Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

im lookin at these models: ddx7019 ddx8019 kvt-719 kvt-819 Was wondering if anyone has any experience with any of those units?

I am doing some minor repairs to a Kicker ZR-1000 that I picked up cheap. Does anybody know if it is possible to jump across the docking port and run it full range just to check it out or is there some sort of circut on those modules necessary for for the amp to operate? It seems simple enough, but I'm guessing this may not be possible. I know the owners manual says not to even power it up without a module.

Anyone have any opinion on this deck? I'm just about to buy it.. I used to have a DEHP-6000 and loved it.. I wouldn't buy any other decks except pioneer, they are just nice peices of equipment IMO. I have a computer in my car for stereo mostly, but I've decided to get the head unit again beacuse I want a volume KNOB as well as eq options, the option to use a CD, and my FM radio back. I could have all of this with the computer, but a deck looks cleaner. I'm still going to keep the computer though, and use the head unit's AUX to plug it in. I wouldn't take it out for anything. I have over 3000 songs and it's great to no flip through a book of CD's everytime I get in the car…

Here is the situation, amp is irrelevant, here is the scene- Stock alternator, car on, over 14v at idle, starting battery up front, XS D3100 batt in the back(reads 13.0 float), so i gots plenty of battery power for this amp which requires a 200A fuse. I start to oscope the amp on a 48hz tone set to repeat. Every now and then, there would be a "THUD" sound that would quickly come from the amp. Unknown as to why but we continue to scope anyway. I do not know if it's relevant or not. Anyways, subsonic set to off, LPF set all the way up, bass boost OFF, phase 0, gain - all the way DOWN. All settings on HU were flat, sub preout set to 15, Kenwood HU. Volume goes to 35. I sta…

hi, i am looking for a budget 4 channel amp that can do atleast 200rms at @ 2 ohm for a freind and he doesn't want to spend more then 350 on the amp. and i was looking at a Soundstream TRA960.4 for him and i am wondering if anybody has any experiace with them. and another option is a cadence TXA-6004 forgot to mention it will be running a active gront stage with it and the processor is alpine 9887

I'm nearing the finish line in an installation that includes a new HU with FT/RT, FR/LT RR/RT RR/LT, and a SUB output, plus an unmarked, unidentified in the manual, RCA output on the back of the HU next to the SUB output. I have a 5 channel amp that has Channels 1(white), 2(red), 3(white) and 4(red) marked clearly on the amp, plus a SUB RT(white) and SUB LFT(red) input, all input by RCA. The same amp has 4 sets of output terminals, 1 each for + & -. It also has 2 terminals for the sub (+ & -), which connects to the sub on R &L posts. So, first question: How do I run a cable from the HU, which is 1 RCA connection, to the AMP, which has both LT and RT RC…

is this amp realllllly under rated or sumthing 1.5k at 1ohm...for a 4k D? this isn't just for flakko lol anyone else can chime in it was just bothering me why its marked 4000d and its power is 1.5k

Ok so I've been noticing over the past few days that when my amp is like 30 degrees or les it clips when at half volume. It'll clip like that until the amp has about 5 min of playing then I can't get it to clip? So I think I have a temp sensitive amp. It's a bc2000d made by crescendo. Does anybody elses amps clip when cold?

it will be my first time buying a high output alternator what else would i need other than a deepcycle battery and voltmeter thank you

I just had to replace my highs amp (jl audio 360/4) due to a malfunction. I was getting "engine" noise that came and went and also was present with car not running??! So I purchased an RF P400x4 to match my sub amps (t1500bdcp). I am happy with the amp, its the new model so it has input clipping and output clipping indicators, and a fancy set up disc with all tones and sweeps necessary (0db and -5db). So far very pleased. Also just fyi my pioneer p4400bh DOES NOT CLIP even at full volume. But that being said I had to go almost 3/4 on gains to get the required output without clipping of course. Also my sub amps are up quite high. So, long story short, I am getting very int…

Hooking my brother up with my 15" Fi Q (basic) and its being powered by a RD 1000.1D doing 1000 at 1 ohm. Looking to get an amp kit for him and I can't remember whether or not to use 4 gauge power wire or higher? Also, the amp has 30Ax3 fuses for a total of 90 amps so I'm assuming I need a 90 amp fuse for the power cable? Reason I'm asking is because the knukonceptz kit I was looking at comes with a 120 amp fuse. Just a few simple questions.

