Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

ok so I installed my singer 250 alt amp and did the big 3 using knu 1/0 ofc. . the volts with nothing on stays at 14.6. I can turn it up full tilt and it ranges from 13.8 - 14.1.. So my question is why do my headlights still dim? It's not on every song either. I can play tech n9ne so dope or TI on purpose and its perfectly fine. I can play something with alot less bass like lil wayne god bless America and it looks like a light show. Am I going to have to break down and install a couple batteries or what? trying to avoid it because im running out of room. oh, im running a 12 inch zcon on a crescendo bc3500

I recently purchased a 12 inch dcon and was wondering if it would benefit from a class A/B amp or if I should just buy a class D. What do you guys think?

Topics is pretty self explanatory, i was considering brands like -Kicker -RF -Hifonics Question is what model i would need and how much RMS power to push this Sub??? all suggestions appreciated thanks

i am currently running 1 ea.pos and neg 1/0 ga wire from the front to the back, would adding just 1 more pos run help or do i need to add the neg also and keep them even? Can you have more pos than neg? Good or bad?

I was all set to buy an Alpine PDX-4.100 for the front stage and a Rockford Fosgate Punch P1000-bd for my sub. Then I read some more about amps and i really like the feaetures on the JL audio stuff, specifically, that their amps put out consistent power at any impedance between 1.5 and 4 ohms and at any voltage between 11 and 14.4 volts. This seems to be worht the extra cash outlay. Also, I am well aware of the quality of JL products. My question: Is JL the only company that makes amps that will put out a consistent power across ohms and with different voltages? In my research, I was unable to find any other amps that did this. Thanks for your help. In case it …

Can any of you help me out. i'm looking at getting a new head unit for my 2001 kia sportage and im not sure what to get. my budget is $300 and i don't mind buying a used deck either as long as its in great shap some scratches are fine as long as there not deep. i'm leaning more to a sq deck with a built in sound processor. i wont be useing the built in amp on the deck since i have a 4 channel amp

Alright guys..i have an Eclipse TI series 12" running in my truck. Right now i have a kenwood kac7202 with 4gauge wiring and a 1F capacitor. The amp doesnt put out enough power..so Should i buy a mono block amp or 2 channel and bridge it? And what amps do you recoment for this sub? my budget is not huge so take it easy on me lol.. Any help it all getting more sound outa this thing will be aprreciated!

Im building a sealed enclosure for my 2 15" Obsidians that's gonna be about 4 Cu Ft. after displacement. I plan on using my Hifonics Zeus 2000 which has a subsonic filter on it which for my ported enclosure I set about 5 Hz under my Box tuning. There's no option to turn the Subsonic filter off so I'm wondering what exactly I should set it at when using it for a sealed enclosure. Sorry if this lacks detail I'm unsure how/what to base setting it off of so I'm not sure what else to include.

Hey guys currently in the process of starting the big three. I've got my battery negative to chassis** done and my alternator positive to battery positive done. I'm still confused on the grounding. 1) Should I go from engine to battery negative and from frame to battery negative? 2) Should I go from engine to frame and then from that same frame spot to the battery negative? 3) Should I go from engine to the same chassis ground that is mentioned above**? And not ground the frame in the upgrade process? Any other suggestions??

Now I was told is that you swap out your factory battery and replace it with a better battery and high out put alternator. Others mention that I should have two batteries one for the car and the other for the stereo and high out put alternator. What should I do? Also are Odyssey batteries good since I have a PCJ 12OO under the hood.

I've been looking around for a good 4 channel amplifier that cost some where around 350 or less that has a small foot print I was hoping to hide it. I have looked at the rockford fosgate pbr 300.4 was wondering if anyone had any experience with these? Or if anyone has had any other amps that are on the smaller side I would like to hear some other options as well. Also I was wondering if anyone could tell me where I could find some info on the little soundigital 250.2 I tried emailing them and messaging a soundigital rep on the smd website and got no replies. Was thinking of maybe getting 2 of those for running a set of comps. could definitely hide those somewhere.

alrighty, im running one jl w7 10 in my truck in jls recommended encloseure (1.5cubes tuned to 32 hz) now my question is, what amp would be best? its 750-1000watts rms. i really wanted to stay all jl in my truck ( no im not a jl nut hugger, i honestly like ther products) im doing jl mids and highs on a 300/4, and i cant decide on a jl 500/1 or a jl 1000/1 for the sub. the videos on youtube of the 500/1 on a single w7 10 doesnt really seem to make it move muchas i know it can and the 1000/1 seems about right but i wanted to get other peoples opinion. so what yall think?

