Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I Have a 2000 bmw 5 series. Here is the setup: 1 15 BTL n2 fully loaded powered by a hifonics 2000.1 All under hood elecrical will be done with 0 awg ROCKFORD FOSGATE WIRING. Stock alt. (I believe it is 160amp) Either the stock batt or kinnetik batt upgrade will be used Do you guys think that the cars electrical will be able to handle it? gain will not be set to max.. I jus wanna be able to make car alarms go off with the BTL hhahaha Thank you for your time

I want some people's opinion on this so i get a better understanding... So, i have 2 amps(u guys know the ones, hehe) that i need to hook up soon taking for granted they work. Now, this is how i have it, but was told to change it so they both are wired the same but have a question so here it goes. One amp is grounded through the battery bank. The other amp is grounded to the chassis. Why? Because the other amp's ground length was a LOT shorter going directly to chassis. I have always heard do not use no more than 1 meter length of ground... Why? If i use 2/0 power and ground, how far can that cable be ran using ground before a problem(what problem) arises? They told me…

I am currently on my third high output alternator in this car. Both my yellow top under the hood and xp3000 in the trunk have been tested for bad cells etc. they are each fine. There is no indication of belt slip occurring whatsoever not even silent. Big three upgrade is in place. The alt charges perfectly fine for a week or so then just stops putting out amperage as if its a regulator gone bad or rectifier bridge that's somehow over worked itself. Besides mounting it there is a run of positive to the battery from the charging stud and a one-wire charge lead that I splice into a 12v connection for the regulator to operate off of so I don't understand where the issue is co…

To fill you in...I'm stationed in Japan and have a 1996 Honda Orthia wagon (equivalent to a Civic or CRX). The battery is very small! My alternator is factory. I've done the Big 3. I have a Panasonic CQDFX85 head unit, (2) RE Audio 6.5 two-way speakers powered by a US Amps USA-50 and a 10" MB Quart DWE-254 sub powered by a US Amps USA-100. My lights don't dim when listening to music. They start to dim when I'm sitting at a light and I click my window button up. I'm going to replace my MB Quart with a RE Audio 10" SE10D2 and use a US Amps USA-150X to power it. I know this will probably cause my lights to dim alot! I've had a US Amps Optimizer sitting in my closet for 6 yrs…

Well after much researching and debating, I ended up buying this headunit, and dont let the name brand fool you. From the information I gathered, this headunit is a beast and also a sleeper, has a crap load of features and rumored to have active capabilities. So I ordered it from Soniceletronix for $199 shipped, and it included the iPod adapter, installation accessories and free shipping. It has been out since the end of 06, and retail was $600!!!!! So on to the pics, plan on installing it this weekend, and I will do a full review and a video review And I had all Pioneers in the past, from the 580MP, to the 880PRS, and lastly the 780MP. So i know what to look for …

Need help i purchased a sundown scv 4000D amplifier and need to hook it up to two dc xl m2 d1 sub woofers? How do i wire them? Help!!!

Looking at the KDC-X792, looks like its got all the right features. 3x4v preouts, USB/iPod connection, aux connection, 2nd aux option, PAC wire, attenuator, 24 bit DAC, and the oh-so-handy Attenuator aka "Oh s... a cop" button. I like how it looks, and it sounds like I could integrate it well into my future car, with the USB jack replacing the stock iPod connector, and rewiring the stock 3.5mm AUX input to go to the HU. Anyone have any experience with the Excelon HU, especially the 79x series? SonicElectronix has it for $229. Your thoughts on Kenwood in general? The Alpines don't really float my boat with all the buttons bunched up on the side.

im running a pioneer AVP3100 dvd and my question is im trying to hook up a toggle switch to the picture wire the from the HU ( supposed to be hooked up to the E brake) so i can see dvds while trying on trips and i hooked it up to toggle switch+ and ground the other side to chassis but it wont work... and it worked when it was in my other car 3 weeks ago. its not the same toggle switch that i had before. its a little smaller but still the regular old easy toggle switchon/off switch , + / - wire leads)... anybody know why it wouldnt work?? could it be the toggle switch?? or would anybody else know how to wire that up so it will play dvds? thatnks in advance

I've been searching and not finding exactly what I wanted.... Im trying to figure out how to find a good ground in my car for my rear batts and I know people use DMM's to test spots but I wasn't sure how? like which setting on the dmm and what do you touch the probes to?.. I dont understand rofl. I tried a bunch of different things but wasn't really sure what I was doing.

im using a crappy boss flip out head unit. and my system getting to loud to where it is shutting my head unit off until i hit the power button on. any suggestions on what is the best head unit to get?

