Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Here is the situation, amp is irrelevant, here is the scene- Stock alternator, car on, over 14v at idle, starting battery up front, XS D3100 batt in the back(reads 13.0 float), so i gots plenty of battery power for this amp which requires a 200A fuse. I start to oscope the amp on a 48hz tone set to repeat. Every now and then, there would be a "THUD" sound that would quickly come from the amp. Unknown as to why but we continue to scope anyway. I do not know if it's relevant or not. Anyways, subsonic set to off, LPF set all the way up, bass boost OFF, phase 0, gain - all the way DOWN. All settings on HU were flat, sub preout set to 15, Kenwood HU. Volume goes to 35. I sta…

I'm nearing the finish line in an installation that includes a new HU with FT/RT, FR/LT RR/RT RR/LT, and a SUB output, plus an unmarked, unidentified in the manual, RCA output on the back of the HU next to the SUB output. I have a 5 channel amp that has Channels 1(white), 2(red), 3(white) and 4(red) marked clearly on the amp, plus a SUB RT(white) and SUB LFT(red) input, all input by RCA. The same amp has 4 sets of output terminals, 1 each for + & -. It also has 2 terminals for the sub (+ & -), which connects to the sub on R &L posts. So, first question: How do I run a cable from the HU, which is 1 RCA connection, to the AMP, which has both LT and RT RC…

anybody own this amp? what do you think about it? i was told it will not do what it says, has anybody put an o scope on one ? im going to put it on one fully loaded fi btl 15, if it has enough power i would like to put two on it any suggestions?

epicenter....... when/why do people use them..... are they a waste of money??

So I was driving to school int he morning and I noticed that the volume of my bass was decreasing and it eventually cut out completely. When I got to school I opened my hood and found my fuse holder deformed and melted. Anyone know why this happened? And I cant open the damn thing to put a new fuse in =(

Well I have ran into something here and I think I may have gotten lucky on my part.... My friend who is going to help me install my car system here whenever I get everything together. He told me that he has a 5 farad cap and that I could have it from him for a few cases of...beverages. Now I am curious about this seeing as I was told to stay away from caps and just get a battery bank. What questions should I ask him when deciding if I want this or not? He says its pretty new and was only installed into his car system once. Then he took it out due to too many tickets over a week (must have been dumb about it) and never put it back in. Now for the serious question here, sho…

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/4286673028.html I'm looking at amps that are being sold locally, and was wondering if this is a true 2k rms. If so, it's a steal for 160

it will be my first time buying a high output alternator what else would i need other than a deepcycle battery and voltmeter thank you

According to PowerBass 3XL product info, a Class D amplifier heats a subwoofer voice coil 2 to 3 times hotter and faster than a class a/b amplifier. Is there any truth to this? I'm not an electrical engineer, nor a amp design expert, but I've never heard this before. http://www.powerbassusa.com/3xl-series

just wondering what rca cables people recommend when it comes to price and performance?

I am looking for different options so that I can price match and do some reviews. So let me know what you guys can think of. Also if you know the site where I can read up on the info on em would be great THANKS GUYS!

What happens if you listen to your subs when your car is off? Will my battery die?

Hey guys, so i'm at a stump with my electrical in my car. I have two sundown SA-15's in my Honda CRV being powered by a hifonics HFI 1500d. I would love to upgrade my amplifier and get about 2500 watts to the subs but my voltage is too low for that type of power. I have been searching for a compatible high output alternator with the CRV for a while now, but have had no luck. Also the alternator is located under the engine so I would have to pay a shop to go in there and install it. All lots of money i don't have to spend. Are there any other ways i can give my electrical system a boost to maintain that 13.8+ to power a higher wattage amplifier? I have already done the big…

Okay heres the deal.. i should within the next 2 hours or so recieve my two Powerbase xs 15's from ups.. I want to use crossfire amps.. your not gonna change my mind. any how I've been looking for a deal on them. And not on ones where the red light is on or it accidentally fell out of your truck on the free way, but you think it still works lol.. preferably new wit ha warranty. I'm working on building a show truck.. well daily driver/show vehicle. Here's what I'd like to accomplish 1993 ford explorer.. to be painted electric blue as soon as i get a free weekend to start body work.. rain = yuck 4x powerbase xs 15's - have two so far. will buy the other two if i can find a …

Though I have a ton of old Sony ES head gear in my collection, I have decided to go modern for my wife's ride, a 2003 Aviator. I am pretty much sold on a touch screen double din unit, but I have been out of the "game" for so long that I really dont know what is "quality" anymore. I have been looking hard at the Alpine INA-W900BT.....but it only has 2volt outs??? I plan on keeping the rest of the system stock for now, definitely want to retain steering wheel controls(I know the Alpine requires an additional module). Would eventually like to go with a full blown SQ all active system, so I want to plan for the future. Reliability is must as well.... My question is....w…

