Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

what kind of electrical is need to power a saz-3500? does anyone have experience with db-electrical.com? i saw a HO alternator on their site for $259

I have an 18" IA Death Penalty and a Kenwood hu. I am wondering what amps you would recommend for the 18" I also have Kicker KS series speakers amplified on a hifonics zues. basically wondering what amp to get and if facing the subwoofer up or facing it toward the front seats would be better..if I face it up would it be a big noticeable difference. I plan to tune it around 37hz

what are some high efficient amp brands? 3k-4k watts I know mmats and b2 audio make some efficient amps.

I can’t find anything online on these amps. Leaning towards the crossfire 6k but I would to see clamp results starting at .5 and around 1.2-1.8 ohms after rise between 12.8-13.5 volts ok the new model dd m5 and crossfire xs 6k.

I recently purchased the saz 1500D and last night as i was driving, my sub stopped playing and i heard a loud thud type sound right before it quit working. I checked the amp and the fuse were all blown. I replaced them with more and turned it back on. it took a second but my lights started to dim in my car then the fuses popped still. Everything being powered by the same power line is fine there is nothing wrong with anything else. What do you think the problem is. I believe its a factory problem

anyone heard of this brand amp? is it good? what do yall think about it?

I know a guy that has one of these amps that I can get for about 100 bones. I am more than sure its worth it. I just wondered if anyone here ran it and how good of an amp they are?

Ok, so yesterday I was warming the car up for an oil change and started beating on the system a bit. I noticed one woofer not moving quite as much as the other. So today I took all the speaker wire out of the amps (2 bc3500's strapped) and each woofer is reading 4 ohms??? It's supposed to be wired to 1 ohm per woofer 2 ohm strapped. I don't know what I did wrong. I'm not sure if there is a different way to check impedence if the amps are strapped.? I notices the master amp gets slightly warm and the slave is cold. I need some advice as I'm gettign frazzled. The woofers are 2 fi btl 15's Dual 2's I put a camera inside the box to make sure no wires came loose but everything…

Being a RF employee, I get a chance to beta test some of the units that we have created this year. Right now, I am currently testing the Power T15004: 125 W X 4 @ 4 Ohms RMS 250 W X 4 @ 2 Ohms RMS 375 W X 4 @ 1 Ohms RMS 500 W X 2 @ 4 Ohms Bridged RMS 750 W X 2 @ 2 Ohms Bridged RMS It is 1ohm stable! It is pushing out a lot more than the rated power though...for example: 125W x 4 @ 4 ohms RMS...it is doing 300W x 4 @ 4 ohms RMS!!!!!) The current draw isn't too bad either...(I only have the amp running on 1 channel though.) From what the engineers are telling me though, it is drawing about 200-300 amps at MAX POWER. Here's the kicker: The total RMS (all channels combined…

How would I do this?with out fring my pcm and etc?

i was looking for amps to power 2 or 3 fi btl 18 subs which each rms at 3000, i was going to get two because amps were really expensive and didnt have enough money but then i came across the kicker wx10000 for 1600 dollars i though was a really good price do you guys know any other amps that have good prices. what do you guys think about this amp and how would i connect it? http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Amplifiers/NEW-KICKER-WARHORSE-07WX10000.1-CAR-AMPLIFIER-WX10000.1/07WX10000.1.aspx btw i dont know much about car audio i only know a few stuff

I have a 1997 jeep wrangler, the stock alt makes about 90amps and idles at 14v without amps connected. If I put a h/o alt 200amp, at idle what would my voltage be without amps connected? I'm assuming its going to vary from one vehicle to another, but stock alt 90amps = 14v idle, so 200amps = 14.5v? 15v? Is there any way for me to estimate the voltage at idle?

I'm still not getting the full output of my sub (BL 12), most likely because of low/bad signals from the LOC crudely tapped into the rear speakers at the moment. But I would like to get a new head unit that will give me nice clean signals straight from the head unit. I've narrowed it down to these two (although I'm open for suggestions, like always). I've read on the Steve Meade Forums that this line of the Pioneer head unit was great. But the Kenwood seems very similar. I would like to hear some opinions. http://www.crutchfield.com/s_130P6200BT/Pioneer-DEH-P6200BT.html?tp=5684 http://www.crutchfield.com/s_113KDCX794/Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X794.html?tp=5684

so my friend picked up a mechman 220 for his dodge avenger 2012. with his factory alternator he had some decent dimming of lights and gauges even when cruising down the road. with his mechman he says his voltage will drop to 11.2V on the alternator stud and his car has shut off and restarted itself during idle with the mechman but never with his factory alt. he used an amp meter to find out he has about 65A at idle coming from the alt under load. first off how accurate is that measurement? secondly what steps should one take to isolate the alternator vs a ground or other issue in the system? his system power is about 2KW with a JL 5 channel powering rainbow door compon…

I was deciding on what brand of amp to go with I have cum down to five for my setup. The amps are Directed, Planet Audio, Massive Audio, Concept, and Autotek.

