Amplifiers / Head Units / Processors / Electrical

Any opinions/experience with Eclipse's XA series amplifiers??? http://www.eclipse-web.com/amp/xa1000.html

just wondering what everyone thinks about this amp ? thanks all. does it do rated power? is it stappable? are they quaility products?

Is it a good amp? Pros? Cons?

if I could get a brand new one for 215 shipped, is there any reason not to? I know of the SAE1200D and AQ1200D's that are 250 shipped. I have had one of these amps about 4 years ago probably, and really liked it, but are the other 2 choices way better? I know Ive heard alot of bad things about their business pracitces in years past, but just try and think of product ability when you make a choice. not going to buy my subs right now, but figured when the NINe.1 is usually way more expensive I figured Id buy it now while I can get that price.

What is the importance of an amps efficancy? I know being effeciant in anything is good, but how does this affect amplifier performance when comparing apples to apples. If you have one amp that is say 90% effeciant at 4ohms and another amp that is 70% effeciant at 4ohms and are both rated to put out 500 watts at 4ohms at 12.8 volts; what does the effeciancy rating tell me, the consumer, about the amp I am using? Any input would be appreciated.

when someone says there amp is 80% efficient at 2600 watts what exactly does that mean electrical system wise?

Although I'm not worried about buying an amp with enough power (bc I buy quality gear) I'm still unsure how efficient an amp really is. My really old PPI PC 2150 A/B class says in the manual something like 70% efficient which is better than many class d amps now (I read something about the JL 500/1 being about 50% effiencent.) Anyone really know how efficient their amp is or how I can find out without buying one? PS I have a 06 Toyota Highbrid and I'm thinking that the normal 12v system is going to get taxed pretty hard with a moderate system in there. My system will be pair of 6.5's up front (likely XR's or Mpyre's) powered by my PPI PC2150 Single SS RLP 12 in a port…

im in the market for a new amp and im doing some research on different brands. and i want to know what you guys think and also know which brands are more efficient and have cleaner bass?? also what was the formula to determine amp efficiency??

I curious to know how you guys determine how many batteries you need to back up your power. I'm looking at running around 7000-7500 RMS. I've called and emailed around regarding HO alts for my car, the largest alt I've been able to find is around 250amp I've seen ppl talking about ca, cca, and ah, but how do those numbers help you determine what you need. I'm rather new to systems this big, I'm talking more than 1 extra batt in the trunk. Thanks for that help

i want to get a FI Q 15 with BP and want to power it with a Bxi-1206D and then get a pdx100.4 for my speakers. just wondering what i would need to do to run it all and if i am ok with stock alternator??

I have 2 Audioque 2200d amps..My question is what type of electrical would i need? My car has a 160 amp alt,and i have 2 deka g31,would that be good for it? Its gonna be for daily usage..Thanks for any help.

Im finnally done with the Big 3, all the wires connected, test drove the car, and everything.... thanks for the help through it all!!!!!! But now what? Im doing a 15" FI Fully loaded BTL and a Hifonics Bxi2608D amp I wont have it hooked up untill the 25th, whats that next thing i should do? Its a 2000 Hyundai Sonata as far as i know, my options are Better main batt, add a second batt, or new alternator. Id rather not do any, but if i have to id rather only do 1. dont have much money to spend... :-( but untill then ill turn the gain down.. keep the volume down. Thanks

My alt is stock with a crescendo batt and the problem is when it's cold out side it idles at 14.4 volts but when it's warm out side it drops down to 12.9 at idle...what could it be...battery, alt or what.... My electrical so far is crescendo battery logic 31, 2 runs of 0 gauge from alt and big 3 with two runs of 0 gauge to the amp

I need some electrical upgrades for my 98 s10. But I dont want to get carried away. So far all i have is some cheap soundquest 4ga wire ran from front battery to amp. Amp is just a little audiopipe 1500d, but as it is right now my bass knob is a dimmer for any light in my vehicle lol. there is no way im dishing out the money for a HO alt on this thing. I have room in the back for 1 battery. Curious as to how small of a battery I can get away with. Going kinetik because its what I like. Honestly i would like to add a little HC800 or something and call it a day, but I dont know. My first step will be to upgrade my wires along with the big 3. question there is do you guys …

I read quite a few questions regarding electrical supply and demand so I decided to post this link to help figure out any electrical dilemma you may be having. http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp

