Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Hey guys, I need your help. I decided to change out my substage and now I keep blowing fuses in the distro block after I start my car. Here's my old set-up: Vehicle: JDM 2000 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon (Twin Turbo) Battery: Bosch Premium (American Bosch Platinum S5 equivalent) Big 3: Streetwires Ultra Flow 1/0 H/U: Alpine CDA-9887 Front Speakers: Kicker Impulse i525 Amp: US Amps USA-50 Subs: TC Sounds OEM 10 (x2) Amps: US Amps USA-200 (x2) **NEW Substage: Sub: 12" SSA ICON Amp: US Amps PT-1100 I've got 1/0 going from my battery (200A fuse) to my trunk and running into a 3-way distro block (fuse sizes are 25A, 60A, an…

i dont know if im in the right section but i have a ZAP and i wanted to know is it like a EQ in hand?

any 1 use these amps and which one puts out more power http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_25297_Planet-Audio-BB1400.1.html

I current have a 250a DB Electrical alt installed with a Deka 9a78DT as my front battery running 1500 watts. At idle I drop to around 13.9 and when cruising I stay right at 14.5 volts. Now I want to run 4300 in the near future and need to know how many batteries and what batteries would be best. I'm kinda thinking three Deka 9a31's but am open to other things and am willing to buy used. I want to try and stay around 600 for all of them so gimme an idea for how many and what I should get.

Alright this is probably a dumb question but im really new to car audio and want to make sure i dont mess anything up, especially when im working with so much expensive equipment. I have a sundown SAX-50.4 that i plan to power my Morel tempo6 2-way component speakers. I'm wondering what the best way to wire to my crossovers would be. Im confused because i have the 4 channels but only 2 crossovers, so would i bridge them? and how would i do that correctly so i keep the left and right signals? sorry if this doesnt make sense, im sick and on alot of medication

Im considering on buying one of these head units and would like to know if you guys have any opinion on which one you think is better. In terms of sound quality, functionality, features, ipod use

I have a lil over 700$ to spend on an amp for my 18" BTL I was thinking on buying a Rockford Fosgate T20001bd for a lil over 700$ And money is kinda tight with college coming up and bills and such.. Or just wait and save up a little more cash and get the Sundown 3000D Its really just a ground pounder and im not really concerned about numbers on the mic.. My question is, Is that Rockford a good amp to push my BTL? I just know how Sundown is all good talk and wonderful customer service..

I drive a 2003 Saturn Ion with a stock alternator 105Amps, I dont compete just daily driving and live in Dallas so my trips can be an hour or more(but not everytime I leave the house). Im planning on doing some electrical upgrades to the vehicle and just dont know how to go about it, so my SSA family help me out. I have a Sundown SAZ-200oD (200A), SAX-125.2 (60A) and a four channel in he future probably SAX100.4(90A), so I wanna plan these upgrades around all the three amps(around 350A, give or take a little) and not what I currently have. Question #1: Do I need an High Output alternator or not, if so I have found a 200Amp one for my car and I will get that? Question #2: …

just sold my jl audio hd amps. right now i am running some old school soundstream stuff untill i settle on some new amps. should i go with the old school linear power or the new zed audio? looking for the ""SQL"" set up i run 12w7's,jl audio c5 comps up front and and jl audio c2 comps for rear fill. should i stay with old school stuff or go with the new class d stuff again.

I was looking to do a big three this weekend and was wondering how would you do the bir 3 when the battery is in the trunk. Does it take away from the whole idea?

I recently purchased a old school zed made Autotek 220mxi. The guy sold it cheap as he had no clue on car audio worth. The amp powered up and worked well for about 3 hours of moderate use. It was powering 2 RE Audio SE-X 12D4s. I had it wired at 2 ohm stereo mode (2 ohm load each channel) which I thought the amp could handle. I ran a good 4 gauge power wire and ground (knukonceptz) with a 60AMP inline fuse and the gain was at maybe 40% max. Bass on stereo set at 0, loudness on low setting. After about 3 total hours of use spread out over 2 days it quit. When it died you could smell the "dead amp" smell of burnt electronics and it blew the inline fuse as well. Just for kic…

i recently bought a fi bl 15 dual 1 ohm sub and in desperate need of an amp with 0 guage connectors

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Well, I've installed a complete new system in a friends SUV (minus a headunit). Everything is going great and just trying to tweak thinks a bit. One thing that is real obvious is the low bass extension. Is this a problem with having a LOC instead of an aftermarket unit. I have heard that this can be a problem in my situation. Is there a cure for this? I would like her to have full range capabilities. Thanks.

