Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

1997 GMC Sierra 1500 extended cab with 3rd door. When I turn ignition to ACC, doors automatically lock (which they never did before). Inside, door lock button (driver's side and sometime passenger side) does not work, doors must be unlocked manually. When trying to exit, remote does not work inside the cab when I turn truck off. Once I exit and close driver door, the remote works to lock the doors 98% of the time. There are some minor variations, but that seems to be the regular gig. I could use a little help with this one. Thx

When my friend turns up the volume on his head unit, his door speakers cut out. It sounds like a skipping cd. They will cut back on and then right back off. Setup: Infiniti 6.5 in front Cheap dual 6x9s in rear Dual XD 7500

I am looking at get one of the new ROCKFORD FOSGATE T2500-1 bd Amps And I was wondering if anyone knew much about them yet. I did some reading up on it and it seems like a decent amp for the price. Any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks

So I'm starting on my front stage. Finally got a car. It's a 98 camry. I'm trying to find a decent head unit but I'm not trying to spend 300 bucks on one. Any recommendations? I used to have a boss and Jenson but they would freeze when I turned my subs on I'm not putting any subs in the vehicle not until I got a little more money.

Whats the best double din headunit out there with the most features for under $850

I'm thinking about doing a double din conversion on my 02 Silverado and was looking at the new soundstream/ power acoustik ingenix series double din. Do yall think that it would be a decent head unit without spending too much? Or would it be worth doing the conversion for?

Every site I've looked on says you can't put a double din with out modification. So if anyone has pictures of their build and how they did it that would be great. I don't want to jump into doing it and mess something up. I also don't want to have to pay someone to do something i could probably do on my own. Help!

Though I have a ton of old Sony ES head gear in my collection, I have decided to go modern for my wife's ride, a 2003 Aviator. I am pretty much sold on a touch screen double din unit, but I have been out of the "game" for so long that I really dont know what is "quality" anymore. I have been looking hard at the Alpine INA-W900BT.....but it only has 2volt outs??? I plan on keeping the rest of the system stock for now, definitely want to retain steering wheel controls(I know the Alpine requires an additional module). Would eventually like to go with a full blown SQ all active system, so I want to plan for the future. Reliability is must as well.... My question is....w…

I have been using a stock HU with a LO convertor.... and I want to get the most out of my system. Problem is, I have a tahoe and I don't want to kill the functionality of onstar / anything else. What I want is a touch screen radio that is reliable and has good eq adjustments. I also need to plug my Ipod into it..... nav isn't really needed but it would be nice too. I was wondering if any of you would have some suggestions? Thanks

Would going from ~130w to 300w each amongst 4 infinity 1252w's be worth the strain on my car's electrical system? It would only be a difference of 3, maybe 4 decibels. Would a high output alternator be necessary for 1200w, as well as a deep cycle battery? Or should I stick with the setup I have, and not have to dump around $500 into the electrical system of a car I don't plan on keeping? I could always take my battery, so I might get that if it would make a difference on it's own. My lights dim really bad, but even when I step on the brake or roll up a window w/ out the stereo on. My grounds are good, but perhaps my headlight ground is bad? Sorry, I know this ended…

I recently installed a new amp. I had a Sundown saz 1500 on my btl n2 12", and now I run a Sundown saz 3000. The box is 2.1 ft3 net, slot ported to 32 Hz. I am a little ...worried ! I thought the change would be HUGE, but no, it is not ! I think it's louder, but I've never mesured it. Do you think I expected too much from the new amp ? My electrical seems to handle that power fine, I did not expect that !!! Only 2 batteries on a (solid) stock alt. I have a diesel engine.