I recently came up on a SAE1200d for $125 and after using for a week or so it popped something and it wouldnt work. I took it to a local shop and they said it was the power supply cuz I wasnt giving it enough power so I did the big 3 and im running a 15 fi q at 2ohm. The other day I get it back and have it banging for about 3 days then after work on monday I turn it up and it turns off and it doesnt turn back on. When I get home I check all the fuses and they are good and I turn the car back on and something pops again and smoke comes out and its fried again. Now my question. What could be the culprit?

Well, I've been looking for a ho alt for my brother's Caliber and so far, the only company that has said they can/will build one is Excessive Amperage. I was wondering if anyone here had any experience at all with them. Nathan said he would build me a 200a unit that will do approx. 130 at idle. He also said that the alt is controlled by the car's computer and suggested I also purchase an adjustable external regulator from him for another $135. I'm not sure I need the regulator as we don't ever plan on running at higher voltage. Any input is very appreciated.

Ok so power master dont do a alt for my model of car, but im still intrested. so how hard and complicated is it to make a custom brcket. what are the ristks and chances of things going wrong? and guestimate price i should be paying for it. thx in advanse

i've seen the outside, but never the inside looks like something out of a science fiction movie

Hi all, I will be using the Alpine Imprint Module with my Alpine iDA-x305S. My Question is, will I have to use the disc and mic tuning kit (KTX-H100) for tuning or when I plug the unit in; will it unlock all the tuning features of the imprint and I can tune it manually? because that's what I would prefer.. thanks.

I have the option of using either amps for my components (Rainbow) and rear fill (JBL mids): Alpine MRV-F302 V12, 4x50 @ 4 ohm @ 14.4 Planet Audio P450, 4 x 50 @ ohm Anyone have exp with these or similar amps from the Alpine and PA lines? Which one will get me better SQ? Advice appreciated. Thanks!

I Have a 2000 bmw 5 series. Here is the setup: 1 15 BTL n2 fully loaded powered by a hifonics 2000.1 All under hood elecrical will be done with 0 awg ROCKFORD FOSGATE WIRING. Stock alt. (I believe it is 160amp) Either the stock batt or kinnetik batt upgrade will be used Do you guys think that the cars electrical will be able to handle it? gain will not be set to max.. I jus wanna be able to make car alarms go off with the BTL hhahaha Thank you for your time

Which is a better battery: Powermaster d3100 or the kinetik 2400?

doing some rewiring my subs and remember seeing on a bunch of builds that people use nuts and bolts so they can wire up and wire down through their box (wire from sub +s and -s to bolt going through wood and then from the out side of box wiring from bolt to amp) So my question is what kind of metel should the nuts and bolts be... i have nuts and bolts made from zinc, would those be ok to use or should i use somthing different like brass or iron ???????? ------- Wiring down to .5 ohms for spl and up to 2 ohms for street beat Thank you guys for any and all help

I've always ran 1/0 power and grounds on my systems.. 2 situations I've ran into.. 1. My dad is ALWAYS telling me I should run 4awg wire, thinks 1/0 is way too much. Almost as if its bad to run a wire that size.. my system isn't huge just a sundown1500 another ~600 rms highs amp with a ho alt...is that just an old school way of thinking? 2. I recently bought a bunch of 1/0 CCA knukonceptz wire and I think I'd rather go with some OFC instead. Friend of mine has recently bought a audiopipe 1500 from me and has no wire. Stock everything..I want to sell him all this CCA wire I have to buy what I really want.. my original thinking is it should work fine (after adapting to 4 GA…

So i won't be in town for a couple of weeks and my bro will be driving my car... Him being in HS i know he will try to impress his friends, I specifically told him not to go above 30/35 on the H/U..... didn't tell him about the gain b/c i know he will try to turn it up if I told him I turned it down for hiim... To protect my sub I turned the sub amp gain all the way down today, but can still get some bass at full tilt, where is this power coming from? H/U? I thought turning the gain all the way down will= no power? also is it okay to keep the gain all the way down and play at full tilt? no clipping issues right? I understand the amp wont be clipping but what about the…

I'm looking to replace my stock alt. But I'm in a small budget can any one give me their inputs regarding these alt? And maybe a ball park guess on how much it would be to replace my stock 140A alt I have a 2000 Acura integra ls.

Oh my, what is the world coming to... http://www.edesignaudio.com/wire_cat.php?catid=48