Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Ok I am about to work on the charging system now and need some ideas. I have upgraded the alternator to 220 and still need to change the three wires. I will be running a few batteries in the back of the car that are different from the cars battery. I am using a stinger master for the car now and have 3 SVR80 in the car for the system I do have a 15f cap as well but not sure if I need to use it. Can someone help me out here a little so I get this done right. Thanks PT

ok so when i first turn my car on my volts are usually 14.2 when im not even playin my sub or have my ac on it slowly drops to 13.5 and sits there. then the rest of the day i never see 14s again i had my alt checked and its fine so i have no idea wat it is. any ideas?

So i won't be in town for a couple of weeks and my bro will be driving my car... Him being in HS i know he will try to impress his friends, I specifically told him not to go above 30/35 on the H/U..... didn't tell him about the gain b/c i know he will try to turn it up if I told him I turned it down for hiim... To protect my sub I turned the sub amp gain all the way down today, but can still get some bass at full tilt, where is this power coming from? H/U? I thought turning the gain all the way down will= no power? also is it okay to keep the gain all the way down and play at full tilt? no clipping issues right? I understand the amp wont be clipping but what about the…

Ok my friend has a type s in a ported box and a type r in a sealed box, both are prefab and both D4. He was told that the amp he has which is the Legacy LA1990 was $400 but he said he had no idea what kind of amp it was or even the name of it. i found it online and its more like a $100 amp, But im confused about the rms some websites are giving it. All i can find is 2×1000 output 1×2000 bridged output, 2×175 output 2×260 bridged and something like 0.04×1000 output. Now he told me about 2 weeks ago he had it wired at 4 ohms than yesterday he told me he had it bridged. He honestly thought he was running more than 1000watts and after i told him his amp was probably only 400 …

hello, i recently got 2 alpine type r's professionally installed in my trunk with a kicker 1000.1 mono amp. It was blasting nd bumping for about 2 weeks then i realized that they needed to be mounted because they moved around too much. I got them mounted and they started to make a strange noise. I took it to the installed nd they "fixed" it by fixing the ground substance or whatever....I turned the car on and the noise is still there. I took out the "phone line wire" from the amp and it still makes the noise, the installer said it was probably something wrong with the amp but im not too sure... the subs make a loud croaking nd buzzing sound even when i have them set at 0.…

I just recently got a pair of DC Level 4 18's for my 2007 Suburban. Now I want to try and focus on my front stage. I'm not looking for competition SQ here, just something that will be on par with the 18's until I turn the bass knob up. I'm mostly listen to rap and R&B, but I've been known to listen to all types of music. It common for me to listen to Project Pat and then turn around a play some Hall and Oats, or Phil Collins. That's just how I roll. It also doesn't help working with a co-worker who doesn't listen to music pass 1990. At first I was thinking about going with an active 3 way setup using some raw drivers from partsexpress.com. You know maybe a pair of Da…

Well, I've been looking for a ho alt for my brother's Caliber and so far, the only company that has said they can/will build one is Excessive Amperage. I was wondering if anyone here had any experience at all with them. Nathan said he would build me a 200a unit that will do approx. 130 at idle. He also said that the alt is controlled by the car's computer and suggested I also purchase an adjustable external regulator from him for another $135. I'm not sure I need the regulator as we don't ever plan on running at higher voltage. Any input is very appreciated.

i plan on purchasing my HU and ICONS in the next 3-4 weeks. I still havent been able to find an Amp on my budget that will power my subs. I am trying to give them the 300w they are rated at. I am looking for an amp for around $150-$250. Thanks in advance guys, If you have any questions I will do my best to answer them.

