Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical
Discuss Head Units, Amplification, Processors, And All Electrical System Inquiries Here.
5,712 topics in this forum
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Ok i shoulda took pics, but hey.. So i have it hooked up @.5 ohms and well yea this system is alot louder than my PA3000db. but i have a slight problem, i'm guessing its an electrical issue, but... I can only turn the system up so far before a big bass note hits and its like the amp goes into protect and then comes right back on, say 2 secs later. SO is it wiring or electric? I'm going to hook the battery charger up to my car to check but any ideas? IT wangs dont get me wrong, but i just cant turn it up louder than a certain point..
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pretty much like the topic says i just want some opinions how many batts should you run on 2 SAZ-3000d's with a 225amp alt ?
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Pioneer Premier P880 PRS, easily the highest end deck i've ever bought. 24bit dac's, l/r seperate eq's, 5v outputs, a ton of xvoer points. here are some pics.... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures.php?id=6822
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Okay so im hooking up my new system and i dont know what to get for my fuses or my distribution block. Im going to run 3 amps connected to a powermaster D1200 battery. An alpine 650 mono, 2 channel Rockford punch 550x2, and a Sundown SAE 1200D. What distribution blocks would work? Fuses? Gauge sizes? How would i hook up the battery to the amps and other battery? Anyway, any help will help. Thanks everybody.
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With the Alpine cda-117 do you have to buy the H100 imprint to use the deck active? If so can someone with this set up give some imfo or review.
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believe me i know this is a stupid question but i had an argument with a guy from a mechanics shop and he doesnt believe me: if you have 2 DVC 1 ohm subs wired in series then together to come to a 1 ohm load and run that to a monoblock amp that is rated at 1600 watts rms @ 1 ohm, does that mean each sub gets 800 watts each or do they both get 1600 watts?
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The new SAX 200.4 makes me feel like everything I ever bought has been wasted money! I hope this isnt going to be considered spam. But I just had to SCREAM IT AT THE TOP OF MY LUNGS! Come to me SAX 200.4 . Unbelieveable. Just had to tell someone.
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Ok I'm not that good at this but have a newer amp with 6 chips on the PS sink. Seems to be two transformers and 3 fets each, the output is on other side of chassis. Well the 3rd and 6th one are shorted pos to neg and blew the +12v trace. If shorted then they must be bad, the rest are near same ohms and not on/shorted at rest and all same # chips. Anyway, can I just replace them....what would cause this to happen? Would something else be shot too? They are $15 each so far I've found. Yes this is a junk explode amp, but might as well see what I can do its like new otherwise and 500wx1rms so not bad. I've been told not to substitute parts on new amps, have no idea what was d…
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Kinda new to this but just need an idea as to what I need to upgrade on my truck to run my 4 15s 600 watts rms 1200 max I got a 3k amp coming and 0 gauge wire my truck is a diesel so it already has 2 batties and a 110 amp alternator from the factory. I just want to make sure I don't have to worry about power loose. Anything helps thanks.
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I've searched here and there, been to the12volt, etc etc etc. I'm still a little bit confused on how exactly to wire three amps with one remote wire. I've photochopped something from the12volt to illustrate my issue. Not much of a photoshop, but you get the idea. The question is this: Do I splice each remote wire from the three amps into the same single wire coming from the relay? Thanks for any advice.
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sorta noob question but ive never had this particular predicament before Would it be ok to run 4 awg from the ground on the batt to my amp and run 1/0 from the+ batt to a distro to my amp. i know the ground and power have to be the same awg when putting them into a amp. my car has a very poor ground in the trunk and this option will save me some money an time until i can get more 1/0 to run from the front to the back. my amp has 4 awg inputs so would i be ok doing this since i would be using both 4awg for ground and power. i do plan on upgrading the the gound to 1/0 since im goin to add a few batts but this is only temp for maybe a month.
