Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Alpine PXA-H701 w/RUX-C701 vs. AudioControl DQXS w/DDC

Alright mono block it is! I dont know what was happening before but everything is fixed now. I think a 3500D should be enough (for now) to power BLs sufficiently.

welp guys... I was lookin at the batcap 800 for my friends Integra Couple of reasons im considering this over a group 51 Yellow Top it has WAY MORE CCA Its lighter and it costs the same Also, its black, so it doesnt draw attention like a Yellow Top would Only problem i can see is RC, the stocker is 70m The Yellow top is 75m But Batcap doesnt list any sort of RC on the 800

The new SAX 200.4 makes me feel like everything I ever bought has been wasted money! I hope this isnt going to be considered spam. But I just had to SCREAM IT AT THE TOP OF MY LUNGS! Come to me SAX 200.4 . Unbelieveable. Just had to tell someone.

I recently purchased a fi bl 15 with the cooling option and was wondering what might be a good amp for it thats under 300 shipped. I was looking into the audioque 1200 but it seems as if not many people have experience with them. All sugestions are welcome. The sub is a dual 2 ohm and going into a ported enclosure around 3.5 cuft(tuning suggestions welcome as well) maybe bigger if i can fit it, theres not too much trunk room in my saturn sc2.

I recently purchased a 12 inch dcon and was wondering if it would benefit from a class A/B amp or if I should just buy a class D. What do you guys think?

Ive searched ca.com ive searched here a little bit and i even asked a dedicated forum for my car but i have a 2000 toyota camry with a 2.2l and im trying to do the big 3 on it. But with all the wires in wire loom and such However doing it is alot harder than my s10. So my question is can i just add 0gauge wire and not mess with the stock wiring? Or is this a no go? Reason i thought i could do it is becauase i see alot of you guys run multiple strands on 0 gauge instead of just one strand. Any help would be great.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ssPageName=WDVW to power my new ia 187s wonder if it could handle a .5 ohm load... or maybe this ma audio http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...5744820550&rd=1

well i toke my deck out the other day and when i put it back in iv got this nasty buzz like real nasty and it will change with engine rpm and there is also a bit of "engine wine" but the buzz is much louder and the really weired thing is if i change source or change channel or if i turn the volume from 0 to1 or from 1 to 0 i get a nasty thump kinda like a turn on thump but louder. I checked my amps grounds and they seam to be fine i was thinking maybe its my deck's grounds or maybe i broke a ground strap somewhere in the car im going to try changing them tomorrow my day off. And i also tried a different deck and it does the same thing but they are both pioneers and i hear…

we installed my single din headunit yesterday and im getting the movie playing through the speakers but not the actual video showing,could we have just missed a connection in the back?thanks for any information...

Apparently Phoenix Gold is coming out with a High Current Amplifier Performance Auto and Sound - The Girls - The Cars - The Life - Phoenix Gold �THE ONE�

Finally listened to you all and got a cheap charger at Walmart, 6A charge maintainer, microprocessor controlled, 72W 6amp fast charge 4A medium and 2amp slow 6V/12V automatic. Hooked it up and let it sit over night. In the AM the remote unlock didnt work so I knew it wasnt charged. Looked at the charger and it said full charge. I unplugged it and tried to start it, dead. Reconnected, put back to fast charge, it started...the fan revved higher and higher then shut off. I unplugged and reset, put on slow charge, fan stayed low reve so I left it for 2 hours. Came back, said full charge, but was dead. Gonna take the cheapie back today

hello, i recently got 2 alpine type r's professionally installed in my trunk with a kicker 1000.1 mono amp. It was blasting nd bumping for about 2 weeks then i realized that they needed to be mounted because they moved around too much. I got them mounted and they started to make a strange noise. I took it to the installed nd they "fixed" it by fixing the ground substance or whatever....I turned the car on and the noise is still there. I took out the "phone line wire" from the amp and it still makes the noise, the installer said it was probably something wrong with the amp but im not too sure... the subs make a loud croaking nd buzzing sound even when i have them set at 0.…

I have a '97 Grand Prix with a 220amp alt. and a 1.5v booster on it. I have a SAZ3500D BNIB, and will be picking up my 15" SMD in a week. I already ran the big 3 with 0 gauge and 2 runs of pos. & neg. to the back. Now I am looking at atlernators, should I get a 300+ alternator or can I run another 220amp alt. ? I can get another stock rebuilt to 220amps for about $200 and I know a couple welders that want to build a dual bracket, they are hard to find for a 3.8 V6, as are 300amp alts.. If I do get a 300a alt can I get by with just that one? And what are some suggested batteries for each setup? THANK YALL FOR YOU INPUT! I did try to search for my answer...

