Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Ok I am about to work on the charging system now and need some ideas. I have upgraded the alternator to 220 and still need to change the three wires. I will be running a few batteries in the back of the car that are different from the cars battery. I am using a stinger master for the car now and have 3 SVR80 in the car for the system I do have a 15f cap as well but not sure if I need to use it. Can someone help me out here a little so I get this done right. Thanks PT

Ok so this kid at school was like his friends dad was an EE, and he could wire shit up real tight like, like a ps2 and xbox mod ....but then i ask him does he have his # and he's like no, man i coulda got the hook up right there, but anyway, where can i get an amp modded at?????

Hey guys, I have an 03 BUICK CENTURY v6. I recently put in a 12 in SSA GCON . Built a custom box 2.25 net @33 hz slot ported. Ran all ofc knuconcepts 4 gauge. Monster rca's . Active loc and factory head unit. Amp is a Rockford prime 750.1 running at 1ohm into the GCON... Now u know what I got, well last nite I got her all hooked up, went to test her out, and every time my bass hits my headlights blink with the bass! I hate cars with systems that do that... Can anyone tell me why?? I was told I would be fine running factory elec with 750 watts? Even less actually because I barely had the gain up cuz my GCON is brand new! Even at low-moderate volume it is doing it..…

I am looking to buy a double din video headunit so that I can have a backup camera. The alpine is my favorite so far but the cheapest I can find it for is $600 which is pushing my budget but I can sell my alpine 9886 and garmin for around $300-350 all together. Just pick which one you would get and why or which one you would stay away from if you have heard something... reason for getting it is i need a HU that supports rear view cameras because my tint I will be getting will make backing up at night hell. Must have functions are rearview camera and ipod full control (hence why i favor the alpine) all other things are extras but not mandatory. Thanks, Patrone

so lately all of sudden my system will be playing and the bass randomly quits and i dont even have the system up loud or bass up alot. sometimes when it happens i can turn the sound down and it will cut back on. the whole amp cuts off looks like. its in a 2002 s-10 stock alt bat have an us amps md1d and ten inch re sx any help with this? im in the process checking all connections right now

Hey fellas I've been researching this and would love some input. It's a 2002 Mercedes C230K 2.3L with one stock H-8 type batt under the hood and soon to be an XS Power XP3000 in the back. Wasn't able to find anything XS made for under the hood but if I could find one or another of similar quality, I'd go for it. Otherwise it's a stock batt but it is brand new. I'd like to use the Synergy Audio 35.1D as well as 1-2 more amps for the front stage. Call it 4k watts total guesstimate. Now looking at conversion tables, 4k watts is a 278 amp draw in a 14.4 voltage system. No, I don't believe I would be pulling that much power continually but more of a ceiling. I'm no…

I'd like some opinions on where I should have my voltage metered from. Currently it's hooked up to the battery so I know how much voltage is at my battery, but should I have it wired straight to the alternator or the amp? I'm stuck between battery and amp. I'd like to know voltage to my amp but I'd also like to know voltage to my battery. I guess I can buy another one. But what would you guys do? How do you have your volt meters set up? And do you guys have your power wire for your volt meter fused?

I bought an autotek mm 2500.1 quite awhile ago, and have been running it at 2 ohms, and it's been great. Onlinecarstereo.com claims it's stable at 1 ohm, putting out 2500 rms. It's a $150 amp... I'm hella skeptical, because of that, so I came here to see if anyone has an experience with the Mean Machine's running down to that load.

Does this make sense? Am I looking at this right? What I would like to do it setup my starter battery to an aux battery... I can connect the 2 negative terminals from both batteries okay, is it safe? Also, would I then still have to ground the aux battery to chassis? is it just good to have an extra ground off the aux battery? Could the amps be connected to the negative terminals of the aux battery if I have both terminals from the 2 batteries connected? Help me make sense of this or tell me how to do this better... Didn't think this was advanced so I made a generic post... thanks guys or does this work better?

Like the title says, im looking at a AQ3500. im not sure if its the old one or the new one so i have a few questions i would like to ask..... 1. how can u tell the difference between the new and old one? 2. how much do they go for in good condition and 3. is there naything specific i need to be looking for when im looking at the amp??? I looked on **** and seen them going for 550-600 shipped and i have the chance to get one for...... well id rather not say until its a done deal. let just say its a GOOD deal haha. LMK fellas. thanks

are these amps any good.. looking at the nano series... well the issue is that the nanoblock 4 claims to be 2000 watts rms cea compliant but only costs 279.. does any one use these amps or know anything about them? cause that price is really fishy for that amount of power