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whats up ssa i have a little problem i have two jl audio amps 500x1 mono there suppose to be hook on each sub i have 2 kicker l7 15 2ohm now my problem is im trying to strap them together i thought i follow all of the directions its just missin something feels like a lack of power now i did have these hook up not to long ago then i switch over to us amps which i love but i had to send one in for repair so i put the jls back in until my us comes back now keep in my mind everything is brand new so i dont know what i hook up wrong i need help bad because i miss my bass so if anyone has diagrams or knows how to hook these up propley i greatly appreciate it. thanks Mr crown
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So I'm starting on my front stage. Finally got a car. It's a 98 camry. I'm trying to find a decent head unit but I'm not trying to spend 300 bucks on one. Any recommendations? I used to have a boss and Jenson but they would freeze when I turned my subs on I'm not putting any subs in the vehicle not until I got a little more money.
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Whats up SSA Forums, Im looking to replace the alternator on my 2002 BMW 530 ASAP with an HO Alternator. My search online and in person has not been too good, so i was wondering if any of you guys could refer me to a person, website, or shop if it's close to the Raleigh/Durham area in North Carolina. Thanks
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So I have a delima. I have a Chevy Sonic and the stock alternator is only 100 amps. I cannot find an upgrade for it nor can I find anyone that can rebuild it to have higher output. My question is, what can I do to upgrade it? I have already done the big 3 and upgraded the stock battery. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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So tonite I set my gain and ssf according to the thread on here. Only questions are, when getting rms for 2 zcon's, do I add both together, or just what amp says. Amp is a saz2500d. 1 ohm says 2500 rms. square root is 50. Set amp output to 50 vac. Then took 50*.707=35.35. Turned ssf up till voltage dropped to 35vac. Questions are, is that correct? Or do I then readjust gain back up to 50?
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I was wondering how good his amp would be http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13492_...SC+1000.1.html# Ive never really used the MB quart amps, I see it is made by MaxxSonics though
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I got a brand new aq1200d and after i wired everything up the amp has power and has plenty of it, getting almost 14 volts while the car is running, but there is no signal getting sent out from the amp. Ive tested it with a known good rca cable and even used an ipod to eliminate the head unit but still no sound. I don't know what to check now. The amp is not going into protected mode. Going to call audioque 2night after class and see if they have any input. any advise before i go crazy lol
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I've been looking around for a good 4 channel amplifier that cost some where around 350 or less that has a small foot print I was hoping to hide it. I have looked at the rockford fosgate pbr 300.4 was wondering if anyone had any experience with these? Or if anyone has had any other amps that are on the smaller side I would like to hear some other options as well. Also I was wondering if anyone could tell me where I could find some info on the little soundigital 250.2 I tried emailing them and messaging a soundigital rep on the smd website and got no replies. Was thinking of maybe getting 2 of those for running a set of comps. could definitely hide those somewhere.
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so when i put my latest head unit into my car, i left a cd in my old unit, and i have been trying to get it out. i have a power supply that i plan to hook up to it, but i can't figure out where to hook my wires up to, so i need a diagram to find out where to hook my positive and negative leads....any one know where i can get a diagram? the unit is a Clarion ProAudio DRX6375. i googled and eBay'd and all i found was a picture of the diagram but the seller on eBay made it microscopic because he only wanted buyers looking at it.
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Ok so when its warm out my amp turns on just fine... Now that its been cold out my amp doesnt turn on.. No prot. Light. No lights at all.. The HU remote wire is reading less than 1 volt... I hooked up the remote wire to the red wire on the cd player... The amp turned on but it was making weird noises when I turned the car off.... Is the remote wire on the HU goin out?
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welp guys... I was lookin at the batcap 800 for my friends Integra Couple of reasons im considering this over a group 51 Yellow Top it has WAY MORE CCA Its lighter and it costs the same Also, its black, so it doesnt draw attention like a Yellow Top would Only problem i can see is RC, the stocker is 70m The Yellow top is 75m But Batcap doesnt list any sort of RC on the 800
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The xtant is a 3 channel amp 75x2 + 150x1 at 4ohms or 150x2 + 300x1 at 2 ohms. The system is going in a Ford 350 dully. The doors have 6x9's. My original thought was to run ID's 2ohm 6.5 comps in the front and doing nothing in the back doors. Then running a single IDQ 10" or 12". Also thought of running 2 sets of 4ohm comps or coaxials in front and back doors. I haven't decided on a HU yet. Mainly just looking for one more geared for SQ and one that will run an ipod. I have plenty of time on this build and am not commited to anything but the xtant 603x. Any thought's would be appreciated.
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