Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Can some one steer me in a good direction for sound quality tweeters not super tweeters that sound like poop but are really loud. thanks to anyone who can help!

My amplifier randomly went into protect last night after i started the car, everything is hoked up right. This morning i unplugged the sub and it was still in protect, so i know it isnt the subwoofer. Then i unplugged the RCAS and it was still in protect. Then i redid the remote wire and restarted my HeadUnit and was still in protect......The Amplifier is a Hifonics BRZ 1700.1, They dont come fused and i did not have a fuse on it. Im also running it at 0.5 ohm. Im thinking its blown but im not sure. BTW it can handle 0.5 ohm no problem.....

Will these really replace a battery?

Well I once again thought an update was in order. A few interesting developments. Recently won an amplifier naming contest for **Zed Audio**. I named the new 6 channel amplifier 'LEVIATHAN' This contest awards me $100USD towards a Zed Audio Amplifier, and another 'free amplifier of Stephen's choice (from other manufacturing at the Zed Audio factory). I don't know what the free amp will be, but I trust Stephen will make it intersting. The $100 credit towards a 'Zed Audio Amp' Will go towards my purchase of the Leviathan when they are built. The Leviathan is still in the design stage now. Recently I got a great deal on an **OmniFi System** that comes with the car and h…

How much battery would you guys recommend for park n play? I'll have about 2k to the lows, and would like to be able to go to a car show in my hometown and show all the highschoolers how it's done. I'm drooling over this, i've been waiting to do a build of my own for so long, and daydreaming conveniently leaves out all the requirements that need to be satisfied before the fun part. I'd like to be able to play the subs with the car off, not for ridiculously long, an hour would be the longest I could see happening; I was thinking instead of two marines from walmart, i'd do a D3100 or a D7500. I'm pretty sure the 7500 is bigger than i'll -ever- need but I mean, it's kind…

Hey guys, I bought a jeep wrangler and the previous owner added in a new HU but decided to be cheap and hack the wires together rather than buy a harness. Every time I shut the jeep off, the radio shuts off, then deletes all the pre sets. I bought a new HU, hooked the wires up, and the same thing happens. Shut off the jeep, bam the HU resets and goes through the initial set stage. What is causing this? Bad ground? I'm stumped.

so im in class right now, and i cant focus cuz im so pissed off. all i have is a brutus 2608 on a Fi BL. running @ 2 ohms (rated 1700 rms). so heres what happened. im on my way to class, which is about a 20 minute drive. the music was on the whole time. probably going half tilt for the 1st half, then going hard for the last 10 mins. i have never encountered any problems with the amp in the past, so im very conused why it decided to shit out. im running a stock alt and battery, which i know is not enough for this amp, but thats what it is. i never properly set my gain, ive always just turned it down when i saw voltage drop or heard any clipping. back to the story, …

What are the pro's and cons of Korean built amps compared to Brazilian and Chinese. And for daily spl builds which is better.

Just placed my order for the 330 max 200+ at idle alternator that Mike Singer makes. Has anybody tried these out before? I'll be sure to post up a review when it comes in!

Just sold my kicker 10's and 3k amp, and am looking to go to 6 bigger tens. I will be running either the Q's or BL's from fi, or still possibly some sundown tens. I will be running at 2/3 ohm nominal, and have narrowed my amp choices down to either the Sundown NS1, or the Stetsom 7ke. I used to be a part of Team Sundown so I know what the amps are capable of, and I know I will get every bit of 7k out of it, but what about the stetsom? how does it stack up? I already read a thread in their section about the single power/ground, so not too concerned about that. This will be a musical setup for bassrace and bass boxing, so not just talking burps here. I already have the …

i am trying to decide whether to purchase a Rockford t1500-1bdCP or an AudioQue AQ2200.1D amplifier. for me the rockford would be $130 more, and i was just wondering if that is worth it or if i should stick with the AudioQue and have more power. and how much difference does the constant power technology make in the Rockford? a comparison of the two amps would be nice.

