Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hi, I recently purchased a used Alumapro 15 Farad Cap. The guy I bought it from was using it with no relay or solenoid which Alumapro provides when purchased new. Am I ok with using it how he had it with no accessories? I've asked around but not many people are too familiar with The CAP. Thanks!

has anyone had expeirience with these or the 4000 what are the + and- to them? Are they power hungery compaired to other amps in the same power class? Thanks MC

I just picked up a Alpine MRD-M1000 mono block for $100 today and need help setting it up. I downloaded the manual offline but its not very help full. Its pushing 2 Earthquake DBX10 in a ported box. Each dbx is in a 1.75cu.ft tuned at 33 hertz. Some of the setting I did today are: input 2ch gain +6db LPF 80 hertz SUB 25 hertz I have been looking online for answers but having a hard time finding anything helpful. Any help would be great, thanks.

I have a problem with my Pioneer aftermarket radio turning off then back on for no reason. I first thought it may have been loose wiring and hitting bumps in the road was causing it until it started happen while sitting still. I had it sent to service center and they couldn't duplicate it. Then had it sent directly to Pioneer and they supposed replaced motherboard. That didn't help. So sent it back and they ended up replacing the unit. Same thing happened again with new unit. I checked all the wiring and everything was tight. Even replaced some butt splices. When I mean turn off then back on, I'm referring to the unit turning back on to my station. It wasn't resetting its…

I'd like some opinions on where I should have my voltage metered from. Currently it's hooked up to the battery so I know how much voltage is at my battery, but should I have it wired straight to the alternator or the amp? I'm stuck between battery and amp. I'd like to know voltage to my amp but I'd also like to know voltage to my battery. I guess I can buy another one. But what would you guys do? How do you have your volt meters set up? And do you guys have your power wire for your volt meter fused?

Hey guys, I have an 03 BUICK CENTURY v6. I recently put in a 12 in SSA GCON . Built a custom box 2.25 net @33 hz slot ported. Ran all ofc knuconcepts 4 gauge. Monster rca's . Active loc and factory head unit. Amp is a Rockford prime 750.1 running at 1ohm into the GCON... Now u know what I got, well last nite I got her all hooked up, went to test her out, and every time my bass hits my headlights blink with the bass! I hate cars with systems that do that... Can anyone tell me why?? I was told I would be fine running factory elec with 750 watts? Even less actually because I barely had the gain up cuz my GCON is brand new! Even at low-moderate volume it is doing it..…

I have looked all over and can not find a high output alternator for a 2006 Nissan Sentra 1.8L. Any help?

So i purchased a stetsom 7KD and I am curious what the external fuse rating is. i looked up the manual online but it only has info for the two ohm version. The one i purchased is the one ohm 12 volt version. Also when i install this amp I will add another battery or two to what i have.I have noticed that a lot of setups have unfused connections on their terminals. As of now i have two batteries with two fuses 12 inches from each terminal. so if i install a third would i need another two fuses or would that only be necessary if they were a certain distance apart? And of course when i do the install i will do another positive run and dual input terminals. Thanks

So I plug in the ground and it fine. Then I plug in the power and it starts to fry. The same thing happens in vise versa. What could becausing this? He has a 99 camry, his amp is a Hifonics Titan 750.2.

I have a Kenwood x793 HU. I love the features on it. I use a USB 16gig thumb drive 95% of the time. I do compete. I am currently at around 146-147 db. The problem is the faceplate shuts off at high volume. This poses a problem as you can't turn the volume down or anything when it goes off. If I press in the faceplate it will not shut off. My question is has anyone ever had this issue and if so how did you fix it? I thought about soldering jumper wires from the faceplate to the HU. I never take the faceplate off. I'm not sure this would work or not. Thanks

Ok so some of you may have read my other thread about the RF amp. Well I put my AQ 4X90 back in and bridged it on my fronts and got a naaaasty engine whine. I checked the ground, it was tight. I tried both my sub rca's and another pair of rca's they both make the noise. Sub amp makes no noise. When I disconnect the rca's the noise stops. I moved the ground so that my sub amp and the AQ's grounds were seperate, still got the noise. The noise stays loud regardless of head unit volume. I put the RF amp back in and it makes the same noise. I'm very clueless and frustrated. I followed the noise guide but none of it helped.