So , I just noticed that my power cap volt meter is droping to around 11.04 volts when I have my system pounding to its potential - can anyone tell me what to look for as the problem with this - 11.04 cant be right , its usually around 12.5-13.4 , and it drops that low for only a second . My setup is this : Red top under my hood -> isolator -> yellow top in the trunk -> 1.2 farad cap -> amps " Kicker 4ch 70x4rms " , and " Orion 2400D 1200x1@1ohm " . The cap has been grounded seperately from the yellow top - they each have there own , my system is running 4 ga. wire , power and ground .

I have had a fi x12 with a powerbass asa 400.2 amp in a ported box in my truck for a while now and i had an old pyramid amp that i wired to put on my front doors. The only wires i added was the signals from the 2 channel to the front door speakers and an rca cable for that amp from the head unit. I used the power wire from the sub amp to also go to the 2 channel and i put a seperate ground for the 2 channel. Both of my rca cables run with my power and remote wires. I ran my speaker wires a different way because i thought that was why the noise was there. The grounds are good... But whys it making the hum noise when tye music is low or off... And a big thud when everything…

I have 2 large 100aH AGM batteries in the rear and a factory sized AGM under the hood. A cpl weeks ago I went to start the van and it was dead. I got it started and voltage was terribly low. I only ran it for a few minutes then let it sit, restarted a few times for a few minutes...I dont have a charger. After a couple days everything seemed back to normal. I watch the factory gauge a lot closer and am surprised at how much voltage can change day to day while running, independant of hot days to cold days. Some times it runs around 13.5V other times 14.2V, even in the same day, sometimes 14.2V when its warmer and been driving and sometimes 13.5V when its colder and/or less …

I have a pretty simple question regarding use of the remote gain knob for my SAX-1200D. Say I turn the gain on my amp all the way up to max. Obviously not recommended. However, if my remote gain is only set to... lets say 1/4 of the way up, would my sub still be at risk of high clipping and bad distortion ? From what I've read, the remote gain is just what it's name implies, a quick and easy way to turn up or down the gain without having to fiddle with the amp itself. So if that's the case, even if the amps gain is set to max but the remote only 1/4 the way up, it should be the same as running the amp itself at 1/4 gain, correct ? Now I've been testing this out la…

like the topic title says i just bought a used dcon. but im looking to get an amp to power it what is the best amp for the money to power this 12" single ohm sub? im on a tight budget here so what would be the cheapest but good amp i can use any help is appreciated.

Just wondering how many of you guys actually use these things..

i was seeing what you guys recommend for a small amp (small size) i was looking at an amp maybe under the dash something that doesnt take alot current draw...i was looking for 100 watts rms and a price limit of about 300 dollars...i have 4-6 1/2 alpine type s 4 ohm speakers....im not looking to win a award with them just something to get a little more output out of them

I kow that I've asked some of these questions before, but a few ideas came to my head this morning since I'm not satisfied with the results. Equipment: 10" AA Arsenal Sealed enclosure Factory Headunit 1 Stinger LOC 1 ZED Minilith Here's the deal. Everything is connected well. I have a good ground, wires, and RCA's. The sub is getting a bit of a warble sound to it a low volumes (I'm sure it is still there when the volume is up,but the music is covering it up). In order for me to get any output in this sucker, the gain has to be almost all the way up and I don't like that. Something is wrong. Here is what I've been thinking... I really think that a four channel LOC would be…

I am trying to decide what amps to use ot run my new system that i am building I have been looking at the mmats 3500.1 and the us amps 3500de I am going to run 4 ts-w 3002d2 subs but I have never used either one of these products I have read great reviews on these amps but here in louisiana where i am from there arent anyone around here that runs these amps or sells them so iam going to have to buy direct from these companies so any incite would be great and if anyone else has any other good amp suggestions that are in the 3 to 4,000 watt range please let me know. Thanks

So I go to put my 3400 in after charging. It took it off the charger put it in the car check it with a DMM and reading 13.7v or so. So I hook everything up and start the truck. Voltage reads 15.1 then down to 14.8 on my stinger meter. I go to check my 3400 with a DMM and it reads 13.78v WTF. So I check my amp wires they read 14.8 WTF. So I check the 3400 again it still reads 13.78-13.79. Then I check my stock it's reading 14.8. My wires are ran like this Alt POS to POS on 3400 Alt POS to POS on stock POS from 3400 to POS on amp. My questions are. Is my amp wires reading 14.8 but my 3400 is reading 13.78? Is it because my 3400 is fully charged so it's not accepting the c…