I read the sticky but I wanted to make sure I was correct, I have a alpine type r 10" dual 2 ohm sub and a kenwood KAC-9104D amp which is 500 watts rms @ 4 ohms. So is it; Voltage = sqrt(500 watts x 4 ohms) ?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?sk...d=1198888991131 Does anyone know something about this amp ?

i added a yellow top in the rear today and did the big three. i wired the second batt in parallel + to + and - to - then ran my power to the amp off the rear positive. after i hooked everything up i noticed the the red batt light on the dash below the check engine like was glowing red and the emergency brake light stays on even when its off and these didn't do it before i installed everything... and on top of that my power steering when out (i know it doesnt have anything to do with the batts but just wanted to add that too...lol) any suggestions why the light would still be on?? Oh and my check engine light is on too but that was already on before i installed everyt…

i was really close to ordering a Pioneer AVIC-D3 for the Mini. well, its 700 shipped, 6.1" screen, navi, etc. for a couple hundred more, why not get a carPC? so im doing just that. i ordered the 10.4" samsung VGA touchscreen. i need to figure out the PC thing now. im mostly concerned with the audio output. im going to keep my Head unit, and run audio out from the PC, to red/white aux in on the nakamichi HU. then sub/front/rear outs from the HU, to the EQ, then to the crossover, then to the amps. my question is, if the audio out on the PC is a standard 3.5mm jack, would is sound bad if i ran 3.5mm out from pc, to red/white aux in on HU? (i ran my ipod this way for a while,…

ok guys one my home from work my friends subs im using Kenwoods 12" 400 rms each stop working as soon as i get ready to pull in. i look under my hood and my power wire fuse holder looks like it blew up.... kinda in half.... ( I was only using these subs for a week until i get my FI SSD 15 today or tomorrow.) Any ideas why this happened? i had a spare KIcker 4 awg wire so i wasnt to mad lol.

I've been looking into buying a new sub amp for my car. I am in a slow building process as of now I have done the big 3 with 1/0 ofc from xs power and I ordered more wiring to run to the trunk. I am almost done building my amp rack and now I'm trying to decide on what amp to get. I have it done to 3 that I had in mind that run the same power and are supposedly reliable. The 3 that I had in mind are the IA 10.1 or the Sundown SAZ 1200 or the DC 1.2K. The sub I will be ordering is a FI SSD fully loaded. I listen mostly to rap and salsa as far as my music preference goes. I am open to other suggestions as well but I want to hear what people have to say about them as far powe…

All features taking into consiteration, which brand do you stick by? I like Eclipse.

Is there any good budget batteries.xs is more than I can bare at the moment.about to order a 250a alt from singer an possibly a 2nd bc2000 if I can find used.what would y'all recommend?

Hey guys, I posted this on 180db.com but have yet to get any responses. I just purchased a new Kinetik HC1800 and when I installed it my car was idling so rough that I was scared to continue with it. Let me explain the install first cuz it might have something to do with it. Had an Optima Redtop that was okay but I kept getting the dimming when pumping the tunes. I then bought a 1.2Farad RF capacitor and it was a little better but not by much. So instead of experimenting with upgrading wires yet I decided to purchase the HC1800. Well, cables were too short to reach the battery connectors even when turned 180 to be a little closer. So I went to the hardware store and purch…

so... i'm sitting in my house for hours, its getting late so i open my garage and too pull my truck in and i notice my amp was still on.. but there was no key in the ignition or anything.. so i'm like what the fuck? i pop my key in and click it over.. head unit doesn't turn on but my amp is still on.. so i pop my hood and unhook my neg on my batt, amp stays on, unhook the pos, amp goes off. Why did this happen?

Does anyone know a good place online to buy 4/0 guage wire from?

Unfortunately, the sundown 3000w install was whack because the head unit's preouts were going crazy so the amp couldnt be turned up high enough for an accurate comparison. I will post spec of the amp anyway but shouldnt be compared 100% accurately because the volume level wasn't the same as the other 2. Sundown 3000d- Voltage - 11.8v Current Pull - 122A Wattage pull - 1440w Voltage Out - 18.6v Current Out - 64.6A Wattage Out - 1202w Actual Resistance - 3.47 Ohms Efficiency - 83.5% (Test not fair) Powerbass 3000D- Voltage - 12.15v Current Pull - 119A Wattage Pull - 1446w Voltage Out - 62v Current Out - 19.7A Wattage Out - 1221w Actual Resistance - 3.15 Ohms Efficiency - 84…

Anyone had any experience with these amps? Im looking for sq amps but it must be able to fit under the seat of my 07 frontier. This amp seems to fit the bill pretty well as far as size and with the class g/h design should be pretty clean sounding. It will be bridged to a pair of HAT CLARUS 6.5 components. Passive for now.

http://caraudiomag.com/articles/copper-wire-vs-copper-clad-aluminum-wire-wire-warnings