Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

what kind of electrical is need to power a saz-3500? does anyone have experience with db-electrical.com? i saw a HO alternator on their site for $259

Alrighty, 2001 honda civic sedan ES1. Singer 320 Amp alternator. Came with a black bracket for the bottom and a spacer for the top. Was suggested to get a smaller belt by other people but it won't even go on with the factory size belt. Bottom brackets do not line up at all. Don't really know what to do. Pics Alt with black bottom mounting bracket Alt mounted on top with belt on. Where the black bracket provided does not come close to fitting with the factory adjustable bracket.

Moderators, Sticky Please. Decent Budget Amps -HiFonics TX1505D (1500-x1 @ 1ohm) (Black version of the BX1500 and 05 Model) -$229 Click Here -HiFonics BX1605 (1600-x1 @ 1ohm) - $289 Click Here -HiFonics BX1005D (1000-x1 @ 1ohm) - $200 Click Here -HiFonics BX1500D (1500-x1 @ 1ohm) - $210 Click Here -U.S. acoustics USG2000D (1200-/+x1 @ 1ohm) - $279.99 Click Here -U.S. acoustics USG3000D (1500-/+x1 @ 1ohm) - $349.99 Click Here -Alphasonik PMA1800A (1200-/+x1 @ 2ohm) - $349.99 Click Here -MA Audio HK1998 (1200-/+x1 @ 2ohm) - $299.99 Click Here High End Amps -Memphis 16-MCD1500 (1500+x1 @ 2ohm) - $549.99 Click Here -Memphis 16-MCD1000 (1100+x1 @ 1ohm) - $389.99 Click Here -P…

should i trade my eclipse cd7200 mk ii for the alpine cda 117. what do you guys think? far as sq which one is better. and i know eclipse is out of business. thanks

I just bought an 18" BTL daily driver fully loaded. The question is which amp should I buy to power this beast? I lookin at the RF T20001bd or the Sundowner 1500d. I know the RF might make more power(2000vs1500) but the sundowner is just a little more expensive. Can anyone tell me about their experience with this brand? (sundowner) I never heard of them before but I hear they are excellent. Please leave a little feedback on what you like and why. I want to slam hella hard for my weekend cruiser(91 Silverado) as I already have a commuter car with 2 15's. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks guys.

well i was just taking the photo's off of my phone tonight and found these that i had in there. if anyone cares here they are BAMF 5500

anyone have experience with this amp. all opinions welcome. thanks

I had 2 15" Alpine type r's but now, come to my discovery, i had 16 guage wire running from the amp to the subs... What size should i get for a 15" FI BTL? running a little under 2000 watts? 12? 10 to be safe? ohhhh... the amp says "speaker terminals (molded) 12 ga." i measured, and i could easily fit up to 5 ga.

Well I read all of the instructions and whatnot but it seems I have ran into a strange, very strange problem. I soldered it according to the manual and the wiring harness and have three people double check my work and its done correctly. It seems I have to manually turn the cdplayer on and off no matter what state the car is in (on or off). Before when I had my old radio in whenever you took the key out it would turn off the cdplayer but not in this case. Any suggestions? Anything I should check (most of it has been double and triple by two or more people). I am just out of ideas. Its a 2003 VW Passat. I believe I did red to red wire and they both had a power sticker on i…

my 4 channel HK598 blew. im not exactly sure what the problem is, but its not in protect, it powers on, but no music...something prally broke becuase of the voltage drop. i put the powerbass xa3000d in....as soon as the bass hits, bam, voltage = 8v! this is on the stock electrical though. the powerbass is holding up like a champ, i have it off now though til i get home so i can put my hc2400 in after work, hopefully thatll help....i also emailed EA about an alternator. i really hope the hc2400 helps though in retaining power to at least 12v while the alt can recharge it....becuase right now the voltage drop is just ridiculous. its loud though. 15" treo ssx in like 4 cube…

Memphis 1000.1 or a JL 1000.1 which is a better amp i was going with the JL

someone please help me out...i just bought a system but completely forgot that i had to buy a wire harness. and now that i'm looking for one, i cant find it. i got a 2005 Pontiac Grand Am, 3.4L 4 Dr Sedan

i have a client with a 6 battery bank in the bed and dual factory battery locations up front. he has 2 alternators and each alternator is going to its side battery so the driver side alt is going to the driver side battery and passenger alt going to the passenger side battery. i dont know - does having 2 point of voltage input going to two different batteries in an electrical system present any kind of issue? e.g. should these alternators be rewired to both go to a single positive terminal on one battery or is status quoe good enough? we are pushing close to 1200A at full tilt and are considering a 3rd alternator in an after market bracket (current two are in factory loc…

Hey guys ok my situation is this i have replace my stock battery with a kinetik 2400 and i also have a 800 my lights still dim badly i am running a hifoniks brutus bxi 2608 im running the full 2600 on 1 ohm on my cascade designs omega 15. Since i have a dodge charger my batterys are in the trunk only and the stock cable going to the battery form the alt is i believe 2 awg i forget. my alt is 140 amps. and the cable going batt to batt is 1/0 and the ground is 1/0. my idea is this i will mount another kinetik hc800 under my hood right by the alternator and run 1/0 to it from the alt +. then run 1/0 off the + of the battery to the 2 batteries in the trunk will this solve m…

i want to get 2 fi bl 18s, but im not sure whether to get them in dual1 or dual2. i want to get a hifonics bxi2608d amp. im confused with the whole ohms thing.

