Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

I am looking for an amp to run a pair of icons, would need to put out between 1500-2200 @ 1 or 2 or 4 ohms depending on which VC configuration. these are my choices so far 1) Sundown SAZ-1500d @ 1ohm 2) US Amps Merlin MD3 (2000w) @ 1 ohm 3) Hifonics Colossus @ 4 ohms bridged (2000w) 2) 2x Kicker ZX1000 now i will be running an HC1400 under the hood, with a Batcap 800 in the trunk(next best thing to a battery cause i am trying to keep it somewhat light), 1/0 throughout, Big 3, 10 additional 4amg grounds on chassis. the car only has a 110 amp alt. stock, so i am looking for the most efficient amp possible. From what i remember the kickers seem to fall on the less efficient …

Hey guys! OK, my third post is supposed to be here so here goes. I am about to purchase a pair of Alpine SPR-17S component speakers for my truck. Here are the specs: Power Handling:Peak: 660 watts per set / 330 watts each sideRMS: 220 watts per set / 110 watts each side[*]Impedance: 4 ohms[*]Hybrid layered-pulp woofer with rubber surround[*]1" Textile ring-dome tweeter (silk)[*]External crossovers — 12 dB/octave (high -pass) and 6 dB/octave (low-pass) crossover points[*]Frequency response: 65 Hz - 27 kHz[*]Sensitivity: 87 dB The two amps I'm considering are these: JL Audio Slash v2 300/2v2 (link click here) Slash v2 Series 2-Channel Class AB Car AmplifierRMS Power Ratin…

hey guys ill be running a Jbl 1200.1 watt amp at 1117 watts rms at 2ohm on a fi bl 18in do i need to get a new altenator to power that amp or will i just be fine with a capcitor ill be running this while the car is on. i hope i just can use a capacitor cause my money budget is low

Hi my step brother has two phoenix gold octane 10s and a phoenix gold 2 channel amp, and when he has both subs hooked up the amp goes into protect mode but when only one is wired to it it plays fine but when u hook two up again it goes back into protect mode... occasionally it will play with both wired up but only for about 1 min. then it goes back into protect mode until 1 is unwired. is it the subs or amp (oh yea one of the subs sounds like its blown but still plays just distorted)

okay i had my mind set on getting these amps 2 of them. after hearing my friends 2010d powering 2 15" ssd's it sounds really really good. every "expert" i've talked to said those are the best amps for the buck right now and HIGHLY recommend them. and i've seen a 2010d power 8 12" AQ's for a long time (5 months) before it overheated/blew. i've always heard (a few years ago) that they have overheating problems. but then again i heard the 2010 models have a different circutiy. i'm really confused on this i do not have the money to spend on "testing" amps anymore and i'm tired of blowing money on low end equipment. so anyways i had my mind set on 2 bxi2610's for about a…

Whats up everyone, alright so i came across this voltage meter on amazon today and was wondering what you guys think of it. Its a ciggarette lighter voltage gauge. Do you think it would be accurate? If not how off do you think it is and why? i know the cig lighter is hooked straight up to the battery and its a 12v lighter but will this volt meter be accurate at all? here it is http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1307664465&sr=8-3

i just intall my some what done system and its sounds ok no rattle at all, you guys might say wow great but there is a problem i cant crank it up i get a major voltage drop i did the big 3 already. I have a kicker kx 2500.1 on 2 15's L5 at 4 ohms with a red top under the hood and they are in a crown vic 96 i believe the alternator is 130 amps. i have several things on mind buy another battery or buy an alternator svr battery http://www.svrbatteries.com/battery_page.php?bid=25 kinnetik battery http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...rksid=p3907.m29 alternator http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200-amp-Amp...itemZ7960517007 what will make it better any s…

should i trade my eclipse cd7200 mk ii for the alpine cda 117. what do you guys think? far as sq which one is better. and i know eclipse is out of business. thanks

I'm lookin at a few units with time alignment and won't break the bank. Eclipse and Clarion are the ones I've paid specific attention to. I kinda want to keep my Eclipse 8053 but would like some of the new features like USB/bluetooth. I am looking at HUs with time alignment and possibly a decent crossover built in but not necessary as I am thinkin of getting an external one. Anyone with first-hand experience or links to reviews?