I think that I might run into some electrical problems in my new system that I'm currently putting together. I want to try and avoid it if I can to save money. I drive a 2000 Jetta VR6, it has a 120a stock alternator and this is my current battery My head unit is a Kenwood KDC-248u 4- Memphis PR 6.5's components in the doors My amp is an AQ1200d and this is where my first question comes in. I am looking at either getting 1 12 Icon, 1 15 Icon, or 1 12 Xcon. My question is should I play it safe and run them at 2ohms using ~870 watts or 1ohm using ~1200 watts. How much of a difference will there be in the sound and will it even avoid any electrical problems. My next questio…

Hi I think i am going to get one 15" BTL because if i got 2 of them then i would need a new alternator, but can anyone tell me if i am going to need a larger alternator with just one 15" BTL along with a ton of power cells, or could i fly with just power cells to back it up. Also do you need a new receiver or can i be fine with a receiver and a line-out converter??

So I currently have a d2 icon wired to one ohm in a ported box running off at sundown sae 1200 v2. I also have 2 fi ssds d1(s), I built a sealed box for them and wired them in parallel; on the dmm it reads .7 ohms. My vehicle is a buick lesabre which has 130 amp alt. With the icon my electrical is great, the lowest i see is 14.0 (13.8 or so with the a/c on) at full tilt while at a stop light or something. I put the fi's in, a direct swap. I left the amp setting the same. My voltage is horrible, dropping into the 12s at full tilt at highway speeds. So i turned down the gain, pretty much a 1/4 turn back and my voltage is just as bad. My lights flicker horribly and the volta…

how big of an alternator's ? how many batteries , etc etc , would i need to run 2 Saz-3500d's 'safely' on my truck? they would be @ 1 ohm , just for daily..

ok well ive been banned at caraudio.com til the 16th, but that site is gay anyways cuase half the people over there are arsehos and flame just cuase they dont like my speakers, and you guys seem to answer my questions faster and without 20 pages of spam, so im gonna just questions over here from now on lol. anyways, my 4 ma hk4000d's should be here soon, and im wondering what/how many batts, etc i need. i want to do 16v, but im not positive yet. each amp will be ran @ 2 ohm, and its for music, i will *rarely* burp them. i want these amps to last and not break lol. also, does anyone know if the little hk 2 ch amps can be run on 16v on music or not? VJ

Ok guys just wondering what you would recommend me I can do on my current electrical. Currently I have an 18 Fi Bl d2 running with a sundown Saz-1500d. My electical consists of the big three being done in 1/0 gauge and an optima yellow top up front with around 1000 ca and a newer Ford 700ca battery in back. I am just looking for a setup to get lower and louder than the BL can. The Bl is in a 7.3ish cu ft book tuned at like 31-32 hz. Currently my headlights lights have almost no dimming whatsoever so I know I have a decent electrical. My budgets right around 800. So I'm looking into selling the BL on here and getting the BTL. I'd probably end up building a new box for the …

I have a AQ2200.1D amp at 1 ohm with my 12" ascendant mayhem, it pounds off stock battery bit I hit the clipping light at around 20 on my alpine cde-hd137bt. I do have a 270 amp HO alt and big three and my lights dim sometimes but I'm wondering what all batteries do I all need to make it bump harder, louder and deeper, and make my stiff rear view mirror fall off?

I'm starting a new build with tax returns and was wondering what kind of electrical upgrades I'll be needing. Q1-4500 and a Q4-90. Subs will be (2) HDC4 12s (if I can fit a 5cu ft box in my Cavalier and have room for the batteries) or (2) HDC3 10s. Was thinking HO alt obviously, I think 270amp is the biggest I've seen for my car. 2 runs of power and ground, big 3 obviously and 3 batteries in the back. Will that be enough?

Looking to buy a saz 2500 and just seeing what you guys think i should do about electrical to power the amp. It'll be pushing a sp4 reconed by psi audio, they told me that it will be 2500 rms or better. ill be running the amp at .5 ohm. For electrical so far i have the big 3, a 350 amp alternator by bnr parts (junk by the way) looking for a 270 amp alt by mechman and a xs power d3400 under the hood with all 1/0 gauge. Just trying to get some help with what i should upgrade to run .5 ohms daily. looking to get dual toolmarker 1/0 for the power and ground for 2 runs of 1/0 wire. should i be looking at another battery? and what if i got just a smaller battery and put the 340…

ok so i have a 76 caprice i need to know what i need to do to properly power 1 of the saz-1500's im gettn stock alt 63amps brand new 4ga big 3 but upgrading to 1/0 when i get the amp $50 battery from autozone im looking for a decently priced big battery so what will i need to power this thing right