I've always ran 1/0 power and grounds on my systems.. 2 situations I've ran into.. 1. My dad is ALWAYS telling me I should run 4awg wire, thinks 1/0 is way too much. Almost as if its bad to run a wire that size.. my system isn't huge just a sundown1500 another ~600 rms highs amp with a ho alt...is that just an old school way of thinking? 2. I recently bought a bunch of 1/0 CCA knukonceptz wire and I think I'd rather go with some OFC instead. Friend of mine has recently bought a audiopipe 1500 from me and has no wire. Stock everything..I want to sell him all this CCA wire I have to buy what I really want.. my original thinking is it should work fine (after adapting to 4 GA…

a lot of people i have talked to on forums say to stay away from optima yellow tops, why?

I recently purchased a new tow vehicle and I'd like to put some variation of sound in it. It has a double din dash so I figure I'd go with a double din head unit. I'm really not sure exactly what options I want besides 3 sets 4v preouts, USB and most likely blue tooth, I'd like to spend under $300 if possible but I'm not completely against spending more. Pretty vague I know, just looking for people's experience and what not.

Ok im gona buy a new amp and every time i go online reserching i find this amp's like the "Lanzar MAXP2960" real cheap under $200. WHy is this? are these amps way under power, and if so about how many rms watts is it;. Lanzar MAXP2960 Lanzar MXA254 Boss PH2.1500 Lanzar VBP281 Lanzar VBP261 Power Acoustik BAMF-2600/2 (BAMF2600/2) Lanzar MXA282 SPL FX2-2600 Autotek AT2000.1 Are any Good i was thinking about buying one HELP PLZ

so i was on my way home from my local audio shop and boom. my amp stopped playing and started blowing smoke. i only had my stero on 25 out of 60.it was a mtx 1501d elite. so before i even got to my driveway, i turned around and went right back to the audio shop. befor i even opened the door, he started laughing because he knew what happened. haha he told me come back in 3 days with $75 and itll be as good as new. just thought id share my story with yall **R.I.P. mtx 1501d elite series**

I need a new 2 channel to drive some 6.5"s in the doors. I need something on the small side and not looking to spend a lot. Mind you I don't want some Walmart brand $30 specials either. Anyway, back in the day I had a Soundstream Lil' Wonder amp. Loved that thing to death. I know several of the bigger companies back when I got into car audio (late 80's ish) have really gone downhill in terms of build and quality. I came across a Rubicon 2.250 that will fit the space requirements and the power I need. Not familar with anything they have made in the past few years. Are they still pretty decent? Not looking to compete or anything like that. Just looking for something …

are there any plans to bring back another 8v deck? if not I want to hold onto my 8053

Whats up everyone, alright so i came across this voltage meter on amazon today and was wondering what you guys think of it. Its a ciggarette lighter voltage gauge. Do you think it would be accurate? If not how off do you think it is and why? i know the cig lighter is hooked straight up to the battery and its a 12v lighter but will this volt meter be accurate at all? here it is http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1307664465&sr=8-3

Ok guys i might be opening a can of worms here but i dont understand why people do this to set their gain and think its right. to me, it doesnt make sense and i will explain why. a lot of times i see this chart here and people say set it for xxx voltage and you are set. ignore step 4 since without having a load on the amp is kinda pointless. if that chart is right, then i am putting 1300 watts to my sub, but with a clamp, DMM, and thanks to ohms law, i found out i am putting ~800 to my sub. i am not saying that chart is mathematically wrong, just cant be used the way its intended. so whats the deal? i dont understand why you would use that chart (or any formula equivale…

i've seen the outside, but never the inside looks like something out of a science fiction movie

I recently acquired a 15 inch MTX Terminator, all I need is wiring and an amplifier but I don't know how strong of an amplifier I need because of how old the sub is. Can anyone help me out? I really don't know much about sub/amp combinations. A picture of it http://imgur.com/a/qeulw

Im lookin for a good 3000w rms amp. I found a Alphasonik PMA1000HCA and I dont know much about them. But the Crunch Iv read some Good things about it. Who makes Alphasonik is it a division of Audiobahn??...I think I read that some where. Any way Thanks for any help Im open for any suggestions in the 500$$ range Thanks

im lookin at these models: ddx7019 ddx8019 kvt-719 kvt-819 Was wondering if anyone has any experience with any of those units?

is this amp realllllly under rated or sumthing 1.5k at 1ohm...for a 4k D? this isn't just for flakko lol anyone else can chime in it was just bothering me why its marked 4000d and its power is 1.5k

I'm looking to replace my stock alt. But I'm in a small budget can any one give me their inputs regarding these alt? And maybe a ball park guess on how much it would be to replace my stock 140A alt I have a 2000 Acura integra ls.