Well I read all of the instructions and whatnot but it seems I have ran into a strange, very strange problem. I soldered it according to the manual and the wiring harness and have three people double check my work and its done correctly. It seems I have to manually turn the cdplayer on and off no matter what state the car is in (on or off). Before when I had my old radio in whenever you took the key out it would turn off the cdplayer but not in this case. Any suggestions? Anything I should check (most of it has been double and triple by two or more people). I am just out of ideas. Its a 2003 VW Passat. I believe I did red to red wire and they both had a power sticker on i…

i have had a couple pioneer 980's that had ground problems, then on the 3rd one i had for over a year with no problems. Now i havent had a stereo in almost a year ( bought a bike and never drive truck), now i am putting stereo in truck. I would like the new 800prs, but have still read of many people having trouble with pioneer ground problems. What headunit does everyone use comparable to the pioneer? Locally, only choices here are pioneer, very few being premier models, alpine, and some lower end kenwoods. thanks for help

i want to get 2 fi bl 18s, but im not sure whether to get them in dual1 or dual2. i want to get a hifonics bxi2608d amp. im confused with the whole ohms thing.

http://blog.sounddomain.com/gadget/2008/07...-stuff-you.html Nice

I currently have a jvc HU and it only has one rca. i have both rca cables wired to my 2 channel amp to my current subs, I want to install a second amp for my front door speakers. I just ordered new subs and a amp from IA. So it will be two death row's running on a 20.1 and a power acoustik 2 channel amp for my doors. So how would I do this or do I need a new head unit?

i've had my system hooked up for several months now and just decided to add a rockford 360 line driver. i hooked it all up with the remote wire to the rockford 360 tied in with the remote wire to my amp. as soon as i started turning it up my amp went into protect mode. so i took i guess at that me adding the remote wire to my amp did it. so i moved the remote wire to one of my secondary batteries just to see and it still throws it into protect mode. the voltage doesnt drop it will just go itno protect mode. any ideas or suggestions? just incase you need to know what i have system wise 2 18'' HDC3 audioque DC power high output alt 3 batteries in the back (2 kintik HC1200) …

I just bought an 18" BTL daily driver fully loaded. The question is which amp should I buy to power this beast? I lookin at the RF T20001bd or the Sundowner 1500d. I know the RF might make more power(2000vs1500) but the sundowner is just a little more expensive. Can anyone tell me about their experience with this brand? (sundowner) I never heard of them before but I hear they are excellent. Please leave a little feedback on what you like and why. I want to slam hella hard for my weekend cruiser(91 Silverado) as I already have a commuter car with 2 15's. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks guys.

I'm thinking about buying an O Scope on a budget,was wondering what you guys thought about this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BB4ETJW/ref=aw_d_dsc_industrial?qid=1388172095&sr=1-4 or might recommend.It'll be a month or 2. Before I buy one.thx

Hello all, My name is Dave Edwards, I'm staioned in Grand Forks AFB, North Dakota, I WAS in the Air Force, I just finished a 5 year tour. I am so damn close to my BSEE degree I can smell it---4 years in work. I have been into car audio for about 12 years, I rebuilt my first amp when I was 13, now I build amps,subwoofers,crossovers, pretty much anything I need. I worked as a System Designer/Consultant for Ampmanaudio.com before it went under. I try to learn as much as I can on the subject and I hope to pass my knowledge onto you.

Yet again, i have a question. I am wanting to add more mids and highs to my setup, do i need a 2 or 4 channel amp to push em? Ive never done it before, never seen a reason honestly, but now i do. Also, 5 or so years ago i did a brake job for someone and they paid me with an amp. it works, but idk if it will work for mids and highs or not. any help would be appreciated. Amp- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Kicker-KX250-2-Amplifier-2-Channel-Amp-Crossover-/140737035274?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20c494bc0a