Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

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i have heard a lot of bad things about capacitors. and i know you may know more about them then i do can you help me out?

Alrighty, 2001 honda civic sedan ES1. Singer 320 Amp alternator. Came with a black bracket for the bottom and a spacer for the top. Was suggested to get a smaller belt by other people but it won't even go on with the factory size belt. Bottom brackets do not line up at all. Don't really know what to do. Pics Alt with black bottom mounting bracket Alt mounted on top with belt on. Where the black bracket provided does not come close to fitting with the factory adjustable bracket.

I just aquired a DieHard platinum group 35 battery. I also have a kinetic hc600. Would they be safe to run in parallel together?

I need an amplifier to power my D1 12" Xcon. It was running off of my Rf T-1000bd at around ~750 watts and it sounded absolutely eargasmic... and then I shorted my amplifier. So now I have two choices: Fix the T1000 for $175 and stay at ~750 watt or buy something along the lines of this http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/hifonicsbrz17001d.aspx It may seem obvious to go with the Hifonics because of the obvious difference in power, but it seems like Hifonics isn't the most recommended brand. 1200w @ 2 ohm for $190 just seems to good to be true. What would you recommend I do? If you have any other amplifier suggestions then feel free to throw them out there. I rea…

Tested voltage drop with most accessories off last night. At idle the car rests at 13.9x, With a variety of music and an Iasca test disc, at the loudest volume i can play the factory stereo at while still sounding decent, the lowest i got it to drop was 12.69, it was mostly between 12.7xx and 12.9 on HARD hits. Electrical system is stock, battery, alt, etc, all stock, no cap/ 2nd battery, extra 0wag ground under hood to battery, extra 4awg ground running to rear of the car where it joins the 1/0 that goes into my amp. Amp is an MTX 81000d running @ 2ohms, Rated 1krms @ 12.5 volts, most people get between 12xx and 14xx on their birth sheets at that voltage. I was just surp…

I noticed Down 4 Sound shop just came out with their own LTO battery. D4S 6 LTO. For 2 of those batteries, it would be rated 6k-10k watts. How would that compare to a 80ah Yinlong LTO bank? Thanks

so my friend is wanting to get a batcap becuase he heard it will help out his electrical ALOT. what do yall think about it? ever had one, used one.. etc

Ok so I'm staring to piece together and figure out what I need for my electrical pieces.. I will have a second battery in the rear. running two amps. Sub amp -T1500-1bdCP Front Stage amp is undecided at the moment. I have 1/0 Gauge OFC running to the back. probably ~15ft run. My plan is. Battery up front + (in line fuse)>>>>> (inline fuse) Battery Rear Positive + Ground up front will be left alone. Ground in the rear will be placed in the factory installed Ground fused to the body in the trunk. For the amps.... Running from rear battery ----- Short zero gauge OFC to a fused distribution block >>>>From the fused …

I currently have an mb quart dsc 4125 for 2 peerless sls 8's(does 500 x 2 bridged) sundown 100.4(tang bang mids & alpine tweets) and a sundown 3000 for 2 xcon's. I was doing some measurements in the trunk of my acura tl while laying down deadening and there's no way to fit those 3 amps, 4 cube box, and a big battery so i need smaller footprint amps. what i need is 1 4 channel that can do 300+ bridged @ 4 ohms(pdx is an option, though i'd like something smaller) 1 4 channel that can do 100-125 x 4 @ 4 ohms(may pick up an arc audio mini) 1 mono amp that can do 3000-3300 @ 1 ohm

I've had bought a WMD18 from Pierce audio and my ed nine.1 amp clipped and kill my sub within 15 minutes , i'm pissed THE fucked off. I'm fed up with eDs Bull shit i need a real amp. What do yahh suggest ? i'm interested in Sundown but the price is outta reached. So whats up with AudieQue products? Should i give it a try or keep on lookin around.

Hey guys, I'm buying an Alpine IVA-D310 and I'm hoping to get a nice 3-way active setup going. I found the h/u for a good price lightly used, not really willing to spend the 500+ I have on past h/u's. a I was trying to find an Alpine PXA-H701 but I can't find one so maybe someone could suggest a comparable eq that could be controlled with the touch screen? Also I just want to make sure this is a good unit for my situation. As far as the 3-way active setup, I have an older eclipse ea4000, but I'm willing to sell to get another 4 channel and a 2 channel, or just add another 2 channel. I do want the amps to match though so suggestions would be great. I'm on a budget at the m…

i've had my sae 1200d for 5months now. Yesterday when i was bumpin it a fuse blew. I replaced the blown fuse and everything was working fine. Today when i was listening to it at low volume, well my volume goes up to 30 and i put it at 23-24, so anyway i played it at 15 and nothing happened. When i put my bass to +3 its usually on -3 the fuse blew again. How can i fiz this issue?? If this is a voltage problem im going to get an xs battery soon, money is tight right now so i had to choose between some second skin or the battery. And so i bought 20sqft of damplifier and it sounds GREAT, MAJOR difference, it cleared up the sound and theres no more rattle. But anyway what shou…

