Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Optima yellow top is 150 at auto zone. I heard that the Everstart batteries would be just as good and thier only like 60 at wal-mart.. which one, i cant have 2 otherwise i'll be in street mx3-4

Not my choice, but this girl needs an amp that does 400 watts @ 2 ohms. List a few ideas for me.

I currently have 2 batteries in my car. I've been using my ctek 3300 to charge both at the same time... Shizz mentioned something about not charging batteries at the same time because of possible issues with rest voltage differences between batteries. If I want to charge mine separately, could I just disconnect the positive(charge) wire and leave the ground connected when charging the batteries so they are charged separate??? Does this make sense?

I was wondering if anyone on here uses or dislikes the powerbass xa3000 and if you use it did you have any problem with it. i already have an orion 2500d on my sub but i also have had this powerbass sitting in my room because it was in protect mode and a local repairer said he couldnt fix it. i just want to see if its worth fixing i only bought it for 150 bucks and would it be better than the 2500d?

Ok so I am about to add a battery soon to my system and I was talking to a local audio place and he said an idea and wanted to make sure it would work without issue's. So When i run my wire back from my front battery I need to place a fuse close to that battery, Then everyone always says you should place another fuse right before the rear battery on the same power line. Then I wasn't for sure if you need another fuse between the rear battery and the amp also since its only like a 2-3ft wire of power?... But ok.. so he said instead of buying a fuse near my rear battery and a fuse between the amp and rear battery ( because this would = 3 total fuses ) He said on the rear b…

Have two D2 Fi BL's each coil reads 1.7 like it should, I have them wired series/parallel for 2 ohm load being amps are strapped, when I disconnect sub wires from amp terminals to check the ohm load I'm at 1ohm technically I would be at .8 due to dmm is .2 off, I have each coil ran to back of box with 8 bolts/wing nuts, for easy load change, shouldnt my load be higher with box rise/resistance of bolts n everything else that comes into play, I triple checked all wiring from top to bottom pulled subs out several times checking coils/wires and everything is 100% right anyone have an idea

I have always crimped my connections as they mostly are 8 awg or less. Moving to large wire I have found crimping to be a royal pain in the a$$. I was looking at soldering as a nice option but I have only ever soldered water pipes. Is the process and technique basicly the same? Flux the wire and inside of bass connector, heat connector, insert wire and place solder around the edge of the wire so that it is pulled into the connector? Any help that you could provide or tricks of the trade would be great. Plan on upgrading the Big 3 this weekend and some under the hood wiring. Thank you.

im upgrading my sub to an xcon probably 12..maybe 15 (id like to get atleast some hair movement for an extra $10 why not) gunna be running it of a rockford fostgate 1500w amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_26139_Rockford-Fosgate-T1500-1bdCP-2010-Model.html a few people said that their birth sheet said 1900W battery to amp is 4G wire im driving a 98 honda crv so its a small suv question is... for running that amount of power do i: need to do the big 3? need to upgrade the stock battery (51R there pritty small) OR add another one? What would be the ideal set up to make sure everything is working full potential? and do i NEED to do it? Reason im asking is im probably…

Ok, I'm going to make this short.... Who in their right mind would design an amplifier capable of producing upwards of 1000 watts of output, but supplies the cheesiest little friggin power connectors to run it?! I just spent hours trying to figure out how to connect 4 gauge wire to a set of crappy little power connectors that could only accept 10 gauge at most. I finally ended up using a piece of airplane cable and cable sleeve to "step the wire down" to an appropriate diameter. I was to two different "car audio shops" here in the city and explained my dilemma. All I got was a sorry, can't help you. What do you guys do when faced with this situation?

Has anyone ever heard of their wiring? I've been looking at it because it was so cheap. It's on 1800woofers and I've looked at welding supply, I'm debating on which one to get right now. Thanks guys

im not too sure what bass boost is or how to properly set it. some of the people i know say i shouldnt use while others say it helps...please help i know probably a noob question.