I currently have 2 Kinetik HC2000's in my Tahoe, one under the hood, one under the back seat maybe 15" of power cable away from the amp. Have a db-starter-aternator 220A alternator (which for some reason i cant locate the one i bought from them.. maybe they stopped selling it? lol) It listed it makes its power at like 1200 RPM or something.. should have never bought it.. but thats what I have, I took the voltage meter outside today and looked at both battery's.. Car not started in over 24 hours the battery under the hood was sitting at 12.6 with the vehicle off.. back battery at 12.5. turned the vehicle on which had the rpms at like 1300 or so since it wasnt warmed up.. s…

Will it make a big enough difference in upgrading quality of my midrange amp but not power to be worth it? Will it make a difference in the sound of my? Or is 400 watts 400 watts and switching amps to a higher quality amp of the same power not make a noticable difference?

So I got on it today getting on the interstate, battery light came on, stayed on a few seconds then went off. Put it in neutral, reved it, nothing for a few seconds, stopped reving, light came on a few seconds. Pulled over, put DMM on front battery 14.18. Reved it up, droped to 13.2...stereo off. Checked rear batts, 14.18 running, dropped to 13.5 off, probably would have kept dropping slowly. O'Reilley AGM in front, 2 large O'Reilley AGMs in back 100aH. Iraggi HO alt, the highest at idle lowest peak: 160-180 idle, 200-220 peak.

Hi Guys, Are the Audioque amps ( 2200, 3500 ) good amps or not ? I what thinking maybe someone out there has tested one the website numbers look good.

Ok i need to know which one of these amps are the better one to get (am running a 1 ohm load). I narrowed it down to either the Autotek MM 2000, the Soundstream PCX2000D or the Soundstream TRX2000D. I would like to hear from anyone who heard these amps. And which one of these amps do rated power or is closes to rated power. Any input?

this forum is alot better to get answers from. so i was wondering where sould i put the amp? on teh sub box? or on the carpet under my back seat in the van? does it matter? and should i look to get a CAP?. i have a 130AMp alternator and a Die hard Gold battery, and the amp is a 1200 concept. with 2 gauge wiring and the fuse i dont know what size? either to choose thanks alot i will post pics when i get it all which should be wensday next week.

Got 320 amp mechman now need advice on wiring and what type of lithium battery setup to get, wanting to run about 4-5k RMS total and hold voltage. I've read that I should run a regular lead battery with a lithium, never done a lithium setup before and need advice, all help appreciated really excited about this build!

So I currently have a d2 icon wired to one ohm in a ported box running off at sundown sae 1200 v2. I also have 2 fi ssds d1(s), I built a sealed box for them and wired them in parallel; on the dmm it reads .7 ohms. My vehicle is a buick lesabre which has 130 amp alt. With the icon my electrical is great, the lowest i see is 14.0 (13.8 or so with the a/c on) at full tilt while at a stop light or something. I put the fi's in, a direct swap. I left the amp setting the same. My voltage is horrible, dropping into the 12s at full tilt at highway speeds. So i turned down the gain, pretty much a 1/4 turn back and my voltage is just as bad. My lights flicker horribly and the volta…

I recently purchased a fi bl 15 with the cooling option and was wondering what might be a good amp for it thats under 300 shipped. I was looking into the audioque 1200 but it seems as if not many people have experience with them. All sugestions are welcome. The sub is a dual 2 ohm and going into a ported enclosure around 3.5 cuft(tuning suggestions welcome as well) maybe bigger if i can fit it, theres not too much trunk room in my saturn sc2.

The new SAX 200.4 makes me feel like everything I ever bought has been wasted money! I hope this isnt going to be considered spam. But I just had to SCREAM IT AT THE TOP OF MY LUNGS! Come to me SAX 200.4 . Unbelieveable. Just had to tell someone.

Alpine PXA-H701 w/RUX-C701 vs. AudioControl DQXS w/DDC

So I decided on this unit awhile back, forgoing built in nav for a generally better unit for the money. Really like the interface and the Bluetooth is much more reliable and has much better audio quality than the Kenwood it replaced. I'm having a problem with the unit though. I live in the desert and it's hot like hell here from time to time. On hot days when the truck has been sitting in the sun, the radio will activate the mute until the truck cools down enough from the AC and then it works fine. It's annoying but I can live with that. The problem is yesterday I was driving in the mountains were it most certainly was NOT hot, OAT was between 55 and 42 F with the in…

does it matter how far the fuse is from the battery, as long as it's within 18"? more specifically can it ever be too close to the battery? i installed new wires in my friends car (power and grounds) and its only about 6" from the battery. his fuse keeps blowing so he tried a bigger fuse (still only 80 amps) could that be the problem? i dont know the specifics on what amp and such but its probably 7-900 watts. should he just upgrade to a 150 amp fuse? its 4 AWG.