Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Firs off, IF YOUR GOING TO JUST TELL ME IDK WHAT IM DOING, THEN JUST LEAVE. I DO NOT WANT TO HEAR IT. IM LEARNING. (and you know who you are) ok. so as most of u have seen in my other thread, i have just added a seconed battery. only problem is that after playing for 3 or 4 mins, my volt meter and stuff goes back to the way it was befor. goes crazy when bass hits. So im going to do the big 3. i got to looking at my alternator yesterday and my wire going from my alternator goes to my fuse box. not to my battery. so what do i do? should i still updrade it, or just leave it and do the rest? any HELP is appreciated guys. Thanks

Sorry for sound like a retatard but what is Big 3?

What is this Big 3 upgrade i keep hearing about? Thanks

As the title says. Hmm, Anyone know anything on this Sony?

Greetings Folks, I was in to mobile audio around year 2000. Back then the Big Box Brands like you found at Best Buy were OK but the high end companies had a significant boost in performance. Lower noise floors, met rated power output, better thermal management, and cleaner sound. Today I see that the mainstream companies products pricing has DROPPED dramatically. I wonder if quality has suffered as well. Let me give an example... Sounstream 15 years ago was a high end company that made top shelf products. Today they are owned my the corporate overlords and have mainstream products. This amp caught my attention for price, performance, and looks. …

i need to get an 0/1 gauge distibution block with 3 or 4 4 gauge outs. i plan to run 8 gauge into one of the outputs, to my 35x4, this wont be a problem right? been looking at the blocks on ebay and i found a couple that look alright to me that aren't too expensive but thought i'd get some opinions before i buy some piece of chit and it wastes one of my amps. heres what i was looking at, does it look about like what i need, or is it with it to go with a stinger? is one fuse as good as another? in some auctions they say midis are better, but seems to me as long as it blows at its rated amps a fuse is a fuse. opinions? http://cgi.ebay.com/EFX-1-0-GA-4-way-DIGIT...1QQcmdZVi…

The Big Oki and his Zapco 9.0's Still laugh at it since it is soooo true.

Okay guys i ran into a problem, i called DC Power and they said they DO NOT have a dual alternator kit for me and without one i WILL have major voltage drop. (I TOLD THEM MY SYSTEM HAS 10,000 WATTS ~ rough estimate) I DO NOT want to drop really low because this system will be a DAILY DRIVER, so i will be playing a lot and i don't want to limit the usage or anything of the sort because of voltage drop. The biggest alternator DC Power had for me is a 320 Amp w/ 180 idle. (I'd really like to go with this company) The Sub Stage; (2) 15" AA SMDs (3500W power handling ~per sub) (2) AQ3500D.1 (1 ohm power @ 14.4V @ < 1% THD 4300W x 1 ~per amp) (4) XS P…

ok so i have heard that i need to do the big three and not get a cap i have a few questions regarding this though i have a bmw and the battery is in the trunk, so do i still need to run the alt to batt wire with fuse? i mean stock is a 4 gauge and since stock is 4 gauge everywhere will the big three help at all? or do i just need to buy a new battery my car dims a lot with a small 300w system and i have a new battery and alternator everything is grounded correctly and i run 4 gauge and 16 for the subs Patrick

Should I still bother with a frame ground if all my amps have direct positive and negative from the battery? My sub amp current has direct runs to the battery of 1/0, which are both less than ten feet.

So I went to a local car audio shop today to see if I could use their DMM. I wanted to get voltage and amp readings to see what my amp was really doing. Of course, first thing he has to be a funny guy and ask me if i need new subs because I replaced the ones I bought from him with a BTL. He lets me use his occilloscope and I take my first reading with car off at batt. 15.5 VOLTS!!! Uh...Wtf? So then Im scared to even start the truck and see what it says then. 18.3 VOLTS!!! SHIT!!! Jumped in under the hood and turned the external voltage regulator set screw all the way down on the alt. This screw was never adjusted by me at all before, mind you. I installed the alt and le…