I noticed Down 4 Sound shop just came out with their own LTO battery. D4S 6 LTO. For 2 of those batteries, it would be rated 6k-10k watts. How would that compare to a 80ah Yinlong LTO bank? Thanks

Ok I don't usually like to ask these type of versus questions but I've narrowed my replacement amp (for my blown RE35.1D) to these last 3(I needed a 1500 watt amp that is <18" in length and these were the only few i could find): -RF BD1500-1, the new model -Sundown SAZ-1500D -USAmps md2d The Sundown is the largest and the hardest to put on my amp rack but it's also the cheapest and from all the opinions I've seen a very nice choice. The USAmps is tempting though the most expensive choice. The RF is just tiny nd woud make installs easier. However, I can only afford it if I purchase it on ebay which means it will have a crappy warranty. Any opinion, positive or negative …

I was looking for some help on configuring a dreadnought. This is what I have: Pioneer HU with subwoofer out Zed RA Zed Dreadnought 2 - SA12's DVC D-2 (wired for 4 ohms) The RA has a mono single RCA output. I believe I need to run a Y - RCA splitter into the Dreadnought. I want to run the Dreadnought bridged. Beyond that I am unsure of what configuration and how to set the Dreadnought.

just thinking, why do we still use head units? we are taking digital signals from streaming/flac/wave files on a phone or usb stick and converting that to analog just to convert it back to digital at the dsp... are there any head units out there that just go digital to a dsp rather than the extra conversion step? i was considering a carputer to just do source and dsp all in one via software and a soundcard up front

I'm planning out a build that is using lots of Rockford parts, the 360 is an old dsp right? has anyone got experience with this guy and is it worth buying these days when you have new tech like JL fix, aerospaces, or helix? the aerospace allows for all pass filters i could use to help fix phasing issues, what other DSP's allow for this?

what can a dual 1 ohm 18''btl fully loaded handel. can it handle a 1ohm stable amp ,0.5 ohm stable amp? i know it works with a 2ohm stable im confused . in other words how can i wire my dual 1 ohm subs to run at 1ohm or lower. and is it safe?

Im getting a Fi Q 15'. I was told to go Dual 2 and get a Hifonics 1600d amp, Recently I have found out that Hifonics suck and Dual 1's are better. What is the best amp sub combo Dual 1 and something else or Dual 2 and Hifonics 1600d? On a side note: Waht exactly os the difference between Dual1 and Dual 2?

can a one wire self exciting alt be wired to the same batt as the stock alt ? or can two stock alts run to the same batt ? or would they have to be two seperate power systems ?

ok so i kknow atleast for my vechile 01 gmc sierra that the dual alt brakcets are pretty simple design.. cant fathom spending 200plus dollar for a piece of cnc cut 3/8 steel. so basically was wondering if anyone has made their own dual alt brackets, who all sell dual alt brakcets?

Was wondering what are some companies that make the dual alternator brackets. I'm looking to pick one up for my '96 Tahoe.

I have been considering running dual alts in my silverado and was wanting to know a few things... 1. I have a Mechman 270 installed right now. Can I install my stock alt and add the mechman back on a dual alt bracket? 2. Can I use the stock alt to run stock electrical and the mechman to run everything else? Or do I have to run them together? 3. How do I wire in the second alt if its possible to run the different sizes?

Being an impulsive person- I done jumped off and ordered a dual alt bracket. Figuring 2 270 amp alts would be plenty for my setup. I was thinking, just run everything parallel, and rock on. But now I am reading that it isn't that simple. My Avalanche's alt is pcm controlled. Can I just tie in another pigtail for the 2nd alt? And have both alts charge both of my batteries? Current Parts- 1 270a Alt (would like to run 2) 2 kinetik 1800's 1 BC 5500 (will prolly be at .5 when said and done, hence wanting 500 amps on tap) 1 S800.4

So ive been on google for almost two days now trying to find a dual alternator bracket setup but no luck. I have a 93 Chevy blazer ... 350 engine .. alternator on left.. Wanna keep my a/c .. Has anyone done this or have piks of a setup like this . I saw some diagrams of a 93 k2500 suburban with a oem dual alternator bracket but no part numbers. Just wanna get my electrical ready all before i get my amp .. im open to any fab ideas too.. any help is appreciated . thanks in advance http://www.compnine.com/largeimg/960228TC01-023.gif[/img bottom left is that braket im talking about and bottom right would be the finished product

When you build a set up that gets beyond just ho alt and batts and you step up to dual,triple etc alternator how is it wired? Do you run the output from second alt to secondary batts? or does it feed into the system another way? Where do you run the ground? Just wanting to know the general outline of this type of install. Yes I used the search function but no complete answer/understanding.