Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

hello all, i have some questions regarding alt power. I currently have a 270a mechman, now my first question is do they have to be the same amprage, or can the other one be bigger or smaller? Second is do they have to be the same brand? Like can i use my stock 136a alt or a dc alt with mine or singer alt ? Would all that extra power mess with trucks electrical (05 dodge ram 4.7 ltr v8). If so, how would i be able to add another alt Have some voltage drop from 14.1 (when first starting truck) down to 12.1 at full tilt, running 2 crescendo bc3500s to 2 btls dual 2 ohms wired to 2 ohms and 1100.4, 3 runs of cca 0 ga positive and 3 negative to 5 interstate workoholic batter…

I had my front speakers running off of an old school Sony XM-2252HX, another one for the rear, and another for the subs...three in total. I decided to consolidate amps, and figured the Cadence F100-5 would be enough for my Image Dynamics CSX65CS components...christ was I wrong! Going from 225w down to 100w just isnt cutting it, my mid bass and highs are seriously suffering. I'm picking up a line driver tomorrow, as I have always needed one...I simply was able to crank up the gains more on the Sony's and get the desired outcome (factory headunit, spliced some rca's onto the line out). So, here is my question...I am desiring a 5-channel amp that is around 175-250rms on the …

How do you hook up the navigational system in a 2006 Lincoln navigator to an aftermarket radio.......or do I have to buy an adapter...""......'also can u use the factory DVD player with the aftermarket radio..

I have 2 american bass hd 15s an starting off with a crecendo 2000d till i get another one.i have 1 redtop opt i want to put under the hood an a yellowtop opt in the trunk.i want to no will i b ok with this bein thats its 2000watts or should i do more ?

I inserted my DD-1 disc into the KDC-X494 in my boat to set levels, and the CD won't eject. I press the eject button but it acts like I'm not pressing anything. Doesn't display eject or make any attempt to when I press it. It just ignores my pushing of the button. I tried pressing the reset button under the face, but no help. Any ideas? Is is a common Kenwood issue? How do I get my disc back!?

Ok I have a mechamn 220a alt... Gonna use 6 xs d3100s... Was planning on running 2 4/0 runs for alts positives and 2 4/0 runs for the alts negative....well after looking at it I dont know if it will work... I don't have much room on the alts posts... Or much room in the firewall...Would it hurt me just to do 1 run each of 4/0 for the alts neg and pos?

i'm looking to upgrade my dual flip screen for a normal good quantity HU. i can buy a pioneer deh-p6200bt used from a friend from the specs it looks good on paper, i have never owned a pioneer HU any thoughts or opinions before i buy it. thanks.

Hi fellas I have a question that will I'm sure be easy for you to answer. I have never ran bigger than 4 gauge wire, never upgraded the big 3, and never dealt with any of these following products. First the wire I will be ordering is http://www.wireandsupply.com/product_p/sgx-2-fslash-0-fslash-01.htm . The lugs I will be using are http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Electrical%20Supply/Tinned%20Copper%20Cable%20Lugs/00%20AWG%20Tinned%20Lug/?sck=12205831 . My question is what size ends should I get, they offer from 1/4 - 5/16 for the 2/0 gauge wire. I plan to use them on the 2/0 gauge upgrading the big 3, I plan to use them on my battery terminals, and I plan to use them…

I can either get the base bl 15. Or the ssd with cooling. Im planning on running a soundstream rub1600.1 what do you guys think?

Anyone familiar with DBelectrical when it comes to alternators? I've never heard of them and was curious as to their quality. I was looking at this alt http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9580-alternator-high-output-250-amp-38l-lumina-98-99-monte-carlo-99.aspx , then saw the price and got worried. Please any input would greatly help.

I plan on running this wire http://www.wireandsupply.com/product_p/sgx-2-fslash-0-fslash-01.htm , which size of these http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20Electrical%20Supply/Tinned%20Copper%20Cable%20Lugs/00%20AWG%20Tinned%20Lug/?sck=12205831 connectors should I buy to run with the wire? Also will a 0 gauge distribution block work with that 2/0 gauge wire, I have not been able to find a bigger block? I will be running 250amp fuses throughout the setup. One from alt to battery, one 12" from battery to distribution block? I only want the cap to be used on the sub amp and both outputs on the block are 250amp fused, do I need to run anymore fuses in the setup?

