Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Oh my, what is the world coming to... http://www.edesignaudio.com/wire_cat.php?catid=48

i was seeing what you guys recommend for a small amp (small size) i was looking at an amp maybe under the dash something that doesnt take alot current draw...i was looking for 100 watts rms and a price limit of about 300 dollars...i have 4-6 1/2 alpine type s 4 ohm speakers....im not looking to win a award with them just something to get a little more output out of them

like the topic title says i just bought a used dcon. but im looking to get an amp to power it what is the best amp for the money to power this 12" single ohm sub? im on a tight budget here so what would be the cheapest but good amp i can use any help is appreciated.

Round about where is the 30hz mark on the SSF adjustment?And the 80hz mark on the LPF

Recently my Orion Amp I had, pushin a Soundqubed HDS3.1-15" rated 1200RMS, crapped out! I'm lookin for replacement that's affordable & CAPABLE of rated 1200RMS needed to really experience my Soundqubed. I paid $125 for my Orion 2500.1D & it was rated 1200RMS @1ohm but I doubt it ever made that. I thought 1200RMS for $125 seemed too good to be true. I know I'm not goin back that route, so I'm curious of opinions on Amps under the $200 mark that I can afford & hopefully won't crap out after 9mons like my Orion & hopefully produce 1200RMS. I have a few options/manufacturers that I'm looking at that I'll list, plz give any opinions you have bout these …

My friend has this amplifier, and I've been looking on various websites, and everywhere says it does 1200 watts RMS into 2 ohms, anyone know if this is true? Because I can get this amplifier for very cheap, it has a problem though.... It doesn't turn off. As soon as we connected the negative wire, it turned on, remote wire wasn't even hooked into the amplifier yet. But anyways, does this thing really do 1200 watts RMS into 2 ohms?

Well I have a kicker 500Si and it ran into a problem when I got it. I hooked it up and it would go into protection mode after 5 seconds. I sent it in to kicker after asking them on the phone if it could be fixed and after two weeks they emailed me back and said that they could not fix it. I know they could because anyone that's can fix amps can fix mine. Well I want to know if any of you guys may know how to fix this amp. The man I was going to go through just retired. I also have a kicker 40ss that has the same problem. Any help would be great. Kicker rocks!!! B)

i was wondering whats the correct way to connect a audiocontrol dqxs & audiocontrol epicenter since i was told to put my epicenter before the dqxs and not after dqxs can some correct this for me please

Anyone know if this is really a mono amp as some say? Specs say it's a 2 channel 50 x 2 @ 4 ohms, 80 x 1 @ 4 ohms, and 100 into 8 ohms. I've read that the amp was mislabeled at the factory and is in fact a mono amp. Figured this would be the best place to ask with all the old school fanatics on this forum. Thanks.

both are rated at about the same at all ohm levels, and are priced the same. any reason to chose on over the other?

So after asking many questions and buying everything that I need according to people on this forum I have an issue. I have 1 15"bl in my truck with a fosgate 1000bd. Everyone on here has told me I need another cell 0 guage wire, and to do the big 3. Every stereo shop that I went to here says that 0 guage is over doing it. They also say I will be fine with 1 yellowtop and that running 0 guage from the battery is pointless cause the current wire on it is way better than 0 guage is. They say 4 guage is plenty and all I need to do is run the 0 guage from the battery to the amp. Nothing else. They actually said that my 4 guage is fine. So what do I do??? Is it really …

hey guys im goin to be runnin a second batt in my trunk and let me get this right is this all i need wire wise stock batt+....fuse....+kinetik...fuse....distro...amp stock batt-.........-kinetik....amp and i will have a big 3 with a inline fuse form the alt to my stock batt all this being 1/0 thanks in advance

I've started looking at amps for my SPl set up so I know how much I need to save. I really dont want to spend more than $500 but i know that is kinda hard. Im looking for something that can drive my Ava at 4ohm well or 1ohm with the gains down and do some good SPL runs at 1ohm with my Custom Woofage DP. I was looking at the 20.1 but that is alot of money. Kicker, Orion, they all cost lots of money for lots of power. I know power cost money but does anyone know where i can get the hook up? Ive yet to talk to my GF's uncle about a kicker amp. assumeing i could get one what would be a good amp to suit my needs.

Hey guys just recieved my Alternator today from Singer Should hope to install it over the weekend let me know what you think? Its going in a 2004 f250

I was just given an orion d2400 its powers on but goes into protect then esp then protect again. I opened it up and i dont see anything wrong no fried mosfets in fact i dont see anything fried. Still smells new im gonna have a diagnostic done on it but what do you all think is wrong

Has someone out there tested the American Bass vfl-120.1 maybe some 14 an 16v numbers? Thanks for any help.

Im on a tight budget and am not resorting to Hifonics, so my other option is Audioque 1200D. I know a lot of people on here are Sundown lovvers, but I havent heard anything bad about Audioque other than 1 person having a problem on here a long time ago. Anyone got anything they could share with Audioque, I know the son or father 1 of the 2 also owns and runs Digital Designs, so cant be all that bad right?

Here is the situation, amp is irrelevant, here is the scene- Stock alternator, car on, over 14v at idle, starting battery up front, XS D3100 batt in the back(reads 13.0 float), so i gots plenty of battery power for this amp which requires a 200A fuse. I start to oscope the amp on a 48hz tone set to repeat. Every now and then, there would be a "THUD" sound that would quickly come from the amp. Unknown as to why but we continue to scope anyway. I do not know if it's relevant or not. Anyways, subsonic set to off, LPF set all the way up, bass boost OFF, phase 0, gain - all the way DOWN. All settings on HU were flat, sub preout set to 15, Kenwood HU. Volume goes to 35. I sta…

Has anyone used a Duracell Platinum AGM battery before? It's the largest AGM I can fit under my hood, 94r. Sam's club has them for $169; http://www.samsclub.com/sams/auto-grp-94r-h7-agm-36-mo-free/prod9510086.ip?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default Ford put the smallest battery possible in my car to save weight, I'm thinking they counterbalanced that by using a 150A alternator. There are two pieces that hold the battery in place that, once removed, accept a 94r. Should I go for this battery or does anyone have any other suggestions?

i've seen the outside, but never the inside looks like something out of a science fiction movie

I might be in the market for one in a few months and was wondering whats the consensous around here to get a great H.O.

Amp warranty at .5 ohms?

Looking at the KDC-X792, looks like its got all the right features. 3x4v preouts, USB/iPod connection, aux connection, 2nd aux option, PAC wire, attenuator, 24 bit DAC, and the oh-so-handy Attenuator aka "Oh s... a cop" button. I like how it looks, and it sounds like I could integrate it well into my future car, with the USB jack replacing the stock iPod connector, and rewiring the stock 3.5mm AUX input to go to the HU. Anyone have any experience with the Excelon HU, especially the 79x series? SonicElectronix has it for $229. Your thoughts on Kenwood in general? The Alpines don't really float my boat with all the buttons bunched up on the side.

epicenter....... when/why do people use them..... are they a waste of money??

Would like to know what you guys prefer and why. The HU seems to have more precise control and you can change the slope as well. If using the HU crossovers, should the amp be set to full?