Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Does anyone have any experience with these amps? Are they reliable? I just bought the little 500.1 to try out in the sq oriented install. I bought it because its so versitile with its wiring options and I got it dirt cheap but I havent heard anything about its relliablity.

I had the Addictive Audio 10.4 (115x4 @ 4 ohms) screwed into the box playing the 2 Selenium 6W4Ps active fine for a while. I started getting a static sound from the speakers, when I noticed that nearly all (7 out of 8) screws that hold the casing of the amplifier to the internals had stripped out and was barely hanging on for dear life. I took the amp off the box and took it inside to have a look, and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. That being said, I have no idea what I'm looking at, but there were no loose wires, no solder points that had failed, etc. I gave it another try and set it on the floor of the truck beside the AQ2200D, wired it all up, played fine for…

Long story short, I'm keeping the factory Nav/HDD/BLUETOOTH/IOD/DVD/MP3 head unit in my '11 Ram. I installed a PAC OEM-1 (OEM-CHR3) for the plug and play ease plus remote turn on from the can bus system. My question is on setting the output levels of the OEM-1. I installed the OEM-1 and just turned all four outputs on the LOC all the way up. Is this correct? Is there any reason I wouldn't want them all the way up to feed the amplifiers the highest signal level?

Well, it is finally time for me to get a new head unit for the Bronco. I really like the Alpine cda-7893 that is in it now but it's from 2002 and is cd only. The Alpine skips like crazy now when I try to get some decent bass going in there and I need to begin testing for next season so I'm going to purchase a new unit with usb. I'm looking for some suggestions on other units that I may have overlooked and some opinions on the few that I'm already interested in. Here's the list of requirements: 1)Single DIN 2)3 preouts 3) USB (front really preferred) 4) Ability to play cds Here's the list of units that I'm thinking about: Kenwood KDC - x895 (I like this one and will probab…

Hi im looking to buy two Fi 12" SSD's and want to hook them up to only one amp, is it possible to wire them at 1 OHM?

Looking to possibly upgrade to 2 15" zcons and was looking at the bc5500. Just wondering what kind of electrical people were running to these. And how the felt about that amp. I have a 320 amp DC alt with 2 yellow tops in the back. I think I should be fine but can add more yellow tops if needed.

hi guys have a question. i went threw some car audio stuff my brother owned back in 98 before he pass away and never knew about this stuff tell now. and i see he had this rockford fosgate 4040 dsm 4 channel amp that still work's and was told that this amp is a beast. but my question is what is the true rms rating per channel on this amp.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=265-081 Could that amplifier reliably produce at least 30w rms per channel run as a sub amp? rated for a 4ohm minimum, but with plenty of reserve i'll be running it at 2ohms.

So while doing research on the 800/880's I came across the 9800bt. Now from what I can tell they are pretty close in head units with the main differences being. 9800 - color display, bt 800/880 - active capable, left and right equalization, im sure some more tuning options im forgetting. Are there any more major differences in these 3 units? I do know they both have burr brown 24 bit converters and 5 volt outs and lots of tuning options. Now at the moment I'm not going to be running active. Eventually I want to learn how to properly go active and all the tuning that goes into making a good sounding system. Any opinions? Are there any more major differences in these 3 uni…

hi, i have this amp : KOIILER XM-6666 2CH 420W and i want to add to my 2001 bmw x5 , i have one each door 2 speakers -1 bigger size regular oem speaker) and 1 a smaller size (twitter oem) and also on the top dash i have 2 twtters oem's and i see in trunk that i have all wires coming there, i also have a box with 2 speakers (it looks that is the sub-woofer) so now how should i connect all this to my above amp with out burning those twitters ? the head unit in front that i am using is the new dynavin e39a (d95) from dynavin[dot]com let me know ,any advice! thanks

I'll be running a Fully Active front stage and am intrigued by what options Sony's 2011 headunits have to offer. Does anyone have any experience with it any of them that can comment on Sound Quality and Build Quality. The one i'm interested in is: DSX-S310BTX http://www.crutchfield.com/p_158DSX310B/Sony-DSX-S310BTX.html?tp=5684#details-tab http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921666372151#specifications 7 Band EQ Time alignment/LowPass/HighPass 4 Volt Preouts (front, rear, subwoofer) Bluetooth Pandora Radio Capabilities Front USB 17x4 rms (wish it was more but that's what i get …

What build houses make most internet brand amps. Is a crescendo 3.5ks any different than a AQ 3.5k and so on. What's makes one brands quality better it worse when its all the same shit.

just like my title says, does anyone know where i can get the remote gain for my aq3500? should i contact aq or what?? Thanks!

