Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

does the remote on the rockford fosgate t1500.1bd useful, or should i avoid it, and if possible, can u tune it or adjust it, like a gain knob thanks

Since a week or two, my Pioneer head unit has some problems. Sometimes the "face" doesn't respond, as if there is no power to it. It can happen with the music playing or with the h u off. If I unplug and the plug in the car fuse for the h u, eveything starts working again. If I press the reset button on the h u it starts working again, but I loose some settings. Do you know (or understand) what is happening ? Can it be a simple fix, or will I need to buy another h u ? Please help !!!

Okay let's say I buy an alt from a company and I'm not happy with the performance (idle output) of the alt can I send it to a different company and have them make it basically one of their alternators?

Hey I'm looking at upgrading my stock alternator to a 160 amp alternator. I want to run 1500 watts rms. I have a kinetik 2000 under my hood and 1/0 big 3. Is this electrical safe to run 1500 watts? I don't want to spend too much money and Im wondering if the 160 amp alternator is enough to power 1500 watts rms. Thanks guys. Project coming soon

I'll start by listing all the equipment used in the vehicle (2008 Dodge Caliber) and say that all of this has been installed and working fine for months until tonight. Starting up front, we have a 230amp DC alt, hooked to a factory replacement Duralast battery under the hood and the big 3 in 1/0. There's a fused power wire running from said under hood Duralast to Kinetik 1400 in the back near the amplifier, then on to the amplifier which is a Hifonics bxi1606D wired to 1 ohm. This amp is powering a pair of D4 Skar VVX12s. Now on to the problem, tonight we started the car and immediately noticed a sound/noise coming from inside the amplifier on the power/ground/speaker ter…

I bought a KICKER 11VS12L72 ("that box has a dual 4 woofer wired down to a 2 ohm load. So you want an amp that is 2 Ohm stable") And I'm trying to find recommendations from the experts for an amp. I am leaning towards the SoundStream DTR1.1700D that is on a sale for $188 online. Might buy it tonight if I don't find anything better.

ok so i kknow atleast for my vechile 01 gmc sierra that the dual alt brakcets are pretty simple design.. cant fathom spending 200plus dollar for a piece of cnc cut 3/8 steel. so basically was wondering if anyone has made their own dual alt brackets, who all sell dual alt brakcets?

Im mainly looking at the Alpine 7998 and 7995. Both units are deadhead units. Are they made with higher quality parts since there is no internal amplifier? Do they have better sound? I know the 7998 is going to have the advantage because it has better time alignment and better eq options. But just wanting the opinion of guys that have experience with older alpine units. Im also looking at the 7897, its not a deadhead deck put I hear its also extremely nice. Any opinions?

My amp is going in to protect like 20-22 seconds in the song and is not even getting warm..Anyone know what that could be

Alright I know I havent posted anything on here in a while but let me bounce and idea off of you guys... I bought a d3100 recently and upgraded my grounds and I am about 13.9v on full bore depending on my rpms. Now I am pushing a dc lvl 5 15" on a SAZ-3500D. My question is - do I buy another 3500D and put 7k watts (not sure what clamped would be) on it? Its a d2 woofer so I think its possible to wire it down to 1 ohm using 2 amps.. My other idea would be to get rid of the 15 and get 2 dc lvl 5 12s and another 3500D. In order to power both my ideas I would need another 3500D (or sell it and get one massive amp) and another 3100. Oh and I also have a 200 amp alty with the …

ok my brother is doing an spl build (one sound stream xxx-15 quad 1.2ohm coils) and we have a bugit of $600-$800 for amps and we want around 7k-8k in wattage and we were thinking 4 of these http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-Hfi2000d-Amplifier-Designed-Dissipation/dp/B003PSAQXA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_1 or 2 of these http://infiniteelectronix.com/soundstreamdtr13400dd-tower3400wattrms5ohmclassdmonosubwooferamplifier.aspx or this http://www.amazon.com/Lanzar-OPTI8000D-Optidrive-Competition-Amplifier/dp/B0037YZLMS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1311341969&sr=8-1 what do yall think for price and rms watts which one

http://www.keyrazyleds.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=62&category_id=7&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=30 it just a 12volt remote box with a wireless remote, i would like to know if i can use this on my amps? because it is original use for led light, but it just looks like its only input and out system so input do i put + and - of my back batteries? and ouput i put my + and - from my amp terminals? also do you think it will be fine if i add a stinger volt meter and another amp to the same box? (2saz3500's strapped voltmeter and maybe a 100.4)