So looking for some info about amplifier and efficiency. I have a xcon dual 1ohm 10" so i can run at either .5ohm or 2ohm What i would like to know is 1500w @ .5ohm or 1500w @ 2ohm the 2ohm amplifier would be drawing more power to make its wattage because of the higher resistance correct ?

Starting yesterday my sub will play and then stop. I'm running 1 psi 15 inch platform 2 sub wired to 4 ohms on a hifonics zeus 3200 watt amp. The hifonics light on amp will still be illuminated but the light on the bass knob will fade until it's off completely. When I restart the car the sub sometimes will play and other times Not. All wires are secure. Any ideas?

Anyone have the dimensions?

well i was just taking the photo's off of my phone tonight and found these that i had in there. if anyone cares here they are BAMF 5500

Hi I'd like some advices to choose a 4ch amp with a budget of 450$ max. Please feel free to make some suggestions. For information, it will be connected to a Focal 165 KRX3. Any feedback on those ? Xetec Prestige Evo P4 ARC Audio FD 4150 ZED Audio Draconia III - 4 Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 V2 Gladen XL-150c4 Precision Power PC640.4 Mosconi One 120.4 Audison Vrx 4.300 Thanks

I have a Ford, and there's this feature that doesn't shut the radio off until the doors open. Also, I will be going to school this month, and campus is small enough that I won't be driving the car unless I'm heading to the mall of back home. From what I've read, an isolator seems necessary in my case (D3400 and XP950), but I'm not sure if the diode-style will be practical, and if it's safe to have an isolator rated for higher amps than the system draws.

Anyone have experience with that amp? Thinking about running 4 skar 6.5 midbass off this amp 1 in each door?

Ive been looking at some car audio companies that make very good quality gear. Ive noticed that the majority of them have caps for sale. Now, you think from reading all this stuff about them, they are bad ect ect that these high end companies wouldnt sell them. But there must be a reason. Just about every amp out there is filled with them. So why not add another ? Is a 1 farad cap better than 2 0.5 farad caps ? What about cap banks, 30, 40 farads ? Im, not about to go out and buy one I didnt bother posting this on ca.com because i know everyone will say caps are junk blah blah blah. Ive read that they can be helpful if your electrical system is up to par ( mine is )

Okay guys, I'm in a bit of a pickle here. I will be buying an 18" BTL any day now, I'm going to run it with a Sundown SAZ3000.1, at 2 ohms for daily driving and 1 ohm for comps and such, I will back it up with a Kinetik HC1400, and 2 HC1800's, I will also do my Big 3 in 1/0 gauge, my problem is my alternator, it is a stock 90A, I took it in to a shop today to see if they could rewind it and get more juice out of it and they said they couldn't do anything for it, but I talked to Nathan Pedicord from Excessive Amperage about a 225A that would fit. Why am I unable to get it rewound or built up? Do I even need it? Or will the Kinetiks be fine. Any input would be great, thank…

should i trade my eclipse cd7200 mk ii for the alpine cda 117. what do you guys think? far as sq which one is better. and i know eclipse is out of business. thanks

the current radio is a cassette deck, and the cassette deck doesnt even work. im stuck with listening to the same crap over and over and over again. the reception also sucks balls, and i think that's why my right speakers sound like they are distorting. I heard the exact same stock system speakers i have in a buddies car and it sounded GOOD. im gonna try to reproduce what i heard if i can't ill go all out active aftermarket. these stock speakers have mucho potential. you might ask why i got the 9887 if i aint going active. I dont like the look of the 9886 and i like to keep my options open. once my crutchfield order comes in on the 5th with the ipod cable and din r…

So this is just some crappy system that I bought from my friend cuz he needed money. Its a Sony Xplod GTR2022 amp with 2 Kenwood 12s. After using it in my car for a few weeks the amp decides to go into protect mode. So I turned off my car and took a look at the amp and it looks like my ground wire fell out of the amp when I was driving. So i connect the ground back up and make sure everything is all hooked up right and started driving again. Here is where the problem is, the amp and subs are fine until I turn the volume up to 14 then the amp goes into protect mode and the subs of course cut out. Now I usually had the volume up to about 36 on the regular. Since its Arizon…