Alright this is probably a dumb question but im really new to car audio and want to make sure i dont mess anything up, especially when im working with so much expensive equipment. I have a sundown SAX-50.4 that i plan to power my Morel tempo6 2-way component speakers. I'm wondering what the best way to wire to my crossovers would be. Im confused because i have the 4 channels but only 2 crossovers, so would i bridge them? and how would i do that correctly so i keep the left and right signals? sorry if this doesnt make sense, im sick and on alot of medication

Ok so I was on my way home from work and my sub stopped hitting so I pulled over immediately got out and looked to see what was wrong. My amp was in protection so I made sure my headunit was completely off and turn my car off and back on again. I went back and checked and the amp wasnt it protection but there was no power light either. I popped the hood and looked at the fuse for my power wire and it was blown. So I changed out that one with a spare one i had. As soon as I turned the car again the inline fuse blew again. Can someone help me? What is making it do this? My gain was set with DMM and I have been driving it for two weeks with no issues. Any help would be aweso…

In probably a month or so I will be purchasing 2 sundown SA 12s, and I'm trying to figure out which amp would be best for the subs any suggestions would be appreciated. -Hifonics brx 1600.1D -Hifonics Zrx 1800.1D -Audiopipe AP 1500

I need to order 3 pair of RCA's before the SWVA TeamSSAudio meet, wanting to install 8053, anyway, I have not bought high end RCA's in a while, and I am not going to buy monster cable, I have bought mostly decent RCA's for normal needs. For this install, hopefuly for SQ competition, if not just for high end SQ in my car. I would like to stay under $50ish. I am considering the Knukonceptz Krystal Cable, RF, and maybe the Tara labs cable that Nick Lemons reffered to. Any help in this would be nice, hope to order asap.

I recently purchased the saz 1500D and last night as i was driving, my sub stopped playing and i heard a loud thud type sound right before it quit working. I checked the amp and the fuse were all blown. I replaced them with more and turned it back on. it took a second but my lights started to dim in my car then the fuses popped still. Everything being powered by the same power line is fine there is nothing wrong with anything else. What do you think the problem is. I believe its a factory problem

I haven't built a system since 2009. I had 2 Fi BTL 15's in a pound that sound box, powered by a SAZ 3000D. Well, my kid is becoming a bass head and is wanting to build a system in his car. I suggested him helping me build one in my car first so that he can learn more about it and see what he really wants before spending his money. I'm planning on putting an SSA ICON 10 with an SAE 1000D or maybe a 1500D , all in the trunk of my 2017 Mustang GT. Im going more for sound quality than SPL this time around. My car came with the sync and navigation package. I want to keep my dashboard stock but obviously don't have any RCA outs on the stock navigation/radio unit. It was sugge…

I have a Ford, and there's this feature that doesn't shut the radio off until the doors open. Also, I will be going to school this month, and campus is small enough that I won't be driving the car unless I'm heading to the mall of back home. From what I've read, an isolator seems necessary in my case (D3400 and XP950), but I'm not sure if the diode-style will be practical, and if it's safe to have an isolator rated for higher amps than the system draws.

looking at replacing my two MA Audio HK802sx Amps for two hcca 2500's possibly...... http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...sid/0/SFV/30046 I know this company has been taken over by directed elelctronics...and all the orion products arent what they used to be but....ive installed several of there new Cobalt series amps and speakers in customers vehicles and they all seem to perform very very well for the price.....so i was hoping someone had some insight on there new hcca 2500 model...... The amps i have now work great, but i only had one amp at first......then i upgraded from 8 memphis 12's to 4 Fi SSD 15's w/ bp power option and copper coils Dual 1 ohm and added …

I am looking for some amp meters and an oscope. id like to get your guys's opinions as to what brands and models work well. id love to have flukes but the cost is just to high for right now. i was looking into those pocket oscopes but id like to be able to have a comparative input option so i can pull from 2 sources at a time. anyone know if they make such a module?

Yet again, i have a question. I am wanting to add more mids and highs to my setup, do i need a 2 or 4 channel amp to push em? Ive never done it before, never seen a reason honestly, but now i do. Also, 5 or so years ago i did a brake job for someone and they paid me with an amp. it works, but idk if it will work for mids and highs or not. any help would be appreciated. Amp- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Kicker-KX250-2-Amplifier-2-Channel-Amp-Crossover-/140737035274?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20c494bc0a