What type of amp should i get to run two skar audio vvx 12" dual 2ohm vc. I'm thinking two Hifonics hf 2000d's one on each sub. My limit it $500 for a good quality amp that does either 3000+ watts at 1ohm or .5ohm. I want .5ohms stable

Hi I am wondering if I should do the big 3 even though I'm not replacing my alternator. I have a 2005 Chevy 2500. I dont know my stock alternator's specs but I'm sure it can't be high. Should I do the big 3? I'm going to get either a kinetik 1800 or 2000 to put under my hood and I plan on running about 1200watts rms. If I do the big 3 should I use 4awg or 1/0awg? I don't know but I think 1/0 should be necessary of my alternator is stock.. But I dont know much either lol.

Last time i knew the majority of JL Audio amps were made in China with the slash series being made in Korea has this changed? The reason is on another forum there are people that are convinced they are made in miramar florida.

im looking on getting an audiopipe amp because money is tight for me right now. but i want to know what the difference is between the ap and aqx series. both do rated?

my friend has a option blue top would that work for a main starter batt

i will be running 2 sa-12 d4s need help on what amp i should get both seem realy good !! i can get a refurb sundown for 320 shipped or i can get a crescendo bc2000 new for 339 i like the fact that the cresendo is new and i love the color scheme but on the other hand i think the sundown will put out a little more please help !!! i no i have been a pain lol keep changing my mind over and over and have been talking about doing a system for a while but i have one sundown already the other will be here thursday and like i said im ordering my amp tomorrow just want to make sure theres not something im missing i think i would be happy either way its going to be an upgrade…

just wondering how many runs of 0ga power wire will i need for my system it will be in my 97 expedititon it will have either 4 rockford fosgate amps or 5 sundown amps... fosgate wise 2 2500bds and a 1000.4 and a 400.2 ....and sundown 2 2500ds and 3 125.2s.... batts will be 4 xs power d3100 and a ho 270 amp alt. im only askin sence it has been so long and all my systems till now have never needed more than 1 run of 0ga wire

I just secured a 100.4 and 125.2 for an awesome deal and had a few questions, basically to solidify my purchase decision. I was hoping to use the 100.4 for an active front stage 2 way comps. Use 125.2 to run a sa8 in a .75 ported box. I feel the amps are up to those tasks without a secondary processor for the comps and the single 8 should be healthy on the 125.2 @ 2 ohms. Feedback, and suggestions on comp sets and headunits would be welcome as I'm still juggling a few ideas around. Thanks Lymen

Okay, so I just hooked up all of my system last night. It worked flawlessly all last night, and this morning. So today, after work, I got in my car, turned on my radio, and my amp and everything turned on and my sub was playing, but I now have no music. At all. I know this is probably a n00b thread, but please help! I'm dying without my sub lol

So did it? tell what you have for electrical as well I have a DB electrical 250a alt, big three XS power d3100, SAZ-3500d Basically, my question is according to your experiences, will multiple runs help me?

I found this California profile crossover from my first system....is it worth installing? it was working when my system was stolen

I plan on upgrading my battery (kinetik 1400) I want something a little bit bigger, enough to power about 1200watts rms easy. I am on a budget and see that the shuriken batteries are a little bit cheaper than optima, kinetik, and xs power. For you shuriken users, are they good batteries? ive read reviews saying they are awesome and just as good but if so why isnt everyone buying shurikens? It just sounds too good to be true. I am looking at a shuriken sk-bt1000 it's 100AH and 2250 crank amps and $225 way cheaper than the other batteries at same numbers. I'd like to know if this battery is long lasting and worth it or should I go with other brands? Don't want to waste any …

Lately its been real hot here...over 100 several times. I park my Tahoe outside in the heat and usualy only drive it on the weekends. I have an SAZ1500D. After its been sitting for a few days ill hop in there and the bass seems to be all the way up.(As if the gain knob is all the way up). Ill unplug the cable at the knob and nothing changes, I'll go to the back and disconnect it at the amp and it lowers itself back down allowing me to control it again. Real strange to me and it has only started happening since this damn heat has hit. Any idea's? I would like to think its something wrong with the knob/wire but who knows. Edit: it is a very random thing, it doesn't do this …