230K 2.3L with one stock H-8 type batt under the hood and soon to be an XS Power XP3000 in the back. Wasn't able to find anything XS made for under the hood but if I could find one or another of similar quality, I'd go for it. Otherwise it's a stock batt but it is brand new. I'd like to use the Synergy Audio 35.1D as well as 1-2 more amps for the front stage. Call it 4k watts total guesstimate. Now looking at conversion tables, 4k watts is a 278 amp draw in a 14.4 voltage system. No, I don't believe I would be pulling that much power continually but more of a ceiling. I'm no…

I'd like some opinions on where I should have my voltage metered from. Currently it's hooked up to the battery so I know how much voltage is at my battery, but should I have it wired straight to the alternator or the amp? I'm stuck between battery and amp. I'd like to know voltage to my amp but I'd also like to know voltage to my battery. I guess I can buy another one. But what would you guys do? How do you have your volt meters set up? And do you guys have your power wire for your volt meter fused?

Ok, I have a MMATS DHCx 2200.1 hooked up to 4 single voicecoil kicker comp c12's 8 ohm each for a final load of 2 ohms. The amp is a mono channel. The problem is, sometimes when I get in the car and turn the radio on the amplifier goes strait into protect. You can still hear it playing at a very low wolume ie. 2 or 3 bars on the radio but if you turn it up any louder the sound fades away and sometimes I can turn it on and it plays fine. It usually doesn't do it unless the car has been sitting for a while. When it does this, the only way I've found to get it back playing correctly is to unhook the load from the amp turn the power off and turn it back on and reconnect t…

I bought an autotek mm 2500.1 quite awhile ago, and have been running it at 2 ohms, and it's been great. Onlinecarstereo.com claims it's stable at 1 ohm, putting out 2500 rms. It's a $150 amp... I'm hella skeptical, because of that, so I came here to see if anyone has an experience with the Mean Machine's running down to that load.

Does this make sense? Am I looking at this right? What I would like to do it setup my starter battery to an aux battery... I can connect the 2 negative terminals from both batteries okay, is it safe? Also, would I then still have to ground the aux battery to chassis? is it just good to have an extra ground off the aux battery? Could the amps be connected to the negative terminals of the aux battery if I have both terminals from the 2 batteries connected? Help me make sense of this or tell me how to do this better... Didn't think this was advanced so I made a generic post... thanks guys or does this work better?

Like the title says, im looking at a AQ3500. im not sure if its the old one or the new one so i have a few questions i would like to ask..... 1. how can u tell the difference between the new and old one? 2. how much do they go for in good condition and 3. is there naything specific i need to be looking for when im looking at the amp??? I looked on **** and seen them going for 550-600 shipped and i have the chance to get one for...... well id rather not say until its a done deal. let just say its a GOOD deal haha. LMK fellas. thanks

ok i accedently hooked the rem turn on power to the output of the radio, and now no sound comes from it :angry: I beleive i have fucked up the internal amp on it...does anyone know a way to get a new one or have this fixed..

are these amps any good.. looking at the nano series... well the issue is that the nanoblock 4 claims to be 2000 watts rms cea compliant but only costs 279.. does any one use these amps or know anything about them? cause that price is really fishy for that amount of power