So my midbass amp shuts off after 15-20 minutes of hard playing. I am pretty sure I am asking the amp to do more than it is capable of, BUT also know my mounting location is NOT ideal. SO heres the details. The amp is a Alpine MRP-F600, capable of 300 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms. I have the amp mounted on the back of the box, with the vents running side to side, in a SEALED trunk. The midbass drivers are Aura NS10-513-4A, Aurasound NS10-513-4A 10" Subwoofer NLA from Madisound The Auras are rated @ 200 watt RMS and 800 peak. I have the Aura's crossed @ HPF 50hz 12db slope, LPF 400hz 12db slope. The Aura' are mounted IB in the front doors. There is TWO other amplifiers in th…

I'm about to order an XS Power D925 for the second battery in my suv. I have a bigger battery upfront i got from o'reilly's. It's not a deep cell but it's about the biggest I could get with out spending a ton cuz i was on a budget. Now my question is should i buy a different battery for upfront? My goals are just to get my voltage to stay at a constant voltage. My amp draws around 1500 rms and when i upgrade will probably be in the 1700-2000 rms range. What do you guys think?

i have a m1d1 usamps amp. it says its a mono amp so does that mean i can only run one sub off of it cause the way it looks it has a pace for two. and if i can run two will they be getting the same power if wired up the same. say if i wire it to one ohm will they both be getting 1200 watts?

Does anyone have a birthsheet for any US Acoustic Amp? If you do, could u post a picture. Thank you. Qckrun

This is a thread where you post pics of birthsheets/benchtests so that people can use this thread as a reference when looking at amplifiers to have a generally idea of what a particular amplifier is capable of producing ...

do the PB amps come with them?

Any one have any experience with this product? The percision power black ice mono block at 1300@1ohms found it for 200 free shipping wanted to jump on it...

Well, got a new Kenwood KDC X794 headunit, set my gains with a dmm (BL 12 btw, powered by a SAE 1200d) to 34v using the gain setting formula here in the forum. And I still don't think my sub is reaching potential. At BEST I get an inch of excursion, and almost every video of other BL 12's ive seen do better than this. I don't think the problem is a LACK of electrical, since my lights dim hardly at all and my voltage never drops below 13.5 (stock electric). But I think there could be a bottleneck somewhere in the electrical. Could this be the problem? I've done the Big 3. I'm not sure what else it could be.

I can either get the base bl 15. Or the ssd with cooling. Im planning on running a soundstream rub1600.1 what do you guys think?

Alright so I am wondering which amp would be better for my setup. The SAZ 1000 or SAE 1200 hooked up to a BL 15 wired at 1 ohm? I know the SAZ is more of a performance amp and the SAE is more commercial I guess. But which one would power the BL better and not cause me to worry about blowing my sub or frying my amp?

I just ordered one 12 1ohm BL, I'm thinking a xtx 3000.1 amp, pushes 1400 arms at one ohm. What do y'all think?

Hello, I have a older Blaupunkt Arizona head unit and has volume issues. All by itself left side channel goes silent. Also, if I adjust the volume dial it doesn't respond very well, it will start to run away in the increasing direction, I have to hit the mute button to get it to stop. I bought another new faceplate thinking that might be the problem, no effect. Still does these annoying things. Anything I can do myself? Unit not worth taking in and paying more than what it is worth. I'm an aircraft mechanic, so I can use a multi-meter and have good mechanical skills. Thanks in advance,

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Ite...A465&tp=115 Link to the amp. I need an 4 channel amp that is 2 ohm stable and has variable cross overs. My fronts are Infinity 682.7s with stock 8" midbass in the doors. No rear speakers. I'm actually happy with the sound using my HU to power the 6x8s, but it is starting to die since the speakers are 2 ohm and the HU is not 2 ohm stable. I also want to be able to control the cross over points of my midbass speakers better.

So I inherited this situation but I'm too deep now to give up. From what I understand, there was one `1200 watt audio pipe hooked up in dudes car. He blew that one. Then he put 2 more in and blew both of them immediately I believe. Seems like a short somewhere in his vehicle to me but I'm no expert. So I went through and tested all the transistors and found multiple output mosfetts to be blown on all 3 amps. I pieced enough "good" irf640 mosfetts together to hopefully make a working unit but I have a short someoene because It bounces bavck from protesct to power. Can anyone help me with this?I have more hours in troubleshooting these things than I care to admit. …