Just as the topic states. For example, what would be the 4 ohm rating for a AB 1100.1 be? I know on their Website it says or shows what it does at 1 Ohm, but what would it do at 4 Ohms? Is there a Formula to this Madness or do you simply divide the RMS of the Amp by 4 to get the 4 Ohm Rating? I know I am going to get some Stupid answers, BUT I would really like to hear Educated and Smart Answers. Thank you in Advance my Fellow Bass Heads. Also if you know the 4 Ohm Ratings for your Amps for you Sub Stage, would you kindly list your info in this Format. Make: Model: 1 Ohm or whatever Ohm Load your Amp's RMS is rated at: The Amp's 4 Ohm RMS Rating: Again Thank you in Advanc…

I'm looking at maybe picking up the N4 which is Massive's new Nano line. Was wondering if anyone has experience with the Nano line. I've had older lines of Massive amps and I think they are fine, but never tried the Nanos. Wondering how hot they get.

soo i started my truck up at the bar,dude wanted to hear the system, cranked it up played a new cd i got. so my amp went into protect. i assume i clip at 26 vol on my head unit it goes to 30. i played it at 26. played the amp at what i would play it to do a demo with out distortion (by ear)and it went into protect! never had this problem AND i just put a xs 3400 under the hood it was at 14.5ish volts no drop....sooo like any ideas why this happened anything i should check or what not?

hi everyone have a problem and need your help i have a lanzar opti drive amp and i hook it up all right. the amp shows power but puts out no bass to my subs. now when i turn off my car the amp still stays on even when i pull out 1 of my fuses in the amp,

I need to pick out an amp for my front stage. As of right now the vehicle is bone stock..I've purchased a set of 6.5 components (fosgate power t1's). I plan to run them using the supplied passive crossovers in stock locations. Have no plans to run an active setup anytime soon but who knows what will happen in the future. I would like to spend under $250 but could possibly spend more if there is a good reason too. Looking for about 100x4 @ 4ohms and bridgable. I have a MB quart dsc4125 in another vehicle and its OK but want something else for this vehicle. What's out there that's worth a crap?

I have a chance to pick up a Ultra Linear UL1500X for $50 bucks and was wondering if it was a good amp and price? It would be used to replace my Earthquake PH120.2. to run 2 Earthquake dbx10 10 subs. Here are the specs: 1500W Class X Mono Block Amplifier 12-17V Power Input 0.2-8V RCA Input Voltage Frequency Response 10 Hz - 350 Hz Short / Overload / Thermal Protection Bridgeable with second Class X amplifier 24dB Variable Subsonic Filter 24dB Variable Low Pass Filter 0-18dB Variable Bass Boost Remote Gain Control Module RCA Line Output RMS Power @ 14.4V DC 1 x 500W @ 4 Ohm 1 x 750W @ 2 Ohm 1 x 1000W @ 1 Ohm RMS Power @ 17V DC 1 x 750W @ 4 Ohm 1 x 1000W @ 2 Ohm 1 x 1500W @…

Hi everyone im going to be running a kicker component set for my front stage and in my back seat i will have selenium super tweeters the component set is 4 ohms, but the super tweeters are 8 ohms, the component set is 100rms per pair (driver and tweeter) and the super tweeters are 100rms each. i plan to buy a sundown 100.4 now for the speaker system. is it ok to run everything per channel? what ohm load would everything be? i assume 4ohm and is that ok for the supertweeters? this all sounded good in my head but now physically its lookin a mess lol... please dont judge my decision to get supertweeters, i know i will enjoy them.. this would be my first build with supert…

I just received a set of fosgate t1 components. They have a bi amp switch on the crossover...this is new to me I've never done it. I eRad the manual and it appears I need either a 4 ch amp or 2 -2 ch amps. So I switch it to biamp 'on position and basically run the tweets with a set of channels and the miss with another through the supplied crossover.. is that it? What are the advantages of doing this vs not bi-amping?

Alright so i was fooling around with the options in my headunit and i found something thats called BBE. I looked it up and its a type of processor i think, anyways, i turned it on and everything sounded WAY better, not only louder, but crisper and the midbass also sounded alot better. The ONLY downside i see to this setting so far is that it shuts off at 22/35. Im speachless.

I am in the market for an efficient amp to power 3 12" punch HX2s...Can anyone recommend a good/sturdy efficient amp for within $325? I need at least 1500wRMS. Thanks!

im lookin to finally upgrade my electrical im only running 1 1200 but i have big plans coming im just looking for a good batt for under the hood then add some to the back thanks.

I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500HD that I have added the big 3 in 1/0 and a stinger spp1500d to. Inside I have a crescendo bc2000 powering a dc xl 12 d2 and a merlon meam50.4 powering my components and coaxials. While playing music with the bass up the low notes make the voltage drop. Sometimes down to the mid 12s from about 14.18. What can I do to fix this? Would an alt be the best way to go? If so what size and brand do i need? Also has anyone messed with the alts on dbelectrical.com?