I was all set to buy an Alpine PDX-4.100 for the front stage and a Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000-bd for my sub. Then I read some more about amps and i really like the feaetures on the JL audio stuff, specifically, that their amps put out consistent power at any impedance between 1.5 and 4 ohms and at any voltage between 11 and 14.4 volts. This seems to be worht the extra cash outlay. Also, I am well aware of the quality of JL products. My question: Is JL the only company that makes amps that will put out a consistent power across ohms and with different voltages? In my research, I was unable to find any other amps that did this. Thanks for your help. In case it …

Hey guys i was recommend here by denim. Be patient i don't know much about stereos, i'm a motor guy. Here's my situation, my explorer has an xtant 3300x powering then entire stereo system. It burned out about 3 weeks ago, supposidly a shop is fixing it, but they say they are having trouble getting parts. I'm growing impatient because i have nothing at all, because i have a non powered eclipse head unit. I'd like to replace it with a xtant 603, but at the moment even a refurbished one is a little much for my budget. Could i get away with using a xtant 403 to power the whole thing? Pics of the stereo are on the second or third page of my cardomain in my sig. I have a do…

OK I got an LED rocker switch from O'reillys to turn h/u on and off on the powerwheels like an ignition. If I hook up the wire from my fuse block to the hot side and the load wire to either other post I get the led but no h/u. If I hook up all 3 posts (pos,load,neg) I blow a fuse as soon as I flip the switch. I don't know if running the red and yellow wire together causes to much draw, or if the ground isnt really a ground? But I'm confused and slightly annoyed...

Im looking for a component set. with the addition of this 18" BTL its damn near impossible to hear high end over the bass this thing outputs.. I went to some stereo shops to see some products up close.. saw a set of the Fosgate power 6.5's.. has the driver, tweeter and crossover network.. price in store is crazy, but found the same set on the internet alot cheaper. Im concerned how they hook up as ive never had a pair of components before. Do you just use 1 channel of your amp per door.. Let me explain what i mean more.. go here My link see how the crossover box has 2 inputs and 2 outputs.. i just got done running all new wire to each door to a 4 ch amp.. will i have to c…

JUST PURCHASED A NEW 1200D.HAD IT INSTALLED,PLAYED WELL FOR 3 DAYS.AND THE OTHER DAY,I GOT IN MY CAR,STARTED UP,TURNED MY HU ON,THE BLUE LIGHT LIT UP AND TURNED BACK OFF.WENT TO MY TRUNK,AND THE AMP WAS IN PROTECT.FIRST THING I DONE WAS DISCONNECTED MY RCA'S AND SPEAKER WIRES(STILL IN PROTECT)CHECKED MY GROUNDS(THEY WERE CLEAN AND TIGHT)CHECKED MY B+ AND GND(14.2V)CHECKED FUSES(NONE BLOWN)ALL WIRING SEEMS TO BE FINE.I CHECKED EVERYTHING FROM THE BATTERY TO THE AMP(HU INCLUDED)............ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEA WHAT MAY BE THE ISSUE?

I have a 1992 buick century custom with a 3.3l v6 and it has a delco stock alternator, and it already has the Big 3 installed and my lights dim really badly now that I hooked up the xcon today, my last sub was 1000rms now im doing 1600rms on the amp, and my cars electrical hates it. I can here the bass distort whenever the voltage needle dips. So I was looking for a cheap upgrade since this is only gonna be my car for less than a year. I found a rebuild kit to upgrade a delco cs130 alternator to 180 amps, which the cs130 is what replaces this alternator if i go to autozone, but i'm not sure if thats whats in it now. I know its a delco but I don't know where to look for a …

So I have a Bad Deka Intimidator which Looks brand new but won't take a charge or go any higher than aprox 4v, what could I do if anything.. OR are there any places that will fix batteries if you can lol.

So... I got bored today and decided to write up equations for amplifiers, like loss, power with efficiency, how to find how efficient it is. basically, a variation of ohms law. as we all know, (V)olts * (A)mps equals (P)ower (V*A=P) but, in amplifier circuitry, this cant be used because amps have their own loss. so lets say our imaginary amplifier is 160A, running off 10.65 Vs, and has an effieciency of 77%. it'll push out around 1312.08 Watts. now to find each number, we use these numbers to find them. Basically, 1312.08W / 10.65V = 123.2a - 160a = 36.8 amps of current lost in the amplifier, 36.8 / 160 = .23, subtract that from 1 and we get .77. simple. I'm quite sure al…