Hey guys!!! I bought an alpine cde123 and it says it has 4v preouts before clipping. Well I am wondering why when I measure at volume 23(at 24 the speakers start to distort) it only measures .188v, I had to max my amp gain out to get it to play full tilt. Even the the amp clipping light doesn't come on when it's up all the way? What could be the cause of this?

Well, I've installed a complete new system in a friends SUV (minus a headunit). Everything is going great and just trying to tweak thinks a bit. One thing that is real obvious is the low bass extension. Is this a problem with having a LOC instead of an aftermarket unit. I have heard that this can be a problem in my situation. Is there a cure for this? I would like her to have full range capabilities. Thanks.

If you have one post up your opinion please.

I have a Hifonics XX-Colossus II, would the new Hifonics Colossus be better or worse? Mine: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5382_Hifonics-XX-Colossus-II.html The new one: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_32990_Hifonics-Colossus.html I noticed the new one's CEA-2006 compliant.

anyone heard of this brand amp? is it good? what do yall think about it?

I can’t find anything online on these amps. Leaning towards the crossfire 6k but I would to see clamp results starting at .5 and around 1.2-1.8 ohms after rise between 12.8-13.5 volts ok the new model dd m5 and crossfire xs 6k.

just got my amp. in the box it came with a paper that says "Total Maximum Power Output: 930 watts." can anyone explain what exactly this means? like is it at 2 ohms at a certain voltage or is it the 2 ohm and 4 ohm ratings total added? or what? thanks!

How do i know what size fuse to get? 20 amp or 300 amp? Is it a preference thing or what? Anybody care yo elighten me...

My radio make my subs "pop" when I change tracks and turn off the car. I have tried replacing the rca's that didn't help. differnt head unit stopped it. But I wanna try to keep my kenwood. Any sugestions. I have heard that there is away to stop it just don't know how.

I am torn here an what amp(s) to power my 2 SP4 18's. I am looking to run RMS to them for a strong daily setup. If I ever do compete would be strictly for fun once. My thoughts are either.... DD M4a @ 1ohm........used 2 DD M3a's @ .5 ohm each........used Crescendo BC5500 @ 1ohm..........new DC 5.0k @ 1ohm...........used Sundown 4500 ( a little expensive IMO).........used 2 Sundown 2500's @ .5 ohm each........used Electrical should support whichever setup....Mechman 270, 2 Redtops under the hood and 2 XS d3400's in the rear with multiple runs of 1/0 gauge to rear. Front stage will get a Crescendo PDX 6.5, 8in and FT1 in each door ran of a Alpine PDX 4.150. I am leaning hea…

Anyone have the dimensions?

Hi guys, I'm about to get a brand new Mazda CX-5 : I already made a big payment on it, I need to sell my Toyota auris. This Mazda has no Bose option, nothing too fancy. Should I get an aftermarket head unit or keep the factory one. I will run my 2 amps on my speakers : one IA 20.1 and a 3.4 1) I can use my current Pioneer 9300 sd, and still have my steering wheel control, with an additionnal Pioneer or a PAC module. It seems easy. 2) I can keep the factory head unit and add a processor or a line driver, whatever, to run my both amplifiers. What would you do ? I don't need bluetooth, I don't know yet for any rear camera, but I may need it later. It will be my fir…

is there going to be any auidible difference between the two amps? and how much more power is the t1500 gunna suck out of my system? will be used for a 15" XCON

I'm about to grab up a normal ANL fuse holder from Knu when I notice they have this "high current" fuse holder that uses multiple mini ANL fuses instead of one big honker like the normal one, (not the mini). They say it will have "lower voltage drop across the fused surface area" as well as handling higher currents. Is there any validity to this statement? Has anyone had any experiece with one of these to know if it really has any great affect on voltage drop? I'm just curious...