Ok so I'm in the market to buy another amp for my new sub setup. My Car is a 94 Legend Coupe 6.5" Infinity Kappa Fronts 6x9' Infinity Kappa Rears USAMPS XT1600.4 V2 Amp Running the Kappa's Now I'm needing to power (1) 15-inch RE SXX D2 Subwoofer in a 35hz Ported 3cft Custom Fiberglass/Wood Spare Tire Enclosure These are the amps im looking at : USAMPS MD-2D 1500rms@1ohm $319.99 MTX TE1501D 1500rms@1ohm $369.99 Kicker KX1500.1 1500rms@2ohms $359.99 (if I get this amp I would buy the RE SXX D4 of course) So what amp should I get? The car is a daily driver, so efficiency and SQ is important to a certain extent but not a MUST, im willin to sacrifice some efficiency for power.…

ive read afew "big three how to guides" on sites and forums. guess i can start with what i am runing in the car. kenwood excelon x10d -- 600rms tsunami 1.2 farad cap **adding small 2 channel no more then 250rms (total)** 1 run- kicker 4 gauge battery---- car was baught used. evidence of this being a second battery however it is not a deep cycle i believe the stock alt is like 105 amps (not sure though) ok now with the questions. some one mensioned that a cap isnt needed becasue its just putts a bigger strain on the electrical system. however after installing the cap i noticed better quality proformance from my subs. according to some websites i have read a cap can …

I just picked up an amp off a buddy of mine, and 2 of the allen head screws to tighten down the speaker wires are stripped. Was just wondering if any of you knew where to pick those up at individually? I'd rather get phillips head screws to replace them so I don't have to hunt down an allen set everytime I need to adjust something. Thanks

I have done a few searches and have come up empty. Does anyone on this forum have and experience with this? I know it has been done several times before. To be more specific I want to use just the screen from the i-pad 3 as a monitor. If anyone has done something similar before please share some of your hard earned knowledge. Thanks.

I just picked up a Alpine MRD-M1000 mono block for $100 today and need help setting it up. I downloaded the manual offline but its not very help full. Its pushing 2 Earthquake DBX10 in a ported box. Each dbx is in a 1.75cu.ft tuned at 33 hertz. Some of the setting I did today are: input 2ch gain +6db LPF 80 hertz SUB 25 hertz I have been looking online for answers but having a hard time finding anything helpful. Any help would be great, thanks.

what is going on here? i had a ZX1500.1 for 5 and a half years with zero issues on stock electric between 3 different vehicles. My ZX2500.1 died earlier this year after only about 4 months of use, i sent it off to kicker for repair and got it back, not long after i lost my sub and had to buy a new one. this amp as is has been used less than a month and a half. i was bumping at close to max volume day before yesterday, i arrive at my destination with time to spare so i sit in the truck with the engine off for about 45 min doing paper work with the stereo on at 1/4 volume. i had to run into the store so i shut off the truck accessories and go in, i come back out and turn …

I do not want to run an amp @ 1/2 ohm. I have two dual 2 subs. I can get a Massive P3000.1 for $618.99, bnib, but it has to come over the border, so I'm not sure what border fees will be and stuff. MA Audio HK4000D http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=14753 MA Audio HK802SX http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=14738 I've heard both of these are power hogs.. I was thinking of going with a 200 amp alternator, and some extra batteries, would this be enough? I haven't found the batteries yet. I could also buy two SAZ-1500Ds, old heat sink design from dB-r. However that is really more than I'm wanting to spend. What else is out there?

Anyone Know What Kind Of Amp This Is? Or Could Anyone Link Me In The Right Direction. Thanx

Im just wondering what one of these runs for new. I found out that one of the local shops is a dealer. Before i go walking in there to fart on their knowledge like is my monthly ritual i'd like to know what these run for. Depending i may bite it and buy one assumeing it has the pause feature. I like the look of the CD3434 but i like the plain/almost stock look MUCH better.

has anyone had expeirience with these or the 4000 what are the + and- to them? Are they power hungery compaired to other amps in the same power class? Thanks MC

So as of yesterday I now have a small amount of noise creeping in . Nothings changed . I have two batteries under the hood , both are grounded to the frame with 0 gauge. The alt body is grounded to one of the batteries. All the amps are grounded to a distribution block which is grounded to the frame ,and body . I'm going to check all the connections , but am I doing something wrong. I never had any noise before yesterday.

Hi, I recently purchased a used Alumapro 15 Farad Cap. The guy I bought it from was using it with no relay or solenoid which Alumapro provides when purchased new. Am I ok with using it how he had it with no accessories? I've asked around but not many people are too familiar with The CAP. Thanks!

Im just looking for a little info on what you guys think the best headunit out of the above choices would be. They are all capable of running active frontstage which is what im looking for. And im pretty sure I can get them at or around the same price. Any of you guys with experience with any of the choices, please post any likes/dislikes. Thanks.

Any information on this amp would be helpful. Read a lot of good things on the web but sometimes it's hard to find the bad. You guys have any input about them.