Ok so I'm in the market to buy another amp for my new sub setup. My Car is a 94 Legend Coupe 6.5" Infinity Kappa Fronts 6x9' Infinity Kappa Rears USAMPS XT1600.4 V2 Amp Running the Kappa's Now I'm needing to power (1) 15-inch RE SXX D2 Subwoofer in a 35hz Ported 3cft Custom Fiberglass/Wood Spare Tire Enclosure These are the amps im looking at : USAMPS MD-2D 1500rms@1ohm $319.99 MTX TE1501D 1500rms@1ohm $369.99 Kicker KX1500.1 1500rms@2ohms $359.99 (if I get this amp I would buy the RE SXX D4 of course) So what amp should I get? The car is a daily driver, so efficiency and SQ is important to a certain extent but not a MUST, im willin to sacrifice some efficiency for power.…

ive read afew "big three how to guides" on sites and forums. guess i can start with what i am runing in the car. kenwood excelon x10d -- 600rms tsunami 1.2 farad cap **adding small 2 channel no more then 250rms (total)** 1 run- kicker 4 gauge battery---- car was baught used. evidence of this being a second battery however it is not a deep cycle i believe the stock alt is like 105 amps (not sure though) ok now with the questions. some one mensioned that a cap isnt needed becasue its just putts a bigger strain on the electrical system. however after installing the cap i noticed better quality proformance from my subs. according to some websites i have read a cap can …

so lately all of sudden my system will be playing and the bass randomly quits and i dont even have the system up loud or bass up alot. sometimes when it happens i can turn the sound down and it will cut back on. the whole amp cuts off looks like. its in a 2002 s-10 stock alt bat have an us amps md1d and ten inch re sx any help with this? im in the process checking all connections right now

I am trying to decide between (2) new AudioQue 2200ds or (2) used or refurbished Sundown SAZ-2000ds. I want to spend less than 800 and will be driving 4 D4 Elemental Designs 13Av.2s. I want to link 2 and I am hoping to get around 1100 to 1300 to each sub and they will be in a new box slightly over 8.8 ft.^3 tuned to 29hz. I have proper electrical so that won't be an issue so just some opinions on what your experiences are with the amps and which ones you would buy. Thanks.

Im just looking for a little info on what you guys think the best headunit out of the above choices would be. They are all capable of running active frontstage which is what im looking for. And im pretty sure I can get them at or around the same price. Any of you guys with experience with any of the choices, please post any likes/dislikes. Thanks.

Im going to be strapping my 2 audiopipe apsm1300, essentially the master amp will control both amps. The amps strapped together are suppose to do ~2000watts @ 2 ohms. Is it possible to hook them up strapped and do DMM tuning by putting the probes on each amps terminal? The master amp is the + and the slave amp is the - ... does this work? ~63volt for the DMM meter... sqrt(2000 * 2ohm)

Im just wondering what one of these runs for new. I found out that one of the local shops is a dealer. Before i go walking in there to fart on their knowledge like is my monthly ritual i'd like to know what these run for. Depending i may bite it and buy one assumeing it has the pause feature. I like the look of the CD3434 but i like the plain/almost stock look MUCH better.

I bought an autotek mm 2500.1 quite awhile ago, and have been running it at 2 ohms, and it's been great. Onlinecarstereo.com claims it's stable at 1 ohm, putting out 2500 rms. It's a $150 amp... I'm hella skeptical, because of that, so I came here to see if anyone has an experience with the Mean Machine's running down to that load.

Does anyone know if the first line of Soundstream D-tower amps where made by Soundstream or Power Akoustik? It seems like a solid amp and can run at .25 ohm no sweat. Does anyone happen to know?

are these amps any good.. looking at the nano series... well the issue is that the nanoblock 4 claims to be 2000 watts rms cea compliant but only costs 279.. does any one use these amps or know anything about them? cause that price is really fishy for that amount of power

I see people saying their rms "clamped" all the time, I'm curious to know what my Memphis is actually putting out. I have an amp probe and a dmm. How would I go about clamping my amp to see the power it is putting out?

I have an alpine CDA-9853. I'm not sure what would be the best way to set it up. The crossover has front/rear/sub, I'm not sure about the slope and what Hz to tune them to for best sound. I have the front / rear set to 100hz and the slope to 24. It goes flat/6/12/18/24. I would like some advice on how to tune these. The subwoofer setting is what I'm most concerned about. I have a FI BL 12 and blew it. Now in the process of re coning it =( I'm also not sure what to set my amps LPF to.... I was told 80hz but I want to be sure. Many people also mentioned bass boost being bad, is this true? And one more question, should I keep my subwoofer level on 0 at all time…

what would be a good o-scope for a reasonable price, only want to use it for tuning amps, thanks

I've had this unit working in my truck for about a year and a half now no problems and yesterday I get in and it turns on plays fine for a few minutes then the screen goes black and I lose all sound. When I turn on my truck all the buttons will light up and I hear the internal fan turn on, also powers on my amps but still no sound or screen. Things I've checked -Inline fuse on the yellow cord (Good) -Remove the button cluster and trying the reset button -Remove the negative cord from my battery for a few mins and hooking it back up and trying to start the unit -Truck running and off with accessory -Removed the radio and plug it in to a 12 volt power supply None of t…