Looking towards buying a new amplifier for my Fi BTL N2 sometime this summer and looking at my options. I can obviously do as much research on my own as possible but numbers are just numbers, Id like to ask people who have experience with these amplifiers and your opinions on what I should get. I have around 4 different amplifiers that Im currently looking at, all around the same prices. Dont really want to spend over $700 and will buy used if need be. 1. Sundown SAZ-2500D (used) or SAZ-3500D (Refurbished) 2. DD M3a (new) 3. Orion 2500D (Found one locally used) 4. Crescendo BC3500D (new) Any input much appreciated and also FYI, Im running a stock battery upfront, big 3…

I will be running two batteries for the first time and have some questions. I have an energizer battery under the hood, and a yellow top for the truck. My question is will these two be ok ran together? I thought someone told me the batteries must be the same, but I could be mistaken. Thank you for the input.

Does this amp work at 4 ohms?... There is no rating i could find for it at 4 ohms and id need it at that if i get it untill igot a new sub. At 2 ohms it puts out 1100 rms so at 4 would it be like 550?

So as of now this is the best 5 channel amp I can find. By best I mean realiable and 1000+ rms for just the sub. I have not found one with higher rms then this one: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23827_Hifonics-Zeus-ZXi60.4-1K.html Help will be much appreciated. Thanks!

i plan on upgrading the battery under the hood with an agm but am worried about the arizona heat "killing" it. does anyone live in hot weather that has an agm bat in their car, and if it lasts as long as people say?

has any 1 ever used Lanzar's optidrive series amplifers? if so, what are the some helpful reviews on it. is it a good amp with low THD does this amp put out what its ratted? can you let me know if it is a overall good amp for subs will this thing get low and still stay warm?

I have decided to get 2 10 inch FI SSD subs for my Toyo Camry. Im looking for a cost effective amp to push them close to there rms. I see it is rated 1000w rms but if I can save a few bucks and only get about 600w-800w to each I'd be happy

hey, i have 2 12" sundown SA'12's soon to be 4 or 6 in total. they are all dual 2 ohm subs, i wanted to know if any 1 has any suggestions for a amp that will give at least 2000-2500 RMS @ .5 ohms or 2 ohms and no more than $400 plus shipping. let me know if you have something your selling under these terms and or let me know if you know any amps that are able of doing the job for my system. thanks

I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue and am getting ready to purchase the things that I am still missing in my setup. My main concern is my Audiobahn 2300hct powering my 2 12" JL W7's at 1ohm. I have a yellow top for the trunk and a capacitor as well, here is where I'm lost as I've never used an extra battery or a cap before. The AB has 4x40 fuses, and I also plan to buy a 4 channel amp that does 75x4 rms {not sure on model yet}. My first question is how many fuses should I run throughout setup? Currently I have a 200amp ANL fuse, should I run this 18" from the battery {front duralast, or trunk yellow top}, or should I run a 200amp ANL at each battery? I Also plan on purchasi…

Can a Rockford fosgate t2500-1bd run at 0.5 ohms with every day use

Where can I buy bulk hardware. Wire connecters fuses etc

i have two 10" pioneer TS-W251R subwoofers in a vented box in my car and right now this kid i know gave me a prehistoric amp for me to use while i look for a new one. (im not even going to say what the old one is... its a joke and doesnt nearly cut it, ill leave it at that) so right now im in the market for a good durable amp that is not going to cost me an arm and a leg cause lets face it, im on a tight budget. so what i do know is the standard stats for my subs they have a norm of 120w and a 600w peak output and they are 4 ohms. what should i be looking at? would something like the Kicker 11DX250.1 be an appropriate option? or should i be looking at a two channel amp in…

Yo guyz I have a budget of about 200$ I need a good head unit with high and low pass crossovers for running active. Ive been checking out the ken wood kdc-x996. It's just a hair out of my budget but seems nice. Any other good units like this?

I was just wondering if this is possible, or even worth it? I have never seen any manufacture attempt this, but I believe that it would improve the quality of the sound as well as be cost effective in the aspect of less material/weight/mass that three sets of RCAs use. I'm not sure if anybody will be able to answer this question, but I was just wondering what is the reason for manufactures pursuing this route. Any opinions are welcomed.