How do you guys strap your rear battery's down from moving? Im trying to add a second battery to my s10 and im kind of stumped right now, i have a few extreme idea's but its alot of damn work. I did it in my tahoe but it was easy, perfect spot under rear seat, this one will be where the rear fold down seat would be in an extended cab S10. what i have right now is the seat removed and I built a false floor in the area, I have a battery box but its too tall for this battery, i could cut it down maybe 3-4" but im afraid its gonna look horrible. i could also build like a battery box out of wood and screw it down, but my woodworking skills arent the greatest either, probably w…

pretty much like the topic says i just want some opinions how many batts should you run on 2 SAZ-3000d's with a 225amp alt ?

hey everyone, my first post on ssa, woot woot, As of now, I have a fi bl 15, hifonics 1208d (i know everyones facorite brand of amps) getting wire for the big 3 and a h/o alt. anyways i ended up with some more money and was wondering if i should trade my amp back and for 200 for what i payed, get a rockford power t10001bd. i have been reading up on Alphasonic and ive been getting mixed reviews on them. i could get one and then sell my hifonics and still have some cash left over. but people have been telling me that Alphasonic and Hifonics are very similar if not the same in terms of basicly about everything. Im new to this and it is my first real system that im having, Ro…

ok i had 2 mmats 3500.5 but those where lost(plz dont ask I still what to kill the wife) so i need to get 3 amps for 3 d1 btl 18 fully loaded but stay under 2100 bucks for all 3 to my door any ideas

if I could get a brand new one for 215 shipped, is there any reason not to? I know of the SAE1200D and AQ1200D's that are 250 shipped. I have had one of these amps about 4 years ago probably, and really liked it, but are the other 2 choices way better? I know Ive heard alot of bad things about their business pracitces in years past, but just try and think of product ability when you make a choice. not going to buy my subs right now, but figured when the NINe.1 is usually way more expensive I figured Id buy it now while I can get that price.

Just curious if anyone knows of a double din touchscreen hu that could keep up with something such as the 80prs audio control wise. I like to use cds and usbdrives, so extra points for those additionally.

The guy has two for sale a big one and a portable one. 100 for the big one. 50 for the portable. I can't tell which one is which but is this a good deal anyways? I don't know how much I could use this or even how. But I know they're expensive. So my question is should I call him and get it now or just settle for setting my gains with a dmm or just by ear? Here's the link. http://austin.craigslist.org/ele/1560089213.html

as the title says I need a downloadable users manual for the cda-7949. Alpine doesn't have them or pac parts. I'd be glad to pay for copied one of you have it. All help appreciated. Thanks, Joe. P

Alright.. just recently bought and installed a set of the zapco i-6 component's. .. running them off a MBQuart 4125..Let me get to the problem im having.. my Volume knob can go up to 60 i believe... when i crank up the volume to say 47 my high's (the zapco components) sound as if someone put a pillow over them.. then as i turn the volume down to around 30ish it clears back up.. I at first thought maybe something internally came loose in the amp since its mounted to the box with my 18" BTL in it.. so I cut the subs out of the equation completely.. still does it at around the same volumes.. This was a problem i was having with my old 6.5" Eclipse door speakers i had before …

I have a RF Power T500-1BD. I was thinking about running it at .5 ohm to a DC Audio Level 3 15. Can the Power series handle that kind of load?

Can using a bass knob cause damage? If so, to what extent. Should I go ahead & set my gains to what my bass knob would normally be? And finally, what exactly does the bass knob effect? Does it stay within the preset gains? I like being able to turn it down with just that little knob, or turn it up when I want to blare it. I was thinking of setting it all the way up, then the gain to where it gets the right AC Voltage, would it be fine?

Which is a better battery: Powermaster d3100 or the kinetik 2400?

okay so i know this might be a noob question but hey im a noob lol. so i want to run 2 runs of 0 guage power to my amp, but they amp only has one input so can i take a normal distribution block and put the two power wires from the battery up front into the the usual out spots and put one run from the amplifier to the input of the block? i will also run 2 runs of ground if i can, i just want to make sure i get as much power to my amp as i can even know i know its over kill. hopefully i can upload this right but here is a picture to help explain what i mean.

Ok a lot to go through but ill start with my Saz 1500d wired @ 1ohm to a nightshade 18 d2, i have a 106ah marine batt up front big 3 in 1/0 with all grounds secured to chassis HU is alpine 9883 car is a 1978 ford Ltd. alt was upgraded to 100 amps from 60 (awaiting HO alt). Voltage checked before and after all fuses 14 with car on 12 with car off, previously the remote lead went out on the HU so i ran a toggle switch via jumper wire and all was fine. The problem started after i finished the big 3 everything was going smooth at full tilt voltage staying above 13 volts then after about 10 min of play with car running amp stopped playing no protect light or anything so i…

I have been debating on how to ground multiple runs of 1/0 for my upcoming install. So I figure weld some 5/16 bolts to a length of steel channel bar, then weld that to the body of the car. this would give multiple point fors grounding and I wouldn't have to rely on screwing ring terminals to the sheet metal and risking it coming loose.

Here it is..... I have a Defeat ON/OFF switch. If I have the Defeat switch ON the nulls all my setting on the HU correct. I want to bea able to use my Draconia crossover points and play with my EQ on the HU. If I set my HU to Defeat OFF, and set the crossover HP crossover points lower than the settings on my amp and my LP point higher than what I'm running, can I take advantage of my crossover points on the amps and still be able to use my para EQ? Example: HU crossover is set at 20hz HP and my amp is set at 60hz, do I get the 60hz crossover point?