Quicktifier There is one user on here that uses this and i have searched and found no comparison to the before and after results of this device installed on a vehicle. Basically, it's main purpose is to make your alternator more efficient under load or stress. When the alt is getting hot, this will help to prevent loss of output as much. Whereas i've also been trying to find direct results of alt failure, #1 being directed to heat which in turn #1 part to fail is the Bridge rectifier. So... this is where i'm at right now. Time + Current = heat you can run hundreds or even thousands of amps for a couple seconds off a stock alternator as long as it doesnt heat up so fast i…

Are they any good? The ones in question are the GD-6001 and AP-3001. Do they do rated power? How durable are they? How is the build quality and reliabity? I know that the GD-6001 is CEA Compliant so it should do rated if not more but I am worried about the quality of the amps. I want first hand experience not what people have heard. Thanks in advance for the feedback.

well i have everything hookedup and when my amp wont turn on, my remote wire power grounds, all connected to my back battery, as of now i got my stinger voltmeter working but thats it, it only works when the power and the remote wire are hooked together, and then the remote wire to the amp, thats only when it turns on but if i take out my voltmeter amp doesnt turn on, anyone know how to solve my problem dont have have to keep removing my remote wire, to have to turn off my amp and turn it back on as well also my aq gets hot pretty much imo. any help will be nice, i kow its kinda of a mess if you guys want me to explain it better i will

I have a 2000 Bmw 528i, I've been looking all over the net for a ho alternator and I cannot find any. Does anyone know of any top notch companies that make or custom make h.o. alternators for bmws? excluding nations alts and power bastards.

lookie here!! hehe..i want at least 2!!! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Hey guys, I've got 0 gauge wire running the length of my vehicle, but my amp accepts up to 4. I slapped on some reducers and realized they were too close for comfort, so I heat shrink tubed each post. Although they're on there very solidly, they're still sketching me out a bit. What do you guys think? Should I go for some distribution blocks or something instead? Been a pain in the rear. Running ~1500w Pics:

Ok so I am really good at buying stuff and then finding out it isn't as great as I expected.. and then have to sell and re-buy something better... SO Please help me get the right amp the first time! The SA-10s are rated at 600rms each, Im sticking 4 in my hatchback and want to get a good amp to meet them. They are d2 and will wire down to 1ohm! I have seen people stick a SAZ-2000 or AQ 2200 on 2 SA-10s... But I want to know if they can seriously handle that much? I mean 600x4=2,400w but if they can HONESTLY handle more I will try to find a way to get a more powerful amp.. YOU guys have used these and know what they throw down, I have never used any sundown sub before an…

I got a 9885 a week ago and was installing today. It's going into a 86 Mercedes so I connected everything temporarily to make sure the wiring was correct. After setting it up and running it for about 10 minuets the rear heat sink was to hot to touch. Normal? If not what might be causing this or do I need to return to BB?

hey guys, im looking for the best headunit for the best price. im looking into either alpine or pioneer. i want gps navigation, touchscreen, dvd player,equalizer, and most importantly...SOUND QUALITY! money isnt the issue but can someone please list specific HU's that consist of these features at the lowest cost??? anything under $800 is fine

I'm wondering what most people use for a good quality front stage. The amp I'm currently using is a TMA T320.4 (JL company). It does the following: 60W x 4 @ 4 ohm 80W x 4 @ 2 ohm 160W x 2 @ 4ohm (bridged) Speakers used in conjunction with: 6.5" CDT Audio ES-620, rated for 150W @ 4ohm I just picked up a SAZ-1000D and a 12" Fi Q and these will be running together. This leaves the TMA to run my front stage solely. I'm worried about bridging the amp because its a pretty cheap amp, and I figure it'll be toast within a year or so if I bridge (if that). Also, the power isn't terribly clean as its a cheap brand amp, though the quality is good (I'm running 60W x 4 out of jus…

my setup will be a 3way setup for my front stage consisting of; 8"(undecided) in doors 4" CDT gold 2way set in kicks 12" iCONs in trunk HU is kenwood DDX7017 (somethin like that) amps will all be kicker(undecided on models) so my question is; is the KX3 3-way active crossover from kicker a good option? if not what would be better? im debating on also putting a set of some 6.5 midbass drivers in the panel next to my door for a bit of rear fill, i know its not most peoples taste, but my 3way setup is worrying me about missing some fill. if i decided to use those rears would u just use the 2way crossover as well as the 3way for the front? is there anything im missing? thank…