So I currently have a d2 icon wired to one ohm in a ported box running off at sundown sae 1200 v2. I also have 2 fi ssds d1(s), I built a sealed box for them and wired them in parallel; on the dmm it reads .7 ohms. My vehicle is a buick lesabre which has 130 amp alt. With the icon my electrical is great, the lowest i see is 14.0 (13.8 or so with the a/c on) at full tilt while at a stop light or something. I put the fi's in, a direct swap. I left the amp setting the same. My voltage is horrible, dropping into the 12s at full tilt at highway speeds. So i turned down the gain, pretty much a 1/4 turn back and my voltage is just as bad. My lights flicker horribly and the volta…

I've been looking around for a good 4 channel amplifier that cost some where around 350 or less that has a small foot print I was hoping to hide it. I have looked at the rockford fosgate pbr 300.4 was wondering if anyone had any experience with these? Or if anyone has had any other amps that are on the smaller side I would like to hear some other options as well. Also I was wondering if anyone could tell me where I could find some info on the little soundigital 250.2 I tried emailing them and messaging a soundigital rep on the smd website and got no replies. Was thinking of maybe getting 2 of those for running a set of comps. could definitely hide those somewhere.

I currently have 2 Kinetik HC2000's in my Tahoe, one under the hood, one under the back seat maybe 15" of power cable away from the amp. Have a db-starter-aternator 220A alternator (which for some reason i cant locate the one i bought from them.. maybe they stopped selling it? lol) It listed it makes its power at like 1200 RPM or something.. should have never bought it.. but thats what I have, I took the voltage meter outside today and looked at both battery's.. Car not started in over 24 hours the battery under the hood was sitting at 12.6 with the vehicle off.. back battery at 12.5. turned the vehicle on which had the rpms at like 1300 or so since it wasnt warmed up.. s…

no more star trek >>> http://www.precisionpower.com/amps/a1000-2.asp

Ok. I plan on putting 2 15" orion hcca subs in my car and would like to know a few things. I have 2 orion 25001d class amps for each and want to put only 2000 watts into each. So how many amps does my alternator needs to be and do i need more than one? And whats the best type of audio battery to use for under the hood and in the trunk? Thanks.

Ok so i got my aa-3,800.1 this is my first system where i will need to upgrade my electrical.. i dont have to much more money i can play with so what will i deff need to power this amp? i will be pushing two 12 DSS Ethos.. and i have a alpine 4 channel for highs... not trying to half ass it but i dont have much doe i can spend.. i have asked a few people but i get differnt answers... so what do u guys think ill deff need?

i was playing around with my headunit(pioneer 860mp) and switched some things that made it hit the hardest of ever!!! but i took my magnum out and looked at the coil and it looked brand new un harmed!!!(even with me turning the gain a little higher than the head units voltage) i have a bx1500d i think that i want to step up to a bx1800d or an audiobahn 1800dt will i notice it? audiobahn vs hifonics amp wise or is tunsumi a good amp?

hi, i was wondering if a sax 100.4 could withstand 1.33 ohms or 2 ohms in bridged stereo mode. my plan was to initially run 4 sets of components off each channel, but due to space limitations that i've decided i can't be bothered worrying about and the fact that the speakers will be underpowered i've decided to run 3 sets. if 1.33 will kill it, will 2 ohms be ok? the manual says to use 4 ohms in bridged stereo mode but my current amplifiers are cheapies off ebay which are running 2 ohms in bridged stereo and haven't had any problems. thanks

Cant decide which amp to get for a 10" Fi Bl with BP Power and Flatwind coil. It will be ported @ 33Hz under the rear seats of a ford f150

I drew out a little wiring diagram(yes i know it's crappy cause it's offa ms paint) for connecting RCA jacks off the HU for my planned system. In the front, the RE XXX woofer will be run off of a 2 channel amp and the tweets will be run off of two channels of the 4 channel amp. The rear midbass(Adire Koda 6.5) will be run off of the rear channel of the 4 channel amp. Crossover duty will be done by the HU(plan to get an Eclipse) and the 4 channel amp. Does that look right? or do i need something extra?

Which one of these will be more powerful? I have two scv4k's going on three tridents but I have a feeling I'll need/want more power for those.