Hello folks My first time doing this so bare with me please. Now I have an old school ss granite 180.6 someone who actually knows these amps and what they can do lets talk ....

i just bought a new car...well new to me, a 2008 pontiac g6 and plan on starting my audio system real soon, the obvious first thing to upgrade is the radio. i went to crutchfield (i buy all my head units from them as they usually make it simple and include everything you need, usually for free) im a little confused on what i need to buy on this one though, this car has the oil life, fuel mileage and all that stuff built into the radio so i would need a special kit to retain all of that, which i definatly want. the link to that is http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120993303/Chevy-Pontiac-Adapter-Package.html now when i added my head unit to my cart, it suggested i add this al…

Okay, i've been reading up on head units for quite some time, some of you know this from older threads. I was going to go with the flip out they have, but then decided not too because of the bad reviews i've read. Then i was going with the iDA-X305S Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. but i don't/won't use Pandora, and it seems without it.. it's useless Let me know if you run it and don't use Pandora, tell me how it is. BUT, now i'm planning on the IDA-X303 Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. because it's not all about Pandora. Does anyone on here run this head unit? If so, how do you like it? I only use my Itouch for music, no CDs.. keep that in mind. Side note, check …

yeah, so today after work, i installed all my 0 gauge wiring from that 5 gauge that was in there before. i also went from the little 60 amp fuse under the hood to a 250 amp fuse. now before the switch, everything sounded good. nice stead, clean bass. but ever since i put in the 0 gauge wire, it gets louder, then softer and loud again and doesnt sound very clean. i messed with the setting on the amp to see if anything had changed and still got the same results. any ideas on what this could be? i also installed new RCA's if that matters.

Whats up SSA Forums, Im looking to replace the alternator on my 2002 BMW 530 ASAP with an HO Alternator. My search online and in person has not been too good, so i was wondering if any of you guys could refer me to a person, website, or shop if it's close to the Raleigh/Durham area in North Carolina. Thanks

Is it possible to wire four 4 ohm dvc subs to a 2 channel amp, with each channel seeing 2 ohms? I have them running at four ohms, but can you use series and parallel wiring to create this load? If I set each sub in parallel wiring (+ to + and - to -, right?)and then run the - from one channel to one sub, the positive from that channel to the other sub, and a wire connecting the other + and - terminals from sub to sub, would this do it? Here's what I'm talking about. (pic may not work) Just hooked up these subs, but they sound distorted and just terrible, will they sound better after they break in, or just lower/louder? Replaced 4 RF P1 12's with 4 infinity 1252w's, a…

Hi, I want to know how exactly can I measure the exact amount of RMS wattage output my amplifier is delivering to the subwoofer, reason asking is because my amplifier is too powerful for my current subwoofer and I will limit my amplifier to the maximum Rms power handling of my subwoofer, Thank you.

http://www.dealercostcaraudio.com/P1000.1.aspx Crunch, isn't that the same brand as hifonics? 1 Channel operation RMS Power @ 1 Ohm: 1000W x 1 RMS Power @ 2 Ohm: 500W x 1 RMS Power @ 4 Ohm: 250W x 1 Mono-Block A/B class amplifier topography MOSFET outputs Illuminated Crunch logo PWM digital power supply Fully adjustable crossovers, Hi-Pass and Low-Pass Silver RCA line inputs & outputs - permit amplifier daisy-chaining Silver power connections for $149.00

I bought my Alpine CDE 9881 from a pawn shop for 50 bucks back when I had my old car and I recently got a nissan maxima. One thing I rly hate, this headunit has no aux in front or USB and most important, it doesnt work with a steering wheel adaptor. I have had a few people offer me $65 for it (is that a decent price?) and I think I might sell it and get something a little better. I know crutchfield is usually over priced but their headunits seems fairly priced, especially since they give you all the install stuff and save me around 30 bucks. I'm not going to do much with this headunit, just listen to music on my ipod. Idk how to tune, etc. I'm also running a passive setup…